, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.
The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).
After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.
Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.
It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.
The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.
The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.
Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.
Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!
In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.
Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!
Your inquiries are addressed:
Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.
I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.
Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.
It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.
All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.
In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as
How should I clip Monstera to encourage fresh growth?
You must make an incision at the internode, at least two inches below the node, if you wish to propagate your Monstera. New roots can grow because of the space that is provided.
Remember that when you cut below a node, you are leaving a segment of stem that is unable to produce new stems or leaves.
Instead, make a clean cut above the node when shaping a plant or removing dead leaves. The same direction will be followed by new growth.
Greater surface area will be possible with a 45-degree angle cut compared to a straight cut, enhancing water uptake.
As every cut causes a wound to the plant, avoid overpruning. Therefore, if your plant is overcrowded, identify the nodes that are producing the most stems and leaves and prune those places. In this manner, you can remove a lot of material without raising your plant’s danger of shock or infection.
Should you cut the aerial roots?
Roots that develop above the ground as opposed to underneath it are known as aerial roots.
In the wild, Monstera uses aerial roots as support to climb taller trees so they may get more sunshine in the upper canopy.
They are not aesthetically pleasing and can grow to be very lengthy. You could wish to take into account pruning them if they are out of control.
Make sure to trim aerial roots as close to the node as possible without actually cutting the node. Cutting too deeply may harm the stem or nodes, which can raise the risk of illness.
Where do I cut a Monstera stem that is broken?
Unfortunately, you can’t keep the attached leaves on that stem with it. By making a cut one inch (2,5 cm) above the closest node, you can remove the damaged Monstera stem. At that node, a new growth point will develop, and a new stem with leaves will emerge after a few months.
Put the stem in a vase with water if you don’t want to discard the damaged leaf. This will ensure that you have at least a few months to appreciate the leaf. To keep the leaf fresh, remember to replace the water frequently.
Should I trim the aerial roots of my Monsteras?
Your Monstera naturally has aerial roots. No need to chop them off, please. As long as you use a clean, sharp blade and cut them back if they are blocking the path, it is acceptable.
The main plant of your Monstera won’t suffer if the aerial roots are cut off. These roots are designed to ascend, not to absorb nourishment.
For additional information on what to do with the aerial roots of your Monstera, keep reading!
When should I trim the leaves on my Monstera?
The Monstera deliciosa is a stunning climber that is a native of the jungles of Central and South America. It is aggressive and quick to develop. You might be unsure of how, if, or when to prune your Monstera due to how quickly they can grow to be large.
Monsteras require routine pruning. Pruning promotes growth and makes the plant healthier overall. You may regularly replenish your supply of new Monsteras by correctly taking cuttings from the plant and then propagating them. Prior to the Monstera’s growing season beginning in the early spring, pruning should be done.
If you’re not very experienced with houseplants, the prospect of chopping into your prized Monstera might give you the chills. But don’t worry; trimming is easy and beneficial to plants. Continue reading to learn how to prune your Monstera’s various components, why you should, and how to propagate cuttings.
How is a leggy Monstera pruned?
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Before your Monstera’s growing season, in the spring and early summer, pruning should be done. By doing so, you can guarantee that it will have the energy to quickly mend any wounds that have been produced, thereby reducing the risk of infection or pest invasion.
Gather your tools and materials before pruning your Monstera. You will require a pair of sterilizing tools and clean, sharp shears. There are other alternatives to the bleach mixture I advise, though.
The procedure is easy once you’re prepared: Determine which areas of the Monstera require trimming. It is safe to remove any scant or damaged growth. Make a plan before you begin to avoid becoming overwhelmed.
After selecting the stems that require trimming, follow them back to the primary stem or node. Cutting it at a little angle can prevent infection from spreading to the main stem, which could kill the plant.
Although a serious response is unlikely, you might want to wear gloves when working with the Monstera. Due to a substance called calcium oxalate that Monsteras manufacture, the sap has the potential to irritate the skin. If you are handling something without gloves, make sure to thoroughly wash your hands.
