Which Wisteria Is Best

Deciduous climbers include wisterias. Some types and cultivars reward us first with gorgeous golden-yellow leaf before dropping, despite the fact that they lose their leaves in the fall. The majority of Wisteria floribunda exhibit lovely fall colors, but ‘Violacea Plena’ is by far the prettiest with its butter-yellow leaf.

Other cultivars like “Rosea,” “Kuchi-Beni,” “Lawrence,” “Macrobothrys,” or “Royal Purple” are also exhibiting stunning fall hues.

Japanese or Chinese wisteria—which is superior?

One of the most well-known and eye-catching flowering garden plants, wisteria lends a magnificent impact to any garden or landscape. It puts on quite a show in the late spring, producing spectacular racemes (hanging clusters) of fragrant blue-violet blooms. Any garden can look exotic and enchanted thanks to wisteria blossoms.

Wisteria is a member of the Fabaceae or Pea family (formerly Leguminoseae). Ten species of deciduous climbing vines make up the genus, two of which are indigenous to the southern United States and the others to eastern Asia.

The wisteria plant is vibrant, adaptable, quick-growing, durable, and low-maintenance. It can be raised as a shrub, a tree, or a vine. Wisteria plants grow quickly and twine; they require lots of space and a sturdy structure to climb on. It may be grown on a wooden pergola, arbor, trellis, or entrance. Wisteria can reach heights of 40 to 75 feet. When flowering and the early stages of growth are occurring, wisteria plants need full sun, good drainage, and consistent moisture. In order to ensure spring blooms and compact growth, it does require seasonal pruning.

In the spring, wisteria blooms stunning cascading petals that last 4 to 5 weeks and fill the air with their fragrant fragrance. After planting, flowers may start to bloom after 4 years, but it may also take up to 15 years. The blossoms, which resemble bunches of grapes hanging from the wisteria shrub, are pendulous clusters of fragrant, delicate petals. Each Wisteria flower is small and fragrant, resembling a pea. Violet, purple, bluish-purple, pink, blue, and white are the colors of wisteria blooms.

Wisteria commonly grows in two species in backyard gardens:

  • Floribunda Wisteria (the Japanese one)
  • Sinensis Wisteria (the Chinese one)

Large 12 to 18 inch bloom clusters can be found on Japanese wisteria. Usually, the flowering occurs as the leaves are growing. White, pink, blue, and violet Japanese Wisteria blooms are incredibly fragrant.

Chinese wisteria blooms prior to turning into leaves. Chinese Wisteria blooms in white, violet, lilac-blue, and blue flower clusters that are 6 to 9 inches long and have a light pleasant aroma. After planting, Chinese Wisteria typically blooms four years later.

The primary distinction between Japanese and Chinese wisteria is that the former twines around the host plant in a clockwise direction, while the latter twines in a counterclockwise direction. Additionally, compared to Chinese Wisteria flowers, Japanese Wisteria flowers are more pronounced and fragrant.

Which wisteria has the strongest scent?

A beautiful addition to any garden is wisteria. We have the great fortune of taking care of some of central London’s finest. Every year, in January and February, we prune vigorously, reducing the number of flowering spurs to two or three and removing any dead wood. The best time of year to add support cables, if necessary, is now.

All wisteria kinds exude scents, however the scents can range from delicate to overpowering. The Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Murasaki Kapitan’ and Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Shiro Kapitan’ cultivars have the sweetest scents.

Two of my favorites are the Japanese wisterias Wisteria floribunda ‘Kuchi Beni’, known for its lovely springtime scent. It boasts incredible long, drooping clusters of 45 cm long pale mauve-pink flowers.

Also Japanese, Wisteria floribunda ‘Royal purple’ is prized for its late spring blooms of rich purple, fragrant pea-like petals. It produces lovely, bean-like pods after flowering, which mature in the late summer and persist through the winter.

The best wisteria to climb is which one?

