Where To Buy Kentucky Wisteria

This vine works well on big, strong, freestanding arbors, pergolas, posts, trellises, fences, or terrace walls. It works best when it is grown close to or above patios where the flowers can be appreciated when in bloom.

What is the growth rate of Kentucky wisteria?

It is well known that wisteria take a very long time to bloom. For two to three years after planting, don’t anticipate blossoms. Some readers swear by the following technique to encourage blooming:

To cut into part of the roots, take a shovel and drive it 8 to 10 inches into the ground approximately a foot and a half away from the main trunk of the wisteria.
Approximately half of the roots should be damaged for the shrub to be shocked into reproduction (flowering).
Don’t worry—impossible it’s to harm this unchecked, unwieldy, frequently invasive shrub!
The flowers of wisteria can also be impacted by chilly winter temperatures.

Native Wisteria

Consider growing a wisteria species that is indigenous to North America if you live there, such as:

Wisteria frutescens, also known as American wisteria, thrives in zones 5 through 9. Its original states span from Virginia to Texas, the southeast to Florida, and up into New York, Iowa, and Michigan in the north. The vine is 25 to 30 feet long, has glossy, dark-green leaves, and after the plant has begun to leaf out, develops huge, drooping clusters of lilac or purple-blue flowers. Only new wood will display the blossoms. Notably, the blossoms are typically less aromatic than those of Asian wisterias.
In zones 4 to 9, Kentucky wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya) flourishes. Similar to American wisteria, this late-bloomer is a native of the Southeast of the United States (it is sometimes considered a variety or subspecies of American wisteria). The Kentucky wisteria is the quickest to blossom, bearing faintly fragrant bluish-purple flowers after only two to three years of growth.
A gorgeous, silvery-blue cultivar of the native Kentucky wisteria called “Blue Moon” is particularly hardy. In late spring or early summer, it blooms. It can go as chilly as -40F. (-40C).

Non-Native Wisteria

Despite the fact that they are frequently marketed at nurseries and garden centers, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) are non-native, invasive species, hence we do not suggest them for North American gardens. They can reach lengths of 30 to 60 feet and are hardy in Zones 5 to 9. (and beyond in the Southern U.S.). Japanese wisteria comes in two popular kinds, including:
Popular plant known as “Honbeni” displays clusters of pink flowers in the late spring.
“Alba” (also known as “Shiro Noda”) yields beautiful clusters of snow-white flowers in the late spring.

Are Wisteria Toxic to Pets and Humans?

Yes, the wisteria plant contains lectin and wisterin, which are poisonous to people, animals, and even pets. If taken in significant quantities, these poisons can result in anything from nausea and diarrhea to death.

If pets or young children frequent the area, it is a good idea to remove the seedpods after the plant has flowered because the material is particularly concentrated in the seeds and seedpods. Unaware children or animals won’t think twice about eating as many seedpods as they can because they are not unpleasant to taste or have an instant effect. In case of ingestion, contact your neighborhood poison control center.

Which month is ideal for wisteria planting?

The best seasons to plant wisteria are spring or fall, and you should put it in full sunlight to ensure that you get to view its lovely blossoms. A wet, well-draining soil is ideal for wisteria.

Wisteria from Blue Moon Kentucky—is it invasive?

Best cultivated in full sun, somewhat fertile, humusy, well-drained soils with a medium moisture content. Best flowering need full sun. can be a little intrusive (rampant growth plus rooting surface runners). This vine needs room to spread out and a strong foundation to develop on.

What variety of wisteria should I buy?

As long as you give the vine something to climb on, you could use nearly any variety of wisteria to successfully cover a wall in your house. However, a cultivar with shorter racemes—the term for the flower bunches—rather than extremely long, dangling blossoms would have the nicest appearance.

The finest option for a house’s walls is Wisteria sinensis. Usually, their racemes are no larger than 12 inches. The cultivar “Jako” features lovely, fragrant white flowers. Choose ‘Prolific,’ which will continue to bloom throughout the summer, if you want the classic purple blossoms.

However, it’s always a good idea to weigh native against invasive types while picking Wisteria for your home. Because wisteria is such an aggressive and invasive vine, some places don’t allow certain varieties.

Which wisteria has the finest scent?

A beautiful addition to any garden is wisteria. We have the great fortune of taking care of some of central London’s finest. Every year, in January and February, we prune vigorously, reducing the number of flowering spurs to two or three and removing any dead wood. The best time of year to add support cables, if necessary, is now.

All wisteria kinds exude scents, however the scents can range from delicate to overpowering. The Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Murasaki Kapitan’ and Wisteria brachybotrys ‘Shiro Kapitan’ cultivars have the sweetest scents.

