Uncertainty surrounds the name Monstera’s possible Latin monstrum origin, which refers to the plant’s monster-like leaves. The specific epithet, deliciosa, relates to the edible fruit and implies delightful.
The genus Monstera, which originated in tropical America and is closely related to philodendrons, has roughly 22 species. The range of this particular species extends from Mexico to Panama in the south, but it is also commonly cultivated in other tropical regions. It can grow to a height of 20 meters in its natural habitat, where it uses aerial roots to climb trees in search of light. The thick, fibrous stems from which the aerial roots dangle down resemble drapes. By its aerial roots, the big specimen of Monstera deliciosa at Oxford Botanic Garden clings to the wall of one of the glasshouse corridors. The roots are used in Mexico to make baskets and in Peru to make rope.
The major reason why monstera deliciosa is grown is for its one-meter-long, glossy, dark green leaves. Young leaves have unbroken edges, but as the plant grows older, the leaf edges become deeply sliced and develop elliptic holes. There are also lovely variegated cultivars with cream marbling on the leaves that can offer contrast to other tropical foliage while illuminating a dim area in a room or glasshouse.
The flowers and eventual fruit of this plant are another reason to grow it. The Araceae’s characteristically small blooms are tightly clustered at the base of a whitish spadix and encircled by a lovely creamy white spathe. If the circumstances are ideal, these intricate inflorescences will produce scaly fruit that tastes of pineapple and banana. The only component of Monstera deliciosa that is safe to eat is the ripe fruit, it is crucial to remember this. The unripe fruit includes raphides and trichosclereids, which are needle-like structures that will irritate the throat, while the stems and leaves contain a sap that can cause a rash. The fruit’s tough, green scales naturally peel off when it is ripe, exposing the creamy yellow kernels inside.
Because they can withstand poor lighting and low humidity, Monstera deliciosa is a popular choice for indoor plants, but growth ceases at 10 C. The ideal environment is at least 20 C and heavy humidity. In the past, English hot houses were used to raise Monstera deliciosa for its fruit.
1999 Huxley A. Gardening terms from The New Royal Horticultural Society Dictionary. Dictionary company Groves Inc.
CD Muir, 2013. What caused the Swiss cheese factory’s holes? pp. 273-281 in The American Naturalist 181.
Where do monsteras grow in the wild?
What Origins Do Monstera Plants Have? The dense, muggy, and lush tropical parts of Central American nations including South Mexico, Belize, Honduras, El Salvador, Costa Rica, and Panama are where you can find wild monstera.
Where can I find wild monsteras?
You might be asking where in the world you might get Monstera plants now that you are a bit more familiar with some of the various types.
Here are some locations where you can see these plants in their natural setting:
- In Costa Rica
- Panama
- Mexico
- Guatemala
- Colombia
- Belize
Most frequently seen in Central and South America, monstera plants are native to tropical regions. However, you can also locate them in other places like Southeast Asia and Africa.
Because Monsteras prefer warm temperatures and high humidity levels, these surroundings are ideal for them. Tall trees also provide the plants with the appropriate lighting conditions by shining strong indirect light.
Is Australia the original home of Monstera?
I was really aback to discover a Monstera growing wild as I strolled down the MAMU skywalk. Nothing else has a flower, fruit, or set of leaves quite like that, so it had to be a Monster. However, it wasn’t the Monstera deliciosa that I cultivated and wrote about a few years ago.
It shocked me that MAMU’s own Flora and Fauna Guide referred to it as a “Native Monstera” (which sounded correct) and listed “Epipremnum aureum” as the botanical name, as any two plants this similar are often in the same genus.
I looked into it more when I got home and discovered a confusing jumble of names—the same type of stuff I discussed in Common names and Latin names six months ago and Butterfly vines and Swallowtail butterflies a year earlier. It’s clear that I enjoy this type of problem, and I believe I have now identified the three species and numerous names that are involved. We’ll see.
My three species are all vines that belong to the Monsteroideae subfamily and tribe of the Araceae family, which includes the Arum Lily. (That link will take you to Wikipedia, where you can get as much information as you like; for the time being, it’s sufficient to know that they are all connected.)
Monstera deliciosa
We started with a common ornamental vine that produces eatable fruit. Its identity is extremely evident because it solely goes by its botanical name, “Monstera” or “Monstera deliciosa” (at least in Australia). It is native to Mexico and Panama, as stated in Wikipedia, but has been spread to many other nations.
Native Monstera
Since anyone who is familiar with the cultivated Monstera deliciosa will immediately recognize the similarities, I prefer using their popular term, “Native Monstera,” for the plant I encountered at MAMU.
The native distribution of this plant stretches from Northern Australia to South-east Asia into Southern China, Taiwan, and Japan as well as East into Melanesia. It indicates therapeutic applications in Singapore in its section on Australian Tropical Rainforest Plants, an outstanding website by CSIRO, but I have only found one source that claims the fruit is edible; it was a commercial nursery, and I’m not sure I would trust it with my life.
