, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as
Where should I cut Monstera so that it can grow in water?
You must locate a node in order to cut a Monstera. Somewhere in the bottom two-thirds of the stem will be a node.
There is typically a swelling hump, and occasionally an aerial root is just beginning to emerge from it (looks like a little brown bump).
Another simple way to locate a node is in the “intersection” of two stems, which is where nodes typically appear.
Slice off a piece of skin 2 inches below the node using very sharp scissors, shears, or a box cutter.
Remove any more stems or sheathing from growing leaves after collecting your trimming.
In order to avoid additional rotting, you should aim for one long stem and avoid any extra foliage.
How do you cut Monstera cuttings?
Stem cuttings are the preferred method of monstera propagation. Cuttings from Swiss cheese plants are simple to root. When using cuttings, you can either root them in water first or just bury them in the ground. Cuttings should be made immediately following a leaf node, with the bottom-most leaves removed.
Then, either partially bury the swiss cheese plant cuttings in the soil itself or root them in water for a few weeks before transplanting to a pot. There is no requirement for rooting hormone because they root so readily.
Expect no new leaf growth.
Monstera plants cannot develop from a single leaf cutting, unlike certain other plants like Sansevieria (Snake plant) and cactus.
Monstera plants grown without nodes will, regrettably, be unable to produce new leaf growth.
It lacks the tissue needed for cell division and the development of new leaves.
The leaf can survive without a node.
To keep turgid and fresh, the leaf will continue to absorb water by osmosis.
However, it must be situated in the optimal climate to prevent overheating and excessive transpiration, which would cause the leaf to wither.
How are the aerial roots of Monstera cut?
Your Monstera naturally has aerial roots. No need to chop them off, please. As long as you use a clean, sharp blade and cut them back if they are blocking the path, it is acceptable.
The main plant of your Monstera won’t suffer if the aerial roots are cut off. These roots are designed to ascend, not to absorb nourishment.
For additional information on what to do with the aerial roots of your Monstera, keep reading!
Can you submerge aerial roots of Monstera in water?
I’ve seen several sources advise you to put a bowl of water in the planter for your Monster deliciosa and trail its aerial roots in there. According to the theory, this is because aerial roots may actually absorb moisture. However, submerging them in water nonstop won’t likely accomplish much more than cause them to deteriorate and perhaps put your plant in risk.
However, you can frequently spray the aerial roots of your Monstera. Again, there is no scientific evidence that this makes a significant difference, but it won’t hurt. In addition, since these tropical plants prefer their surroundings to be moist, make sure the air humidity is not too low.
Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any additional queries regarding Monstera aerial roots or if you would want to discuss your own interactions with these magnificent tropical houseplants.
Can You Propagate a Leaf Without a Node?
Simply put, no. For your cutting to produce new leaves, it MUST have a node.
You’ve certainly drooled over stunning images of a single monstera leaf in a lovely glass vase of clear water on Instagram and in home décor magazines.
The bad news is that even while a leaf without a node might develop some roots, it will still only be a leaf with roots. It won’t develop into a new monstera plant with stalks or additional leaves. There will never be more than one leaf.
The node is essential for propagation since it stores all of the genetic data required to develop a new plant.
Do All Monstera Leaves Have Nodes?
Nodes are little bumps that develop on the side of your monstera’s stem that is not covered by a leaf, not even on the stems of the leaves.
Your monstera’s vine develops nodes. In fact, because it hasn’t matured sufficiently, a young monstera may not have any nodes yet. Your monstera may not yet be mature enough to propagate from cuttings if it appears as though leaves are sprouting directly out of the soil. (However, if it’s big enough, you might be able to propagate it using separation!)
Most of your plant’s leaves will be accompanied by a node on the other side of the stem once it begins to vine.
Can You Propagate Leafless Nodes?
So, while you CANNOT propagate a node without a leaf, you CAN propagate a leaf without a node!
Online vendors may provide leafless, unrooted nodes for sale. But the success rate won’t be as high as when you propagate cuttings with one or two leaves.
How long does a Monstera cutting take to take root?
After 3-5 weeks, the roots from your cuttings should start to grow. The new roots should be at least an inch long; this is the primary thing you want to check for. Your cutting is prepared to be planted into a pot once it develops several roots that size.
Is it possible to grow Monstera without leaves?
A Monstera stem node can grow without a leaf. Only the plant’s food is produced by the leaves. Just make sure it’s in good shape. Even its green skin can provide some nourishment.
Where on a monstera plant is the node?
If you are an over-thinker (how deep, how long, what soil, where, when, how??) like me and the phrase “simply bung it in a pot” makes you nervous, don’t worry! I also have you.
Make yourself comfortable and prepare to relax as I thoroughly address all of your concerns and questions below with a ton of pictures.
What parts of a Monstera will propagate?
Stem cuttings make it very simple to reproduce monstera. You must choose stem sections that have at least one node when choosing stem.
New leaves and roots will form at the nodes, which are circular rings that are brownish in color and are located where a leaf once was on the stem. One leaf and several roots can be supported by each nodal area.
