Why Is My Monstera Adansonii Turning Brown

Your soil may retain water for an excessively long time if it is initially too dense. The monstera adansonii thrives on a peaty, light soil with good drainage. We adore this mixture, and all monstera kinds do well in our Premium Monstera Potting Soil. And as soon as you open the bag, it’s ready to use!

It’s always a good idea to add some perlite, vermiculite, or orchid bark to any bagged soil you use to aerate it and improve drainage.

You realize that your pot contains drainage holes? If not, quickly place your plant in a pot with holes!

Moisture Meter

Our preferred tool for closely monitoring the moisture level of a houseplant’s soil is a moisture meter because it provides information about the soil’s condition deeper in the pot as well as inside the root ball, as opposed to merely the top few inches that can be felt with the finger.

A moisture meter is a necessary tool for any indoor gardener because it is conceivable for the root ball to be wet while the top few inches of soil are dry.

We adore this meter because it detects soil pH, light, and moisture in addition as moisture! Get it here from Amazon.

Check for Root Rot

Long-term exposure to wet soil might cause the roots of your monstera adansonii to decay.

You might see blotches on the leaves that are dark brown or even black, as well as a potential foul smell. You might need to unpot your monstera to look at the roots if you see any of these symptoms. You have root rot if they are shady, mushy, or odorous. By removing the decaying roots, repotting into new soil, and watering with a healing root supplement, you can swiftly cure this disease and save your monstera.


Make sure to start fertilizing frequently using a liquid fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 5-2-3 if your plant is yellowing as a result of nutritional deficit.

You won’t need to keep track of a schedule or worry about over- or under-fertilizing because Monstera Plant Food is delicate enough to use with every watering and is exactly balanced for monstera plants.

Why are the leaves on my Adansonii fading to brown?

Even the best of us experience it. Your plant’s leaf tips or edges have abruptly turned brown. A few things need to be examined to determine what has to be fixed.

1. If your Monstera adansonii has brown leaf tips and edges, it may be receiving too much direct sunshine. Burn marks might sometimes appear on leaves as dark or black dots.

The second possibility is that you are providing your Monstera with either too much or not enough water.

Consider this. How recently did you give it water? Examine the soil. Does it have enough time to dry out? Is it really dry or the opposite?

Simple fix: Water your plant well if the soil is entirely dry. Give the soil some more time to dry out if it still seems damp. Make sure the plant is on soil that drains adequately and that the pot has drainage holes. Pace your future watering schedule.

3. The absence of adequate humidity is the third potential cause for your plant’s problems.

Simple solution: Mist your plant more frequently, or place a humidity tray or humidifier close by.

How may a dying Monstera Adansonii be saved?

A monstera plant frequently dies as a result of low humidity, being underwatered, and cold weather. Monstera are tropical plants that require thorough watering every 7 days, temperatures between 60F and 85F, and regular misting. Drought-related death of the monstera is indicated by brown, curled, or drooping leaves.

It is crucial to mimic the environment of a dying monstera, including humidity levels of around 30 percent, temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, direct sunlight, and a watering cycle that involves thorough soaking followed by a brief period of drying out for the top inch of the potting medium.

Continue reading to find out the causes of your monstera plant’s (Swiss cheese plant) demise and how to put the answers into practice to bring it back to life.

Yellow monstera leaves can mean it’s either getting too much water, or not enough nutrients.

Yellow leaves can also signify a variety of things. You’re probably overwatering your monstera if the leaves are turning yellow. Make sure your plant receives lots of indirect sunshine so the top few inches of soil may dry out quickly before watering.

Considering that your monstera may also be lacking in nutrients, this is an excellent moment to start using a liquid fertilizer in your usual care. Because Monstera Plant Food is made to be used with every watering, you won’t need to keep track of a fertilization schedule, which is why we adore it!

Dark brown spots on monstera leaves is a good indication of the plant getting too much water.

