The houseplant Monstera Deliciosa is swiftly rising to the top of the market. They have distinctive leaves, a low-maintenance outlook, and the capacity to develop into the monster-sized plant that their name implies, which is why people (including myself) adore them. You will frequently observe the enormous forms of these plants growing on stakes or on a pole coated in moss. But do Monsteras actually require assistance to grow? What kind of support is ideal for a Monstera? Need moss poles for Monsteras?
Moss poles are frequently used to support Monsteras and other climbing plants, however they are not required. Giving your Monstera a moss pole encourages bigger leaf development, keeps the plant growing upright, and can supply nutrients and moisture to the plant through aerial roots.
A Monstera can have a happy and healthy life without technically needing a moss pole or other kind of support. You might discover that you are pleased to let your Monstera spread out organically, depending on the plant’s growth pattern and the space you have available. Here is more information about moss poles and several more options for your Monstera to climb if you want to train it to grow upright.
Why is a moss pole necessary for my Monstera?
Those of you who have a Monstera deliciosa at home may have picked up on a few things since bringing it in. One, aren’t those leaves gorgeous? Two, it’s actually expanding quite swiftly. Third, M. deliciosa doesn’t comprehend the need of having sound personal limits. Give this adorable giant of a houseplant a moss totem to grasp onto if you find yourself outgrowing your home. Here, we’ll walk you through the installation process and show you how to control some of your monster’s adorable excitement.
M. deliciosa uses its powerful aerial roots to cling to and take moisture from the rough bark of large rainforest trees in its natural habitat. It is a natural wanderer. A moss totem is an upright pole that is completely covered in sphagnum moss and is staked into the plant’s pot. Its natural surface provides something for a monstera’s roots to grip onto and take moisture from, acting as a stand-in for a tree. A moss totem allows M. deliciosa to act more like it would in the wild while yet supporting those heavy stems and leaves better than a traditional plant stake or wire trellis.
With just a few basic tools, you can train a monstera to a moss pole:
- Your terra cotta monstera
- a ready-made moss totem
- Soft plant ties, yarn, or cotton string are good options for gentle ties.
- A new container that is 1-2 wider than the old one, together with high-quality potting soil for houseplants, if repotting is required.
We like Mosser Lee’s Totem PoleTM Extendable Plant Supports for moss totems. These realistic-looking, tube-shaped supports come in three lengths plus an additional 12 extensions for when your monstera inevitably becomes even bigger. They are packed with moisture-absorbing, long-fiber sphagnum moss.
Start by putting the moss totem in a shallow water container and letting it soak until it is completely soaked.
Before adding the totem, it’s a good idea to check your plant to see whether it has to be repotted while the moss is soaking. You can install the moss totem without repotting your M. deliciosa if the pot is large enough and the roots aren’t too crowded. However, if your plant needs a new pot anyhow, now is a fantastic time to start working on its new totem.
If your monstera has to be repotted, start by removing it from its current container and looking at the roots. If the roots are tightly packed, you may need to loosen them up a bit. As you normally would, repotter the plant into a new pot with fresh soil; however, instead of placing it exactly in the center, move it slightly toward the front of the pot. With the majority of the foliage facing outward, the moss totem can fit behind the plant in this manner.
Installing the Totem
When the plant and container are prepared, deeply embed the strong metal supports at the bottom of the moistened moss pole. Keep the pole upright and tuck it behind the plant just a bit. The totem can then be stabilized by lightly pressing the earth at the base.
Attaching the Plant to the Pole
It’s time to acquaint your plant with its new totem now. Some of your monstera’s stems may be longer and more strong than others, as you may have noticed. Several huge leaves are supported by these thicker stalks, and they may also be beginning to sprout some knobby aerial roots. The stems could potentially start to spread out from the pot like a vine as they develop horizontally. The more slender leaf stalks and their leaves will be allowed to fill in around the bottom once you attach these stems to the totem.
