How To Plant Wisteria From A Cutting

Obtaining the cuttings is the first step in growing wisteria from seed. Wisteria pruning, as previously indicated, can be an excellent source of cuttings, but you can also collect wisteria cuttings from the plant expressly for wisteria plant germination.

It is necessary to cut wisteria from the softwood. The wood in question is still green and lacks a woody bark. There should be at least two sets of leaves on the cutting, which should be 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) long.

Preparing Wisteria Cuttings for Rooting

Remove any sets of leaves discovered on the lower half of the wisteria cutting once you have it. These will be the principal locations where new roots form. The cutting should be trimmed so that the lowest node, which is where the leaves you just removed were, is 1/2 to 1/4 inch (1 to 6 ml) from the bottom. You can remove any flower buds that may be present on the cutting.

Rooting Wisteria Plants

Fill a pot with potting soil that drains properly and has been sufficiently watered. Rooting hormone should be applied to the cutting’s rooting end. Create a hole in the potting soil with a stick or your finger, then insert the wisteria cutting, carefully pressing the earth down around it.

Put some plastic wrap on top of the pot or put the entire pot in a plastic bag to completely enclose it. You might wish to use sticks to prop the plastic away from the cuttings because it is crucial that it not touch the cuts. The plastic aids in retaining humidity, which raises the likelihood that wisteria cuttings will grow successfully.

Put the wisteria cuttings in their pot somewhere where they will get enough of bright, indirect light. When the soil feels dry to the touch, check it periodically and water. Within four to six weeks, the cuttings ought grow have roots.

Knowing how to propagate wisteria properly will make it simple to grow wisteria from cuttings.

Can wisteria cuttings be rooted in water?

Placing Wisteria cuttings in water is one of the most popular methods used by individuals to attempt and root them. It’s challenging for these plants to effectively root with this technique, though. Make sure it’s a softwood cutting if you want to attempt to root your wisteria using water. Your hardwood stems shouldn’t be submerged for an extended amount of time.

Put the base of a softwood cutting into a glass of water to keep it hydrated if you don’t plan to plant it right away. If you’re lucky, if you keep the base of the cutting submerged, it might start to produce roots.

Because wisteria dislikes having damp feet, it thrives in well-drained or even sandy soil. The ideal method for allowing your cutting to take root is to place it in a pot.

How long does it take wisteria cuttings to bloom?

Wisteria can be grown against a house wall or another robust building, like a sturdy pergola. Wisteria can be grown in a container, but only if done so as a conventional tree and with regular trimming to keep its shape. This is a highly labor-intensive option.

How to plant wisteria

Wisteria can be planted in spring or fall. Plant at the same level as it was in the original pot and water in thoroughly after thoroughly preparing the soil to guarantee a proper root run. Like an espalier fruit tree, tie the stems to horizontal galvanized wires connected to the wall. Remove all but one stem if it is climbing a pergola, and tie this stem to the post.

How to plant wisteria in a pot

Wisterias can be planted in pots, but because they are hungry plants, you will need to feed them frequently. Choose this option only if you’re training your wisteria to be a standard. Use a quality tree and shrub compost and the biggest pot you can fit. Plant at the same height as it was in the first pot and give it plenty of water.

How to care for wisteria

The wisteria plant is ravenous. During the growing season, fertilize once a month with a high potash fertilizer to promote greater flower blooming. Weekly wisteria fertilizer and watering. Use organic mulch in the fall, such as well-rotted horse dung or homemade compost, to protect your plants.

How and when to prune wisteria

Wisteria should be pruned twice a year in August and February. Focus on integrating the plant into the support throughout the first few years. This entails cutting back side shoots to five buds in early August, training in strong side shoots, and removing very low branches.

How to prune wisteria in summer

Wisteria that is pruned in the summer will produce short spurs that will transport the spring blossoms.

  • Cut the long, robust shoots back from the base of the current season’s growth to a few buds.
  • Choose a few sturdy shoots from young plants (less than three years old) to tie to wires or a trellis.
  • Simply cut back side shoots on older wisterias to the base of your strong shoots.

Expert David Hurrion demonstrates how to prune wisteria in the summer in this little video. He demonstrates which stems to cut and how much to remove precisely:

How to prune wisteria in winter

By pruning both in winter and in the summer, you can promote the growth of the short spurs that bear the spring blooms. Anytime between late October and March is the dormant season, so do this.

  • Connect fresh growth to the main structure to increase its support
  • Cut back the remaining long stems sharply.

David Hurrion demonstrates how to control robust, leafy growth so it doesn’t cover budding flower buds in this video on winter-pruning wisteria:

How to propagate wisteria

Few gardeners cultivate wisteria; most opt to purchase a plant instead because it can take up to 20 years for a wisteria to bloom from a cutting. However, take softwood cuttings in the middle of April if you’re up for a battle.

  • Young stems should be cut into lengths and trimmed to 10 cm, just below a leaf joint.
  • Leave roughly four leaves at the top of each cutting after removing the lower ones.
  • Fill pots with cutting compost, then fill them with water and let the water drain.
  • Cover the cuttings with a clear plastic bag after inserting them into the pots so the leaves don’t contact.
  • Make sure the cuttings are kept moist by keeping them in a well-lit area.
  • Remove the bag and pot after growth is visible.

