Where To Buy Evergreen Wisteria

In contrast to the popular Chinese Wisteria, the evergreen variety can remain evergreen in mild winter climates (zones 9–10) but is typically deciduous in other regions. Developed plants will consistently bloom from late spring to fall. Bees and other tiny pollinators are attracted to the flowers.

Wisteria that never loses its leaves

Both rabbits and chickens are considered to be animals, don’t you think? Evergreen Wisteria is neither a genuine wisteria and neither is it evergreen. Even though both Wisteria sinensis and Evergreen Wisteria belong to the same plant family called legumes and have big purple blossoms that remind me of grapes, we all recognize Wisteria sinensis as the Chinese Wisteria vine. Here’s why I prefer advising my clients to choose the Evergreen Wisteria over the Chinese Wisteria:

Features of the plant

Depending on the environment, evergreen wisteria can reach heights of 15 to 30 feet and can easily trained on any garden building. If it gets cold enough, the foliage is deciduous (drops in winter) and dark green. Since they are perennials, each spring they will produce fresh growth. The Chinese Wisteria only blooms in the spring, unlike the deep purple blossoms, which appear in the middle of summer. Another obvious distinction between Evergreen Wisteria and Chinese Wisteria is how it grows. Chinese wisteria tends to run into the lawn or garden, whereas Evergreen wisteria has a more controlled habit, clumps better, and doesn’t do that. In addition, the Evergreen has substantially fuller foliage than the Chinese Wisteria.

The Evergreen Wisteria has pea-like blooms that are 6–8 inches long and are smaller than those on the regular vine. When many plants have withered due to the heat, they bloom in the middle to late summer, which is nice. The beautiful royal purple blossoms stand out against the greenery. These flowers have AMAZING FLAVOR! Anyone and everyone will be drawn to this region of your garden by the sweet, alluring smell. They can survive in a variety of soil and moisture conditions. If pets consume the vine’s seeds or bark, they become harmful to them.

Plant Care

Evergreen wisteria should be planted in well-drained soil in a sunny location. If it isn’t raining, they prefer routine watering. Getting rid of spent blooms, or deadheading, will encourage more active flowering. A liquid fertilizer with a bloom-booster is ideal for fertilizing Evergreen Wisteria, while granular slow release fertilizer is are enough. When they are being cut back for the upcoming growth season in late winter or early spring, prune.


The Evergreen Wisteria can be trained to grow on pergolas, fences, trellises, arbors, and pretty much anything else in your yard! They can be used to add some seclusion or to cover up ugly areas like an air conditioner. They are excellent veggie garden companion plants. They fix nitrogen, a vital component of soil, in the ground. Your favorite fresh vegetables are a great addition to an edible space like a raised or rowed garden because this will also benefit the surrounding plants.

I’ve spent a lot of time teaching Evergreen Wisteria how to grow on arbors for both commercial and customer use. Truly a labor of love, it is worth every bit of effort since the opulent beauty and scent in your favorite garden seating area are the reward.

Blue wisteria has evergreen foliage.

Since the true wisteria is deciduous, its leaves fall off over the winter. It does, however, have a near relative called Evergreen Wisteria, which is deciduous in certain areas and evergreen in others.

True Wisteria species that are frequently cultivated in gardens are:

  • Mandarin wisteria (Wisteria sinensis)
  • Asian Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)
  • Wisteria Americana (Wisteria frutescens)
  • Western Wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya)

Although it is not a member of the Wisteria genus, Evergreen Wisteria—also known as Summer Wisteria—is related to it. It belongs to the Millettieae tribe of the Fabaceae (pea) family, just like Wisteria. Evergreen Wisteria is more commonly referred to as Millettia reticulata or Callerya reticulata, while botanists debate on its exact nomenclature. In most temperate climes, it is deciduous; but, in warmer areas (zones 9 and 10 in the US), it is evergreen.

How are evergreen wisterias trained?

Wisteria vines, which are evergreen, can grow in any type of soil as long as it is well-drained and can tolerate most soil pHs. After the last frost, directly sow seeds in the spring or the fall. It can be grown on a range of structures, such as trellises, arbors, and fences.

The stems of evergreen wisteria twine around vertical supports because it is a twining vine. This implies that if you want your vines to climb up or along fences or trellises, you might need to give it a little assistance in finding its way.

While vines’ continual upward growth might be fantastic for towering structures like arbors, they can seem sparse at the base of fences and trellises without any work on your side. By weaving new shoots sideways through the gaps in your fence or trellis, you can train your evergreen wisteria. As the vine spreads, keep doing that. Trim some of the lower stems of your evergreen wisteria once it has reached the top of the fence or trellis to encourage fresh growth.

To keep your vine in check, prune it occasionally. Your vine will continue to blossom if you deadhead (remove spent flowers).

Maintain the soil moist and, if necessary, give your vine two to three applications of granular fertilizer during the growing season to keep it flourishing. Although there aren’t many pest issues with this plant, aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies can still harm your vines, so keep an eye out for any unwelcome guests.

