Is Wisteria Sinensis Evergreen

Since the true wisteria is deciduous, its leaves fall off over the winter. It does, however, have a near relative called Evergreen Wisteria, which is deciduous in certain areas and evergreen in others.

True Wisteria species that are frequently cultivated in gardens are:

  • Mandarin wisteria (Wisteria sinensis)
  • Asian Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)
  • Wisteria Americana (Wisteria frutescens)
  • Western Wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya)

Although it is not a member of the Wisteria genus, Evergreen Wisteria—also known as Summer Wisteria—is related to it. It belongs to the Millettieae tribe of the Fabaceae (pea) family, just like Wisteria. Evergreen Wisteria is more commonly referred to as Millettia reticulata or Callerya reticulata, while botanists debate on its exact nomenclature. In most temperate climes, it is deciduous; but, in warmer areas (zones 9 and 10 in the US), it is evergreen.

Types of wisteria:

There are two varieties of wisteria: Asian and American. Although aggressive growers, Asian wisterias are well-known for their stunning blossoms. American wisterias are less aggressive and still produce beautiful blossoms. Compare the most popular wisteria varieties.

Flower color:

Wisteria comes in a range of colors, such as white, pink, and blue tones, in addition to the well-known purple blossoms. If you believe you have seen a yellow wisteria flower, it was probably a golden chain tree (Laburnum).


Wisterias are deciduous, which means that when the weather becomes chilly in the fall, they lose their leaves. The misunderstanding is occasionally brought on by a different vine known as evergreen wisteria (Millettia reticulata).

Avoid planting aggressive wisterias close to your home as they can cause damage and have even been known to destroy buildings.

Wisterias can be grown in full sun or partial shade, but to promote healthy bloom development, make sure the vines get at least six hours of direct sunlight everyday. If you reside in a colder area, pick a planting location that is protected because a heavy spring frost can harm the flower buds.

Create a planting hole that is the same depth as the plant and twice as wide, then level the plant with the soil surface. Because the vines will soon fill in, you should space your plants at least 10 to 15 feet apart along the support structure.

Wisterias don’t need much care once they are planted to promote healthy growth. Water frequently over the first year until the roots take hold.

After planting, wisterias could take some time to come out of dormancy and might not start to leaf until early summer. They will leaf out at the regular time the following spring, but don’t be surprised if they don’t bloom. Wisterias take three to five years to reach full maturity and may not start blooming until then.

Wisterias grow quickly and can reach heights of up to 10 feet in in one growing season. That works out well if you need to quickly cover a fence or pergola but don’t want the vines to take over your landscape. Regular pruning (once in the summer and once in the winter) not only controls wisteria’s growth but also encourages more robust flowering by creating a framework of horizontal branches and causing spurs to grow at regular intervals.

Cut back the current year’s growth to five or six leaves in July or August, or roughly two months after the plant flowers, to get rid of stray shoots and make short branches that will produce flowers the following year. Summer pruning needs to be done more frequently. Re-prune the plant in January or February while it is dormant by removing two or three buds from the growth from the previous year.

The first few years of wisteria’s growth are crucial for creating the desired framework for the plant’s development. As soon as your wisteria begins to grow, start connecting particular lateral shoots to its support structure. You should also cut down any extra growth. An aggressive pruning may be required on elder plants to promote the growth of new branches. Cut down aging branches to the main primary stem to accomplish this. The spaces will soon be filled with new side branches that can be connected back into the support structure.

Visit the Royal Horticultural Society to view a video on how to prune wisteria vines properly.

What does wisteria that is evergreen look like?

Both rabbits and chickens are considered to be animals, don’t you think? Evergreen Wisteria is neither a genuine wisteria and neither is it evergreen. Even though both Wisteria sinensis and Evergreen Wisteria belong to the same plant family called legumes and have big purple blossoms that remind me of grapes, we all recognize Wisteria sinensis as the Chinese Wisteria vine. Here’s why I prefer advising my clients to choose the Evergreen Wisteria over the Chinese Wisteria:

Features of the plant

Depending on the environment, evergreen wisteria can reach heights of 15 to 30 feet and can easily trained on any garden building. If it gets cold enough, the foliage is deciduous (drops in winter) and dark green. Since they are perennials, each spring they will produce fresh growth. The Chinese Wisteria only blooms in the spring, unlike the deep purple blossoms, which appear in the middle of summer. Another obvious distinction between Evergreen Wisteria and Chinese Wisteria is how it grows. Chinese wisteria tends to run into the lawn or garden, whereas Evergreen wisteria has a more controlled habit, clumps better, and doesn’t do that. In addition, the Evergreen has substantially fuller foliage than the Chinese Wisteria.