Do I need to remove the damaged leaves?
A houseplant’s appearance can also be ruined by dead or poorly formed leaves. Both damaged leaves and missing plant branches can be removed. You can use sharp scissors to trim overly ambitious stems back to just above a leaf point when they start to spoil the plant’s form. Simply remove the dead leaves; do not leave any little snags that will die back. It is advisable to trim the stem back to its base with sharp scissors in order to eliminate any dead leaves that are at the top of the shoot.
The dead blooms on houseplants can be removed individually and thrown on a compost pile. Azaleas bloom profusely over several weeks. Pick off the initial ones as they pass away to make room for the next ones to emerge. It is known as deadheading. You may remove each dead blossom from a cyclamen by pulling it off with the stalk. It will just snap off at the desired location if you give it a little tug. The stem would steadily deteriorate if you merely removed the blossom, which would stimulate the deterioration of other blooms and stems as well. Moreover, it just looks horrible. Don’t leave the blooms and stems at the plant’s base; instead, add them to the compost pile.
Do I need to remove the young Monstera leaves?
Depending on why you are pruning your Monstera, choose where to cut it. Simply clip off the old leaves from the main stem to eliminate them. However, the cutting must have at least one node if you plan to use the Monstera parts that you have pruned for propagation. If so, trim the stem an inch below the node.
Yellowed leaves cannot be used to root or spread your Monstera since they are past rescuing. After all, Monstera cannot spread without a node. That’s because the area between nodes, known as internodes, will not root or sprout new growth, making nodes the sole location on the stem where new growth can be produced.
Look for the region where your Monstera’s aerial roots or leaves develop to find the node. Around the stem, this region has thicker tissue and may take the form of a raised ring. The cutting should then be rooted in a glass of water or a moist potting mixture after being cut slightly below the node.
Make sure to only cut the lateral roots when trimming your Monstera plant’s roots to limit its size and growth. You shouldn’t cut or trim the main root because it is stronger and thicker. When pruning the roots, trim lateral roots by one-third of their length.
Should I cut off small Monstera leaves?
Small Monstera leaves can be removed if you wish to promote growth and are concerned that they are utilizing too many resources for your plant. Pruning Monstera small leaves won’t address the underlying issues causing this, though, as little leaves on your Monstera plant typically indicate that its developing demands are not being addressed.
Instead, a change in location, sparingly watering your Monstera plant, and providing it with the right nutrients will stimulate it to grow bigger leaves. Make sure your Monstera plant’s growing requirements are satisfied if you’re experiencing problems with little leaves. Here is a quick rundown of all the elements a Monstera plant requires to develop large, lush leaves and strong development.
- Light Monstera plants thrive in a sunny window’s bright illumination. They are able to tolerate direct sunshine from an eastern window, but not from a western or southern window. Verify that your Monstera plant receives at least six hours every day of bright, indirect light.
- WaterMonsteras can be particular about how much water they require to survive. They thrive in evenly damp soil that has the top 2 to 3 inches of the pot left to dry out in between waterings. Establish the routine of regularly checking the soil’s moisture level and watering the Monstera plant when the top inch or two are dry to prevent overwatering or underwatering the plant.
- HumidityMonstera is a tropical plant that requires high degrees of humidity to survive. The winter, when your home’s air is dry, is when this problem most frequently arises. To increase the humidity level close to your Monstera plants, use a humidifier or pebble trays.
How to cut yellow leaves off Monstera
Follow the stem of the yellow leaf back to the main branch or stem to clip yellow leaves off of Monstera. Trim the leaf stem so that it is near the main vine or stem. After that, discard the old leaves or put them in the compost bin because yellow leaves cannot root and won’t produce new growth.
To maintain the Monstera’s appearance, yellow leaves should be routinely removed. Older leaves naturally turn yellow and die as fresh growth takes their place. The process of cutting them from the plant is straightforward.
