What To Plant With Wisteria

What kind of plant would go well with wisteria? You can plant clematis and wisteria on the same support because they both thrive in the same conditions. A wisteria with deep blue or purple blooms will contrast attractively with a clematis with pink blooms.

What might I grow close to wisteria?

Wisteria and clematis are excellent garden companions. Both straining for the sun, they can peacefully share the same arch or trellis. They frequently appear far more lovely when combined than when viewed separately.

Where shouldn’t wisteria be grown?

In order to support the massive vine, the wisteria’s root system extends out widely and dives deep. Do wisteria roots exhibit aggression? Yes, wisteria’s root system is highly aggressive. Avoid planting wisteria next to walls or walkways because of its extensive and strong root system. These are easily harmed by a wisteria’s root system.

Experts advise inserting a corrugated panel about 6 feet (1.8 m) long and several feet (1 m) broad beside the plant to redirect the roots if you find a wisteria close to a building or pathway.

Wisteria pairs well with which Clematis?

Clematis and wisteria In May and June, Wisteria floribunda ‘Rosea’ starts this flower extravaganza, and Clematis ‘Kermesina’ takes over from there. To support the plants, try building a homemade pergola or arbour.

Do wisteria’s effects harm other plants?

Without pruning, wisterias often produce fewer blooms. In their competition for sunshine and space, wisterias can destroy other plants if left unchecked. Wisterias should be clipped in the early summer, after flowering is over, to prevent harming nearby plants and the building itself. Cut the side shoots that emerge from the main stem to a length of about 6 inches. To stop the vine from encroaching on other plants in the garden, cut off any shoots that are emerging from the plant’s base. Heavy pruning can boost sprouting from the plant’s base and make wisteria maintenance more challenging.

Can wisteria and roses coexist in a garden?

Nothing is more beautiful than a wisteria vine in bloom in the spring. The hanging vines are covered in long, pendulous clusters of pea-like flowers in delicate pastel colors. The blooms grow in huge clusters and have a strong fragrance. Except for a few reblooming flowers in the late summer, the floral display unfortunately only lasts a few weeks before it is over for the year. Wisteria, though, serves additional purposes. As long as it is grown on a stable structure, the quick-growing vine can swiftly grow in a counterclockwise direction and provide a superb screen and cover for a pergola. Simply keep it clipped or it will take over the entire planet. Compared to Chinese species, Japanese wisteria is more resistant to winter weather.

Wisteria may grow in numerous locations around our region because it is hardy in zone 4’s warmer regions. It might thrive and endure in New England’s colder regions, but it might not consistently blossom each spring. Purchase plants from a nearby garden center, then plant them in well-drained, compost-amended soil in the summer or in the spring after all risk of frost has passed. Wisteria does not thrive in dry soils and need full light to regularly flower. Plants should be placed 5 feet apart close to the trellis or posts where they will climb.

To keep the soil evenly moist and lessen weed competition, water the soil thoroughly and cover the soil with bark mulch. In the spring, fertilize wisteria with an organic plant food.

The major issues with wisteria are a lack of blossoms and excessive growth. Reduce the size of the wisteria in late winter to encourage better blooms. For further information on how to prune wisteria vines, contact your neighborhood garden center or Master Gardener club. To guarantee spring blossoms, grow branded kinds that can withstand your climate. It could take a seedling many years to reach the blossoming stage. Grow the vine on a sturdy pole or structure because it can become very heavy as it ages. Various insects and diseases may harm the leaves, but none of them pose a serious threat. In our area, wisteria has the potential to spread. Deadhead to stop the seeds from germinating and growing.

Wisteria can be grown up a fence, pillar, arbor, or pergola. It works well as a shade structure’s cover. It should be planted in the back of a perennial border, behind perennial roses, hydrangea, and bee balm. Wisteria can be encouraged to grow up an old tree to make it appear to be growing again.

A white flowering cultivar is called “Alba.” A pinkish-white cultivar with a powerful scent is called “Rosea.” The blue cultivar “Lavender Falls” has a pleasant scent and quickly blooms again. The Kentucky wisteria variety known as “Blue Moon” (W. macrostachya) is more hardy than other kinds and is less aggressive than the Japanese wisteria.

Which vines coexist successfully?

7 Plant Combinations for a Stunning Landscape that Climb

  • Roses that climb and Jackman’s clematis.
  • Sweet Rocket and honeysuckle.
  • Golden Hop with ‘Polish Spirit’ Clematis
  • Morning glory with Black-Eyed Susan.
  • cucumbers and pole beans
  • both Moonlight Hydrangea and Chinese Virginia Creeper.
  • Rubens’ Wisteria with Clematis.

Is a trellis necessary for wisteria?

