Does Wisteria Grow In Montana

With lovely chains of lavender blooms blooming three times a year, this gorgeous vine is one of the hardiest of all wisterias. However, it may become fairly woody and requires plenty of support and full sun.

From mid to late spring, Blue Moon Wisteria is covered in magnificent chains of scented lavender pea-like blooms with powder blue overtones dangling below the branches. It has a coppery-bronze spring emergence for its green deciduous foliage. In the fall, the small, pinnately complex leaves turn yellow.

The multi-stemmed Blue Moon Wisteria is a woody, deciduous vine with a twining and trailing growth pattern. Although its average texture fades into the landscape, it can be effectively adjusted by one or two trees or bushes that are finer or coarser.

A woody vine with a high maintenance requirement, it should only be clipped after flowering to prevent destroying any of the flowers from the current season. It is a fantastic choice for luring hummingbirds to your yard, but deer are less likely to be attracted to it in favor of more appetizing goodies. The following characteristic(s) that may require extra treatment should be known by gardeners;

  • Spreading
  • Hedges/Screening
  • Common Garden Use

When fully grown, Blue Moon Wisteria will reach a height of about 30 feet and a width of 24 inches. It should be underplanted with low-growing facer plants because it is a climbing vine that tends to be lanky near the base. It should be placed close to a fence, trellis, or other landscaping feature so that it can either trail off a wall or slope or be trained to grow upwards on it. It has quick growth potential and a maximum lifespan of 30 years under optimal conditions.

Only direct sunshine should be used to cultivate this woody vine. It thrives in moderate to evenly wet environments, although it cannot stand water. It is not picky about pH or soil type. It has a strong tolerance for urban pollution and can even flourish in densely populated areas. To safeguard it in exposed areas or colder microclimates in the winter, think about spreading a thick layer of mulch all around the root zone. It is important to take precautions when planting this particular variation of a species that is not native to North America because some of its components are harmful to both humans and animals.

In what climate zone may wisteria grow?

It is well known that wisteria take a very long time to bloom. For two to three years after planting, don’t anticipate blossoms. Some readers swear by the following technique to encourage blooming:

  • To cut into part of the roots, take a shovel and drive it 8 to 10 inches into the ground approximately a foot and a half away from the main trunk of the wisteria.
  • Approximately half of the roots should be damaged for the shrub to be shocked into reproduction (flowering).
  • Don’t worry—impossible it’s to harm this unchecked, unwieldy, frequently invasive shrub!
  • The flowers of wisteria can also be impacted by chilly winter temperatures.

Native Wisteria

Consider growing a wisteria species that is indigenous to North America if you live there, such as:

  • Wisteria frutescens, also known as American wisteria, thrives in zones 5 through 9. Its original states span from Virginia to Texas, the southeast to Florida, and up into New York, Iowa, and Michigan in the north. The vine is 25 to 30 feet long, has glossy, dark-green leaves, and after the plant has begun to leaf out, develops huge, drooping clusters of lilac or purple-blue flowers. Only new wood will display the blossoms. Notably, the blossoms are typically less aromatic than those of Asian wisterias.
  • In zones 4 to 9, Kentucky wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya) flourishes. Similar to American wisteria, this late-bloomer is a native of the Southeast of the United States (it is sometimes considered a variety or subspecies of American wisteria). The Kentucky wisteria is the quickest to blossom, bearing faintly fragrant bluish-purple flowers after only two to three years of growth.
  • A gorgeous, silvery-blue cultivar of the native Kentucky wisteria called “Blue Moon” is particularly hardy. In late spring or early summer, it blooms. It can go as chilly as -40F. (-40C).

Non-Native Wisteria

  • Despite the fact that they are frequently marketed at nurseries and garden centers, Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) are non-native, invasive species, hence we do not suggest them for North American gardens. They can reach lengths of 30 to 60 feet and are hardy in Zones 5 to 9. (and beyond in the Southern U.S.). Japanese wisteria comes in two popular kinds, including:
  • Popular plant known as “Honbeni” displays clusters of pink flowers in the late spring.
  • “Alba” (also known as “Shiro Noda”) yields beautiful clusters of snow-white flowers in the late spring.

Are Wisteria Toxic to Pets and Humans?