The vigorous climber Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Murasaki-Kapitan’ has a strong aroma and blooms early in the season. It creates attractive hanging sprays that can reach 8 inches (20 cm) in length and contain 35 to 47 pea-like blue-violet blooms. They make a striking flower display when they bloom in late spring or early summer. The gorgeous, big, velvety, bean-like pods that follow the blossoms ripen in the late summer and may last into the winter. The exotic-looking, dense foliage with fresh green, pinnate leaves that turns mellow golden in the fall is very beautiful.

Which wisteria expands quickly?

Wisteria types from Japan and China grow more quickly than those from America. The proper circumstances are necessary for any plant to thrive, so picking the appropriate Wisteria for your environment is crucial. However, Chinese Wisteria (Wisteria Sinensis) grows the fastest in all other respects.

What distinguishes Chinese wisteria from American wisteria?

Wisteria blooms over roads and arbors in the spring, reminding me that sure, spring always keeps its promise and, wow, this stuff is taking over the globe! Although some varieties of wisteria are stunning, they are invasive plants and should be grown with caution (if at all).

The native American species is a perfect substitute if you adore the rich splendor of wisteria because it provides you all the glory without nearly as much trouble.

Chinese and Japanese Wisteria

Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria floribunda, respectively known as Chinese and Japanese wisterias, are magnificent spring-blooming vines with gracefully twisted trunks and an absolutely gorgeous display of pendulous lavender or pink blooms in the spring. These are the varieties of wisteria that grow wild along highways and drape their foot-long flowers from tall tree branches.

They are very stunning. However, when these non-native vines are accidentally introduced into American forests (often by well-intentioned gardeners), they quickly proliferate and start the troublesome work of obstructing light and water, growing thickets, impeding the growth of new saplings, and even bringing down large trees with their heavy, woody stems.

Despite being invasive species, Chinese and Japanese wisterias are still sellable, and it can be tempting to take a cutting or sprout from a naturalized vine. But before putting wisteria into your yard, you might want to consider how diligently you intend to train and control it.

American Wisteria Is the Native Choice

Consider growing the less invasive American wisteria as an alternative (Wisteria frutescens). This gorgeous vine, which is native to eastern North America, is just as magnificent despite having slightly smaller blooms that occasionally repeat in the fall. It is significantly less intrusive and much less likely to spiral out of control than its Asian counterparts.

The blossoms are the most straightforward way to recognize American wisteria. The flowers of American wisteria are shorter, rounder, and more compact than those of Asian species, which have elongated blossoms with loose, dripping petals (rather pinecone shaped). Despite having less fragrant blossoms than Asian wisteria, American wisteria still has stunning flowers! The smooth seed pods of American wisteria can also be distinguished from the hairy seed pots of Chinese and Japanese varieties.

Don’t be deceived when planting American wisteria by the claim that it is “non-invasive”

The tenacious American wisteria swiftly covers arbors and reaches impressive heights in the trees. In comparison to Asian wisteria, it also grows more quickly and is more resistant to cold. Native to marshes in the southeast, American wisteria thrives in some sunlight.

Wisteria Fact

Did you know that the wisteria vines of various varieties entangle in various directions? Chinese wisteria twines counterclockwise, while American and Japanese species climb clockwise.

How to Grow American Wisteria

When cultivating American wisteria in your yard, remember to:

  • Water: Wisteria might require a little irrigation during dry seasons because it is a native of marshes.
  • Use a trellis: Instead of letting wisteria climb trees, train it to a trellis or arbor to keep it under control.
  • Gently Tie: Since wisterias twine to climb (rather than cling), it may be necessary to gently tie them to the trellis until they round it.
  • Keep Pruning: If a vine is not taken care of, it could grow out of control. Maintain wisteria in its intended location and cut back any sprouts or tendrils that stray onto nearby bushes or trees.

Which wisteria has the longest flowering period?

