Where To Cut Swiss Cheese Plant To Propagate

Seeds, stem cuttings, or suckers can all be used to multiply the Swiss cheese vine plant, though cuttings and suckers are the more typical methods.

It is simple to take Swiss cheese plant cuttings if you are wondering how to do it. Simply take stem cuttings, leaving a portion of the stem attached, by cutting immediately after a leaf node, for this Swiss cheese plant multiplication. Trim the first leaf from the cutting’s base, then put the node in the ground. If you want to, you can apply rooting hormone, but it’s not required. Water thoroughly and let the water drain away. Ideally, you might wish to root the cutting in water first, then transfer it to a pot once rooting has sufficiently started. The Swiss cheese vine cutting should be rooted in water for two to three weeks before being transplanted to a container with nutrient-rich potting soil.

Additionally, you can grow Swiss cheese plants by wrapping wet moss around the stem at a tiny aerial root and leaf axil and securing it with twine. Place this area into a transparent bag and secure the top (adding a few small air vents). The Swiss cheese vine plant should start to grow new roots in a few months.

Where should a cheese plant be clipped to reproduce?

Stem cuttings are the preferred method of monstera propagation. Cuttings from Swiss cheese plants are simple to root. When using cuttings, you can either root them in water first or just bury them in the ground. Cuttings should be made immediately following a leaf node, with the bottom-most leaves removed.

Then, either partially bury the swiss cheese plant cuttings in the soil itself or root them in water for a few weeks before transplanting to a pot. There is no requirement for rooting hormone because they root so readily.

Can you cut a cheese plant for a cutting?

Getting free plants is affordable by taking cuttings from monstera deliciosa, also known as Swiss cheese plants. The biggest notched leaves on the greatest monstera are a result of aging. The easiest approach to get a big leaved plant without spending a fortune is to have access to a friend or family who has a large leaved plant and is ready to offer you a cutting. Any plant can be used as a source for cuttings, though, and even a tiny, reasonably priced plant from the store might provide you with the chance to forego paying for any new plants you might need.

For propagation, where may I cut Monstera Adansonii?

Propagation of Monstera adansonii is not too difficult, like many other vining plants. Both water and soil can be used for this. It won’t grow as much as it would in soil, but you can leave it in water indefinitely if you like.

Monstera adansonii propagation in water

  • Use clean scissors to make a cutting with a few leaves from the mother plant, cutting about 1/4 inch below a node, to propagate Monstera adansonii in water (this means the node is included on the cutting). The new roots will emerge from the nodes.
  • Leave a few inches of stem bare by removing any bottom leaves.
  • Make sure at least one node of the cutting is submerged in the water before placing it in the glass. Inspect the leaves to make sure none are submerged.
  • The cutting should be placed where there is plenty of indirect light.
  • Make careful to replace the water when it becomes murky and to top it off when you notice the level dropping.
  • Within the first week or two, you should notice tiny roots emerging, but it can take a few weeks before you can plant your cutting into soil.
  • Transfer the cutting to its permanent pot once the roots are a few inches long. According to my observations, the roots can be transmitted over a distance of two to three inches.
  • After putting the cutting in its new pot, give it the same attention and watering that you typically would.

Monstera adansonii propagation in soil (method one)

Repeat the first step above in order to spread Monstera adansonii in soil. Here it is once more:

  • Cut a few of leaves off the mother plant using clean scissors, about a quarter-inch below a node (this means the node is included on the cutting). The new roots will emerge from the nodes.
  • Leave a few inches of stem bare by removing any bottom leaves.
  • Now, bury at least one node of the cutting by placing it directly into moistened soil as opposed to submerging it in water. No leaves should be buried.
  • As the roots grow, place the cutting in indirect light that is bright and maintain the soil moist but not damp.
  • To further lock in the advantageous humidity, you can cover the top with a transparent plastic bag. Make careful to take the bag out once day to allow for fresh air.
  • Be patient; it will take at least a few weeks before the cutting’s root system emerges and you see any new growth.
  • You can test the cutting by giving it a very light tug a few weeks later. If you encounter resistance, the roots have established, and you can proceed as you would with any other plant.

Monstera adansonii propagation in soil (method two)

Another way to propagate Monstera adansonii (and other vining plants) is to lay the entire cutting on top of the soil with the nodes all pointing downward into the soil.

Instead of leaving the vine as one continuous vine, you can also break it into smaller portions and do this; just make sure each section has a node.

  • If necessary, temporarily “fasten the vine or its portions to the ground using paper clips or bobby pins.
  • As the roots grow, place the plant in indirect light that is bright and maintain the soil moist but not soggy.

This will also help the nodes that are in contact with the soil finally take root.

Which leaves of my Monstera should I chop off?

It is advisable to to remove your Monstera entirely if the stem has broken. Cut it off at an angle as close to the stem’s base as you can using a sharp knife. Because the old, damaged stem can’t be repaired, it is preferable to let the plant focus its resources on developing new growth.

Can You Propagate a Leaf Without a Node?

Simply put, no. For your cutting to produce new leaves, it MUST have a node.

You’ve certainly drooled over stunning images of a single monstera leaf in a lovely glass vase of clear water on Instagram and in home décor magazines.