Yes, the wisteria plant contains lectin and wisterin, which are poisonous to people, animals, and even pets. If taken in significant quantities, these poisons can result in anything from nausea and diarrhea to death.

If pets or young children frequent the area, it is a good idea to remove the seedpods after the plant has flowered because the material is particularly concentrated in the seeds and seedpods. Unaware children or animals won’t think twice about eating as many seedpods as they can because they are not unpleasant to taste or have an instant effect. In case of ingestion, contact your neighborhood poison control center.

Wisteria will it withstand the winter?

Don’t panic if your wisteria begins to drop its leaves in the fall. Deciduous wisteria predominates. Winter doesn’t keep it green, but the leaves will come back in the spring.

Before dropping their leaves, some wisteria varieties put on a show of fall color as the leaves turn yellow or gold. If it’s happening in the fall, there’s typically nothing to worry about unless you’re also observing other symptoms like an insect infestation. Yellowing and dropping leaves can be signals of disease and other problems.

While Evergreen Wisteria (Millettia reticulata) is more challenging to grow, all true Wisteria are deciduous. Your Evergreen Wisteria will most likely maintain its leaves throughout the year if you have hot summers and brief, mild winters with little below freezing. This is zone 9b and higher in the US, which includes a portion of California and Arizona as well as the southern half of Florida and Texas.

Evergreen Wisteria is deciduous like regular Wisteria in more temperate regions, so you may anticipate it to go dormant for the winter and sprout new leaves in the spring. You probably won’t be able to cultivate Evergreen Wisteria in a location that is colder than USDA zone 8 because even deciduous habit cannot shield it from prolonged, bitterly cold winters.

Wisteria can it grow in snow?

Wisteria (Wisteria spp.) plants have long pendants of fragrant purple or white flowers that dangle in a weeping manner. They are a favorite flower for climbing over arbors, training up a wall, or growing as a conventional tree. When grown, wisteria can readily withstand harsh winters and flourishes in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. However, young wisteria plants might not be able to withstand the first winter after planting without some protection from frost and chilly winds.

In the fall, water the wisteria plant frequently to maintain moist but not soggy soil. The plants may move nutrients from the soil and store them for the winter by receiving regular watering in the fall. When freezing conditions are predicted, water plants liberally to prevent desiccation of the leaves when the temperatures cause the moisture inside to freeze, leaving frost on the leaves.

To protect the vine’s roots from the cold throughout the winter, cover the base with a 4-inch layer of organic mulch. Anything from crushed bark mulch to dried leaves can be used. To ensure the entire root ball is insulated, keep the mulch a few inches away from the vine and cover a space that is at least 2 feet in diameter.

Wrap the main stem of the wisteria plant with a section of thin-walled plastic tubing. With a razor knife, cut the tubing lengthwise, then pry it open to allow it to fit around the wisteria stem. The plastic tubing is less expensive than using frost cloth or leftover fabric, which are typically far larger than what is required for the stem.

Create a temporary walled enclosure to safeguard the plant. Using a reciprocating saw, extend four 2-by-2-inch wooden posts by about 24 inches beyond the height of the wisteria. Using a hammer, pound the four stakes about 18 inches into the ground. Place the stakes evenly spaced around the plant, 18 inches from the stem.

Frost cloth, burlap, or another type of fabric can be used to cover the stakes. Without letting air escape around the plant’s base, the cloth must be big enough to completely cover the structure. If you require more than one piece of cloth, make sure the ends are at least six inches apart. Set up some bricks or rocks on the ground to hold the extra length in place. The inside temperature of the building stays higher than the outside temperature thanks to the heat that is radiated from the ground surrounding the plant and is trapped by the frost cloth or fabric.

The ideal places for wisteria to grow.

According to Kirsten Coffen, a landscape architect and designer based in Maryland, “its gorgeous spring-blooming cascade of purple (or white) scented flowers is best observed when trained on a structure, such as a robust pergola.”

Such a lush, floral canopy offers delightful shade throughout the sweltering summer months. According to Irene Kalina-Jones, a landscape designer at Outside Space NYC (opens in new tab), “We plant it on rooftops in the city, training it to cover pergolas to create shade.” “But I enjoy it grown against buildings, too,” you say.

Wisteria grows best in full sun in a protected location, such as a south or west-facing facade. When planting, work in a lot of organic matter (such as compost) to ensure that the soil is rich and well-drained.

