, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as
When cutting Monstera, where should I make my cuts?
Fortunately, trimming a monstera is not too difficult. Since they are a hardy plant, they don’t need to be meticulously pruned. In other words, even if you don’t perform a great job, your plant will probably be alright.
You’ll want to remember a few things, though:
1. Put on gloves. When pruning or propagating your monstera, be sure to use protective gloves because the sap is poisonous and can cause severe skin irritation.
2. Use a tidy, sharp instrument. You can avoid crushing or damaging the stem by using sharp pruning shears or a knife to make the cut. Your plant is also shielded from hazardous microorganisms by clean tools. Bacterial diseases can even spread to your other plants and are difficult to treat. (Protect your monstera from insects, fungi, and bacteria with our Houseplant Leaf Armor!)
Instead of slicing the stem off, just give it a good snip or chop while cutting. The cleanest cut will be made as a result.
3. If you can, prune in the spring, especially if you want to promote growth. Growth spurts occur in the spring and summer for the majority of plants, including monstera. Pruning in the spring will yield the best benefits and hasten the recovery of your plant. You should prune in the spring because that is when your cuttings will grow the fastest if you intend to propagate them.
4. Arrange the slices. Starting at the base of the stem, remove any outdated or diseased leaves.
Cut where you want the plant to grow if you are pruning to promote growth. Make a top cut if you want it to grow higher.
When the time comes to actually trim your monstera, keep in mind that pruning promotes growth so choose where to make your cuts. You can safely reduce the plant’s size if you’re pruning to manage your monstera’s size. Just remember that it will eventually need to be done again because it will grow back.
5. Be sure to cut below a node if you’re propagating. Don’t be concerned if you’re only trimming to reduce the size of your plant or get rid of dead leaves. However, if you want to grow your cuttings from them, make sure that they have a node, which is a tiny knob that develops on the stem opposite a leaf. When your cutting begins to grow, these will subsequently develop into aerial roots!
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6. Prevent unintentional proliferation. When you’re done pruning, be careful to dispose of your cuttings in the trash if you’re not going to propagate them because if you place them in a compost pile or somewhere else where they can root in the earth, they’ll start to grow roots.
I’m done now! Don’t be afraid to prune your monstera; it’s an essential yet easy component of care for this plant. This plant develops rapidly and bounces back quickly from pruning. Good fortune!
How should I clip Monstera to encourage fresh growth?
You must make an incision at the internode, at least two inches below the node, if you wish to propagate your Monstera. New roots can grow because of the space that is provided.
Remember that when you cut below a node, you are leaving a segment of stem that is unable to produce new stems or leaves.
Instead, make a clean cut above the node when shaping a plant or removing dead leaves. The same direction will be followed by new growth.
Greater surface area will be possible with a 45-degree angle cut compared to a straight cut, enhancing water uptake.
As every cut causes a wound to the plant, avoid overpruning. Therefore, if your plant is overcrowded, identify the nodes that are producing the most stems and leaves and prune those places. In this manner, you can remove a lot of material without raising your plant’s danger of shock or infection.
Should you cut the aerial roots?
Roots that develop above the ground as opposed to underneath it are known as aerial roots.
In the wild, Monstera uses aerial roots as support to climb taller trees so they may get more sunshine in the upper canopy.
They are not aesthetically pleasing and can grow to be very lengthy. You could wish to take into account pruning them if they are out of control.
Make sure to trim aerial roots as close to the node as possible without actually cutting the node. Cutting too deeply may harm the stem or nodes, which can raise the risk of illness.
Is a node necessary for a Monstera cutting?
As a Monstera cutting requires at least one node for propagation, it is not possible to propagate Monstera without a node. The node functions as the brain of the plant, storing the instructions for future development. No new leaf can grow on a cutting without a node, and the cutting itself won’t develop into a whole plant.
If kept in water for several months, monstera cuttings without nodes can develop roots. But these cuttings are unable to develop into whole plants. It is impossible to produce a clone of the mother plant.
They can grow from leaves depending on the species of plant. You can grow a lot of succulents and cacti from leaves. Pilea Peperomioides and Sansevieria are two further examples of plants that can be reproduced solely from leaves and a stem.
Cuttings of the monstera plant that have at least one node are capable of developing into complete plants. The time it takes for new roots and a leaf to emerge will be greatly lengthened if there isn’t a leaf present.
Should I trim the aerial roots of my Monsteras?
Your Monstera naturally has aerial roots. No need to chop them off, please. As long as you use a clean, sharp blade and cut them back if they are blocking the path, it is acceptable.
The main plant of your Monstera won’t suffer if the aerial roots are cut off. These roots are designed to ascend, not to absorb nourishment.
For additional information on what to do with the aerial roots of your Monstera, keep reading!
