Why Is My Mini Monstera Drooping

Due mostly to its spectacular leaves, the Monstera deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant) is a common houseplant. Although they are simple to care for, these fellas do have one drawback: if they feel neglected, they have a tendency to pout, which may cause your Monstera leaves to droop. Don’t panic too much. They can quickly be persuaded to recover with a little loving attention.

The most frequent cause of drooping monstera leaves is dehydration. They prefer their soil to always be just moist enough. Other contributing factors include overwatering, poor lighting, issues with fertilizer, pests, or transplant stress. The most crucial step in restoring your plant to health is figuring out what the issue is.

How can droopy Monstera be fixed?

The Monstera prefers persistently moist soil. Make sure your plant is not being overwatered or overgrown. Water according to a regular schedule when the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry.

You can see weak, drooping, and perhaps even turning dark leaves if you unintentionally let the soil on your Monstera plant dry out completely. A thorough soak is necessary if the soil is very dry over the entire container.

How to soak-water your Monstera is as follows:

  • Without the saucer, put your plant in the sink or bathtub. Pour roughly 3 to 4 cups of water into your basin. Check to see if the water is warm.
  • Give your plant at least 45 minutes to absorb water through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot.
  • After giving your plant a soak, feel the soil’s top to see if the water has gotten to the top 2-3 inches.
  • If the soil on your Monstera doesn’t feel completely saturated, water it a little from the top to hasten soaking.
  • Drain the sink or tub once the soil of your plant is evenly moist, and then leave it to rest while it completely drains. Put the plant back in its proper place on the saucer.

As a tropical plant, your Monstera will flourish in more humid conditions. By regularly spraying the leaves of your plant, using a pebble tray, or placing a humidifier close by, you can raise the humidity level in the area around it.

How frequently should Mini Monstera be watered?

Mini Monsteras may tolerate low to high levels of indirect, dappled light. Their leaves may burn and scorch if exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time. Low light conditions will inhibit growth.


Weekly waterings and frequent mistings are enjoyable for your Mini Monstera. In the winter, when you may only need to water your plant every two weeks, let the soil dry up in between waterings.


Because Mini Monsteras thrive in a damp atmosphere, we advise spraying their leaves frequently. To boost the humidity of the air around your plant, you might also place it close to other plants.


Yellowing leaves may indicate moisture stress or excessive sun exposure for your Mini Monstera.

Browning leaves are a sign that your plant has been receiving insufficient light or has been exposed to low humidity.

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma Problem #1: Root rot

You most likely have root rot if your Monstera is suddenly dying. All types of indoor plants are prone to root rot, but the Mini Monstera is especially vulnerable to it.

However, there are other Mini Monstera care issues that may arise and result in root rot.

If your wonderful plant already has root rot, have a look at our root rot treatment guide to learn what you can do.

Check out our page on the causes and symptoms of root rot if you’re not sure if your plant has root rot at all.

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma Problem #2: Curling Leaves

Curling leaves on your Mini Monstera may be a sign of insufficient humidity.

Your Rhaphidophora tetrasperma naturally appreciates a lot of humidity because it is a tropical plant.

Increase the humidity to remedy the issue. Here are several methods for carrying it out:

  • More often mist your plant,
  • Place your plant on a tray filled with wet pebbles, along with the pot.
  • Place your plant in a place with more humidity (bathroom if light requirements can be met)
  • Purchase a humidifier

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma Problem #3: Droopy Leaves

Another frequent issue that Rhaphidophora tetrasperma plant parents may experience is droopy leaves.

While there are a few potential causes of droopy leaves on your plant, overwatering or underwatering are the most likely ones.

Check your plant’s leaves for pests like mealybugs or spider mites if you are certain that your watering schedule is correct.

Since these pests are sucking the sap from your plant, which can also result in droopy leaves, they may also be to blame for the droopy leaves.

Too-high temperatures are yet another factor that could contribute to droopy leaves on your plant.

Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma Problem #4: Yellow leaves

There’s a good chance that at least some of your indoor plants have yellow leaves. It’s undeniably one of those issues that most plant parents eventually have to deal with.

What can I do to make my Monstera stand up?

Right now, Monstera Deliciosa is a stylish and well-liked houseplant, and it’s simple to understand why. The room’s broad, glossy, dark-green leaves have a tropical feel to it, and under the correct circumstances, they develop swiftly. In fact, this plant’s potential for growing too large for some homes is one of its only drawbacks. When a Monstera grows large, it often tips over or leans to one side.

