When To Pick Wisteria Seed Pods

The optimum time to collect the seed pods you need is in the fall. When the mature plant has lost all of its leaves, you can select your pods. Pick the pods up before they open, and then put them somewhere warm and dry. You must let them dry all the way through until they are very brittle. Twist them to release the seeds once you are certain they are completely dry.

Simply place your seeds in a sealed container and wait until spring to start them. The seeds should be soaked in warm water overnight before you plant them. Give one or two seeds per pot while filling sterile starter pots with well-draining sterile soil. Soak the soil for as long as it takes for it to completely drain out of the pots.

Place the pots where they will get at least 65 degrees F and plant the seeds no deeper than one inch (2.5 cm) (18 C.). As soon as the soil’s top begins to dry, water the tiny pots. Until sprouts appear, you can cover the pots with plastic. One to two months may pass before germination occurs.

Should I take the Wisteria’s seed pods off?

Depending on the kind, the climate, and your pollinators, your wisteria will most likely develop seed pods if you don’t deadhead it. Deadheading will stop the development of seed pods altogether.

The seed pods of wisteria actually explode! Wisteria naturally disperses its seeds by making a popping noise, shooting out, and landing a few feet distant. In the late October, the popping typically occurs on a warm day. However, you may easily remove the seed pods before they turn brown or become completely dry if you don’t want Wisteria seeds to cover your yard. Keep in mind that the pods and seeds of wisteria are harmful.

Due to the aesthetics in the fall and winter, when so many gardens are drab and brown, many gardeners prefer to save the seed pods. Observing the pods explode is entertaining, and you may save the seeds to plant later.

On the other hand, since the seed pods are deadly if consumed, you might want to remove them. Removing them also stops the yard’s grass seeds from spontaneously springing everywhere. It will leave more space for the buds to grow in and offer you a better glimpse of their cascading petals if you remove the pods now.

Wisteria may be grown from seeds, but it may take your plants many years to blossom and they won’t look exactly like the Wisteria you acquired the seeds from. The best time to gather Wisteria seeds for planting is in the fall, after the pods have dried out and turned brown but before they have popped. You can plant wisteria seeds in the spring or the fall.

Must I get rid of the seed pods?

A healthy layer of mulch to make pulling weeds simpler, watering trees well in hot weather, and removing seed pods from plants before they scatter their seeds all over the garden are all suggested by garden writer Ciscoe Morris.

Why do the pods on my wisteria exist?

In gardens across U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, Wisteria plants (Wisteria spp.) add beauty. Many of these plants produce explosive seed pods in the fall, which can frighten unprepared gardeners and bystanders. The plants produce 4- to 6-inch-long seed pods that resemble giant pea pods when the warmth of summer and the wisteria’s blossoms start to fade. The pods progressively dehydrate as they wait on the tree for a beautiful autumn day, soaking up the sun’s heat until it causes the pods to explode. As a result, a scattering of wisteria seeds fall to the ground and emit a loud popping noise that is frequently mistaken for gunshots. This disperses the seeds far enough from the parent plant so that they can sprout and grow without competition. Many gardeners remove these seed pods before they open because wisteria tendrils spread so far as the plant matures. This prevents the plant from spreading further. However, if you want even more of these lovely plants, you may gather the pods, collect the seeds, and cultivate your own.

Twist the seed pod while holding it over a tray to split it in half and release the seeds. If you’d like, you can put the seed pod in a lidded container and wait for it to automatically pop open, dispensing the seeds into the container for you. Because seed pods open with force, make sure the container lid is sturdy and fastened tightly.

How soon do wisteria seedlings begin to grow?

When the soil surface starts to dry up, water the pot and keep it in a 65°F area. When the seeds are germinating, covering the pot with a plastic bag will help keep the moisture in, but once the seeds sprout, remove the bag. Wisteria seeds might take 30 to 60 days to sprout.

Can wisteria be rooted in water?

Placing Wisteria cuttings in water is one of the most popular methods used by individuals to attempt and root them. It’s challenging for these plants to effectively root with this technique, though. Make sure it’s a softwood cutting if you want to attempt to root your wisteria using water. Your hardwood stems shouldn’t be submerged for an extended amount of time.

Put the base of a softwood cutting into a glass of water to keep it hydrated if you don’t plan to plant it right away. If you’re lucky, if you keep the base of the cutting submerged, it might start to produce roots.

Because wisteria dislikes having damp feet, it thrives in well-drained or even sandy soil. The ideal method for allowing your cutting to take root is to place it in a pot.

Taking Wisteria Cuttings

Obtaining the cuttings is the first step in growing wisteria from seed. Wisteria pruning, as previously indicated, can be an excellent source of cuttings, but you can also collect wisteria cuttings from the plant expressly for wisteria plant germination.

It is necessary to cut wisteria from the softwood. The wood in question is still green and lacks a woody bark. There should be at least two sets of leaves on the cutting, which should be 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) long.

Preparing Wisteria Cuttings for Rooting

Remove any sets of leaves discovered on the lower half of the wisteria cutting once you have it. These will be the principal locations where new roots form. The cutting should be trimmed so that the lowest node, which is where the leaves you just removed were, is 1/2 to 1/4 inch (1 to 6 ml) from the bottom. You can remove any flower buds that may be present on the cutting.

Rooting Wisteria Plants

Fill a pot with potting soil that drains properly and has been sufficiently watered. Rooting hormone should be applied to the cutting’s rooting end. Create a hole in the potting soil with a stick or your finger, then insert the wisteria cutting, carefully pressing the earth down around it.