Wisterias thrive in full light, fertile soil, and both. Of the 10 species, three are grown the most frequently: Wisteria brachybotrys, Wisteria sinensis, and Wisteria floribunda, which are native to China, Japan, and the eastern United States (silky wisteria). All three species have significant growth rates and can extend out to a maximum of 20 meters (66 feet) against a wall or around 10 meters (33 feet) in trees. Wisteria can also be trained to grow as a free-standing standard in a big container or border.

Wisterias for pergolas and arches

The Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) is best exhibited hanging down from a garden structure like a pergola or arch since it has the longest flower sprays (or racemes) of all the species. They entwine in a clockwise motion while simultaneously bearing blooms and leaves. Lilac blue blooms and racemes as long as 1.2 meters (4 feet) are produced by Wisteria floribunda f. multijuga AGM in the early summer.

Wisterias for walls

Wisteria sinensis, often known as Chinese wisteria, blooms in the springtime before the leaves do. For example, Wisteria sinensis ‘Amethyst’ AGM has violet blue blooms with a reddish flush produced in dense racemes to 30cm (1ft) long in late spring or early summer. They twine anticlockwise and the racemes are shorter so they are best presented against a wall.

Silky wisteria (Wisteria brachybotrys), which can be grown against walls or on pergolas, with downy leaves and small racemes of 10-15cm (4-6in). White flowers with center yellow markings, a strong perfume, and 10-15 cm tall sprays of wisteria brachybotrys f. albiflora ‘Shiro-kapitan’ AGM bloom in the spring and early summer.

If you want to cultivate a wisteria in a big container

It is best to choose Wisteria fructens ‘Amethyst Falls’ because of its compact habit and rich clusters of lilac-blue blooms.

Always choose a wisteria that has been developed from cuttings or by grafting when purchasing one because seed-raised wisterias flower less consistently and take longer to bloom. The graft union should be seen as a swelling close to the stem’s base. Unlike species, named cultivars are virtually always grafted. Purchase your wisteria in flower or go with a specific cultivar to avoid disappointment.

Wisterias are offered for sale as container-grown plants at garden centers and online, and you can use the RHS Find a Plant tool to locate particular cultivars.

Wisteria should ideally be planted between October and April. Wisterias grown in containers can be planted at any time of the year, but fall and winter are the easiest times to maintain. Give them healthy, well-drained soil to plant in.

Wisterias bloom best in full sun, so pick a wall or pergola that faces south or west. Although blossoming will be diminished, they will still grow in light shade.

Wisterias are robust climbers that can grow to a height and width of more than 10 meters (33 feet). You’ll need to give support in the form of wires, trellises, or outside buildings like pergolas or arches against a wall. Wisteria can also be grown up a support or taught up a tree to create a standard. A wisteria can be grown in a border or container by being trained into a standard, which reduces its vigor.

If you want to grow your wisteria in a container, you’ll need a sizable one that is at least 45 cm (18 in) in diameter and is filled with potting soil with a loam basis, like John Innes No. 3.

Feeding

Use Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone on your wisteria in the spring at the suggested rate listed on the packet. Additionally, apply sulphate of potash at a rate of 20g per sq m (1/2 oz per sq yard) on sandy soils (which have low potassium levels). Fertilizers for flowering shrubs or roses are another option.

Feed wisteria in containers using Miracle-Gro, Phostrogen, or another comparable flowering plant food. A different option is to add controlled-release fertilizer to the compost.

Although wisteria has a reputation for being challenging to prune, this is untrue. Once you’ve made it a habit to prune your wisteria twice a year, you should be rewarded with a pleasing flower show.

When you prune regularly, you reduce the excessive, whippy growth from July and August to five to six leaves, or roughly 30 cm (1ft). This increases the possibility of blossom buds budding and permits the wood to ripen. Then, in February, trim these shoots even more to two or three buds, or around 10 cm (4 in), to tidy up the plant before the growing season starts and make it possible to observe the new flowers.

When your juvenile wisteria has completely covered a wall or other garden structure, start the routine pruning to promote flowering.

Small gardens benefit greatly from the training of wisteria as a free-standing standard in a border or container.

Wisteria can be trained to ascend into a tiny tree’s canopy, however doing so could eventually harm the tree. Pruning will be challenging if the plant develops into a huge tree, and a dense leaf canopy will affect flowering.

Increase your wisteria stocks by layering in the summer, taking softwood cuttings in the spring to mid-summer, or taking hardwood cuttings in the winter since seed-raised wisteria can take up to 20 years to flower.

Wisteria is typically propagated via grafting in professional nurseries, however layering is the simplest and most dependable technique for home gardeners.

Established wisteria can produce hanging, bean-like seedpods after a lengthy summer. While wisteria plants grown from seeds are typically of inferior quality, you might want to try growing wisteria yourself.

  • After the leaves have fallen, gather the seedpods and let them ripen in an open tray.
  • When the seed is ready, twist open the pod and sow it 2 cm (3/4 in) deep in seed compost.
  • Before planting if the seed is dry, soak it for 24 hours.

