Twice a year, in January or February and again in July or August, wisteria is pruned. When this fast-growing climber is pruned in the summer, the long, whippy tendrils are trimmed back to five or six leaves.
The goal is to both limit the wisteria’s growth—which has a propensity to go out of control and hide behind gutters and downpipes or into roof spaces—and to direct the plant’s energy into flowering rather than leafy development.
How do I prune wisteria in winter?
The plant’s energy is further focused on developing flower-bearing spurs as a result of the pruning that is done now, in January or February. You will find that pruning is lot easier than it sounds because the plant is dormant and without leaves, which makes it simple to see what you are doing.
At this time of year, all that has to be done is to work over the climber and prune the same growths even more, this time down to two or three buds.
When you’re done, you’ll have a climber covered in stubby little spurs that are all covered in buds that will bloom in the late spring. The blossoms won’t be hidden by a tangle of leafy branches thanks to this severe pruning.
If branches are blocking doors or windows or there is old or dead vegetation on older plants, more drastic pruning may be required. Always prune just above a robust young shoot lower down and trim stems down to a major branch with the goal of leaving a frame of stems that are evenly spaced apart and cover the required area. If required, tie in more stems to close gaps.
Wisteria sinensis ‘Prolific’ is a good choice as a starter plant if you don’t already have a wisteria and want one. Try Burncoose Nurseries or Peter Beales, both of which have a large selection.
Should I trim my wisteria throughout the winter?
A wisteria can still stretch its arms quite far in the remaining growing months, even after cutting in the early summer. It is advisable to prune it once more in the late winter to prevent it from spreading out of control. Without the leaves, it is simple to identify the branches that are necessary to the main vine and to cut back on unnecessary development.
- Trim all lateral branches from the main trunk, including those you pruned in the summer, to a length of 3-5 buds. By doing this, the energy will be focused on new flowers rather than new vegetation.
- Once more, you can prune away any crowded or unruly branches that stray from the vine’s primary shape.
How should I trim wisteria in the winter?
Winter pruning: Cut summer-pruned shoots even shorter in January or February. Trim them back to 2 to 3 buds or 2.55 cm (12 in) of older wood. Summer pruning: Remove any new shoots that are unnecessary or that have grown in congested locations.
Can you fully prune the wisteria?
If the wisteria plant has a lot of dry, old branches and appears to be highly out of shape, it can be severely pruned back.
In order to renovate the plant, it is occasionally necessary to remove every branch, all the way to the main stem or even to the ground. Your wisterias will be inspired to grow new, robust branches as a result of this severe trimming.
McKenzie cautions that while the growth will be of much superior quality, the wisteria may not blossom for two or three years following a hard cut back.
A new pergola or arch can be created by “hard pruning” in addition to retraining the plant.
What should wisteria be used for in the winter?
Wisteria (Wisteria spp.) plants have long pendants of fragrant purple or white flowers that dangle in a weeping manner. They are a favorite flower for climbing over arbors, training up a wall, or growing as a conventional tree. When grown, wisteria can readily withstand harsh winters and flourishes in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. However, young wisteria plants might not be able to withstand the first winter after planting without some protection from frost and chilly winds.
In the fall, water the wisteria plant frequently to maintain moist but not soggy soil. The plants may move nutrients from the soil and store them for the winter by receiving regular watering in the fall. When freezing conditions are predicted, water plants liberally to prevent desiccation of the leaves when the temperatures cause the moisture inside to freeze, leaving frost on the leaves.
To protect the vine’s roots from the cold throughout the winter, cover the base with a 4-inch layer of organic mulch. Anything from crushed bark mulch to dried leaves can be used. To ensure the entire root ball is insulated, keep the mulch a few inches away from the vine and cover a space that is at least 2 feet in diameter.
Wrap the main stem of the wisteria plant with a section of thin-walled plastic tubing. With a razor knife, cut the tubing lengthwise, then pry it open to allow it to fit around the wisteria stem. The plastic tubing is less expensive than using frost cloth or leftover fabric, which are typically far larger than what is required for the stem.
Build a temporary protective structure around the plant. Using a reciprocating saw, extend four 2-by-2-inch wooden posts by about 24 inches beyond the height of the wisteria. Using a hammer, pound the four stakes about 18 inches into the ground. Place the stakes evenly spaced around the plant, 18 inches from the stem.
Frost cloth, burlap, or another type of fabric can be used to cover the stakes. Without letting air escape around the plant’s base, the cloth must be big enough to completely cover the structure. If you require more than one piece of cloth, make sure the ends are at least six inches apart. Set up some bricks or rocks on the ground to hold the extra length in place. The inside temperature of the building stays higher than the outside temperature thanks to the heat that is radiated from the ground surrounding the plant and is trapped by the frost cloth or fabric.
How does a wisteria look in the colder months?
Don’t panic if your wisteria begins to drop its leaves in the fall. Deciduous wisteria predominates. Winter doesn’t keep it green, but the leaves will come back in the spring.
Before dropping their leaves, some wisteria varieties put on a show of fall color as the leaves turn yellow or gold. If it’s happening in the fall, there’s typically nothing to worry about unless you’re also observing other symptoms like an insect infestation. Yellowing and dropping leaves can be signals of disease and other problems.