How can a Monstera Deliciosa be kept from leaning over? Staking a Monstera Deliciosa with a support like a moss pole, trellis, or garden stakes is the best way to keep it growing upright. These natural climbers can be trained to climb these poles by being connected to them, and they will be supported as they do so.

Although a Monstera won’t be harmed by not growing upright, most people like them to be as straight and tall as possible for aesthetic and spatial reasons. To help you keep your Monstera looking the way you want it to, I’ll go into further depth below why why this occurs in the first place.

How long does Monstera take to perk up?

1) Remove the yellowed/blackened leaf; the damage has been done and it is now an eyesore.

2) Place the plant where you can thoroughly moisten the ground.

Pour an amount of water into the soil that is equal to its full volume, very gently.

It goes without saying that water will exit the drainage holes. You must equally moisten the entire amount of soil.

3) Position the plant directly in the center of the window, and I’m hoping you’ll leave the blinds open entirely throughout the day. The plant’s perspective of the sky is significantly limited when it is off to the side. Every plant must have the broadest vista of the sky possible (and only some plants ALSO need hours of direct sun).

After completing the aforementioned methods, your monstera plant should start to grow again if its roots are healthy. Please do that, and let me know how it goes!

What place do I store my miniature Monstera?

Mini Monsteras love bright, filtered light, therefore they should be situated close to a window with lots of sunlight. Its leaves get their distinctive heart shape and deep splits as a result of receiving just the proper amount of sunlight. Although this plant can tolerate low light levels, it won’t do its well-known leaf-splitting or climbing stunts and will instead grow slowly and have lesser foliage. On the other side, too much sun might make your leaves dry out and turn yellow. Our best piece of advise is to give your new friend access to bright shade for the majority of the day and some early sunlight.

Like the majority of other aroids and mankind, the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma does not like extremes in temperature. Temperatures between 55 and 85 °F are ideal for these plants. Avoid heating or air conditioning vents in the summer or winter to lessen any stress on your shiny climber.

In the warmer months, you may move your RT outside to create a tropical atmosphere on your patio or balcony. When the temperature drops at night, they can be very laid-back, but you should bring them inside if it dips below 55F. Always make sure this plant is receiving the right light wherever you decide to display it because it is thought to grow quickly!

Letting Your Mini Monstera Climb

Did we already explain that the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma enjoys climbing? Of course we have; it’s just one of their many appealing qualities that makes them so well-liked by lovers of indoor plants. Our Mini Monstera is pre-trained to climb using its totem, and it will do so as it becomes bigger by using its aerial roots. Find literally whatever you can to fasten new growth to the totem when it emerges from the plant’s base. Examples include nursery tape, zip ties, and handcuffs—okay, maybe not handcuffs, but you get the idea. Just be careful not to detract from the look by making it as unnoticeable as you can. Always keep in mind that your RT will create more new, climbing growth the more sunlight it receives!

Although some people may adore the way RTs spill out of hanging baskets, permitting them to hang will really lead to uneven growth and smaller leaves devoid of the distinctive splits. They will live a happy and healthy life if you keep them as floor plants and let them climb whatever structure you want. They will also thank you by creating an exotic atmosphere to any room you choose.

We usually advise keeping your new plant acquisitions in the grow pot they came in; all you need to do is pick a slightly larger pot that matches your decor and set the grow pot inside. However, because the Mini Monstera grows quickly, the day can come when its roots can no longer go beyond the confines of its original grow container. If it appears that up-potting is required, start by locating a larger grow pot and some indoor planting soil. Remove your Mini Monstera from its current grow pot with care, then fill the bottom few inches of the new grow pot with dirt. Place the root ball on top of the fresh soil after that, then add a little more soil on top of that until the root ball is completely covered. Voila! Give it a misty shower. Your miniature climber is prepared to embark on new journeys.

Because these plants have a slight poisonous effect on animals, make sure the area where you choose to let them climb is out of your pet’s reach. Mini Monstera plants are actually extremely simple to cultivate; all they need to become tall and beautiful is the correct amount of light, a considerate feeding and watering schedule, and plenty of love.

What shall I place my miniature Monstera plant?

Mini monstera benefit from several hours of daily bright, indirect light. Avoid placing the leaves of this tropical understory plant in direct sunlight since they are easily burned.

Are Mini Monstera uncommon?

