I’ve received a lot of urgent inquiries from folks regarding cultivating Monstera deliciosa, so I’m here to help! I’ve prepared solutions to 14 urgent, frequently asked questions that will prevent your plant from dying and promote the growth of your Monstera!
Aerial roots, growth issues, and diverse leaf flaws are just a few of the topics covered. You might discover the solution to one of your queries if you continue reading!
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Can Monstera deliciosa live in water?
Hydroponically, virtually any plant can be grown. But you require more than simply water. A complete fertilizer, such as Dyna-Gro Grow, should be added.
This fertilizer can be used for foliar feeding, hydroponics, and watering your soil. The packaging advises adding 1 teaspoon of Dyna-Gro Grow to a gallon of water for non-recirculating systems for hydroponically growing plants.
They advise using 2-3 tablespoons per gallon if you have a sophisticated system that circulates the water.
Does Monstera need a lot of light?
You shouldn’t typically anticipate your plant to thrive if it is not placed right in front of a window. The better, the larger the window. Additionally, the better, the closer to the window.
Mine is positioned as near to my window as it can get without the leaves brushing the glass. When you move merely one or two steps away, the light intensity decreases suddenly.
A window’s proximity can make a significant difference. These naturally thrive in shaded or filtered light, while some sun is acceptable.
However, I wouldn’t put these plants in direct sunlight. My enormous Eastern window is operating flawlessly. Western exposure is also acceptable.
If your window is a good size, north will also be effective. You might need to use blinds to block off the light from southern exposure because it might be too much sun.
However, it’s crucial to keep your plant as near a window as you can without touching it.
How can I make Monstera grow faster?
I’ve been asked by a lot of people why their plants aren’t flourishing, and the answer is LIGHT.
The care of plants cannot be rushed. Place your Monstera in a bright area for the quickest growth—it must be directly in front of a window!
Warm temperatures, a great, well-drained potting media, and excellent fertilizer are additional requirements.
For a complete list of the conditions that these plants require, including a fantastic potting soil formulation to speed up growth, see my Monstera deliciosa care post. I also cover repotting and how to use my unique support system to help your Monstera deliciosa.
The fertilizer Dyna-Gro Grow comes highly recommended. It is my go-to all-purpose, premium fertilizer and I use it on all of my tropical plants. You won’t be let down!
Check out my comprehensive piece that will address your issues if your Monstera is simply not growing: Why Your Monstera Isn’t Growing: 9 Vital Factors.
Can you cut Monstera air roots off?
In the wild, Monsteras may scale trees using their aerial roots. Over time, you’ll notice that your plant will grow a lot of air roots.
I’d advise leaving them alone if at all possible unless they are a big pain in the neck or are blocking your path. If some of the roots are getting in the way, they can be cut back.
You can also try to reroute the aerial roots so that they might begin to establish themselves in the ground.
Give it time if your plant lacks aerial roots. They won’t start to show up till a specific age of the plant.
Check read my post on Monstera Aerial Roots for a thorough explanation of the subject and the answers to many frequently asked questions.
Inconsistent Soil Moisture
Your leaves may be turning brown at the very tips if the soil is drying out too much overall or if it is being watered inconsistently and improperly.
Never allow the soil to entirely dry out. And when you do water, be sure to water deeply to prevent any soil patches from drying out. This is very significant!
There are additional causes for brown tips, so be sure to read my comprehensive page on Monstera brown tips, which covers a number of causes and remedies.
Brown patches on the leaves of your plant with a yellow “halo around the brown spot” are a classic sign of a fungus.
The Instagram user who posted the image above recently bought her plant from a big-box hardware shop. When she bought the plant, she had stated that it was extremely damp.
Long-term, overly damp circumstances, especially when combined with poor air circulation, are conducive to fungus growth. If you’re buying a plant from a nursery that doesn’t take good care of its plants, proceed with extreme caution.
It is preferable if you identify any fungal leaf spots on your plant early and remove any affected leaves. To be safe, avoid misting the foliage for a time.
There are other potential causes for your plant’s brown, crispy leaves in addition to these two primary causes.
Searching for a Monstera to buy? Visit Etsy to see the Monstera assortment (link to Etsy). On Etsy, you can pretty much find any kind of plant, making it a fantastic one-stop store for plants.
How often should I water Monstera deliciosa?
One of the most frequent inquiries I receive is this one. “How frequently should I water [fill in any plant]?