The Evergreen Wisteria has pea-like blooms that are 6–8 inches long and are smaller than those on the regular vine. When many plants have withered due to the heat, they bloom in the middle to late summer, which is nice. The beautiful royal purple blossoms stand out against the greenery. These flowers have AMAZING FLAVOR! Anyone and everyone will be drawn to this region of your garden by the sweet, alluring smell. They can survive in a variety of soil and moisture conditions. If pets consume the vine’s seeds or bark, they become harmful to them.

Plant Care

Evergreen wisteria should be planted in well-drained soil in a sunny location. If it isn’t raining, they prefer routine watering. Getting rid of spent blooms, or deadheading, will encourage more active flowering. A liquid fertilizer with a bloom-booster is ideal for fertilizing Evergreen Wisteria, while granular slow release fertilizer is are enough. When they are being cut back for the upcoming growth season in late winter or early spring, prune.


The Evergreen Wisteria can be trained to grow on pergolas, fences, trellises, arbors, and pretty much anything else in your yard! They can be used to add some seclusion or to cover up ugly areas like an air conditioner. They are excellent veggie garden companion plants. They fix nitrogen, a vital component of soil, in the ground. Your favorite fresh vegetables are a great addition to an edible space like a raised or rowed garden because this will also benefit the surrounding plants.

I’ve spent a lot of time teaching Evergreen Wisteria how to grow on arbors for both commercial and customer use. Truly a labor of love, it is worth every bit of effort since the opulent beauty and scent in your favorite garden seating area are the reward.

Wisteria trees can endure the winter.

Wisteria (Wisteria spp.) plants have long pendants of fragrant purple or white flowers that dangle in a weeping manner. They are a favorite flower for climbing over arbors, training up a wall, or growing as a conventional tree. When grown, wisteria can readily withstand harsh winters and flourishes in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. However, young wisteria plants might not be able to withstand the first winter after planting without some protection from frost and chilly winds.

In the fall, water the wisteria plant frequently to maintain moist but not soggy soil. The plants may move nutrients from the soil and store them for the winter by receiving regular watering in the fall. When freezing conditions are predicted, water plants liberally to prevent desiccation of the leaves when the temperatures cause the moisture inside to freeze, leaving frost on the leaves.

To protect the vine’s roots from the cold throughout the winter, cover the base with a 4-inch layer of organic mulch. Anything from crushed bark mulch to dried leaves can be used. To ensure the entire root ball is insulated, keep the mulch a few inches away from the vine and cover a space that is at least 2 feet in diameter.

Wrap the main stem of the wisteria plant with a section of thin-walled plastic tubing. With a razor knife, cut the tubing lengthwise, then pry it open to allow it to fit around the wisteria stem. The plastic tubing is less expensive than using frost cloth or leftover fabric, which are typically far larger than what is required for the stem.

Create a temporary walled enclosure to safeguard the plant. Using a reciprocating saw, extend four 2-by-2-inch wooden posts by about 24 inches beyond the height of the wisteria. Using a hammer, pound the four stakes about 18 inches into the ground. Place the stakes evenly spaced around the plant, 18 inches from the stem.

Frost cloth, burlap, or another type of fabric can be used to cover the stakes. Without letting air escape around the plant’s base, the cloth must be big enough to completely cover the structure. If you require more than one piece of cloth, make sure the ends are at least six inches apart. Set up some bricks or rocks on the ground to hold the extra length in place. The inside temperature of the building stays higher than the outside temperature thanks to the heat that is radiated from the ground surrounding the plant and is trapped by the frost cloth or fabric.

Is evergreen wisteria a problem plant?

In contrast to the popular Chinese Wisteria, the evergreen variety can remain evergreen in mild winter climates (zones 9–10) but is typically deciduous in other regions. Developed plants will consistently bloom from late spring to fall.

Do wisteria leaves fall off in the winter?

Wisteria leaves frequently turn yellow, despite the fact that illnesses rarely affect them.

Do not be alarmed if this occurs in the fall; wisteria lose their leaves in the winter.

But if leaves become yellow or lose their color in the summer, chlorosis is likely to be the cause and is brought on by the soil.

  • Wisteria struggles in soil that is very chalky, thick, or clay.
  • Put some iron sulfate in the ground.

Wisteria that never loses its leaves

It’s normal to fear that something could be amiss when one of your plants starts to turn yellow or lose its leaves. Your plant may, however, just be deciduous and losing its leaves in order to prepare for the winter. What then is going on with Wisteria? Is it deciduous or evergreen?

Wisteria comes in a variety of types, including the Chinese, Japanese, American, and Kentucky Wisteria. All of these species are deciduous, meaning that their leaves fall off in the winter. In warm areas, a similarly related plant called Evergreen Wisteria or Summer Wisteria is evergreen. Evergreen Wisteria is not actually a wisteria, despite its name, and it is not always green.

