, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as
Where should I cut Monstera so that it can grow in water?
You must locate a node in order to cut a Monstera. Somewhere in the bottom two-thirds of the stem will be a node.
There is typically a swelling hump, and occasionally an aerial root is just beginning to emerge from it (looks like a little brown bump).
Another simple way to locate a node is in the “intersection” of two stems, which is where nodes typically appear.
Slice off a piece of skin 2 inches below the node using very sharp scissors, shears, or a box cutter.
Remove any more stems or sheathing from growing leaves after collecting your trimming.
In order to avoid additional rotting, you should aim for one long stem and avoid any extra foliage.
Expect no new leaf growth.
Monstera plants cannot develop from a single leaf cutting, unlike certain other plants like Sansevieria (Snake plant) and cactus.
Monstera plants grown without nodes will, regrettably, be unable to produce new leaf growth.
It lacks the tissue needed for cell division and the development of new leaves.
The leaf can survive without a node.
To keep turgid and fresh, the leaf will continue to absorb water by osmosis.
However, it must be situated in the optimal climate to prevent overheating and excessive transpiration, which would cause the leaf to wither.
How are Monstera leaves cut?
DO NOT CUT OFF THE TOP LEAF OF YOUR MONSTERA AT THE BASE OF THE PETIOLLE IF IT HAS BLACK SPOTS (the stalk that holds the leaf up from the main stem). The top growth point, or terminal bud, is located on the top leaf petiole. The petiole’s side has a bump where the subsequent leaf will develop if you look attentively. Leave the stalk intact and only remove the leaf, allowing your Monstera’s new growth to continue to grow.
It has already generated a new leaf from its petiole for a lower leaf. A lower leaf’s connection to the main stem can be safely severed at the bottom of the leaf. The petiole may eventually die and fall off the stem if you leave some of it connected.
Monsteras with most leaves dead
Cutting off an excessive number of leaves at once can be harmful to a Monstera plant’s ability to recuperate if the bulk of the leaves are damaged. Keep any leaves with healthy green sections since plants require them to photosynthesize. To allow the plant to continue making energy from the remaining green leaves, first only remove the leaves that are the most severely injured or completely dead. If the remaining leaves continue to deteriorate, you can remove them later.
It’s still possible to rescue your plant even if all of its leaves are dead. An axillary bud, also known as a lateral bud, will activate and branch off to create a new leaf as long as the stem and roots stay in good condition. To activate several buds, you can also cut and propagate your Monstera as stem cuttings. This method should only be used as a last resort because it will be extremely slow without leaves.
Where can you discover nodes of Monstera?
If you are an over-thinker (how deep, how long, what soil, where, when, how??) like me and the phrase “simply bung it in a pot” makes you nervous, don’t worry! I also have you.
Make yourself comfortable and prepare to relax as I thoroughly address all of your concerns and questions below with a ton of pictures.
What parts of a Monstera will propagate?
Stem cuttings make it very simple to reproduce monstera. You must choose stem sections that have at least one node when choosing stem.
New leaves and roots will form at the nodes, which are circular rings that are brownish in color and are located where a leaf once was on the stem. One leaf and several roots can be supported by each nodal area.
- A stem segment that is 20 cm long and has two to three nodes provides many opportunities for the emergence of new roots and leaves; the longer the segment, the more energy it has available to fuel new shoots.
- I have propagated from pieces as tiny as 5 cm long, with one node.
- The node is where new development, such as roots, might arise if a section of stem has a leaf emerging from it. Your existing leaf’s petiole will sprout new leaves on that portion.
What parts of Monstera won’t propagate
Not all of the components of your Monstera plant will reproduce to produce new Monstera offspring. This comprises:
- unconnected leaves without a stem
- roots or aerial roots that are not linked to stems
- stem devoid of leaves and no nodes
What will help a Monstera cutting establish quickly?
The cutting will establish itself in its own right more quickly the more portions of the plant it contains. As a result, while choosing where to cut, attempt to include:
- One or more leaves, as these contribute to the plant’s increased growth potential and quicker establishment.
- aerial roots or roots. In water or soil, aerial roots will produce ordinary roots as offshoots, which will improve the plant’s capacity to absorb nutrients and water. It’s typical for the thick, brown outer layer of the aerial roots to slough off, so don’t be alarmed.
Just keep in mind that nodes must be present on some piece of the stem; otherwise, trying to plant a leaf will fail.
Can you grow a Monstera leaf that is broken?
I adore how easy it is to spread a Monstera deliciosa. You may quickly fill your space with Monsteras or have a large number of baby plants to give to friends because they grow quickly from cuttings. Although nodes are suggested to be included on stem cuttings for propagation in online instructions, is this really necessary?
Can a Monstera be propagated without an A node? regrettably, no. Without a node, it is impossible to develop a Monstera deliciosa from a cutting. The components required to produce fresh growth are found in nodes. A Monstera leaf can withstand prolonged hydration and even develop roots, but only nodes can support new stem and leaf growth.