Two of my favorites are the Japanese wisterias Wisteria floribunda ‘Kuchi Beni’, known for its lovely springtime aroma. It boasts incredible long, drooping clusters of 45 cm long pale mauve-pink flowers.

Also Japanese, Wisteria floribunda ‘Royal purple’ is prized for its late spring blooms of rich purple, fragrant pea-like petals. It produces lovely, bean-like pods after flowering, which mature in the late summer and persist through the winter.

What scent does Kentucky wisteria have?

The most resilient wisteria! Once established, it consistently blooms up to three times over a growing season, giving rise to stunning, foot-long racemes of fragrant, pea-like, lavender-blue flowers. shade arbors and buildings are covered. Ideal for arcing around a wall’s top or over entrances and entries.

Where shouldn’t wisteria be grown?

In order to support the massive vine, the wisteria’s root system extends out widely and dives deep. Do wisteria roots exhibit aggression? Yes, wisteria’s root system is highly aggressive. Avoid planting wisteria next to walls or walkways because of its extensive and strong root system. These are easily harmed by a wisteria’s root system.

Experts advise inserting a corrugated panel about 6 feet (1.8 m) long and several feet (1 m) broad beside the plant to redirect the roots if you find a wisteria close to a building or pathway.

Can wisteria grow on a fence?

Wisteria sinensis or W. floribunda are the two species that we grow the most frequently. The former Chinese wisteria bears its flowers prior to the development of its leaves. The blossoms of the Japanese wisteria floribunda develop simultaneously with its foliage. These details have a significant impact on the species you should choose to raise. W. sinensis thrives on vertical surfaces (house walls, fences, trellises), where its bare blossoms will be best seen. It is preferable for W. floribunda to grow up and over strong arches, arbours, and pergolas. As a result, the longer racemes (bunches of flowers) can hang down and be completely free of the leaves.

How to plant wisteria

Wisterias grow best in soil that is fertile but well-drained. Even though they perform best in direct sunlight, they can tolerate little shade. They can be grown in big containers. To prevent a “rain shadow,” make sure plants are 30–40 cm away from the base when growing up a vertical surface (the dry, shaded area closest to the base of walls and fences). Back the shoot up toward the ground.

Wisteria can be grown into a free-standing specimen; more on that later.

Training wisteria as a climber

When preparing Wisteria to climb, there are only four guidelines to remember:

In July or August, reduce the whippy shoots from the current year to just five or six leaves. This improves bud formation and speeds up wood ripening by increasing air movement and light penetration through the leaf.
In January or February, perform a second cut, only removing two or three buds.
Strong, taut training wires positioned horizontally along a wall or fence are used to train desired shoots. Use soft twine to secure shoots to these wires.
If it’s necessary to remove old, diseased, or unwanted shoots, wisteria will react nicely to hard pruning. However, be cautious since shoots entwine around one another; you don’t want to unintentionally harm good, productive growth.

Training wisteria as a free-standing specimen

In your garden, grow a few free-standing wisterias for something a little different.

Plant a wisteria with a single stem next to a reliable support (1.5m or more). The single stem should be tied in and let to extend all the way to the support’s top.
In the first spring after it has reached the peak, cut off the single stem tip.
Trim the upper side shoots to 15 to 30 cm in length and remove the lower side shoots. The plant now has a sturdy “head” from which to grow.
August is the time to prune August shoots back to seven leaves once the head has gotten sufficiently woody.
To keep your shape, trim any old, undesirable head shoots in the winter.
To reveal flower racemes, trim March shoots back to 2.5 cm of their bases.

How long does a wisteria take to flower?

Wisterias thrive in full light, fertile soil, and both. Of the 10 species, three are grown the most frequently: Wisteria brachybotrys, Wisteria sinensis, and Wisteria floribunda, which are native to China, Japan, and the eastern United States (silky wisteria). All three species have significant growth rates and can extend out to a maximum of 20 meters (66 feet) against a wall or around 10 meters (33 feet) in trees. Wisteria can also be trained to grow as a free-standing standard in a big container or border.

Wisterias for pergolas and arches

The Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) is best exhibited hanging down from a garden structure like a pergola or arch since it has the longest flower sprays (or racemes) of all the species. They entwine in a clockwise motion while simultaneously bearing blooms and leaves. Lilac blue blooms and racemes as long as 1.2 meters (4 feet) are produced by Wisteria floribunda f. multijuga AGM in the early summer.

Wisterias for walls

Wisteria sinensis, often known as Chinese wisteria, blooms in the springtime before the leaves do. For example, Wisteria sinensis ‘Amethyst’ AGM has violet blue blooms with a reddish flush produced in dense racemes to 30cm (1ft) long in late spring or early summer. They twine anticlockwise and the racemes are shorter so they are best presented against a wall.