Put some plastic wrap on top of the pot or put the entire pot in a plastic bag to completely enclose it. You might wish to use sticks to prop the plastic away from the cuttings because it is crucial that it not touch the cuts. The plastic aids in retaining humidity, which raises the likelihood that wisteria cuttings will grow successfully.

Put the wisteria cuttings in their pot somewhere where they will get enough of bright, indirect light. When the soil feels dry to the touch, check it periodically and water. Within four to six weeks, the cuttings ought grow have roots.

Knowing how to propagate wisteria properly will make it simple to grow wisteria from cuttings.

Are pods produced by all Wisteria?

Although wisterias have lovely flowers, Peter Valder observed that some individuals appear astonished to find the plant’s seed pods. When Peter Valder recently visited some Mt Wilson gardens, he took a closer look at these plants.

Ornamental pods

Like peas and beans, wisteria is a legume that develops seed pods after flowering. The Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), in contrast to the Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), produces clusters of long, elongated pods that resemble bean pods and are numerous. Another benefit of the Japanese wisteria is its stunning autumn butter-yellow leaves.


Using a pair of secateurs, get rid of the pods if you’re sick of them and wish to clean up the wisteria before it blooms in the spring.

Don’t cut the stems back too much, as there may be buds that may bloom in the spring. Leave a few centimeters at the top at all times.

Grow your own

Gather the pods and allow them to dry if you want to attempt producing your own wisterias from seed. Gather the pods after the leaves have fallen in the autumn and set them onto a tray to dry because the seeds usually explode from the pods. Twist the pods open, then plant the seeds 2 cm (almost 1) deep in a mix that is readily permeable.

How are seed pods dried?

When seeds are moist, they should germinate, and when they are dry, they should hibernate. It’s crucial to dry your seeds after harvesting them for this reason. The optimum method for drying seeds is open air, and there are various techniques for setting up the ideal environment utilizing common home items.

Let’s go through what it means for a seed to be “dry” first. Your garden’s seeds should be fully mature when you harvest them. That means that for plants with pods or seed heads, such as beans, onions, and the majority of flowers, the pods and seed heads should be completely browned and dried on the plants. Even though the seeds appear to be dry now, rain and dew have nevertheless provided them with a significant amount of moisture. Evidently, seeds from squishy fruits like tomatoes or melon are not dry when they are harvested. In all circumstances, seeds must be dispersed and air dried before they may be safely kept.

Many people who conserve seeds have learned this the hard way. Freshly harvested bean seeds feel dry to the touch, but when placed in a sealed container or plastic bag, they quickly begin to mold since they aren’t actually dry on the inside. When you remove flower seed heads from your plants on a sunny day, they may appear dry, but if you immediately place them in a plastic bag, you’ll find that a few weeks later they are stuck together with mold.

Spreading seeds out so that the air can reach each one and allowing them to dry naturally in the open air are the best ways to dry them. As long as the seeds are dispersed thinly so they may dry rapidly, plates, wide bowls, pie plates, baking sheets, and serving trays are all suitable containers. In an effort to save space, I have occasionally piled the seeds four or five layers high. That’s typically a bad idea because the bottom seeds can’t get any air contact, which makes it difficult for them to dry rapidly. As a result, they either mold or sprout before drying!

Drying your seeds on a screen is an even better approach to get them in contact with the air. Once they have dried both on the inside and the outside, you can spread them a little thicker. Any type of sieve or strainer, frying basket, or salad spinner will work, provided the mesh is small enough to hold the seeds. Window screens also work well and may be attached to a frame with relative ease; alternatively, you might be able to find screens from old windows.

When drying wet seeds, such those from tomatoes, you should strive to have them completely dry in three days. Any longer and there is a chance that they will sprout in your drying pan. Given that you cannot force the roots to re-establish, this is plainly catastrophic for the seeds. Once they have sprouted, they won’t re-germinate.

Here are two suggestions to make the drying process simple, regardless of the technique you choose:

  • As the seeds dry, stir them. This promotes consistent drying and reveals any seeds that have less air contact. Additionally, now is the ideal moment to separate seed clusters that will later awkwardly stay together. You’ve probably noticed how tomato seeds clump together if you’ve ever preserved a lot of them. You won’t have any clumps later if you stir them while they’re halfway dry.
  • Run an electric fan someplace in the room if the seeds don’t dry out quickly enough or if the air is too humid during a week of rain. Air movement of any size can have a significant impact.

Heat is unnecessary and potentially harmful. Some seed savers have experimented with utilizing food dehydrators or ovens set to a “low” temperature to hasten the drying process. There is no “low” setting on an oven that won’t cook seeds because they tend to perish when they are heated even little. More efficient and secure than any type of heat is ventilation and air movement.

Due to the ease of removal, some individuals prefer to dry seeds on parchment or waxed paper. Because paper towels absorb moisture from the seeds, some people prefer to dry their seeds on them. I personally don’t like how seeds attach to paper towels, but a man said it was the greatest option for him during a seed-saving session last week. I don’t contest other people’s achievements.

Above all, take care to prevent seed mixing. Previously, I dried tomato seeds on plates, but I now use cake pans instead because the sides stop the seeds from falling out and mingling.

In the end, trust our arid Canadian winter air to properly dry off your seeds. By November, your home’s air will be sufficiently dry from natural causes for you to store your seeds in airtight jars or plastic bags without risk. Until then, store them in paper bags or envelopes and keep them dry by sealing them. At Seeds of Diversity, we store seeds in jars at room temperature, and if the jars are shut when the seeds are completely dry, they last for many years. For extremely long-term storage, we also freeze seeds, although this requires improved drying with silica gel, a subject for another post.