If you want to grow wisteria up a wall or the front of a house, put some effort into building a strong structure that it can climb over many years. A tensioning system of wires is possibly preferable to a wooden trellis because wood can rot. The wires must either automatically tighten as the plant gains weight or be simple for you to tighten (via turnbuckles, for instance).

Can wisteria grow in subzero temperatures?

Wisteria vines can withstand a wide range of environmental factors, but the majority of types struggle in zones below USDA 4 to 5. Wisteria plants in Zone 3 were a bit of a pipe dream because these beloved plants of temperate climates often died during the cold, prolonged winters. Zones 3 to 9 are favorable for Kentucky wisteria, a chance hybrid that can be found in the swampy regions of south central United States from Louisiana and Texas north to Kentucky, Illinois, Missouri, and Oklahoma. In the cooler location, it even consistently produces flowers.

Japanese and Chinese wisteria are the two varieties grown most frequently. Chinese wisteria is appropriate down to zone 5, whereas Japanese wisteria is a little more hardy and thrives in zone 4. The Kentucky wisteria is descended from the American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens.

The plants naturally grow in highland thickets, riverbanks, and marshy woodlands. While Kentucky wisteria may flourish as low as zone 3, American wisteria is hardy only to zone 5. Wisteria can be grown well in zone 3 thanks to a number of novel cultivars that have been released. Compared to its Asian counterparts, Kentucky wisteria is less pushy and more well-mannered. Even after severe winters, it regularly blooms in the spring with slightly smaller flowers.

In USDA zone 3, Wisteria macrostachya, another plant, has also demonstrated its dependability. It is marketed under the name “Summer Cascade.”

The best wisteria vines for zone 3 are Kentucky wisteria plants. Even a few cultivars are available for selection.

A Minnesotan cultivar named “Blue Moon” sports tiny, fragrant clusters of periwinkle blue flowers. In June, vines can reach lengths of 15 to 25 feet and bear racemes of fragrant, pea-like blooms that are 6 to 12 inches long. These zone 3 wisteria bushes then develop 4–5 inch long, velvety, soft pods. The plant’s delicate, pinnate, dark green leaves on twining stalks only add to its allure.

The aforementioned “Summer Cascade” has racemes of delicate lavender blooms that are 10 to 12 inches long. Other varieties include “Clara Mack,” which has white blooms, and “Aunt Dee,” which has lovely antique lilac flowers.

Are dogs poisonous to wisteria?

Because wisteria doesn’t have a bad taste, dogs may eat deadly amounts of it.

Wisterias are absolutely gorgeous, with cascades of flowing purple blossoms. However, their leaves and blooms can also be dangerous in excessive numbers, and their seeds (and seed pods) are extremely poisonous to dogs.

Even worse, the results take time to manifest. Wisteria also doesn’t taste unpleasant, making it simple for dogs to consume excessive amounts before you realize there is a problem.

Does my wisteria have frost damage?

Problems can sporadically arise due to frost. The wisteria on the left photograph has been flourishing for ten years now without any issues. The 2017 Spring, however, was out of the ordinary due to unusually dry and warm weather, which accelerated the growing season and resulted in the Wisteria being in full bud by mid-April. Then, throughout much of the nation, a severe cold spell struck with both ground and air frosts. After temperatures dipped to -5, winegrowers in the south of England reported crop damage of 75%.

Wisteria isn’t helped by Frost either, as the picture on the left illustrates. As seen in the image, some buds have blossomed, but others have suffered significant damage and won’t. Although not lethal, it is disheartening because only approximately half of the wisteria will flower. Wisteria is hardy, and it will return the following year. Depending on the weather, as usual, there might even be a second flush of blossoms in August. By placing Wisteria in a protected area, you can reduce frost damage.

When does wisteria become too cold?

While in their winter dormancy, wisteria are unaffected by cold temperatures; in fact, certain varieties and cultivars of the plant can withstand temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit. When a plant, which blooms on growth from the previous season, buds or begins to put on leaves in a warm early spring, and then temps drop below freezing, that’s when problems arise. You can reduce the amount of blackened vine tips and buds on your wisteria after a freeze by planting it in a protected location, such as a western or southern exposure close to a structure that protects it from wind or next to a masonry wall that vents heat absorbed during the day.