- A stem segment that is 20 cm long and has two to three nodes provides many opportunities for the emergence of new roots and leaves; the longer the segment, the more energy it has available to fuel new shoots.
- I have propagated from pieces as tiny as 5 cm long, with one node.
- The node is where new development, such as roots, might arise if a section of stem has a leaf emerging from it. Your existing leaf’s petiole will sprout new leaves on that portion.
What parts of Monstera won’t propagate
Not all of the components of your Monstera plant will reproduce to produce new Monstera offspring. This comprises:
- unconnected leaves without a stem
- roots or aerial roots that are not linked to stems
- stem devoid of leaves and no nodes
What will help a Monstera cutting establish quickly?
The cutting will establish itself in its own right more quickly the more portions of the plant it contains. As a result, while choosing where to cut, attempt to include:
- One or more leaves, as these contribute to the plant’s increased growth potential and quicker establishment.
- aerial roots or roots. In water or soil, aerial roots will produce ordinary roots as offshoots, which will improve the plant’s capacity to absorb nutrients and water. It’s typical for the thick, brown outer layer of the aerial roots to slough off, so don’t be alarmed.
Just keep in mind that nodes must be present on some piece of the stem; otherwise, trying to plant a leaf will fail.
Where on a plant is the node?
Stems carry food, water, and nutrients while supporting buds and leaves (photosynthates).
Stems carry food, water, and nutrients while supporting buds and leaves (photosynthates). The stem’s internal vascular system creates a continuous conduit from the root, through the stem, and out to the leaves. The movement of water and food goods occurs through this system.
- A shoot is a young, leafy stem that is no older than one year.
- A young stem (one year or younger) that is in the dormant winter stage is referred to as a twig (has no leaves).
- Branch: A stem that is older than one year, usually with radiating lateral stems.
- Trunk: The main stem of a woody plant.
Xylem, phloem, and vascular cambium make up this system. It can be compared to the plumbing of a plant. Xylem tubes transport dissolved minerals and water. Phloemtubes transport nutrients like glucose.
Separating the xylem and phloem is a layer of meristematic tissue known as the cambium. It consistently generates fresh xylem and phloem cells. The thickening of a stem is caused by this additional tissue.
For gardeners, the vascular cambium is crucial. The tissues on a grafted scion and rootstock, for instance, must align. Furthermore, irresponsible weed trimming might cause a tree’s bark to be removed. This could harm the cambium and result in the death of the tree.
Differential vascular systems exist in monocots and dicots (figure 5). Although xylem and phloem are present in both, their arrangements vary.
- The xylem and phloem are coupled in bundles in monocots. The stem is covered in these bundles in various locations.
- Because the vascular system of a dicot forms rings inside the stem, it is said to be continuous. In mature woody stems, the ring of phloem is found close to the bark and finally fuses with the bark. The inner ring is formed by the xylem. It is referred to as sapwood and heartwood in woody plants.
Gardeners are interested in the differences between the vascular systems of monocots and dicots for practical reasons. Only one group is impacted by some herbicides. For instance, 2,4-D only kills plants that have an ongoing vascular system (dicots). On the other hand, nonselective herbicides (like glyphosate) damage plants regardless of their vascular system type.
On a stem, a node is where the buds are found (figure 6). It is a location of intense cellular activity and expansion. Small buds grow into leaves, stalks, or flowers in this region.
It’s crucial to find a plant’s nodes before pruning. In general, a pruning cut should be made slightly above a node, but not too close. This kind of pruning promotes the buds at that node to start growing. It will eventually grow new stems or leaves.
An internode is the region that lies between two nodes. Genetics is just one of the numerous elements that affect how long it is. Internode length can also be influenced by the following factors:
- Internode length reduces with decreased soil fertility. On the other hand, using high-nitrogen fertilizer can significantly raise it.
- Lack of light lengthens internodes and results in a stem that is spindly. Stretch or etiolation is the term for this circumstance. It frequently happens to indoor-started seedlings and poorly-lit houseplants.
- The season also affects internode length. Internodes in early-season growth are lengthy. Late-season growth, in comparison, typically has significantly shorter internodes.
- The energy of a stem can be distributed among three or four side stems or directed toward fruit development. The internode length is condensed in this instance.
- Herbicides and chemicals that regulate plant growth can also affect internode length.
Types of stems
Long stems are possible, and the spaces between the leaves and buds are often wide. Tree branches and strawberry runners are two examples. Other stems are compact, with few buds or leaves between them. Fruit spurs, strawberry plant crowns, and African violets are a few examples.
Typically, stems develop above ground. They can also occasionally be seen growing underground as rhizomes, tubers, corms, or bulbs. For something to be considered stem tissue, it must always have buds or leaves.
Specialized aboveground stems
Specialized above-ground stems called crowns, spurs, or stolons are present in some plants (figure 7).
- African violets, dandelions, and strawberries all have compressed stems as their crowns. They have short internodes with leaves and flowers.