Growing wisteria: problem solving

Lack of blossoms is the most frequent issue wisteria gardeners encounter. Expecting blooms before the plant is four years old may be impractical because wisterias take their time to bloom.

David Hurrion provides tips on where to plant your wisteria, how to prune it, and how to feed it to get the most blossoms here.

Will wisteria damage my foundations?

In the spring, a house covered in wisteria looks magnificent. Can the roots harm your foundations, though? In our Quick Tips video, Catherine Mansley from BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine explains:

How do you begin with wisteria?

I was handed a cutting of my neighbor’s gorgeous wisteria vine to plant on our freshly built arbor, but I have no idea how to take a decent cutting without harming their vine.

Verify that this is the ideal vine for your circumstances. Although most oriental wisterias are hardy in zones 4 or 5, they are unable to bloom since the cold winter temperatures damage their flower buds.

After establishing itself in 5–7 years, the Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys) does reliably bloom in zones 4 and 5. These plants can be extremely invasive in warmer climates, need regular, severe pruning to keep them under control.

Make sure you have ample room and a sturdy support for this out-of-control grower. By taking six-inch cuttings in June or July, you can start new plants. In moist vermiculite, sand, or a well-drained potting mix, the cutting should be rooted. Next to the arbor, plant rooted cuttings directly in the ground. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not saturated. As the plant becomes established, watering frequency should be decreased.

Alternately, grow the rooted cuttings in a container for a season or two until a more substantial root system appears. Gardeners in the north should bury the pot throughout the winter in a protected area.

Alternately, stack the vine to boost your chances of success. Take one of the trellis’s stems out with care. 9 inches below the growing tip, notch the stem. Leave the top 6 inches of the stem above the ground and bury the remaining section. It can be rooted in the soil around it or in a well-drained soil container placed adjacent to the parent plant. During the process of rooting, keep the stem connected to the parent plant. While the buried stem develops its own root system over the summer, keep the soil moist. The parent vine should be severed from the freshly rooted plant. The newly rooted vine can be relocated to a new spot.

Is honey a suitable hormone for rooting?

Although there are numerous synthetic rooting hormones, such as liquids, powders, and gels, that can encourage rapid root growth in cuttings, if you want a natural, chemical-free alternative or you’re an organic gardener, you should surely take into account honey as a natural rooting stimulant.

Because it possesses anti-bacterial and anti-fungal qualities, honey functions well as a natural rooting hormone.

Can you cut a piece of wisteria?

Wisteria (Wisteria spp.) can be trained as a tiny tree or let to climb over a trellis or arbor structure, but regardless of the plant’s form, they are easily identified by their dripping cascades of purple blossoms. In the spring through mid-summer or in the winter, you can take a clipping from an existing wisteria and grow it as a new plant in your yard. Cutting-based propagation is less expensive than purchasing new plants from nurseries, but you first need to root the wisteria start. Plant hardiness zones 4 through 9 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture support the growth of wisteria.

Wisteria can it grow in pots?

The wisteria vine has huge, stunning blossoms that, in the spring, smell quite delicious. The two most common varieties of wisteria plants are Japanese and Chinese varieties. The optimal conditions for this shrub-vine marvel are full sunlight and a garden pot or other container. It is very advised to start growing wisteria in a smaller pot and then ultimately re-pot it into a much larger planter when growing it in pots. A high-quality potting mix and sufficient drainage will do wonders for the soil.

When should wisteria be planted?

Wisterias thrive in full light, fertile soil, and both. Of the 10 species, three are grown the most frequently: Wisteria brachybotrys, Wisteria sinensis, and Wisteria floribunda, which are native to China, Japan, and the eastern United States (silky wisteria). All three species have significant growth rates and can extend out to a maximum of 20 meters (66 feet) against a wall or around 10 meters (33 feet) in trees. Wisteria can also be trained to grow as a free-standing standard in a big container or border.

Wisterias for pergolas and arches

The Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) is best exhibited hanging down from a garden structure like a pergola or arch since it has the longest flower sprays (or racemes) of all the species. They entwine in a clockwise motion while simultaneously bearing blooms and leaves. Lilac blue blooms and racemes as long as 1.2 meters (4 feet) are produced by Wisteria floribunda f. multijuga AGM in the early summer.

Wisterias for walls

Wisteria sinensis, often known as Chinese wisteria, blooms in the springtime before the leaves do. For example, Wisteria sinensis ‘Amethyst’ AGM has violet blue blooms with a reddish flush produced in dense racemes to 30cm (1ft) long in late spring or early summer. They twine anticlockwise and the racemes are shorter so they are best presented against a wall.

Silky wisteria (Wisteria brachybotrys), which can be grown against walls or on pergolas, with downy leaves and small racemes of 10-15cm (4-6in). White flowers with center yellow markings, a strong perfume, and 10-15 cm tall sprays of wisteria brachybotrys f. albiflora ‘Shiro-kapitan’ AGM bloom in the spring and early summer.