The real Wisteria and Evergreen Wisteria behave differently in the fall and winter because one is deciduous and the other is (sometimes) evergreen. Which types of Wisteria are deciduous, what it means to be evergreen versus deciduous, and when to trim deciduous and evergreen Wisteria are all covered in this article.

Are wisteria leaves yellow in the fall?

The gorgeous climbing vine wisteria features clusters of fragrant, hanging white to purple blossoms. They give fences, trellises, walls, and other structures dramatic impact where the heavy, woody vines may trail or scramble. Chinese and Japanese variants are the two most popular. Although they are both reasonably resilient vines, their lacy leaves change color and drop off in the fall. This natural occurrence or a pest, disease, or social issue could be the cause of a wisteria with yellow leaves. Investigate the reason why wisteria leaves become yellow and determine what, if anything, needs to be done to address the problem.

How are evergreen wisterias trained?

Wisteria vines, which are evergreen, can grow in any type of soil as long as it is well-drained and can tolerate most soil pHs. After the last frost, directly sow seeds in the spring or the fall. It can be grown on a range of structures, such as trellises, arbors, and fences.

The stems of evergreen wisteria twine around vertical supports because it is a twining vine. This implies that if you want your vines to climb up or along fences or trellises, you might need to give it a little assistance in finding its way.

While vines’ continual upward growth might be fantastic for towering structures like arbors, they can seem sparse at the base of fences and trellises without any work on your side. By weaving new shoots sideways through the gaps in your fence or trellis, you can train your evergreen wisteria. As the vine spreads, keep doing that. Trim some of the lower stems of your evergreen wisteria once it has reached the top of the fence or trellis to encourage fresh growth.

To keep your vine in check, prune it occasionally. Your vine will continue to blossom if you deadhead (remove spent flowers).

Maintain the soil moist and, if necessary, give your vine two to three applications of granular fertilizer during the growing season to keep it flourishing. Although there aren’t many pest issues with this plant, aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies can still harm your vines, so keep an eye out for any unwelcome guests.

Any landscape will benefit from the rich summer color and climbing visual appeal provided by evergreen wisteria.

Exists a wisteria that isn’t invasive?

Compact native wisteria blossoms can be seen twining on a Charleston, South Carolina, home’s gate.

Have you fought the invasive wisteria for half your life? Don’t give up; it has 200 years to catch up. While Wisteria floribunda was brought to the country in the 1830s, Wisteria sinensis arrived in America in 1816. “Floribunda is a fitting term for this invasive species as it is both floral and monstrously prolific. They were both brought here by well-meaning plant explorers from China and Japan, respectively. Do you hear a knock on your door? Surprise! A wisteria runner is poised to eat your banister. Your refrigerator just opened? Oh, it’s just a hungry wisteria sucker, I see. That garden gate made of iron? snapped by our pal floribunda like a chicken bone.

Wisteria that spreads quickly is perfect in today’s world of immediate pleasure. It continues to expand without stopping. After a harsh winter, the heady aroma and profusion of purple blossoms are a wonderful sign of spring. So go ahead and plant some as long as you have machete-wielding gardening security on hand constantly and/or don’t need to sleep at night. There is a wonderful alternative for those of us who cannot afford a horticultural army.

A calmer option to Asian wisteria that is native to the Southeast of the United States is Wisteria frutescens. We enquired further about this underappreciated natural gem from Peggy Cornett, the Monticello’s plant curator. She claims that by the year 1780, this hardy vine was being grown in America. It was dubbed the “Carolina Kidney Bean Tree” and was grown by Lady Jean Skipwith, a passionate gardener and plantswoman in the late eighteenth century, in her garden at Prestwould in rural south-central Virginia. In honor of his friend and mentor Caspar Wistar (1761–1818), a Philadelphia physician and paleontologist, botanist Thomas Nuttall gave the genus “wisteria” his name. However, the early nineteenth century’s introduction of the bloom-heavy Chinese and Japanese types overwhelmed interest in native wisteria.

It’s simple to identify those enlightened souls who have embraced native wisteria in G&G’s Charleston, South Carolina, headquarters. With shorter, more compact clusters of dark purple blossoms, Wisteria frutescens blooms reach their best in late spring and early summer, frequently after the Asian variety starts to fade. One such instance is the property on Tradd Street where the frutescens seen above was taken; a young vine is clinging to the iron gate. Unlike invasive wisteria, which can occasionally take up to 10 years to bloom, native wisteria develops quickly and typically blooms after the first year. Wisteria frutescens is the creeper for you if you are inspired to have wisteria in your landscaping but also want to prevent your house from being pulled off its foundation.