When To Move Wisteria

The drawback of moving established wisteria is that it can take several years for the vine to bloom once again. When the plant is dormant but the soil is still workable, late fall or early spring are the best times to transplant wisteria. Pick your website wisely. You shouldn’t repeat this mistake!

Can I move a wisteria in the UK?

The optimum time to transplant wisteria is in late fall or early spring, when it is dormant. The optimum time to plant is in the early spring, ideally between the end of March and early to mid-April, when your plant will benefit from the growing season and better environmental circumstances following the shock of the transfer.

Step 1: Choose a New Location

This could be the most significant step in moving your wisteria. Choose a location where your Wisteria will receive plenty of sun (at least six hours each day), has access to soil that drains properly, and is near something strong enough to sustain its weight and size as it rises. This will offer the plant the best chance of success following moving day.

Wisteria thrives on neutral to slightly acidic, moderately fertile soil. Too alkaline soil could hinder the vine from flowering. To make sure that your Wisteria gets off to a good start, it’s not a bad idea to test the soil at the new place. You can accomplish this at home using a test kit, or your neighborhood extension office can do it more precisely.

Step 2: Prepare for Transport

Make careful to give your Wisteria extra water in the days before the big relocation, especially if the weather is dry outside. The more water the plant can absorb, the less liquid it will lose when it inevitably loses some of its roots during the transfer.

When you’re prepared to relocate the Wisteria, start by digging the hole there. If you look at the estimated size of the branch spread, you can estimate that it should be at least twice the size of your wisteria’s root ball (near to three times the size is optimal).

In order to improve the soil’s structure and consistency, prepare the soil by adding any necessary materials based on the findings of the soil test as well as some high-quality compost, grass clippings, or peat moss.

Trim any dead vines from the wisteria and reduce the main vines to no longer than two-thirds of their original length to prepare it. (Ideally, you can do this in the fall before you move the Wisteria in the spring, but you can still clip it back right before moving if you can’t). It totally depends on you and how much plant you want to manage whether you want to clip the top branches for easy handling or not.

Step 3: Dig Up the Wisteria

Make a clean cut into the earth all the way around the plant using a clean, sharp spade or shovel. Make sure you extend at least 24 feet from the plant’s base, but if you’d like, you can extend it up to roughly four feet (depending on how big the plant and root ball is). 18 to 24 inches should be dug down.

The idea is to keep the root ball intact while completely severing the roots. Once the roots have been cut, bury a shovel underneath the root ball and gently pull it toward the surface by pressing down on the handle. Repeat the same on the other side after removing the shovel. To separate the roots and remove the root ball without causing damage, you might need to go around the circle numerous times.

Put the root ball and as much of the surrounding dirt as you can on a moist piece of burlap or a tarp. To stop the soil from drying out and lessen stress on the plant, wrap the burlap or sheet around the root ball and soil.

Step 4: Replant Your Wisteria

All that’s left to do is pour some water to the hole since you’ve already prepared the soil and drilled the hole. Watering will assist in preventing the root tips from drying out following the transplant procedure.

Place the root ball into the hole with care, making sure that the depth is suitable for the stem, which should be planted at the same depth as before. Spread out the soil you brought from the starting point evenly over and around the root ball before adding it. To avoid sunburn, position your Wisteria in the same direction as previously, if at all possible.

Completely fill the hole with earth, give it a gentle tamp to remove air pockets, and then immerse the wisteria. The root ball should be totally wet.

Step 5: Continue to Care for Your Relocated Wisteria

As soon as possible, make sure your wisteria has a stake or other kind of support. After that, keep watering it until it becomes established in its new location at a rate of roughly one inch each week. Wisteria normally doesn’t require fertilizer, but if you want to promote new growth, you can add some fertilizer.

The wisteria will focus its efforts on regrowing roots and foliage once it takes hold and starts to grow anew. Once more, don’t hold your breath for any blossoms for several years.

How is wisteria transplanted?