It can be tempting to try to grow a Monstera from a leaf, particularly if you accidentally snapped it off and want to try to save the fragment. But regrettably, it will never produce another plant. You will never have anything other than a leaf until the node is included. I’ll define a node in more detail below, along with the reasons cloning your Monstera is essential.
What does a Monstera node that is healthy look like?
Because monsteras are vining plants—defined as any plant with a tendency of growing by trailing or climbing stems, lianas, or runners—they frequently have many nodes.
A monstera node is a site of growth that contains an axillary bud, also known as a lateral bud, which is the latent shoot of a new stem and is situated between the petiole and stem. The axillary bud may be hidden inside the stem or appear as a spherical bump the same color as the stem.
Where Is the Node of a Monstera?
There will always be a node underneath any growth that is (or was) a leaf or stem that split off from the main stem.
Additionally, there will always be a node at the point where the stems split into two petioles or where the aerial roots are visible.
What Do Monstera Nodes Look Like?
A Monstera node’s appearance might vary depending on how developed the stem is.
Monstera nodes are distinctive from the rest of the stem because they bulge, may be thicker than the internodes, and feature light green circular rings.
Why Is My Monstera Growing Nodes?
Because it is a vining plant that develops growth from numerous areas on a single stem, Monstera plants typically have numerous nodes.
You may control the development of your Monstera by pruning or propagating as the plant’s nodes are where growth begins.
You can prune above the node to promote new growth in a particular location. The node on the portion of the stem that is still connected to your plant must be left in place.
However, you can grow your Monstera from a cutting that has a node if you wish to produce a new plant. To maintain the node with the new cutting, you would make the cut a few inches below the node.
Why Doesn’t My Monstera Have a Node?
Because it hasn’t developed far enough, a young or juvenile Monstera plant may not have any nodes yet.
For instance, your Monstera plant might not yet be mature enough to be propagated through cuttings if its leaves are emerging directly from the earth.
Can You Propagate Monstera Without Node?
Because a Monstera cutting without a node cannot develop into a full plant because it requires a node for it, you cannot propagate a Monstera without a node. Since the node contains all the cells required for this growth development, it can never create new stems or leaves.
Without a node, a Monstera cutting will simply produce roots. When kept in water for two to three weeks, it will begin to root.
Did you realize? A Monstera leaf cutting doesn’t need a node to live. But don’t anticipate any fresh leaf growth.
Can I Propagate a Monstera Node Without Leaf?
The Monstera plant can develop into a full-sized plant as long as a node is present.
So it is feasible to create a new Monstera plant from a leafless node cutting and propagate a Monstera in this way.
When purchasing a cutting, especially one from a variegated species like Monstera Albo or Monstera Thai Constellation, you may come across vendors giving stem segments with only one node (no leaves and few or no roots). They are offered for sale as “wet sticks,” “stem cutting,” and “node cutting.”
Because the plant produces leafless stolons or runners with nodes, Monstera Obliqua, Monstera Siltepecana, and Monstera Acuminate are the three species for which stem cuttings are sold.
Without leaf removal, a Monstera node typically measures 3 to 4 inches long and has one node in the center of the stem.
These Monstera wet sticks are significantly simpler to send than a leaf cutting and typically arrive packaged in moist sphagnum moss. Additionally, they are intended to be less expensive than purchasing a rooted Monstera or even a leafy cutting.
Did you realize? A cutting with one or more leaves and perhaps an aerial root can be multiplied faster than a Monstera node without a leaf. This is due to the fact that a leaf usually promotes growth by giving the plant extra energy through photosynthesis. The new bud might not emerge from the node for at least a month.
Should I Buy a Monstera Stem Node?
Here are some tips for picking a Monstera node cutting:
- Purchase only from reputable sellers. You can browse testimonials from previous customers (reviews and ratings). Because it lacks a leaf, it is impossible to determine the species, cultivar, or variation that the dealer is offering.
- When purchasing a variegated Monstera, look closely at the stem node for streaks and other indications of the pattern. You can never be absolutely certain if it will result in a variegated plant, though, as this is not usually the case. You can look for traces of variegation on the leaf when purchasing a leaf cutting.
- Look for a node cutting that has aerial roots developing from it that are as least a couple inches long. This will show you that the node is healthy and capable of producing new growth.
- A rooted cutting will also be a safer choice (i.e. a stem cutting that already has roots).
- There shouldn’t be any rot-indicating black or mushy areas on the stem cutting.
How Do You Know If You Have a Spent Node?
Last but not least, you’ll undoubtedly want to prevent the pain of attempting to propagate a Monstera with a node cutting, only to learn days or weeks later that there’s no prospect of generating any growth out of that cutting… so let’s talk about spent nodes.
A spent node is a plant cutting from the Monstera genus that has already grown from its axillary bud and then had that growth stopped.
A healthy, green axillary bud will be visible. It might even have started to produce fresh leaf growth at this point.
However, spent buds generally have brownish ends, as if they had previously expanded but had had that growth stopped. The plant cannot develop further because the axillary bud has already been consumed.
Each node on monstera plants only has one axillary bud. This indicates that each node gets a single opportunity to produce new growth. A Monstera stem with a spent node is present when an axillary bud has reached its full potential.