Any landscape will benefit from the rich summer color and climbing visual appeal provided by evergreen wisteria.

What distinguishes a wisteria tree from a wisteria vine?

Do wisteria vines and trees differ from one another? I’ve been looking for a place to buy a tree because I’ve seen photographs. I’m always being pointed toward the vine, though. Any information would be helpful.

“Wisteria is a deciduous twining climber native to China, Japan, and eastern United States; there is no botanical distinction between a Wisteria vine and a Wisteria tree. British Royal Horticultural Society The training and trimming make a difference. The tree form is a wonderful choice for planting Wisteria in a smaller garden because it has a 30-foot growth potential and may be rather aggressive. These two websites demonstrate how to shape a wisteria vine into either the traditional or tree form. There is also a link to instructions on growing wisteria.

What season is ideal for wisteria planting?

Wisterias thrive in full light, fertile soil, and both. Of the 10 species, three are grown the most frequently: Wisteria brachybotrys, Wisteria sinensis, and Wisteria floribunda, which are native to China, Japan, and the eastern United States (silky wisteria). All three species have significant growth rates and can extend out to a maximum of 20 meters (66 feet) against a wall or around 10 meters (33 feet) in trees. Wisteria can also be trained to grow as a free-standing standard in a big container or border.

Wisterias for pergolas and arches

The Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) is best exhibited hanging down from a garden structure like a pergola or arch since it has the longest flower sprays (or racemes) of all the species. They entwine in a clockwise motion while simultaneously bearing blooms and leaves. Lilac blue blooms and racemes as long as 1.2 meters (4 feet) are produced by Wisteria floribunda f. multijuga AGM in the early summer.

Wisterias for walls

Wisteria sinensis, often known as Chinese wisteria, blooms in the springtime before the leaves do. For example, Wisteria sinensis ‘Amethyst’ AGM has violet blue blooms with a reddish flush produced in dense racemes to 30cm (1ft) long in late spring or early summer. They twine anticlockwise and the racemes are shorter so they are best presented against a wall.

Silky wisteria (Wisteria brachybotrys), which can be grown against walls or on pergolas, with downy leaves and small racemes of 10-15cm (4-6in). White flowers with center yellow markings, a strong perfume, and 10-15 cm tall sprays of wisteria brachybotrys f. albiflora ‘Shiro-kapitan’ AGM bloom in the spring and early summer.

If you want to cultivate a wisteria in a big container

It is best to choose Wisteria fructens ‘Amethyst Falls’ because of its compact habit and rich clusters of lilac-blue blooms.

Always choose a wisteria that has been developed from cuttings or by grafting when purchasing one because seed-raised wisterias flower less consistently and take longer to bloom. The graft union should be seen as a swelling close to the stem’s base. Unlike species, named cultivars are virtually always grafted. Purchase your wisteria in flower or go with a specific cultivar to avoid disappointment.

Wisterias are offered for sale as container-grown plants at garden centers and online, and you can use the RHS Find a Plant tool to locate particular cultivars.

Wisteria should ideally be planted between October and April. Wisterias grown in containers can be planted at any time of the year, but fall and winter are the easiest times to maintain. Give them healthy, well-drained soil to plant in.

Wisterias bloom best in full sun, so pick a wall or pergola that faces south or west. Although blossoming will be diminished, they will still grow in light shade.

Wisterias are robust climbers that can grow to a height and width of more than 10 meters (33 feet). You’ll need to give support in the form of wires, trellises, or outside buildings like pergolas or arches against a wall. Wisteria can also be grown up a support or taught up a tree to create a standard. A wisteria can be grown in a border or container by being trained into a standard, which reduces its vigor.

If you want to grow your wisteria in a container, you’ll need a sizable one that is at least 45 cm (18 in) in diameter and is filled with potting soil with a loam basis, like John Innes No. 3.


Use Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone on your wisteria in the spring at the suggested rate listed on the packet. Additionally, apply sulphate of potash at a rate of 20g per sq m (1/2 oz per sq yard) on sandy soils (which have low potassium levels). Fertilizers for flowering shrubs or roses are another option.

Feed wisteria in containers using Miracle-Gro, Phostrogen, or another comparable flowering plant food. A different option is to add controlled-release fertilizer to the compost.

Although wisteria has a reputation for being challenging to prune, this is untrue. Once you’ve made it a habit to prune your wisteria twice a year, you should be rewarded with a pleasing flower show.

When you prune regularly, you reduce the excessive, whippy growth from July and August to five to six leaves, or roughly 30 cm (1ft). This increases the possibility of blossom buds budding and permits the wood to ripen. Then, in February, trim these shoots even more to two or three buds, or around 10 cm (4 in), to tidy up the plant before the growing season starts and make it possible to observe the new flowers.

When your juvenile wisteria has completely covered a wall or other garden structure, start the routine pruning to promote flowering.

Small gardens benefit greatly from the training of wisteria as a free-standing standard in a border or container.