While Evergreen Wisteria (Millettia reticulata) is more challenging to grow, all true Wisteria are deciduous. Your Evergreen Wisteria will most likely maintain its leaves throughout the year if you have hot summers and brief, mild winters with little below freezing. This is zone 9b and higher in the US, which includes a portion of California and Arizona as well as the southern half of Florida and Texas.
Evergreen Wisteria is deciduous like regular Wisteria in more temperate regions, so you may anticipate it to go dormant for the winter and sprout new leaves in the spring. You probably won’t be able to cultivate Evergreen Wisteria in a location that is colder than USDA zone 8 because even deciduous habit cannot shield it from prolonged, bitterly cold winters.
Why didn’t the wisteria in my yard bloom this year?
Too much nitrogen is most likely the cause of your wisteria’s failure to blossom. Too much nitrogen will cause wisteria plants to generate a lot of foliage but very few, if any, flowers.
The habitat in which wisteria is growing is another cause of blooming issues. When wisteria vines are stressed, they may not flower but instead sprout leaves in the absence of full sun or sufficient drainage.
Can wisteria be pruned in November?
Wisteria can be grown against a house wall or another robust building, like a sturdy pergola. Wisteria can be grown in a container, but only if done so as a conventional tree and with regular trimming to keep its shape. This is a highly labor-intensive option.
How to plant wisteria
Wisteria can be planted in spring or fall. Plant at the same level as it was in the original pot and water in thoroughly after thoroughly preparing the soil to guarantee a proper root run. Like an espalier fruit tree, tie the stems to horizontal galvanized wires connected to the wall. Remove all but one stem if it is climbing a pergola, and tie this stem to the post.
How to plant wisteria in a pot
Wisterias can be planted in pots, but because they are hungry plants, you will need to feed them frequently. Choose this option only if you’re training your wisteria to be a standard. Use a quality tree and shrub compost and the biggest pot you can fit. Plant at the same height as it was in the first pot and give it plenty of water.
How to care for wisteria
The wisteria plant is ravenous. During the growing season, fertilize once a month with a high potash fertilizer to promote greater flower blooming. Weekly wisteria fertilizer and watering. Use organic mulch in the fall, such as well-rotted horse dung or homemade compost, to protect your plants.
How and when to prune wisteria
Wisteria should be pruned twice a year in August and February. Focus on integrating the plant into the support throughout the first few years. This entails cutting back side shoots to five buds in early August, training in strong side shoots, and removing very low branches.
How to prune wisteria in summer
Wisteria that is pruned in the summer will produce short spurs that will transport the spring blossoms.
- Cut the long, robust shoots back from the base of the current season’s growth to a few buds.
- Choose a few sturdy shoots from young plants (less than three years old) to tie to wires or a trellis.
- Simply cut back side shoots on older wisterias to the base of your strong shoots.
Expert David Hurrion demonstrates how to prune wisteria in the summer in this little video. He demonstrates which stems to cut and how much to remove precisely:
How to prune wisteria in winter
By pruning both in winter and in the summer, you can promote the growth of the short spurs that bear the spring blooms. Anytime between late October and March is the dormant season, so do this.
- Connect fresh growth to the main structure to increase its support
- Cut back the remaining long stems sharply.
David Hurrion demonstrates how to control robust, leafy growth so it doesn’t cover budding flower buds in this video on winter-pruning wisteria:
How to propagate wisteria
Few gardeners cultivate wisteria; most opt to purchase a plant instead because it can take up to 20 years for a wisteria to bloom from a cutting. However, take softwood cuttings in the middle of April if you’re up for a battle.
- Young stems should be cut into lengths and trimmed to 10 cm, just below a leaf joint.
- Leave roughly four leaves at the top of each cutting after removing the lower ones.
- Fill pots with cutting compost, then fill them with water and let the water drain.
- Cover the cuttings with a clear plastic bag after inserting them into the pots so the leaves don’t contact.
- Make sure the cuttings are kept moist by keeping them in a well-lit area.
- Remove the bag and pot after growth is visible.
Growing wisteria: problem solving
Lack of blossoms is the most frequent issue wisteria gardeners encounter. Expecting blooms before the plant is four years old may be impractical because wisterias take their time to bloom.
David Hurrion provides tips on where to plant your wisteria, how to prune it, and how to feed it to get the most blossoms here.
Will wisteria damage my foundations?
In the spring, a house covered in wisteria looks magnificent. Can the roots harm your foundations, though? In our Quick Tips video, Catherine Mansley from BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine explains:
Does ancient wood allow wisteria to bloom?
Wisteria produces its flowers buds during the previous growing season (“blooms on old wood”). Those buds were taken out if the plants were clipped from late fall to early spring.
Should wisteria be deadheaded?
Wisteria pruning is relatively simple, but it’s necessary if you don’t want it to spread beyond its designated area each year.
This can happen whenever the plant is dormant, from the moment the leaves have dropped to the conclusion of the winter.
- It’s crucial to just eliminate new growth to promote flowering because flowers grow on the growth from the previous year.
- Trim lateral branches in the winter, leaving only one or two buds.
This is to leave the main branch alone and to prune all of the stems that grow from it.
- Because the fruits of wilted flowers are poisonous, remove them frequently (deadheading).