A 10-Year-Old Wisteria Bush: Moving Instructions

  • Choose the location where the wisteria will be transplanted. Select a new location that receives at least six hours a day of direct sunlight.
  • The wisteria plant needs irrigation.
  • Check the soil.
  • Cut out the roots.
  • Enclose the roots.
  • Set the Wisteria in place.
  • Water the transplanted wisteria.
  • Regularly water the wisteria.

Do wisteria’s roots go deep?

In order to support the massive vine, the wisteria’s root system extends out widely and dives deep. Do wisteria roots exhibit aggression? Yes, wisteria’s root system is highly aggressive. Avoid planting wisteria next to walls or walkways because of its extensive and strong root system. These are easily harmed by a wisteria’s root system.

Experts advise inserting a corrugated panel about 6 feet (1.8 m) long and several feet (1 m) broad beside the plant to redirect the roots if you find a wisteria close to a building or pathway.

A wisteria can you dig up and move?

Trim the vine to a height of around 3 feet (1 m). Start your excavation between 18 and 24 inches (46 and 61 cm) from the stem. You have to go deep to properly transplant wisteria. Around your transplant, keep circling and digging and prodding.

Take up as much of a root ball as you can because wisteria dislikes being moved. The more roots a wisteria plant has in its native soil, the better its chances of surviving the transfer. Drag the root ball to its new location while it is supported by a tarp.

Dig the new hole twice as big as the root ball when it’s time to transplant the wisteria. To give your transplant the finest new home, combine the hole’s soil with up to 50% compost or leaf mold. Wisteria thrives in areas with rich soil and lots of sunlight. Early in the day or late at night are the ideal times to transplant wisteria. Get the vine staked right away. Water thoroughly and cross your fingers.

Wisteria transplanting can be laborious and taxing on the back, but doing it correctly can boost your chances of success. Good luck and dig safely!

Can wisteria successfully transplant?

  • Annual root pruning, like the kind you do the fall before transplanting, can help the wisteria get less nitrogen and flower more.
  • Wait at least three years before the wisteria starts to bloom once more. If the plant grows and the foliage stays green after transplantation, you have succeeded.
  • To avoid accidently cutting utility lines, always call your utility company or a nearby utility locating service before you start digging.
  • Usually, wisteria vines do not transplant well. The best choice is to get a new plant if the wisteria is older than 20 years. You have a better chance of transplanting a young plant because it hasn’t had a chance to establish itself in its original site.

Can you fully prune the wisteria?

If the wisteria plant has a lot of dry, old branches and appears to be highly out of shape, it can be severely pruned back.

In order to renovate the plant, it is occasionally necessary to remove every branch, all the way to the main stem or even to the ground. Your wisterias will be inspired to grow new, robust branches as a result of this severe trimming.

McKenzie cautions that while the growth will be of much superior quality, the wisteria may not blossom for two or three years following a hard cut back.

A new pergola or arch can be created by “hard pruning” in addition to retraining the plant.

Cuttings of wisteria can they grow in water?

Placing Wisteria cuttings in water is one of the most popular methods used by individuals to attempt and root them. It’s challenging for these plants to effectively root with this technique, though. Make sure it’s a softwood cutting if you want to attempt to root your wisteria using water. Your hardwood stems shouldn’t be submerged for an extended amount of time.

Put the base of a softwood cutting into a glass of water to keep it hydrated if you don’t plan to plant it right away. If you’re lucky, if you keep the base of the cutting submerged, it might start to produce roots.

Because wisteria dislikes having damp feet, it thrives in well-drained or even sandy soil. The ideal method for allowing your cutting to take root is to place it in a pot.

Where should a wisteria plant be planted?

In the spring, wisteria blooms ferociously, producing clusters of lilac-colored flowers on fresh growth that develops from spurs off the main stalks. Check out our Wisteria Growing Guide for more information on wisteria maintenance, including planting and pruning.