The bad news is that even while a leaf without a node might develop some roots, it will still only be a leaf with roots. It won’t develop into a new monstera plant with stalks or additional leaves. There will never be more than one leaf.

The node is essential for propagation since it stores all of the genetic data required to develop a new plant.

Do All Monstera Leaves Have Nodes?

Nodes are little bumps that develop on the side of your monstera’s stem that is not covered by a leaf, not even on the stems of the leaves.

Your monstera’s vine develops nodes. In fact, because it hasn’t matured sufficiently, a young monstera may not have any nodes yet. Your monstera may not yet be mature enough to propagate from cuttings if it appears as though leaves are sprouting directly out of the soil. (However, if it’s big enough, you might be able to propagate it using separation!)

Most of your plant’s leaves will be accompanied by a node on the other side of the stem once it begins to vine.

Can You Propagate Leafless Nodes?

So, while you CANNOT propagate a node without a leaf, you CAN propagate a leaf without a node!

Online vendors may provide leafless, unrooted nodes for sale. But the success rate won’t be as high as when you propagate cuttings with one or two leaves.

Expect no new leaf growth.

Monstera plants cannot develop from a single leaf cutting, unlike certain other plants like Sansevieria (Snake plant) and cactus.

Monstera plants grown without nodes will, regrettably, be unable to produce new leaf growth.

It lacks the tissue needed for cell division and the development of new leaves.

The leaf can survive without a node.

To keep turgid and fresh, the leaf will continue to absorb water by osmosis.

However, it must be situated in the optimal climate to prevent overheating and excessive transpiration, which would cause the leaf to wither.

How do I cut a plant for a cutting?

Softwood cuttings should be taken between mid-spring and early summer. From the middle of fall through the middle of January is when hardwood cuttings are taken.

How to take softwood cuttings

  • Fill your pots with compost and water them to get them ready for the cuttings before you take a plant cutting.
  • Early in the day, when the plant stems are still wet, take cuttings. Use cuttings as soon as possible after placing them in a plastic bag to prevent drying out.
  • If you want to take a cutting, pick a sturdy side shoot that has no flowers and cut a portion that is 5 to 10 cm (2-4 in) long, just below the leaf junction.
  • The lower half of the cutting should be completely leafless, and the growing tip should be pinched off.
  • Apply hormone rooting powder to the cutting’s bottom end. This lessens the chance of bacterial infection while assisting the cutting in growing roots.
  • Make a hole in the center of the compost with the dibber or a pencil, then insert the cutting so that the lowest pair of leaves is just above the soil’s surface. Around the cutting, compact the compost.
  • When all of the cuttings have been potted, name them, and either place them in a propagator with a bottom heat of 18–24 oC (64–75 oF) or cover each pot with a clear plastic bag and place it in an area with bright but indirect light. For ventilation, open the propagator vents every day or take the plastic bags off once a week for ten minutes.
  • Water the compost frequently to keep it moist but not soggy. Depending on the plant, the cuttings may take six to ten weeks to take root. Examine the drainage holes in the pots for any indications that the roots may be showing.
  • After the cuttings have taken root, they should be “hardened off” for two weeks by being kept inside at night and placed outside during the day.
  • Replant the cuttings in larger pots once they have hardened off so they can continue to grow until they are big enough to be planted outdoors.

How to take hardwood cuttings

  • In the fall, when the plants have lost their leaves and are dormant, take hardwood cuttings. When it’s cold outside, avoid taking cuttings.
  • Prepare a small trench outside in a protected area if you intend to take numerous cuttings. This will house the cuttings for the most of the following year. Lay a layer of sand at the bottom of the trench, then backfill it with soil that has been amended with compost to ensure proper drainage. Use containers filled with a 50/50 mixture of multipurpose compost and grit if you only need a few cuttings or don’t have room for a trench.
  • Choose a sturdy, pencil-thick woody shoot that has grown this year and cut it off just above the shoot’s base to take a plant cutting.
  • Cut the shoot into lengths of 15–30 cm (6–12 in) after removing the tip. At the top of each length, make a slanted incision slightly above a bud. This deflects rain from the cutting and serves as a helpful cue as to which end is which.
  • At the bottom of each cutting, make a straight cut right below a blossom.
  • Each cutting’s lower end should be dipped in hormone rooting powder.
  • So that one-third of each cutting is still visible above the soil’s surface, place the lower ends of the cuttings into the trench or pots. In trenches, space cuttings 15 cm (6 in) apart.
  • Till the fall after, keep the cuttings in the trench or pots. Water during dry spells to prevent the compost from drying out.
  • The cuttings can be replanted in their ultimate locations once they have developed roots.

What are the best plants to take cuttings from?

There are many appropriate plants to pick from once you understand how to take a cutting from a plant. Many delicate plants, including pelargoniums, petunias, verbena, argyranthemums, and osteospermums, respond best to softwood cuttings. Many deciduous shrubs, such as lavender, rosemary, forsythia, fuchsias, hydrangeas, lavatera, and buddleja, allow you to take softwood cuttings as well.

Most deciduous shrubs, roses, climbers like honeysuckle and grape vines, and fruit bushes like fig, gooseberry, redcurrant, and blackcurrant do well with hardwood cuttings.

It’s simple and pleasurable to add more plants to your yard by taking plant cuttings. Why not give it a try?