Why Do Some Monstera Leaves Not Split

The rate of leaf fenestration increases with plant age. If a mature Monstera is not splitting, attention is not being given to the plant to the same extent as it would in its natural environment. Monstera may fail to split as a result of inadequate lighting, poor soil drainage, and inadequate dietary requirements.

How do you induce leaf splitting in monstera?

With all the fenestrations they have previously created, monstera leaves unroll. An already split leaf cannot develop further splits. As a result, if you notice cracks or tears in a Monstera leaf, they are probably structural damage rather than the beginnings of a split leaf. Additionally, if the humidity is too low, leaves may occasionally split as they unfold (see our humidity guide). What to do with damaged Monstera leaves is also described here.

The faster your monstera develops, the sooner it will get fenestrated leaves. Creating the ideal growing environment is the best method to promote this. The following things can be made better if your Monstera leaves haven’t split yet:

  • Light Your houseplants will develop more quickly if you increase the amount of light they receive. Bright light will cause your Monstera to split more quickly. See our guide to the best grow lights for Monstera.
  • Water
  • Your Monstera will grow if the right amount of water is provided. Your plants become thirsty with rapid growth! View the irrigation manual here.
  • Fertilizer If you want your Monstera to grow quickly, make sure it has the nutrients it requires. Read more about the fertilizers we advise using on your Monstera plant.
  • Support
  • The leaves will split more quickly if you give your Monstera a support—say, a moss pole—and allow it to climb. How to put supports next to your Monstera, with more information on supports.

This moss pole is a great tool for your Monstera’s growth. To make a taller pole, they can be stacked! To view the current pricing, click the image or link.

Does monstera come in varieties that don’t split?

Monsteras, or Swiss Cheese Plants, are well-known for their lush, split leaves. However, there are some circumstances in which your monstera’s leaves might not be splitting or developing any holes.

While not always the case, this frequently indicates that your monstera is having trouble adjusting to its surroundings. These are the most typical problems, according to our research, if you notice that your monstera isn’t generating split leaves; Plant maturity, inadequate lighting, seasonal fluctuations, or improper watering.

Are split leaves present on all monstera plants?

After two to three years, monstera leaves split. Anything earlier will keep the leaf’s heart-shaped appearance.

If your monstera leaves do not split immediately, do not become alarmed. As they develop or mature, they frequently split. Due to the remarkable adaptations produced by the evolutionary process, fenestrated leaves divide.

The tall, thickly leafed plants known as monsteras are indigenous to southern Mexico. Monsteras grown in a domestic environment can reach heights of up to 8 feet, while those found in their natural habitat often reach far greater heights.

How can you make monstera have more slits?

The absence of holes in the leaves of your young plant may indicate that it is premature and needs to mature more. If it doesn’t split spontaneously, there could not be enough sunshine. Place it where it will receive bright, indirect light. Additionally, you ought to establish a regular and consistent watering routine. You may also encourage the formation of holes in your Monstera Deliciosa by removing older leaves or using a fertilizer that is balanced.

Why doesn’t my Monstera fenestrate?

My neighborhood grocery store is where I got my first Monstera deliciosa. Although it was a small plant, I didn’t mind because I was so happy to have found it. I brought it home and couldn’t wait for the day when it would grow enormous leaves with all of their distinctive splits and slits. I waited and waited, but the plant still had little leaves with no fenestration. I then began to question if Monsteras divided in all cases. What may I do to aid in fenestrating it? I dug around till I found the solution.

If your Monstera’s leaves aren’t splitting, it usually comes down to two things: how old the plant is and how much sunlight it receives. Unripe Monsteras won’t fenestrate until they are roughly three years old. Monsteras may also be unable to produce fenestrations if there is insufficient sunlight.

If you don’t know much about Monsteras, you probably have never heard of fenestration. I’ll go over all there is to know about fenestrations in this essay. I’ll discuss their proposed use, when to look for them to emerge, and how to induce fenestration in your Monstera leaves.

Option 1: Wait

Depending on how young and little your monstera plant is, you might just need to give it some time.