Silky wisteria (Wisteria brachybotrys), which can be grown against walls or on pergolas, with downy leaves and small racemes of 10-15cm (4-6in). White flowers with center yellow markings, a strong perfume, and 10-15 cm tall sprays of wisteria brachybotrys f. albiflora ‘Shiro-kapitan’ AGM bloom in the spring and early summer.

If you want to cultivate a wisteria in a big container

It is best to choose Wisteria fructens ‘Amethyst Falls’ because of its compact habit and rich clusters of lilac-blue blooms.

Always choose a wisteria that has been developed from cuttings or by grafting when purchasing one because seed-raised wisterias flower less consistently and take longer to bloom. The graft union should be seen as a swelling close to the stem’s base. Unlike species, named cultivars are virtually always grafted. Purchase your wisteria in flower or go with a specific cultivar to avoid disappointment.

Wisterias are offered for sale as container-grown plants at garden centers and online, and you can use the RHS Find a Plant tool to locate particular cultivars.

Wisteria should ideally be planted between October and April. Wisterias grown in containers can be planted at any time of the year, but fall and winter are the easiest times to maintain. Give them healthy, well-drained soil to plant in.

Wisterias bloom best in full sun, so pick a wall or pergola that faces south or west. Although blossoming will be diminished, they will still grow in light shade.

Wisterias are robust climbers that can grow to a height and width of more than 10 meters (33 feet). You’ll need to give support in the form of wires, trellises, or outside buildings like pergolas or arches against a wall. Wisteria can also be grown up a support or taught up a tree to create a standard. A wisteria can be grown in a border or container by being trained into a standard, which reduces its vigor.

If you want to grow your wisteria in a container, you’ll need a sizable one that is at least 45 cm (18 in) in diameter and is filled with potting soil with a loam basis, like John Innes No. 3.

Feeding

Use Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone on your wisteria in the spring at the suggested rate listed on the packet. Additionally, apply sulphate of potash at a rate of 20g per sq m (1/2 oz per sq yard) on sandy soils (which have low potassium levels). Fertilizers for flowering shrubs or roses are another option.

Feed wisteria in containers using Miracle-Gro, Phostrogen, or another comparable flowering plant food. A different option is to add controlled-release fertilizer to the compost.

Although wisteria has a reputation for being challenging to prune, this is untrue. Once you’ve made it a habit to prune your wisteria twice a year, you should be rewarded with a pleasing flower show.

When you prune regularly, you reduce the excessive, whippy growth from July and August to five to six leaves, or roughly 30 cm (1ft). This increases the possibility of blossom buds budding and permits the wood to ripen. Then, in February, trim these shoots even more to two or three buds, or around 10 cm (4 in), to tidy up the plant before the growing season starts and make it possible to observe the new flowers.

When your juvenile wisteria has completely covered a wall or other garden structure, start the routine pruning to promote flowering.

Small gardens benefit greatly from the training of wisteria as a free-standing standard in a border or container.

Wisteria can be trained to ascend into a tiny tree’s canopy, however doing so could eventually harm the tree. Pruning will be challenging if the plant develops into a huge tree, and a dense leaf canopy will affect flowering.

Increase your wisteria stocks by layering in the summer, taking softwood cuttings in the spring to mid-summer, or taking hardwood cuttings in the winter since seed-raised wisteria can take up to 20 years to flower.

Wisteria is typically propagated via grafting in professional nurseries, however layering is the simplest and most dependable technique for home gardeners.

Established wisteria can produce hanging, bean-like seedpods after a lengthy summer. While wisteria plants grown from seeds are typically of inferior quality, you might want to try growing wisteria yourself.

After the leaves have fallen, gather the seedpods and let them ripen in an open tray.
When the seed is ready, twist open the pod and sow it 2 cm (3/4 in) deep in seed compost.
Before planting if the seed is dry, soak it for 24 hours.

See our commonly asked questions page for a summary of wisteria issues.

Poor flowering

Poor flowering is the most frequent issue for backyard gardeners, and it can be brought on by a variety of factors, such as:

Young plants can take up to 20 years to flower, so acquire a plant that is already in bloom or go with a certain cultivar because they are typically grafted to avoid disappointment.
Examine your pruning methods and timing because early and midsummer trimming will prevent the growth of flowers the next year.
Wisteria flowers best in broad light; deep shadow produces few, if any, flowers.
Water your wisteria during periods of drought from July to September because a lack of water during this time will influence the development of flower buds the next year.
Flower buds may drop before opening as a result of spring frosts, which can harm or deform growing flowers.
Applying sulphate of potash in the spring will encourage bloom production for the next year in soils that may lack potassium.
The damage caused by pigeons or mice can be identified by torn petals or distinctive teeth marks.