Wisteria can be trained to ascend into a tiny tree’s canopy, however doing so could eventually harm the tree. Pruning will be challenging if the plant develops into a huge tree, and a dense leaf canopy will affect flowering.

Increase your wisteria stocks by layering in the summer, taking softwood cuttings in the spring to mid-summer, or taking hardwood cuttings in the winter since seed-raised wisteria can take up to 20 years to flower.

Wisteria is typically propagated via grafting in professional nurseries, however layering is the simplest and most dependable technique for home gardeners.

Established wisteria can produce hanging, bean-like seedpods after a lengthy summer. While wisteria plants grown from seeds are typically of inferior quality, you might want to try growing wisteria yourself.

  • After the leaves have fallen, gather the seedpods and let them ripen in an open tray.
  • When the seed is ready, twist open the pod and sow it 2 cm (3/4 in) deep in seed compost.
  • Before planting if the seed is dry, soak it for 24 hours.

See our commonly asked questions page for a summary of wisteria issues.

Poor flowering

Poor flowering is the most frequent issue for backyard gardeners, and it can be brought on by a variety of factors, such as:

  • Young plants can take up to 20 years to flower, so acquire a plant that is already in bloom or go with a certain cultivar because they are typically grafted to avoid disappointment.
  • Examine your pruning methods and timing because early and midsummer trimming will prevent the growth of flowers the next year.
  • Wisteria flowers best in broad light; deep shadow produces few, if any, flowers.
  • Water your wisteria during periods of drought from July to September because a lack of water during this time will influence the development of flower buds the next year.
  • Flower buds may drop before opening as a result of spring frosts, which can harm or deform growing flowers.
  • Applying sulphate of potash in the spring will encourage bloom production for the next year in soils that may lack potassium.
  • The damage caused by pigeons or mice can be identified by torn petals or distinctive teeth marks.

Other problems

A mature, seemingly robust wisteria will occasionally pass away and be replaced by a new, healthy branch emerging from the ground. Failure of the wisteria graft may be the reason of this.

Wisteria is sensitive to both of the fungi that cause phytophthora root rot and honey fungus, which are less frequent causes of failure.

Unusual brown blotches and marks on the leaves, typically with a yellow edge, may be a sign that a fungus has infected them. Viruses can also harm wisteria and powdery mildew.

Infestations of scale and, less frequently, wisteria scale can affect wisterias.

While we hope this information may be useful to you, we always advise reading the labels on your plants that provide care instructions.

Exists a wisteria that isn’t invasive?

Compact native wisteria blossoms can be seen twining on a Charleston, South Carolina, home’s gate.

Have you fought the invasive wisteria for half your life? Don’t give up; it has 200 years to catch up. While Wisteria floribunda was brought to the country in the 1830s, Wisteria sinensis arrived in America in 1816. “Floribunda is a fitting term for this invasive species as it is both floral and monstrously prolific. They were both brought here by well-meaning plant explorers from China and Japan, respectively. Do you hear a knock on your door? Surprise! A wisteria runner is poised to eat your banister. Your refrigerator just opened? Oh, it’s just a hungry wisteria sucker, I see. That garden gate made of iron? snapped by our pal floribunda like a chicken bone.

Wisteria that spreads quickly is perfect in today’s world of immediate pleasure. It continues to expand without stopping. After a harsh winter, the heady aroma and profusion of purple blossoms are a wonderful sign of spring. So go ahead and plant some as long as you have machete-wielding gardening security on hand constantly and/or don’t need to sleep at night. There is a wonderful alternative for those of us who cannot afford a horticultural army.

A calmer option to Asian wisteria that is native to the Southeast of the United States is Wisteria frutescens. We enquired further about this underappreciated natural gem from Peggy Cornett, the Monticello’s plant curator. She claims that by the year 1780, this hardy vine was being grown in America. It was dubbed the “Carolina Kidney Bean Tree” and was grown by Lady Jean Skipwith, a passionate gardener and plantswoman in the late eighteenth century, in her garden at Prestwould in rural south-central Virginia. In honor of his friend and mentor Caspar Wistar (1761–1818), a Philadelphia physician and paleontologist, botanist Thomas Nuttall gave the genus “wisteria” his name. However, the early nineteenth century’s introduction of the bloom-heavy Chinese and Japanese types overwhelmed interest in native wisteria.

It’s simple to identify those enlightened souls who have embraced native wisteria in G&G’s Charleston, South Carolina, headquarters. With shorter, more compact clusters of dark purple blossoms, Wisteria frutescens blooms reach their best in late spring and early summer, frequently after the Asian variety starts to fade. One such instance is the property on Tradd Street where the frutescens seen above was taken; a young vine is clinging to the iron gate. Unlike invasive wisteria, which can occasionally take up to 10 years to bloom, native wisteria develops quickly and typically blooms after the first year. Wisteria frutescens is the creeper for you if you are inspired to have wisteria in your landscaping but also want to prevent your house from being pulled off its foundation.