Bring the stem up against the moistened moss and fasten it gently yet securely with a piece of soft plant tie, twine, or cotton string to help it adhere to the totem. If the stem is long, bind it to the totem by tying it to it several times. Repeat this process with any other substantial stems, then take a step back to ensure the plant’s general form is to your liking. Your M. deliciosa will eventually use its aerial roots to cling to the moss and proceed to climb higher on its new support.
With one extra step, caring for a monster on a totem is just like caring for one without. Misting the moss on occasion is a smart idea to keep your monstera interested in its new support. The roots will continue to spread into the moss if the plant detects moisture there.
For routine maintenance, make sure the container drains effectively, let the top inch or two of soil a little amount of soil dry out between waterings, and set your plant where it receives lots of bright, indirect light. Additionally, take sure to turn your wandering plant every so often to keep things balanced if it tends to lean one way or the other while looking for the best source of light.
Some Plants Just Need a Little Guidance
Not just monsteras are helped by a little patient correction in the home. A moss totem is also helpful with other monster species, such as M. adansonii, as well as some philodendrons, like “Prince of Orange” and “Pink Princess.” Ask if you need help caring for any of your “wandering plant pals.” We are always happy to assist.
A moss pole serves what purpose?
The world of indoor plants has a new craze: moss poles! With images of Monsteras and Philodendrons cheerfully rising upward, Instagram is full of inspiration (and plant jealousy).
What advantages do you get from staking your plants? Numerous tropical houseplants are categorized as epiphytes, including Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos, and Scindapsus. In order to reach the brilliantly illuminated tree canopy, they must grow on other plants in their natural environment, which is outdoors. Moss poles give your plants the physical support they need to develop aerial roots and climb upward while simulating the texture of moist, mossy bark. In order to fit better in confined places, plants with wide growth can also be trained to take on an erect, narrow form using moss poles.
Making your own moss pole may seem like a difficult project, but it’s simple and enjoyable! We’ll walk you through the process of making moss poles for a variety of indoor plants. Make your own by following the instructions, and you’ll have a shelf full of climbing plants in no time.
Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)
Knowing a plant’s origins is crucial for assessing its compatibility for your space and planning the care it will require. Native to desert areas, these plants need a lot of sunlight and loose, quickly draining soil. Strong sunlight and copious humidity will require some shelter for plants from the jungle bottom.
Monstera is a climbing plant endemic to Mexico and Central America’s rainforests that uses aerial roots to clamber up and through the branches of trees. On mature leaves, the peculiar perforations that give it the nickname “Swiss cheese plant” appear. The exact cause of this adaptation is unknown, but it is made possible through a genetically encoded process that is rare in the world of plants and in which cells plan their own demise through programmed cell death.
Growing plants within the house require the support of a moss-covered, climbable pole. If properly cared for, monstera can live for many years and reach heights of well over ten feet.
Incorrect names for Monstera deliciosa include split-leaf philodendron and Philodenron pertusum. These names, which are synonyms for monstera or Monstera deliciosa*, are no longer regarded as acceptable plant names.
Monsteras should be kept out of direct sunlight and planted in areas with bright, filtered light or light shade from March to September, when they are actively growing. Your plant will be protected from a tropical tree canopy in its natural rainforest by the leaves of the trees outside the window or a sheer curtain. Alternately, a spot in a well-lit area away from a window can do.
The plant need more direct, strong light during the winter. To maintain the health and appealing characteristics of monsteras, which have huge, glossy leaves with well-developed divisions, it is crucial to provide that additional light exposure.
Water and Humidity:
Check back after 15 minutes to remove any water still in the plant’s run-off dish after giving the soil a good thorough watering to make it moist but not soggy. Allow the soil to almost completely dry out between waterings when the plant is actively growing. For ideal humidity, mist the plant and its moss pole every day or give a damp pebble tray. Every week, wash the leaves with warm water.