- Spurs are lateral stems that grow from a main stem and are short and stubby. They are the stems of pear, apple, and cherry trees that bear fruit. Fruit-bearing spurs may transform back into nonfruiting stems if vigorous pruning is performed close to them. The potential fruit crop for the year would be destroyed.
- Elongated, horizontal stems that are fleshy or semiwoody are called stolons. They frequently lie on top of the earth. Stolons with tiny leaves at the nodes are strawberry runners. From these nodes, roots sprout, and a daughter plant is created. The size of a strawberry patch can be easily increased by this form of vegetative reproduction. Additionally, stolons from spider plants have the potential to develop into completely new plants.
Specialized belowground stems
The underground stems of tulip bulbs, iris rhizomes, and potato tubers store sustenance for the plant (figure 8). Sometimes it might be challenging to tell the difference between stems and roots, but looking for nodes is a surefire method. Roots lack nodes while stems do.
For instance, the “eyes” of potato tubers are actually the nodes of the stem. There are a number of buds in each eye. It’s crucial that each potato seed piece have at least one eye and be around the size of a golf ball when developing potatoes from seed pieces. This will guarantee that roots and shoots have adequate energy to grow quickly.
Because they spread horizontally from plant to plant, rhizomes resemble stolons. There are some compressed, meaty rhizomes (for example, iris). Others have elongated internodes and are thin (for example, bentgrass). Johnsongrass’ capacity to spread via its rhizomes is a key factor in its reputation as a sneaky pest.
Onions, daffodils, tulips, and lilies all produce bulbs. These underground stems are condensed, shorter, and covered in fleshy scales (leaves) that enclose a central bud at the stem’s apex. Cut a tulip or daffodil bulb in half in November to see the entire blossom in miniature.
A bulb-producing plant’s phloem moves food stores from its leaves to the scales of the bulb when it blooms. The bulb uses the food it has stored as it starts to grow in the spring.
Daffodils, tulips, and other plants that produce bulbs should therefore not have their leaves removed until they have gone yellow and withered. They have completed creating the food needed for the flowering of the following year at that point.
- Onions, daffodils, and other tunicate bulbs have a thin, papery coating. Actually, this covering is a leaf that has been altered. It aids in preventing the bulb from being damaged while being dug up and from drying out once it is removed from the ground.
- The nontunicate bulbs, like lilies, lack this papery coating. Handle them cautiously because they are prone to damage and drying out.
Another type of underground stem is the corm. Although stem tissue is present in both bulbs and corms, they are not the same. Although they resemble bulbs in form, corms lack soft scales. The stiff, inflated stem known as a corm has few, scale-like leaves. Corms are produced by gladioli and crocuses.
Some plants (such tuberous begonias and cyclamen, for example) create an altered underground stem structure known as a tuberous stem. These stems are enlarged, flat, and short. From the top (crown), buds and shoots appear, while from the bottom, fibrous roots spread out.
Tuberous roots are underground storage organs that are produced by other plants, such as dahlias and sweet potatoes. These organs are frequently mistaken for tubers and bulbs. They lack internodes and nodes, yet they are comprised of root tissue rather than stem tissue.
Stems and propagation
Stems are frequently used to propagate vegetative plants. Many ornamental plants can be effectively propagated by using pieces of aboveground stems that have nodes and internodes. These stem cuttings eventually grow roots and new plants.
Additionally, below-ground stems make excellent progeny tissues. Rhizomes can be cut into pieces, or you can separate baby bulblets or cormels from their parent. It is possible to cut tubers into pieces with eyes and nodes. These tissues will all result in new plant growth.
Types of plants and their stems
Trees typically have one main trunk, but occasionally they have multiple. When grown, tree trunks typically stand more than 12 feet tall. In contrast, shrubs typically have multiple main stems and, at maturity, stand no more than 12 feet tall.
The majority of shrubs, ornamental trees, and fruit trees have woody stems. The central core of these stems is largely made up of xylem tissue that has calcified (heartwood or sapwood).
Only a little amount of xylem tissue is present in herbaceous or succulent stems. They typically only have one growth season of life. Each year, perennial plants’ crowns (the point where the root and stem meet) produce new herbaceous stems.
Canes are stems with a comparatively big pith (figure 9a) (the central strength-giving tissue). They typically have a one- to two-year lifespan. Cane-bearing plants include, among others, roses, grapes, blackberries, and raspberries. Knowing which canes to prune, how to prune them, and when to prune them is crucial for fruit production.
A vine is a plant with long, trailing stems (figure 9b). Some vines spread out across the surface. Others require the support of another plant or building.
For support, twining vines around the building. some people circle clockwise (e.g., hops and honeysuckle). Other plants, such pole beans and Dutchman’s pipe vine, grow in a counterclockwise direction.
Aerial roots sustain some climbing plants (for example, English ivy and poison ivy). Others have thin tendrils around a supporting object that support them (for example, cucumbers, gourds, grapes, and passionflowers). Last but not least, some vines feature tendrils with sticky points (for example, Virginia and Japanese creeper).