Young monsteras almost resemble a distinct plant because of their sturdy, heart-shaped leaves. Your monstera should grow and finally form those lovely holes and splits on its own when it is between two and three years old with adequate light, the proper quantity of water, and a little fertilizer. Be tolerant!

Option 2: More light!

This is typically the most crucial thing you can do to encourage your monstera leaves to split. However, without plenty of bright, indirect sunlight, monsteras won’t grow much or produce many splits (or numerous rows of splits), even though they can survive in reduced light. Your monstera leaves might not split even if you follow all other instructions to the letter without the proper light.

If you buy a mature monstera with split leaves, lower light may work, especially if you don’t want it to grow much bigger and take over your house (since monsteras often do!).

However, you’ll need good lighting if you have a young plant that you want to observe develop and flourish. The best windows are those that face east or south, while north can still be used. Just be extremely careful around windows that face west since they often receive a lot of direct, scorching afternoon light that might burn the leaves.

Don’t worry if your home lacks excellent illumination. A grow light can always be used as a supplement. To replace greenhouse-style lights that you may get from nurseries, you can either purchase ready-made grow lights or install grow bulbs in standard light fixtures.

What distinguishes a split leaf philodendron from a monstera?

Nearly 500 different species of Philodendron exist, each with a unique appearance. Because of this, it can be challenging to identify a Philodendron plant in a way that “fits all.” But the name itself has one hint.

What’s in a Name?

The word “philodendron” is Greek in origin. Combining the words “philo,” which means “love,” and “dendron,” which means “tree,” creates this term. Philodendrons enjoy climbing trees to reach the top canopy, where they have better access to light, using their aerial roots. These aerial roots can grow on even kinds that don’t appear to be climbers, as the Philodendron Prince of Orange.

Falling Cataphylls

Although philodendron leaves vary in a variety of sizes and forms, they always share cataphyll. This is a tiny, modified leaf that guards the developing new leaves.

When the leaves develop, this cataphyll will fall off in the case of vining Philodendrons like Philodendron micans or the heartleaf Philodendron. With other varieties, especially epiphytic Philodendrons, the cataphyll will dry out but will remain on the plantlike a Monstera.

Philodendron Varieties That Look Like Monstera

Given the diversity of species, it is only expected that some will exhibit characteristics that are more frequently seen in Monsteras.

These repeat offenders are listed:

  • It can be very simple to confuse split-leaf philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), which is frequently sold under the name Monstera deliciosa. The two differ in terms of the size and shape of the leaves. The philodendron has smaller, divided leaves as opposed to fenestrated leaves. In contrast to Monstera leaves, which are round and heart-shaped, they also resemble feathers.
  • Philodendron minima is a challenging plant to grow. It is frequently identified in the plant trade under names like “mini monstera” because of its oval-shaped, split leaves that resemble those of a Monstera. But it’s neither a Monstera nor a Philodendron with holes. It is a member of the Rhaphidophora genus and is known by the scientific name Rhaphidophora tetrasperma.

Monstera Albo Borsigiana

Despite some claims to the contrary, Monstera Deliciosa and Borsigiana belong to the same species.

One of the most well-known Monstera variegata has grown in popularity as a result of Instagram.

Large white patches will appear on the foliage of M. Albo Borsigiana due to a spontaneous mutation that causes the variegation. These spots are erratic and prone to become green again.

Depending on how many leaves it has, a single Monstera Albo Borsigiana cutting is worth approximately $250, while a rooted plant can range in price from $400 to $1,000.

Monstera Thai Constellation

This common house plant was created using plant tissue culture in a lab in Thailand and has undergone artificial mutation.

It is one of the most desired plants due to its lovely variation in sectoral and marble patterns. As a plant that was grown in tissue culture, the variegation is quite stable and will be passed on to new leaves as they develop.

Although a rooted Monstera Thai Constellation can cost anywhere between $250 and $350, I’ve never seen Thai Constellation advertised as a cutting.

Monstera Deliciosa Aurea

The yellow variegation of Monstera Deliciosa Aurea, also called Monstera Marmorata, gives it the look of a Golden Pothos.