About Wisteria

Wisteria is a long-living vining shrub with cascades of blue to purple blossoms that, in the spring and early summer, look stunning hanging from a pergola or archway. However, this vine is known to grow fairly heavy and to grow quickly and aggressively, frequently reaching lengths of more than 30 feet. It’s advised not to put wisteria vines too close to your home since they will squirm their way into any crack or crevice they can find.

Beautifully fragrant wisteria flowers offer a feast for the senses. A brown, bean-like pod remains on the plant during the winter after flowering. There are only blooms on fresh growth.

Note: Be careful when planting wisteria! The wisteria plant contains lectin and wisterin, which are poisonous to people, animals, and even pets. If taken in significant quantities, these poisons can result in anything from nausea and diarrhea to death.

Is Wisteria an Invasive Plant?

The wisteria species Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria floribunda, which are not native to North America, are regarded as invasive in several areas. If you want to add a new wisteria to your garden, we advise choosing one of the native North American varieties, such as American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) or Kentucky wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya), which are excellent alternatives to the Asian species.

Do you want to know how to distinguish between North American and Asian species?

While North American wisteria is not quite as aggressive in its growing tendencies and has smooth seed pods and fruits in addition to more-or-less cylindrical, bean-shaped seeds, Asian wisteria is an aggressive grower with fuzzy seed pods. Another distinction is that the flowers of American and Kentucky wisterias appear in the late spring after the plant has begun to leaf out, whereas those of Chinese wisteria do not.

When to Plant Wisteria

  • Plant during the plant’s dormant season in the spring or fall.
  • Wisteria can be grown from seed, although plants from seeds frequently take many years to mature and begin to bloom. It is advised to buy wisteria plants that are already established or to begin with a cutting.

Where to Plant Wisteria

  • Put a plant in full sun. Even while wisteria will grow in some shade, it won’t likely bloom. Sunlight is necessary.
  • Wisteria should be grown in fertile, wet, but well-draining soil.
  • Wisteria will grow in most soils unless it is in bad condition, in which case you need add compost. Find out more about soil improvements and getting the soil ready for planting.
  • Because wisteria grows swiftly and can easily engulf its neighbors, pick a location apart from other plants.
  • Additionally, wisteria is renowned for encroaching on and infiltrating surrounding buildings like homes, garages, sheds, and so on. We highly advise against growing wisteria too near your house!
  • Wisteria vines need a very strong support, like a metal or wooden trellis or pergola, to climb on. Plan carefully and use substantial materials to construct your structure because mature plants have been known to become so heavy that they destroy their supports.

Wisteria looks gorgeous growing up the side of a house, but use caution when planting it because it is a very strong vine that will get into any crack or gap!

Caring for Wisteria

  • Apply a 2-inch layer of mulch and a layer of compost under the plant each spring to keep moisture in and keep weeds at bay.
  • Phosphorus is often used by gardeners to promote flowering. In the spring, work a few cups of bone meal into the soil. Then, in the fall, add some rock phosphate. Study up on soil amendments.
  • If you get less than an inch of rain each week, water your plants. (To determine how much rain you are receiving, set an empty food can outside and use a measuring stick to gauge the depth of the water.)
  • During the summer, try pruning the out-of-control shoots every two weeks for more blooms.

Pruning Wisteria

  • In the late winter, prune wisteria. Remove at least half of the growth from the previous year, leaving only a few buds on each stem.
  • Also prune in the summer after customary flowering if you prefer a more formal appearance. On fresh growth, spurs from the main shoots of the wisteria develop its blossoms. Trim back every new shoot from this year to a spur, leaving no more than 6 inches of growth. So that there are no free, trailing shoots, the entire plant can be trained, roped in, and otherwise organized throughout this procedure.
  • Mature plants that have been cultivated informally require little to no more pruning. However, for a plant that has been formally trained, side branches should be pruned back in the summer to 6 inches, then again in the winter to 3 buds.
  • Possess you a fresh wisteria? After planting, aggressively prune the vine. Then, the next year, trim the main stem or stems to a height of 3 feet from the growth of the previous year. After the framework has grown to its full size, midsummer extension growth should be cut back to where it started that season.