If you want to cultivate a wisteria in a big container

It is best to choose Wisteria fructens ‘Amethyst Falls’ because of its compact habit and rich clusters of lilac-blue blooms.

Always choose a wisteria that has been developed from cuttings or by grafting when purchasing one because seed-raised wisterias flower less consistently and take longer to bloom. The graft union should be seen as a swelling close to the stem’s base. Unlike species, named cultivars are virtually always grafted. Purchase your wisteria in flower or go with a specific cultivar to avoid disappointment.

Wisterias are offered for sale as container-grown plants at garden centers and online, and you can use the RHS Find a Plant tool to locate particular cultivars.

Wisteria should ideally be planted between October and April. Wisterias grown in containers can be planted at any time of the year, but fall and winter are the easiest times to maintain. Give them healthy, well-drained soil to plant in.

Wisterias bloom best in full sun, so pick a wall or pergola that faces south or west. Although blossoming will be diminished, they will still grow in light shade.

Wisterias are robust climbers that can grow to a height and width of more than 10 meters (33 feet). You’ll need to give support in the form of wires, trellises, or outside buildings like pergolas or arches against a wall. Wisteria can also be grown up a support or taught up a tree to create a standard. A wisteria can be grown in a border or container by being trained into a standard, which reduces its vigor.

If you want to grow your wisteria in a container, you’ll need a sizable one that is at least 45 cm (18 in) in diameter and is filled with potting soil with a loam basis, like John Innes No. 3.

Feeding

Use Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone on your wisteria in the spring at the suggested rate listed on the packet. Additionally, apply sulphate of potash at a rate of 20g per sq m (1/2 oz per sq yard) on sandy soils (which have low potassium levels). Fertilizers for flowering shrubs or roses are another option.

Feed wisteria in containers using Miracle-Gro, Phostrogen, or another comparable flowering plant food. A different option is to add controlled-release fertilizer to the compost.

Although wisteria has a reputation for being challenging to prune, this is untrue. Once you’ve made it a habit to prune your wisteria twice a year, you should be rewarded with a pleasing flower show.

When you prune regularly, you reduce the excessive, whippy growth from July and August to five to six leaves, or roughly 30 cm (1ft). This increases the possibility of blossom buds budding and permits the wood to ripen. Then, in February, trim these shoots even more to two or three buds, or around 10 cm (4 in), to tidy up the plant before the growing season starts and make it possible to observe the new flowers.

When your juvenile wisteria has completely covered a wall or other garden structure, start the routine pruning to promote flowering.

Small gardens benefit greatly from the training of wisteria as a free-standing standard in a border or container.

Wisteria can be trained to ascend into a tiny tree’s canopy, however doing so could eventually harm the tree. Pruning will be challenging if the plant develops into a huge tree, and a dense leaf canopy will affect flowering.

Increase your wisteria stocks by layering in the summer, taking softwood cuttings in the spring to mid-summer, or taking hardwood cuttings in the winter since seed-raised wisteria can take up to 20 years to flower.

Wisteria is typically propagated via grafting in professional nurseries, however layering is the simplest and most dependable technique for home gardeners.

Established wisteria can produce hanging, bean-like seedpods after a lengthy summer. While wisteria plants grown from seeds are typically of inferior quality, you might want to try growing wisteria yourself.

  • After the leaves have fallen, gather the seedpods and let them ripen in an open tray.
  • When the seed is ready, twist open the pod and sow it 2 cm (3/4 in) deep in seed compost.
  • Before planting if the seed is dry, soak it for 24 hours.

See our commonly asked questions page for a summary of wisteria issues.

Poor flowering

Poor flowering is the most frequent issue for backyard gardeners, and it can be brought on by a variety of factors, such as:

  • Young plants can take up to 20 years to flower, so acquire a plant that is already in bloom or go with a certain cultivar because they are typically grafted to avoid disappointment.
  • Examine your pruning methods and timing because early and midsummer trimming will prevent the growth of flowers the next year.
  • Wisteria flowers best in broad light; deep shadow produces few, if any, flowers.
  • Water your wisteria during periods of drought from July to September because a lack of water during this time will influence the development of flower buds the next year.
  • Flower buds may drop before opening as a result of spring frosts, which can harm or deform growing flowers.
  • Applying sulphate of potash in the spring will encourage bloom production for the next year in soils that may lack potassium.
  • The damage caused by pigeons or mice can be identified by torn petals or distinctive teeth marks.

Other problems

A mature, seemingly robust wisteria will occasionally pass away and be replaced by a new, healthy branch emerging from the ground. Failure of the wisteria graft may be the reason of this.

Wisteria is sensitive to both of the fungi that cause phytophthora root rot and honey fungus, which are less frequent causes of failure.

Unusual brown blotches and marks on the leaves, typically with a yellow edge, may be a sign that a fungus has infected them. Viruses can also harm wisteria and powdery mildew.

Infestations of scale and, less frequently, wisteria scale can affect wisterias.

While we hope this information may be useful to you, we always advise reading the labels on your plants that provide care instructions.