If your monstera plant has dark brown stains on its leaves, it may be because of overwatering, which is rotting the roots. (Read 4 Signs Your Monstera Is Over-Watered for additional information.)

Trim off any roots that appear mushy or brown with clean, sharp pruning scissors after carefully removing the plant from the pot. Repot the plant into a clean container (either a new one or the old one that you’ve cleaned out) with fresh, dry soil after removing as much of the old, damp dirt from the root ball as you can.

Make sure your monstera receives enough of light, and reduce watering while the plant is healing. You can also remove the damaged leaves with pruning.

Make sure the soil feels dry before watering to prevent root rot, and think about obtaining a moisture meter like this one to check the moisture content of the root ball before watering.

Light brown spots and crispy edges on monstera leaves means the monstera needs more water.

Your monstera plant may be thirsty if the edges become a light brown color and become “crispy.” Give the earth a drink and think about watering a little more frequently if it feels dry. The dead edges can be removed because they won’t recover.

Additionally, avoid placing your monstera in direct sunlight as this might burn the leaves! Move your monstera a little further into the space or to a better location altogether if you observe the sunshine directly striking your leaves.

A drooping monstera can mean it needs more water or more light.

Another symptom that could imply a variety of things is drooping monstera leaves. Your monstera may be overwatered or underwatered in this situation.

Look at the earth to determine which it is! It’s likely that your plant needs water if the soil seems dry. Give your plant a chance to dry out if it feels moist before watering it once more. Make sure it receives plenty of indirect sunshine so it can successfully do this. Consider repotting into a pot with greater drainage and a faster-draining soil if you notice your soil remains wet for an extended period of time.

Your monstera might need additional light if the soil looks to be healthy and watering doesn’t seem to be the problem. (Read 4 Signs Your Monstera Needs More Light for more information.)

Read our instructions on watering your monstera here. Watering is typically the most challenging aspect of taking care of any plant.

How is Browning fixed on Monstera?

Your Monstera may be receiving too much direct sunlight if its leaves are turning brown. The leaves might burn as a result of this, and they wouldn’t be able to recover. Bright light is preferred by monsteras, although it must be indirect. Try shifting your Monstera to a different window if the south-facing one provides too much direct light. In the summer, when the sun is more intense for longer stretches of the day, you need exercise a little more caution. In order to prevent any leaf burn, it is preferable to relocate your Monstera about a meter further away from the window during the warmer months.

You can use a light meter to determine how much light your Monstera receives during the day. It’s possible that your Monstera receives excessive early sun exposure or afternoon shade on account of its location.

Low humidity levels cause brown edges on Monstera leaves

Since monsteras are native to tropical jungles, they prefer a humid habitat. Your home’s air may be too dry for your Monstera if you notice that the edges of its leaves are becoming brown. There are a few extremely easy ways to maintain your Monstera’s humidity levels higher than normal. You can spritz the leaves every few days, place your plant in a tray with water and stones, or place it in the bathroom while the shower is running hot.

Using a humidifier is the greatest approach to steadily raise the humidity for your plant. They contribute to raising the amount of water vapor in the air around your plants, which keeps the dry leaves at bay and results in a lot of happy, healthy plants.

If you’re more concerned, you may also purchase a reliable humidity meter to keep track of everything. Move your Monstera away from any air conditioners as well, as they produce very dry air.

Lack of nutrients could be the cause

Lack of nutrition is a less evident reason why your monstera’s leaves are turning brown. It is definitely a good idea to replace some of the soil in the pot with a nice rich potting mix or compost if you haven’t repotted your monstera in new soil in a year or two. In order to ensure that your plant is receiving enough nutrients to flourish, it is also a good idea to feed it every few months during the growing seasons (spring and summer). You have two options for fertilizers: liquid fertilizers that you mix with water, or spikes that you plant in the soil and let release nutrients gradually.

The most frequent causes of browning monstera leaves are as follows. We advise cutting the dark sections of the leaf or removing the entire leaf if it has begun to turn brown because there is frequently no turning back after a leaf has started.