Where should a Swiss cheese plant be trimmed?
Making the Trimming Cut on a Swiss Cheese Plant Make sure to cut at least two inches below a stem node for a nice cutting to plant. This makes sure there is enough room for new roots to grow.
What can I do about my lanky Monstera?
Like all plants, a Monstera deliciosa can become sparse and lanky from a lack of sunshine. The issue itself is simple to identify, but how can you put a stop to it? How do you mend a Monstera that is “leggy” and what does that mean?
When a Monstera doesn’t receive enough light, it becomes leggy and becomes elongated and sparse. Once a leggy Monstera has been identified, it can be treated by cutting back the leggy growth and making sure the plant continues to receive enough sunshine going ahead.
It can be frightening whenever your plant starts to appear less than healthy. Leggy, fortunately, is a simple problem to resolve. So don’t be afraid! Continue reading to learn what the issue is, how to resolve it, what kind of light a Monstera requires, and how to accommodate Monsteras in low-light conditions.
How is Monstera propped?
The Swiss Cheese Plant, Monstera deliciosa, can be multiplied in a few different ways. I assembled my instruments, started by slicing off one enormous stem, and decided on the rooting technique.
I used the fact that the section I chose had an aerial root and node (see Step 1) as a chance to hasten the process by inducing the root to grow. I chose a portion of Monty that had at least two leaves in addition to two stalks, generally known as petioles.
You might be tempted to start a Monstera from a single leaf. I tried it, but it won’t work. For propagation to occur and be effective, a node or root must be present. Like cut flowers, a stem and a leaf by itself will do perfectly well in a glass container, but without roots, they will ultimately turn yellow and regretfully die (like cut flowers).
I took the following actions to make sure Monty Jr. grew up big and strong:
Locate the Node
Locate the node by looking around around your monstera. This tiny nub is crucial and will be the ONLY method you can spread after it has roots. It is situated at a petiole intersection and resembles a plant pimple in appearance.
Cut the stem off
I sliced the stem to include this aerial root or node and leaves in one by using sharp sheers (I like them). I rinsed the cutting under filtered water after removing it from the main plant.
Snip more leaves
This would be the time to remove any additional leaves if there were any. Remove any extra leaves if there are more than two to three.
Water is required.
I cleaned it and put filtered water halfway into a glass jar (no cap required) (chlorine is not good eats for young plants).
Set the Cutting in Place
I placed the cutting carefully so that it would stay upright. To keep the plant centered, you can always try a rig using twist ties, acquire a taller jar (like I did), or lean the plant on the jar lip.
I gave Monty Jr. fresh water and rapidly rinsed the roots every few days as so. I noticed positive developments starting to occur after about a month. Both that little node (remember that little nub?) and the aerial root, which would later serve as the plant’s backbone and anchor it in the soil, began to grow roots.
Remember, I had this surgery in the middle of the summer, so putting Monty Jr. in my hot, sunny, screened-in porch right away was ideal. Since plants tend to become somewhat inert and hibernate-like throughout the winter, I honestly wouldn’t try this anyway. Don’t bother them and act decently.
Before planting, I gave Monty Jr. a full two months to relax in his bath. I selected one of my tried-and-true plastic pots, which are strong and ideal for young saplings. I placed Monty Jr. in his new house, filling it lightly without crushing the earth down. He remained outside for the remainder of the summer and the beginning of the fall, but as soon as the temperature dropped at night, I brought him inside. I took extra precautions since I assumed that fresh cuttings would be more susceptible to temperature changes. Am I right, then?
After demonstrating my competency as a parent with the second cutting I performed a few weeks later, I tried my hand at an air layering technique. Following Monty Jr.’s success, Monty Jr. II (yep, it should read Monty Junior the Second) was separated from Monty in the same manner, but this time he was wrapped in moss rather than submerged in water. By forcing the mother plant’s roots to form, you can cut the stem after air layering.
How to Air Layer
- Step 1: Put the hardware together. You’ll need sphagnum moss, plastic wrap, and twist ties (note: avoid using dyed moss as it will get all over your hands when wet and stain everything for days).
- Step 2: Proceed to cut a slit along the monstera stem, taking care to include the node (or nub) that will serve as your aerial root. All of this should be underneath the incision.
- Step 3: Apply moistened sphagnum moss to the plant and wrap the node, any roots, and the incision.
- Step 4: Use plastic wrap to wrap the bundle and twist knots to fasten it. This won’t be wrapped forever, and in a few months, you should start to see roots emerge from the node. You must remove the root package and remoisten the moss every several days. I believe a spray bottle works best for this.
- You’ll see on the plant in the moss package that huge roots have started to form after a few months. Cut the stem completely off where the cut was, then start planting!