It also needs regular maintenance to keep its sectoral pattern variegation. To maintain the variegation, immediately cut any leaves that have turned green.

Because it is so uncommon, Monstera Deliciosa’s Aurea variant commands a high price. Costs for rooted plants range from $2,000 to $3,000.

Is It Possible for Regular Monstera to Develop Variegation?

Regular Monstera can eventually show variegation, though it is rare. One of my friend’s Monstera Deliciosa cuttings was fortunate enough to begin displaying Albo variegation.

Only one in 100,000 plants will randomly produce a variegated Monstera. This means that in order to obtain a variegated Monstera, you would need to propagate 100,000 cuttings and hope that one of them would show the trait.

Which Monstera is the rarest?

Because of their genetic peculiarities, unusual Monstera plants are not only scarce but also amazing to behold.

These Monsteras are difficult to raise due to their unique genetic makeup. Monstera plants with holes or variegation cannot absorb as much nutrition as a typical Monstera species.

A mutation gives certain variegated Monsteras variegated leaves. Certain Monsteras revert due to a mutation rather than genetic variation.

If the conditions are not ideal, mutations prevent the white or cream hue from eventually being passed on to new leaf growth.

It’s not easy importing plants either, particularly unusual ones. Variegated and holey plants are less likely to survive a lengthy voyage in a dark box because they contain less chlorophyll.

Each country has distinct rules for what plant material is allowed into its country, and shipping expenses pile up.

If you see any of these 22 unique and rare Monstera plants for sale, grab them and head to the register right away!

Monstera obliqua

The most rare Monstera is Monstera obliqua, which has delicate leaves and grows very slowly.

With more holes than actual leaves, Monstera obliqua takes the Swiss cheese plant to an extreme.

The distinctions between Monstera obliqua and Monstera adansonii have a significant impact on the respective price tags for each plant.

Monstera obliqua has papery thin leaves, rounder holes, and a significantly slower growth rate than Monstera adansonii. It is also more uncommon.

Why do my cheese plant’s holes not exist?

According to study by a US scientist, the plants’ well-known hole-riddled leaves enable them to collect sunlight more frequently, helping them to live in dark rainforests.

According to the BBC Nature, they are typically grown as house plants but can also be found in the wild from southern Mexico to Colombia.

One is that by allowing the wind to pass through, the holes in the leaves help the plants withstand hurricane gusts. Another benefit is that they enable better temperature control or water to reach the roots of the plants.

Some have hypothesized that the holes conceal the plants from herbivores in some way.

Christopher Muir’s research at the University of Indiana in Bloomington, US, led to the hypothesis that the holes are a result of the plants’ adaptation to their rainforest environment.

Monstera deliciosa, a species of Swiss cheese plant, resides in the gloomy tropical rainforest understory. In order to photosynthesise for energy, it depends on collecting erratic shafts of sunlight known as “sunflecks.”

Muir compared leaves with and without holes using mathematical models because he doubted that the sunflecks could account for the peculiar leaf forms.

He discovered that the same amount of sunlight has an equal positive impact on both leaf forms.

A leaf with holes will miss some sunlight because it filters through them, but solid leaves with the same surface area actually occupy less space, which limits their availability to sunshine.

According to Muir’s simulations, a leaf with the same surface area but numerous holes would come into touch with sunlight more frequently since it occupies more space.

He proposed that by maintaining this consistency, the changing leaf form becomes more dependable, reducing stress on the plant and increasing its chances of survival.

However, Muir asserts that immature Swiss cheese plants don’t require holes in their leaves.

At different times during its life cycle, the monstera deliciosa grows in a different way. It is an epiphyte, sometimes known as an air plant.

Young plants are located closer to the forest floor, where sunlight penetration is lower. Muir predicted that because the light in this area is of poor quality, holes do not help the plant.

The plant only becomes higher as it ages, reaching areas of the understorey with more sunflecks.

The leaves then get bigger, get holes, and are held away from the trunk so they have a greater chance of getting the sunshine they need to thrive.