The size of Wisteria racemes (or clusters) vary depending on the species, variation, and growth environment. Depending on the weather and the growth environment, the same variety may produce longer or shorter clusters. Moreover, as the plant develops and gets firmly rooted, the flower clusters will lengthen.

  • Since Wisteria frutescens has the shortest clusters, measuring only 2 to 5 inches (5-7 cm), it cannot be considered a magnificent ornamental vine.
  • The longest are those of Wisteria floribunda, some of which variants have 36-inch-long clusters (90 cm). The majority of floribunda varieties are 12 to 14 inches long (30-35 cm).
  • Wisterias with lengthy racemes will produce the greatest results if you want to cover a pergola. The longest racemes of any species, those of wisteria floribunda, make for a striking display on garden structures like pergolas where the racemes can hang freely and unhindered by branches or foliage.
  • While most wisterias might be successfully grown in this way if you wanted to cover a wall, short-racemed wisterias would work better. The species best suited for walls is Wisteria sinensis, whose shortish racemes are attractively presented.

Does blue Moon wisteria smell good?

Once established, ‘Blue Moon’ can produce stunning, foot-long racemes of fragrant, pea-like lavender-blue flowers up to three times in a growing season.

What season is ideal for wisteria planting?

Wisterias thrive in full light, fertile soil, and both. Of the ten species, three are grown the most frequently: Wisteria brachybotrys, Wisteria sinensis, and Wisteria floribunda, which are native to China, Japan, and the eastern United States (silky wisteria). All three species have significant growth rates and can extend out to a maximum of 20 meters (66 feet) against a wall or around 10 meters (33 feet) in trees. Wisteria can also be trained to grow as a free-standing standard in a big container or border.

Wisterias for pergolas and arches

The Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) is best exhibited hanging down from a garden structure like a pergola or arch since it has the longest flower sprays (or racemes) of all the species. They entwine in a clockwise motion while simultaneously bearing blooms and leaves. Lilac blue blooms and racemes as long as 1.2 meters (4 feet) are produced by Wisteria floribunda f. multijuga AGM in the early summer.

Wisterias for walls

Wisteria sinensis, often known as Chinese wisteria, blooms in the springtime before the leaves do. For example, Wisteria sinensis ‘Amethyst’ AGM has violet blue flowers with a reddish flush produced in dense racemes to 30cm (1ft) long in late spring or early summer. They twine anticlockwise and the racemes are shorter so they are best displayed against a wall.

Silky wisteria (Wisteria brachybotrys), which can be grown against walls or on pergolas, has downy leaves and short racemes of 10-15cm (4-6in). White flowers with center yellow markings, a strong perfume, and 10-15 cm tall sprays of wisteria brachybotrys f. albiflora ‘Shiro-kapitan’ AGM bloom in the spring and early summer.

If you want to cultivate a wisteria in a big container

It is best to use Wisteria fructens ‘Amethyst Falls’ because of its compact habit and dense clusters of lilac-blue flowers.

Always choose a wisteria that has been grown from cuttings or by grafting when purchasing one because seed-raised wisterias flower less consistently and take longer to bloom. The graft union should be seen as a swelling close to the stem’s base. Unlike species, named cultivars are virtually always grafted. Purchase your wisteria in flower or go with a specific cultivar to avoid disappointment.

Wisterias are offered for sale as container-grown plants at garden centers and online, and you can use the RHS Find a Plant tool to locate particular cultivars.

Wisteria should ideally be planted between October and April. Wisterias grown in containers can be planted at any time of the year, but fall and winter are the easiest times to maintain. Give them healthy, well-drained soil to plant in.

Wisterias bloom best in full sun, so pick a wall or pergola that faces south or west. Although blossoming will be diminished, they will still grow in light shade.

Wisterias are robust climbers that can grow to a height and width of more than 10 meters (33 feet). You’ll need to give support in the form of wires, trellises, or outside buildings like pergolas or arches against a wall. Wisteria can also be grown up a support or taught up a tree to create a standard. A wisteria can be grown in a border or container by being trained into a standard, which reduces its vigor.