If the issue is identified quickly and properly treated, your monstera should recover fully and start to produce lush, healthy leaves once more.

Do I need to remove the brown Monstera leaves?

Your Monstera should have any damaged leaves removed. Trimming dead leaves helps your plant’s health in addition to improving its appearance.

  • Unable to photosynthesize are dead leaves. Any brown or black areas on your Monstera’s leaves are no longer able to supply the plant with energy.
  • Dead leaf sections have no protection against rot and infection in comparison to healthy leaves. Dead plant cells provide nutrients that are consumed by bacteria and fungi. For instance, you can notice mold growing on dead leaves that have been left on the plant or in the soil. To help defend the remainder of the plant against these diseases, remove any dark or damaged tissue.

It is possible that only the ripped edge of a leaf will become brown to seal a cut if there is only very minimal damage, such as accidently ripping or torn a portion of the leaf. Leave minor imperfections alone if they don’t affect other parts of the plant or interfere with your pleasure of the plant’s aesthetics.

Monstera damage to the roots and stems can be more serious than damage to the leaves because it prevents the plant from transporting water and nutrients. Visit our soon-to-be-available guides on stem damage and root rot.

How frequently should Monstera adansonii be watered?

My eight Monstera adansonii plants receive water when the soil mixture is 1/23/4 dry. This typically occurs every 79 days during the summer and every 1420 days during the winter.

Keep your Monstera at a moderate moisture level. Depending on the size of the pot, the type of soil it is planted in, the area where it is growing, and the climate in your home, yours may require watering more or less frequently than mine does.

Two things: refrain from overwatering yours (this will cause root rot and cause the plant to die) and reduce the amount of watering you do throughout the winter.


Your houseplants will also feel comfortable in it if you do. This Monstera enjoys a warmer climate during the growing season and a milder climate during the winter months when they are dormant.

Just make sure to keep it away from any drafts and from vents that provide either heating or cooling.


The Monstera adansonii enjoys it, just like many tropical plants do. Despite being native to tropical rainforest environments, they thrive in our homes.

Your leaves may be reacting to the dry air in our houses if they have little brown tips. Many of the leaves of my indoor plants, including this one, have them because I live in hot, dry Tucson where the humidity level is typically around 25%.

My kitchen sink is big and deep, and it has a water filter on the faucet. I take mine to the sink every time I water it, spritz the leaves there, and then leave it there for about an hour to temporarily increase the humidity level. Additionally, it prevents dust from gathering on the leaves, which could impair the foliage’s ability to breathe.

I run the diffusers I have on my tables for 4 to 8 hours each day. Here in the arid desert, this seems to assist a little bit.

Fill the saucer with stones and water if you suspect the absence of humidity is the cause of yours looking stressed. Place the plant on the pebbles, but watch out for water collecting in the pot’s bottom or around the drain holes. I do that with some of my houseplants, and it also helps.


Every spring, I lightly apply worm compost to the majority of my indoor plants before covering it with a thin layer of compost. For tiny plants, a 1/4 coating of each is sufficient. For larger pots, I increase the layer to 1/21. You can learn more about my worm composting and feeding practices right here.

Eleanor’s vf-11 is used 23 times to water my Monstera adansonii over the warmer seasons of spring, summer, and early fall.

For her indoor plants, my buddy in San Francisco uses Maxsea Plant Food, which has a composition of 16-16-16. I’ve started applying this (at half strength) 2-3 times over the season, spread out between the Eleanors. As of now, so nice!

Tucson has a lengthy growth season, and indoor plants benefit from the nutrition these plant meals offer. For your plant, once or twice a year might be plenty.

Avoid over-fertilizing your plant, regardless of the type of houseplant food you use, as salts can build up and damage the plant’s roots. Brown patches will appear on the leaves as a result.

Since houseplants need time to rest in the late fall and winter, it’s better to avoid feeding or fertilizing them during those times.