What happens if you cut a Monstera leaf?
Many gardeners are eager to root and spread their plants by saving cuttings from their plants. Some plants, such as begonias and African violets, may have their leaves used to make new plants, but Monsteras cannot.
Monstera leaves are unable to grow new roots or branches. A node is the only component of a Monstera plant that generates new plant tissues. The plant’s leaf stems lack nodes, but its main or lateral vines do have nodes.
Throw the leaf you unintentionally cut off your Monstera plant in the garbage or the compost bin.
How should a plant wound be cut?
Take cuttings of hardwood in the winter or early spring. At this time of year, deciduous plants—those that shed their leaves every winter—have none. Therefore, unless the buds open, water loss is not a severe issue with these cuttings. It may take two to four months for roots to grow on hardwood cuttings, which are more challenging to root than softwood cuttings. Some shrubs, such forsythia, privet, and willow, respond well to the procedure. Hardwood cuttings can also be used to propagate needled evergreens, but water loss must be minimized.
Preparing Deciduous Hardwood Cuttings
- Pick a sturdy stem.
- Remove a portion of the stem that has grown throughout the summer (depending on species, it may be 1-2 feet long).
- The cutting should be trimmed as follows:
- Start at the stem’s base and make a cut right below a node (Figure 4).
- Draw a line 2 inches above this cut using a pencil. In the rooting mix will be the stem’s section between the cut and the line (Figure 5).
- Make a second cut 2 to 6 inches above the first one, ensuring sure that at least two buds are present in this section.
- To prevent them from expanding throughout the roots process, remove the buds from the bottom 2 inches of the stem.
- By slicing two 1-inch pieces of bark from the stem’s base on the opposing sides, you can injure the cut. Make a deep enough cut to reveal the green layer underneath the bark, but not so deep that the stem is severed in half (Figure 6).
- The stem’s lowest inch should be treated with rooting hormone before being inserted into damp rooting mixture up to the pencil line. Wrap it in the rooting mixture firmly.
- From each stem, two to five cuttings might be possible. If the stem is still long enough, repeat steps three through six. The base and top ends of the cutting should always be kept separate in your memory. The end of the cutting that goes into the rooting mix should always be the base, not the top.
- Depending on the facilities and equipment available, there are presently two possibilities.
- Put the pot in a plastic bag like you would with herbaceous cuttings and place it in a warm area if you don’t have a cold garage with a heating system. The buds will open in two to three weeks, but the plastic bag should maintain a high level of humidity around the leaves and stop excessive water loss. Ensure the rooting mix is moist but not soggy, that the pot is in a sunny location, and that it does not overheat.
- Every two to three weeks, look for roots.
- As with softwood cuttings (Step #8), acclimate rooted cuttings to warmer, less humid circumstances.
Preparing Needled Evergreen Cuttings
Hardwood cuttings are a common method of propagating needled evergreens. These cuttings are handled differently from hardwood cuttings of deciduous plants since they still contain leaves (needles).
- Use only the shoot tips, and lengthen the cutting to 6 to 8 inches.
- The bottom 3 to 4 inches of the cutting should be free of needles. Trim the remaining needles so that they barely cover the palm of your hand to prevent water loss (Figure 7).
- Drawn a knife along the stem’s bottom inch on both sides, wounding the base of the cutting (Figure 8). Don’t split the stem; just cut into it. Apply rooting hormone to the stem’s bottom inch, then insert the stem’s remaining two inches into the rooting mix, being careful not to let any needles touch the mix’s surface. the mixture around it firmly.
If the room is well illuminated, the potted cuttings may be placed in an unheated space with a heating element to warm the rooting mix. If not, place the pot and cuttings in a warm, well-lit area, just as you would with cuttings from deciduous hardwoods. For these cuttings to successfully root, light must be provided. Once every month, check for roots. The growth of roots may take three or four months. Adapt rooted cuttings as previously mentioned.