A blank can be found locally, such as in a forest or a hedgerow. Hazel, birch, cherry, blackthorn, ash, oak, elder, and holly are all good woods for walking sticks. Perhaps blackthorn (Prunus spinosa, or “sloe”) is the best option.
These woods also make great walking stick handles, whether carved into shape on a lathe or in the shape of root knobs or knots. It’s entirely up to you the material you use for your handle.
Ideally, a blank should be as straight as possible. Finding a straight stick to begin with is part of the skill of making a walking stick. It is feasible to artificially straighten blanks (see video below), but starting with a straight blank makes life much easier.
How do you dry wood for walking sticks?
1. Make a decision. Select a branch or stem portion that is long enough.
When your arm is bent, measure from the ground to your outstretched hand as a gauge. Measure with your forearm horizontal or parallel to the ground and your upper arm pointing down. Then add a few inches more.
If you’re hiking downhill, keep in mind that you’ll need more stick length. Most people will want to hold the pole with their forearm lifted higher than parallel to the ground, so you’ll need some extra stick length regardless.
2. Peel away the bark. This can be accomplished through whittling.
In the spring, the bark can easily peel away. Use delicate strokes while holding the blade at a modest slant. Take it easy on the hacking since the deeper you go into the wood, the more sanding you’ll have to do to get a clean finish. It’s simple to remove wet, fresh bark. It appears that removing dry bark is more difficult. In fact, I find removing dry bark to be a dreadful experience. The water that lingers on wet wood and bark lubricates it naturally before drying. Utilize it to your benefit.
3. Allow the wood to dry. Place the stick with the bark removed in a room or shop with a temperature of 55 to 70 degrees for 4 to 7 days. Don’t speed the drying process by exposing the wood to direct sunlight. Cracking will be reduced if the drying process is slowed down. Some people apply a coating to the ends of wood to slow drying and decrease cracking, but this is ineffective if the bark is removed. If a particular species of wood is prone to cracking, try drying another piece at a lower temperature. You might also want to save a few inches or a foot of length and trim it afterwards.
4. Include a suggestion. Add a protective sleeve to the end and shape it. A copper plumbing sleeve, which is typically used to join two pieces of copper tubing, is my favorite tip. This tip keeps the hiking stick’s end from splitting. If the sleeve is damaged, it can be replaced with a new one. A few screws can be used to secure the copper tip. I use hot glue on occasion.
After sanding, you might also apply the tip. I usually start with the tip and sand it afterwards.
5. Knots that are smooth. Using a knife to smooth knots or stubs where twigs were can be inconvenient at times. For polishing wood like this, I used one grinding wheel on my bench grinder. A flat wood rasp might also work. Alternatively, whittle what you can and sand it.
6. Sanding is required. Start with coarse grits and work your way down to fine grits, as is customary. The soft wood of western red cedar was ideal for sanding because it was so easy to work with. It’s difficult to find a single piece from that species. Arborvitae, on the other hand, belongs to the same genus and can produce a lot of good wood. It’s a well-liked hedge.
7. Make sure the wood is clean. Remove the sawdust by wiping it away or blowing it away. Use a dry rag instead of a damp rag. The water will increase the grain and roughen up the finish.
Hang it up. To finish, twist a small hook into the tip of the walking stick and hang it upside down.
9. Bring it to a close. Linseed oil is preferred by some, but I found it to be excellent for wood tool handles. I prefer spray cans of full gloss polyurethane for walking sticks. Usually, four coatings are sufficient. Using 200 to 400 grit sandpaper, lightly sand between each coat.
10. You’re done. After removing the hook, the stick should be ready to use. After sanding and before finishing certain hiking sticks, I wood burn the genus and species names, as well as sign and date them.
A leather strap from a craft store could be a beautiful accent if you drill a hole where it’s needed.
You now have a walking stick that will last you for many years. You can pass it down to the next generation if you touch up the finish every year or two. These could live for centuries if handled properly. If the stick is well-made, you might choose to sign your name for sentimental reasons.
A handful of my experiments turned out to be fantastic interior decorations. There were a few that were excessively heavy. Others might have been too brief. Experiments were rarely a waste of time. After sanding, Japanese maple was one of the most interesting-looking timbers, but it was far too heavy to hike with. It, like a few others, adorned a home’s corner.
Can you make a walking stick from green wood?
When making your own walking sticks, you have to decide whether to use dry or green wood. Green wood produces stronger, more adaptable end items, but you must let it cure completely before staining or sealing it. Using freshly cut wood for a walking stick requires a significant amount of time since the wood must be dried slowly to avoid warping or breaking.
Height
When your arm is down by your side and your forearm is extended out in front of you at 90 degrees to your body, walking poles should reach the top of your palm. The top of the handle should be at waist or hip level, and your elbow should be at a 90-degree angle.
If your legs are unusually long for your height, the height measured from the tip of your upturned thumb may be more comfortable and better matched to the length of your stride. Those with shorter legs may prefer to utilize the height from their palm’s bottom.
How do I make my walking stick smoother?
Sure, carrying a hiking stick gives me the appearance of a tough mountain guy, but it also serves a practical purpose. It helps me chew up big kilometers by lessening the load on my knees and shoulders, and it also allows me to tiptoe across loose rocks, slippery logs, and rushing streams without wobbling. Here’s how to make your own customized team.
- Find a robust, straight, and preferably blemish-free felled branch in your local forest (no obvious cracks or big knotholes). The stick should be 1 to 2 inches in diameter and reach your armpit.
- Remove twigs with a pocketknife and, if desired, remove the bark. Sharp points or level knobs can be rounded off with a plane or file. To determine out where your grasp will be, hold the stick as if you were hiking (your elbow should create a straight angle) and measure 2 to 3 inches below the top. Cut shallow grooves for your fingertips, similar to those seen on a steering wheel, to personalize the grip. Drill a 1/4-inch hole for a wrist loop just above the grip region. Using coarse, then fine sandpaper, smooth the stick’s surface. Wipe the stick with a rag dipped in paint thinner to remove any remaining sawdust.
- Carvings, wood burnings, paintings, symbols, or bear bells can all be used to embellish the stick. If the wood is still green, cure it for at least 2 weeks in a warm, dry location, rotating it frequently to avoid bowing.
- To give the stick a darker, richer shade, apply two layers of wood stain, leaving each coat to cure overnight between coats. Then, to protect the wood and prevent rot, add three coats of clear urethane varnish. Allow each coat of varnish to dry for at least 24 hours. After each coat, lightly sand the stick with extremely fine sandpaper or steel wool.
- Through the hole, thread a 2-foot piece of rawhide lace or thick rope. Adjust the loop’s length to fit your wrist, then tie the ends in a strong knot to secure it. Trim the ends as needed. Because wood is such a volatile creature, keep in mind that hiking sticks are as much born as they are manufactured.
How long do sticks take to dry out?
You can dry them in the sun, but if it rains, you’ll want to shift them. Drying time is determined by the size and moisture content of your twigs. Thin twigs may take a week or two to dry. It could take up to two months for larger twigs with higher moisture content.
How do you keep green wood from checking?
At the open ends of logs, sealing material will keep the wood from coming into direct contact with air moisture. Dryness and shrinkage of wood will be reduced as a result of this.
Anchorseal is the best commercial sealer for greenwood. This sealer comes in a variety of types that are suitable for both fresh and softwood, log cookies, and woodturning blanks. It’s a cross between wax and plant-based polymers.
Remove all dust and dirt from the wood’s surface. Apply the sealer to your wood with a brush or a sprayer.