For a plant that is growing in soil, the answer is… it depends! Because it all depends on your circumstances, I am unable to tell you how frequently.
Should you remove the Monstera’s brown tips?
Your Monstera should have any damaged leaves removed. Trimming dead leaves helps your plant’s health in addition to improving its appearance.
- Unable to photosynthesize are dead leaves. Any brown or black areas on your Monstera’s leaves are no longer able to supply the plant with energy.
- Dead leaf sections have no protection against rot and infection in comparison to healthy leaves. Dead plant cells provide nutrients that are consumed by bacteria and fungi. For instance, you can notice mold growing on dead leaves that have been left on the plant or in the soil. To help defend the remainder of the plant against these diseases, remove any dark or damaged tissue.
It is possible that only the ripped edge of a leaf will become brown to seal a cut if there is only very minimal damage, such as accidently ripping or torn a portion of the leaf. Leave minor imperfections alone if they don’t affect other parts of the plant or interfere with your pleasure of the plant’s aesthetics.
Monstera damage to the roots and stems can be more serious than damage to the leaves because it prevents the plant from transporting water and nutrients. Visit our soon-to-be-available guides on stem damage and root rot.
How can brown leaf tips be fixed?
Don’t be fooled by how dry and thirsty brown leaf tips appear to be! Your plant might not even need water. Simple botanical investigation can assist identify the source of the issue. Just carry out the following actions:
1. Take a peek at what’s underground firsthand.
Diagnose the issue by observing what’s happening with weak roots. Although it is simpler with potted plants than with in-ground, landscape plants, a detailed inspection from below is still necessary.
Turn brown-tipped houseplants on their side and gently remove the plant by the base to coax it out of the pot. Most plants are simple to remove. Work it loose carefully if yours sticks. Don’t worry about damaging your plant; this is a common practice among experienced growers.
Avoid completely digging up landscape plants. Instead, concentrate on a specific area. Start at a location where rain drips down to the ground between the plant’s main stem or trunk and the outside border of its leaf canopy. To get a good look at what’s happening in the soil, drill a hole that is 6 to 12 inches deep. Dig multiple holes for larger plants to determine whether any issues appear to be widespread.
2. Check your drainage and dirt.
The soil around plants should typically feel cool and damp to the touch, whether they are safely tucked up in a living room nook or left out in the elements. Plants should never sit in water unless they are native to marshlands or aquatic plants. Whether they are in the ground or pots, roots require air to survive. drowning roots shut down and rot in wet soil, and new roots cannot grow. Plant tips turn brown from thirst if the roots are not strong and able to carry and absorb water.
The soil around the roots of a houseplant should keep its form and not drip water when it is removed from its pot. To ensure that water flows through if the soil is very wet, look for clogged drainage holes and clean them. To make sure you’re not watering your plants excessively, adjust your watering schedule accordingly.
If the dirt in your houseplants crumbles or takes on a hard, dry shape, water isn’t getting to the right places. To the point that water flows down the sides and entirely misses roots, soil might harden or peel away from the sides of pots. To maintain water flowing into the roots, break up any crust and push the dirt back up against the side of the container.
Landscape plants can be grown using the same techniques. If the soil in the planting area is excessively moist, either you or nature overwatered it or the soil is poorly drained. You haven’t watered enough or your soil is draining too quickly if your soil is hard, crusty, or exceptionally dry.
Dig a hole that is 12 inches deep and full of soil to test the landscape drainage. Completely let it drain, then quickly refill it with 12 inches of water. To determine how much water drains per hour, measure the depth of the water at 15-minute intervals. Your soil stays far too wet if less than 1 inch drains per hour. One to six inches per hour is ideal, but more than six inches per hour implies that water evaporates too quickly, depriving your plants of the nutrients they require. 1
If your planting area requires soil amendments, such as Lilly Miller Garden Gypsum to loosen compacted clay soils and improve water and root penetration or earthworm castings to increase organic matter and improve the soil’s ability to hold water and nutrients, soil testing can help you make this determination. Before planting in new outdoor spaces, it is always a good idea to examine the soil.
3. Pay particular attention to the roots.
The condition of their roots and their surroundings can be deduced from their roots. With a few colorful exceptions, healthy roots are white, firm, and smell fresh and earthy. Gray or brown roots typically smell like rot and are dead or dying from too much water, opportunistic illnesses, and damp soil.