  • South-east Asia is the home of the 100 or more species that make up the genus Rhaphidophora.
  • This miniature Monstera is regarded as an exotic jungle plant, yet it can also be found in arid areas and rainforests, making it a simple houseplant to maintain. However, hanging these plants can produce smaller, split-free leaves.
  • Rare tropical aroid Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma has delicate decorative leaves with split lobes measuring 6 inches (15 cm) across.
  • Because of how similar their leaves resemble those of Monstera Deliciosa, it is frequently called Mini Monstera. It is an entirely distinct species, though, and has no edible fruits.
  • These plants can grow as tall as 12 feet (3.65 meters), depending on the surrounding environment. It is often preferred to be 4 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 meters) tall when used as a houseplant.
  • They are climbing plants with aerial roots that cling to trees or other structures that will help them stay stable as they expand, such trellises.

How can I keep my little Monstera plant alive?

This year, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma has gained enormous popularity, and it may be mostly due to how spectacular it seems and how simple it is to grow; this is no diva plant! This plant is adaptable and content in a variety of situations, as evidenced by the fact that it may be found in a variety of rainforest conditions in its native habitats of Malaysia and Thailand.

Please be advised that the plant could be dangerous if consumed; keep both children and animals away from it.

Common Symptoms

  • If your plant has scorched or pale leaves, it is receiving too much direct sun. Move to an area that is more shaded because mini monsteras have less of a waxy covering than its namesake (the monstera deliciosa).
  • Spots or patches on leaves: There may be a few causes, but over-watering is probably to blame if the spots are brown and mushy. The optimum water to use is always tepid (room temperature), as lighter colored areas can indicate shock from cold water.
  • Brown margins on the foliage: Several problems can show up in this way. If your houseplant is close to a heat source, air conditioner, or draught, dry air is the most frequent problem. Another potential issue is inconsistent irrigation.
  • New leaves are tiny. To maintain the health of your rhaphidophora tetrasperma as a climbing houseplant, you may need to cut the vines when they become very long. It’s possible that your plant isn’t receiving enough light or humidity if the leaves are consistently small.
  • No leaf splits: This plant’s fenestrations, or splits in the leaves, are one of its most distinctive characteristics and what gives it a monstera deliciosa-like appearance. Move to a brighter location or install a support if there are poor lighting conditions or no poles or trellises to provide support.
  • Older leaves will naturally turn yellow and fall off as they progress through the life cycle. But if many leaves fall off at once, it can be from prolonged overwatering or chilly drafts.
  • Pests: Red spider mite, thrips, and aphids are some to be especially wary of in warm, dry circumstances. Incorrect care and a lack of humidity are the major reasons pests may arise. The greatest defense against pests is to maintain high humidity, however neem oil or insecticidal soap can be used to treat this houseplant if bugs are already present. Keep the plant isolated and repeat weekly until entirely pest-free.

Care Instructions

  • Origin: Native to Malaysia and Thailand in both wet and dry jungle environments.
  • 1.5 meters tall with a 1-meter span.
  • Light: Bright, filtered indirect light is ideal, while it can also be used in lower light levels. Avoid direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves.
  • Water: Use room-temperature water to keep the soil moist, but don’t let the plant sit in it. During the dormant seasons of fall and winter, let the plant dry out in between waterings because too much water can stress it out.
  • Moderate humidity and frequent misting are advantageous. Your Rhaphidophora tetrasperma will grow healthier and have larger leaves if the humidity is at a good level.
  • Temperature: The tiny monstera will thrive in temperatures between 12 and 27 degrees Celsius. Avoid sharp temperature dips, and be cautious with draughts and open windows.
  • The optimal soil for this houseplant is a free-draining organic potting mix that also lets the roots to breathe. Coco chips or orchid bark work just as well.
  • During the growing season, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma receive frequent fertilization—twice a month (Spring and Summer). Due to its unusually quick growth, use a balanced fertilizer at half the recommended dilution level for this plant. To prevent fertilizer from scorching the roots, moisten the potting medium moderately if it is extremely dry before feeding.
  • Repotting: Because of how quickly these plants develop, you should be prepared to conduct some occasional repotting. Early spring is the best time to do this because the plant has a period of active growth ahead of it. Repotting is required when roots start to “circle” around the nursery pot’s base. At this point, just a few centimeters should be added to the pot’s size.
  • Pruning: Mini monsteras like having their stems cut down when they become especially long. Trim a few centimeters below a leaf node that preferably has an aerial root underneath it with a sterile blade (bobbly bit that looks like a root forming). then begin to spread! (See under)
  • There are two ways this can happen. The cuttings can either be planted straight in coco chips or left to root in water for a few weeks (for lots of aeration). If the plant is in water, don’t pot it on until the roots are a few centimeters long. Make sure to water frequently if you are cooking directly into coco chips.