See our commonly asked questions page for a summary of wisteria issues.

Poor flowering

Poor flowering is the most frequent issue for backyard gardeners, and it can be brought on by a variety of factors, such as:

  • Young plants can take up to 20 years to flower, so acquire a plant that is already in bloom or go with a certain cultivar because they are typically grafted to avoid disappointment.
  • Examine your pruning methods and timing because early and midsummer trimming will prevent the growth of flowers the next year.
  • Wisteria flowers best in broad light; deep shadow produces few, if any, flowers.
  • Water your wisteria during periods of drought from July to September because a lack of water during this time will influence the development of flower buds the next year.
  • Flower buds may drop before opening as a result of spring frosts, which can harm or deform growing flowers.
  • Applying sulphate of potash in the spring will encourage bloom production for the next year in soils that may lack potassium.
  • The damage caused by pigeons or mice can be identified by torn petals or distinctive teeth marks.

Other problems

A mature, seemingly robust wisteria will occasionally pass away and be replaced by a new, healthy branch emerging from the ground. Failure of the wisteria graft may be the reason of this.

Wisteria is sensitive to both of the fungi that cause phytophthora root rot and honey fungus, which are less frequent causes of failure.

Unusual brown blotches and marks on the leaves, typically with a yellow edge, may be a sign that a fungus has infected them. Viruses can also harm wisteria and powdery mildew.

Infestations of scale and, less frequently, wisteria scale can affect wisterias.

While we hope this information may be useful to you, we always advise reading the labels on your plants that provide care instructions.

How can wisteria be kept in check?

Pruning wisteria twice a year is the best approach to prevent it from growing out of control. After the flowers have faded in the early to mid-summer and when the shoots from this year’s growth begin to look untidy, the first pruning should be done. The goal is to remove undesired shoots or suckers and to keep new development close to the main vine as follows:

  • Trim fresh growth shoots to a length of 6 inches.
  • Suckers at the roots should be removed.
  • Cut off any sprouts that the vine’s main support structure doesn’t require.

Since flowers only appear on one-year-old growth, this pruning strategy not only keeps the vine in a tight shape but also enables the blooms to be seen the following year.

Can two climbers be grown together?

The majority of gardens have a few climbing plants that decorate home walls or lessen the impact of meters of wooden fencing. However, if you combine different plants, there are many creative ways to use climbers to provide additional color for a longer period of time. In this blog, I look at a few alternative approaches of using climbing plants to add additional color and happiness to your landscape.

If climbers are scrambling up among bushes and trees rather than being isolated on wires or trellises, it could seem more difficult to take care of them. However, if you make a clever choice, you can combine two different flowering plants in the same area or add summer flowers to an evergreen shrub that offers structure in the winter (and amaze your friends with your incredible flowering conifer!).

Clematis through Rhododendron, a Rose growing into an apple tree’s canopy, or annual climbers like Sweetpeas or Nasturtiums scrambling over a shrub developed for colored foliage are all excellent combinations. How about orange-red Nasturtiums that stand out against a Cotinus with purple leaves? If you have the courage!

Additionally, you can continue using climbers that cling to man-made structures like walls, fences, pergolas, and obelisks while planting two distinct plants that will grow together. Once more, this presents the chance to extend the flowering season by using a late-bloomer or a climber with stunning fall foliage, such an ornamental vine planted over wisteria.

Combine two plants that flower at the same time to create a complementary or contrasting color scheme for a double dose of color, albeit just once a year. If you mix a rose with a sizable summer-blooming clematis, two of the most well-liked climbers reach a new level of popularity.

Finally, you can add an annual climber to grow through a perennial evergreen climber, like Morning Glory supported by Trachelospermum, in a similar manner to decorate evergreen bushes. While the latter has delicate white blossoms that have a lovely aroma, the former offers spectacular flowers.

Plant the two specimens at least 60 cm apart to give them a chance to grow roots without competing with one another for water. A trellis can have two climbers planted at the opposing ends that eventually meet in the middle. The best place to plant a climber if you want it to grow through a tree or shrub is away from the trunk and directly into the lowest branches. Both plants will remain healthy with a yearly dose of fertilizer and a mulch of compost or other well-rotted organic material.

When combining two climbers, the easiest option in terms of maintenance is to choose two plants that can be pruned simultaneously so that you don’t have to struggle to untangle stems that are entwined with one another. It makes pruning easier if the plants have quite diverse stems so that it is clear what you are eliminating with each cut if you need to prune an early flowerer after the flowers fade while its partner is still bearing buds for a later show.

When removing the leftovers of annuals from a permanent climber that you intend to preserve, caution is required. If the annual is tightly twined around the stems of the supporting plant, pulling from the base of the stalks can bring both plants down at once.