Roots cannot be repaired once they become brittle and decay. We need new roots to take hold. Remove rotten roots from indoor plants before repotting them in fresh potting soil for a new start. You can use the same procedure for small garden and landscape plants, but you might require expert assistance with huge plants, such as landscape trees and large bushes. You can get advice on the best course of action from your county extension agent.
For landscape or container plants, roots that wind back on or around themselves can indicate danger. The state of being “root bound” is brought on by these circling or binding roots. This commonly occurs in containers that the plants outgrow or that weren’t big enough when they were first planted.
Established plants in pots should have roots that reach to the soil line but never wrap completely inside the pot. The remaining soil in pots cannot contain enough water to meet the demand if they are encircled by roots. Root-bound plants should be repotted into larger containers, but before doing so, gently release the roots with your hand. In this manner, roots might spread into fresh soil.
Ordinarily, landscape plants don’t have issues with bound roots unless the issue existed at the time of planting or the soil’s composition prevents regular, natural growth. This issue can be avoided in your landscape by conducting a soil test, adding the proper nutrients, and using a strong but gentle touch to break up any binding roots prior to planting.
4. Check for evidence of salt buildup or fertilizer residue.
When subjected to excessive fertilizer and salt buildup in the soil, plant tips may turn brown. Fertilizer burn, often referred to as tip burn, causes the tips of potted plants to turn brown when this occurs. The same issue occurs in landscape plants due to excessive fertilizer use or other elements like pet urine or winter deicing chemicals. Soluble salts accumulate in soil both inside and outside, depriving plant roots of hydration and causing an unnatural drought. Water-stressed plant tips consequently turn brown.
Salt buildup in indoor plants manifests as a white crust on the soil, saucers, and sides of permeable pots. Salts are forced out of the soil by heavily watering it, which also helps the environment around the roots return to normal. Simply place the pot in the bathtub or sink and water it until the soil is well saturated. Repeat the procedure multiple times to fully cleanse the dirt.
Don’t wait for the tips to turn brown if landscaping plants are subjected to overfertilization, salt from the road, or heavy pet use. To clear the soil and avoid tip burn, water plants liberally and frequently. The vigorous watering removes salt deposits. Plants may have been exposed over the winter if they begin to develop brown tips as the soil thaws in the spring. As soon as possible, heavily water the soil.
Feeding plants with a non-burning fertilizer, such as Alaska 5-1-1, will prevent fertilizer burn and will provide gentle, health-improving nutrients without hazardous buildup.
5. Stay on course with recuperating plants.
Adjust your care, especially watering, to keep your plants moving in the correct way once they are back on the road to health. Whether your plants are in a container or the ground, never water them automatically. To test the soil manually, dig down to the depth of your index finger. Wait a few days and recheck if it feels damp. Watering should be done if the soil seems dry. Allow tap water to sit overnight if you plan to water indoor plants with it. Fluoride and other elements that may contribute to brown tips are lessened as a result.
When watered deeply and sparingly, most plants in your house and garden will remain healthy. When watering indoor plants, make sure the entire soil is moist. After a brief period of drying, water the plants once more. A saucer loaded with pebbles at the base of the plant can assist maintain the proper balance of tips and moisture if the humidity in your environment is very low.
Most outdoor plants require the equivalent of at least one inch of rainfall per week, including natural precipitation, during active development seasons. This equates to around 5 gallons of water per square yard when watering. Even on huge landscape trees, the majority of the roots remain in the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In most soils, one inch of water seeps down to that depth, supplying healthy roots with nutrients and hydrating leaf tips. 1
6. Dispose of the proof.
You don’t need brown tips to serve as a reminder of the past when your plant care regimen is working and your plants are progressing toward excellent health. As the seasons change, landscape plants will take care of the issue, but potted indoor plants could use some assistance.
Take advice from experienced interior designers.
the people who put brown tips behind you and take care of the indoor plants in stores and businesses. Cut away the brown, dead portions with sharp scissors. Just adhere to the leaf’s organic contour. As your plant grows, the cut will still have a small brown line, but the remainder of the leaf will remain healthy and green.
Your plants can switch their brown-tipped leaves for strong, healthy ones with a little inquiry, the required repairs, and continued care. You and your plants may go back on the path to good plant health and natural beauty with the aid of the Pennington line of plant care products.
The Central Garden & Pet Company is the registered owner of the trademark Alaska. The registered trademark Pennington belongs to Pennington Seed, Inc.
1. “Soil Basics” from the Cornell University Department of Horticulture.