Normal house temperatures range between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and are fine during the growth season. The relaxation that happens at these colder winter temperatures is beneficial to monsteras. Once the temperature reaches 65 degrees, your plant will start growing again, but this time with more humidity and water.
Ensure that this plant is shielded from sudden changes in temperature caused by open windows, air conditioners, and heating vents.
Monsteras prefer to be root-bound and can remain in the same pot for years until switching to a pot one size larger when the roots start to protrude past the drain hole. Soil that drains quickly is crucial. The ideal ratio is usually equal parts potting soil, peat, and sand. Replace the top layer of soil every other year after the pot’s maximum capacity is achieved.
What to Watch for:
The aerial roots are crucial for nutrition and climbing. The most beautiful plants have strong aerial roots, so let them alone. Encourage some of these roots to grow into the moss-covered support for your plant as it develops into a vine, leaving the remaining ones exposed so they may take in moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. (You can create your own supporting pole for a monstera by inserting the end of a tube of wrapped plastic netting deep into the soil of the pot.)
It is normal and gradual for the oldest leaves to fall off. If you overwater or underfeed your plants, the leaves may become yellow and drop in greater quantities.
Stretching of the leaf stems and the emergence of stunted leaves without holes may be signs of insufficient light, especially in the winter. Your plant requires energy to grow strong, robust leaves, but it might not be getting enough light or taking a crucial winter break.
Should Monstera be fastened to a moss pole?
Aroid Monstera Deliciosa is a climber. Without a supporting framework, its leaves won’t enlarge and become more fenestrated.
The greatest time to add a moss pole is while you are repotting your plant, but only if it is what your plant needs.
A moss pole can be erected either direction; there is no need to disturb the plant. However, if you are repottering, be sure to put your Monstera Deliciosa in its pot again in a location that is a little off-center from the center. The best location for a moss pole to stand is in the pot’s middle.
The moss pole must penetrate the pot deeply. Thus that it won’t be bothered in the future if there are big leaves hanging from its top.
Your Monstera Deliciosa will have thick stems with aerial roots emerging from the nodes, as you will notice. The thickest stem needs to be attached to the moss pole first.
To ensure that the aerial roots keep expanding around the moss pole, spray it once or twice a week.
Although it may seem like extra work, doing this will provide your plant the additional water it needs to maintain its top foliage.
You might have to give up a leaf if you still see them sticking out of the pot and taking up horizontal space.
Although it’s not ideal, pruning those lovely leaves will ensure that all future development occurs vertically.
Last but not least, light is the most organic approach to control the direction of new growth. So remember to take use of light. Instead of growing upward, a Monstera Deliciosa may tilt heavily to one side.
You might be able to sort things out if you twist the plant such that it appears to be leaning away from the source of light. because the plant changes its course and moves in that direction.
Does every Monstera require a pole?
The quick response? They don’t need poles because the decision is primarily aesthetic.
The way each Monstera deliciosa plant grows differently is one of my favorite things about them. Some grow up straight, while others sprawl or lean. However, in my experience, it’s best to observe how your particular plant is growing and then choose the support structure that will help prop the plant up and, if you like, guide it to grow to fit your chosen aesthetic. I’ve noticed that many people automatically put a moss pole in with their monsteras thinking this is necessary for optimal growth.
A moss pole in the center of a container won’t cause the plant to shift its growth pattern. It only offers a framework to either change or support its current growth pattern. A wooden stake may be adequate for smaller plants to direct growth upward rather than outward. A trellis with its numerous connection points may be more efficient to corral a sprawler for plants that encroach on a lot of space (or for plants that are grown in various pots).
This large male is spontaneously developing (without the need for support yet), with each leaf stem extending out on either side of the main, thick and sturdy stem. It has a few long aerial roots, which I carefully tuck inside the pot because if I don’t, they could adhere to the wall. I’m going to leave it support-free until something changes because it has been enjoying expanding in this manner for a year and is still going strong.