If you want to grow your wisteria in a container, you’ll need a sizable one that is at least 45 cm (18 in) in diameter and is filled with potting soil with a loam basis, like John Innes No. 3.

Feeding

Use Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone on your wisteria in the spring at the suggested rate listed on the packet. Additionally, apply sulphate of potash at a rate of 20g per sq m (1/2 oz per sq yard) on sandy soils (which have low potassium levels). Fertilizers for flowering shrubs or roses are another option.

Feed wisteria in containers using Miracle-Gro, Phostrogen, or another comparable flowering plant food. A different option is to add controlled-release fertilizer to the compost.

Although wisteria has a reputation for being challenging to prune, this is untrue. Once you’ve made it a habit to prune your wisteria twice a year, you should be rewarded with a pleasing flower show.

When you prune regularly, you reduce the excessive, whippy growth from July and August to five to six leaves, or roughly 30 cm (1ft). This increases the possibility of blossom buds budding and permits the wood to ripen. Then, in February, trim these shoots even more to two or three buds, or around 10 cm (4 in), to tidy up the plant before the growing season starts and make it possible to observe the new flowers.

When your juvenile wisteria has completely covered a wall or other garden structure, start the routine pruning to promote flowering.

Small gardens benefit greatly from the training of wisteria as a free-standing standard in a border or container.

Wisteria can be trained to ascend into a tiny tree’s canopy, however doing so could eventually harm the tree. Pruning will be challenging if the plant develops into a huge tree, and a dense leaf canopy will affect flowering.

Increase your wisteria stocks by layering in the summer, taking softwood cuttings in the spring to mid-summer, or taking hardwood cuttings in the winter since seed-raised wisteria can take up to 20 years to flower.

Wisteria is typically propagated via grafting in professional nurseries, however layering is the simplest and most dependable technique for home gardeners.

Established wisteria can produce hanging, bean-like seedpods after a lengthy summer. While wisteria plants grown from seeds are typically of inferior quality, you might want to try growing wisteria yourself.

  • After the leaves have fallen, gather the seedpods and let them ripen in an open tray.
  • When the seed is ready, twist open the pod and sow it 2 cm (3/4 in) deep in seed compost.
  • Before planting if the seed is dry, soak it for 24 hours.

See our commonly asked questions page for a summary of wisteria issues.

Poor flowering

Poor flowering is the most frequent issue for backyard gardeners, and it can be brought on by a variety of factors, such as:

  • Young plants can take up to 20 years to flower, so acquire a plant that is already in bloom or go with a certain cultivar because they are typically grafted to avoid disappointment.
  • Examine your pruning methods and timing because early and midsummer trimming will prevent the growth of flowers the next year.
  • Wisteria flowers best in broad light; deep shadow produces few, if any, flowers.
  • Water your wisteria during periods of drought from July to September because a lack of water during this time will influence the development of flower buds the next year.
  • Flower buds may drop before opening as a result of spring frosts, which can harm or deform growing flowers.
  • Applying sulphate of potash in the spring will encourage bloom production for the next year in soils that may lack potassium.
  • The damage caused by pigeons or mice can be identified by torn petals or distinctive teeth marks.

Other problems

A mature, seemingly robust wisteria will occasionally pass away and be replaced by a new, healthy branch emerging from the ground. Failure of the wisteria graft may be the reason of this.

Wisteria is sensitive to both of the fungi that cause phytophthora root rot and honey fungus, which are less frequent causes of failure.

Unusual brown blotches and marks on the leaves, typically with a yellow edge, may be a sign that a fungus has infected them. Viruses can also harm wisteria and powdery mildew.

Infestations of scale and, less frequently, wisteria scale can affect wisterias.

While we hope this information may be useful to you, we always advise reading the labels on your plants that provide care instructions.