Botanists have frequently transferred the Native Monstera and its allies from one genus to another within the Monstereae (the entry on Australian Tropical Rainforest Plants lists them all). We shall run into Pothos again; his current name is Epipremnum. It makes sense that the second element of the name—pinnatum—means “divided like a feather” and alludes to the leaves.
Epipremnum pinnatum is the name of our native monstera. Thus, MAMU has the correct genus but the incorrect species name.
Epipremnum pinnatum is referred to as “Golden Pothos Vine” on iNaturalist, but I believe this is a bad choice, especially when Epipremnum aureum is referred to as “Golden Pothos” (without the ‘Vine’). Other common names exist abroad, but not in Australia, it would seem.
Golden Pothos
What, then, is “Golden Pothos”? Prior to Epipremnum’s adoption, Pothos was one of the genera of Monstereae, and aureum is Latin for “golden.” Therefore, the term “Golden Pothos” is a literal translation of a no longer used Latin name for a specific relative of our monsteras; the correct botanical name is Epipremnum aureum.
The vine is a creeper with variegated leaves, as we will quickly discover when looking up either the popular name (image search) or the botanical name (image search). It is also widely planted in our gardens here in NQ, where it climbs trees and makes leaves as large as monsteras, thus it is well known (but not usually divided and never holey). It is typically grown inside in pots in temperate climates, so the leaves don’t develop to their full capacity.
Epipremnum aureum is quite thoroughly described on Wikipedia, which notes that it is indigenous to French Polynesia and provides a great range of common names for it, including “golden pothos, Ceylon creeper, hunter’s cloak, ivy arum,… Solomon Islands ivy, marble queen, taro vine, and devil’s ivy.”
When I realized how well I knew “Golden Pothos,” my initial reaction was that it couldn’t be connected to monsteras because it didn’t have fruits or flowers that were similar. Then I realized I had never even seen its flowers.
In addition, Wikipedia notes that “it rarely flowers without artificial hormone injections; the last documented spontaneous flowering was observed in 1964… This “shy-flowering plant” won’t bloom no matter where it is planted or the environmental circumstances because of a genetic defect.
Instead, because it is such a common houseplant, appealing, and tough, it spreads vegetatively regularly with human assistance via cuttings. In fact, because it is so hard to kill, it earned the name “Devil’s Ivy.” Indoor plants are then, of course, thrown out and settle on the trash heap, climb the closest tree, etc.
When the vine does, on rare instances, develop a bloom or fruit, they are in fact strikingly similar to those of the Native Monstera, as seen, for instance, in the fruit on wikipedia.
Since the History and Etymology part of Wikipedia explains why MAMU gave our Native Monstera the incorrect botanical name and iNaturalist gave it the wrong popular name, I’ll quote it in its entirety.
The Golden Pothos species has been categorized under several genera. Pothos aureus was the name given to it when it was initially reported in 1880, which is part of the reason it is frequently called a “pothos.” A flower was given the new name Raphidophora aurea after it was discovered in 1962. When the flower was examined more closely, however, scientists discovered a stronger resemblance to Epipremnum pinnatum and grouped the two species together. Researchers didn’t once again distinguish it from E. pinnatum and categorize it as E. aureum until they paid more attention to the complete plant, including the leaves and growing habits. [10]
Interestingly, this vine is listed as Epipremnum pinnatum cv. Aureum on the Tropical Rainforest Plants website, which appears to be a little out of date. The term “cultivated variation” (abbreviated “cv”) refers to plants that are noticeably different from others of the same species (more on Wikipedia).
How do Monstera plants grow in nature?
Monsteras can grow to enormous heights in their natural tropical habitat because to aerial roots. Aerial roots, which anchor plants to trees, buildings, and other above-ground surfaces instead of the plant’s normal roots, allow the plant to climb.
Despite not growing to jungle heights in your home, monsteras still develop in the same manner. Create a moss pole to sustain the ambitions of your monstera. Your monstera’s aerial roots will develop into the moss and anchor it as it soars.
With the proper care and support, Monstera deliciosa are long-lived plants that may reach heights of 10 to 15 feet indoors, spread out over an area of 8 feet, and have leaves that are at least 18 inches broad.
1 Indoors, variegated monstera rarely grow to that large and develop considerably more slowly.
Expect the leaf splits and holes to change considerably as your monstera gets older. Leaf holes can develop into pronounced split leaves depending on the plant’s kind and growing environment. Proper lighting levels are particularly crucial. Splits and holes are inhibited by low light. 3
Is Monstera a Hawaiian native plant?
The delicious monstera “is quite typical in Hawaii. It is one of the biggest taro vines and bears up to three feet long, thick, heart-shaped leaves. When fully grown, they have stems up to 3 feet long and are lobed and pierced. The vine’s woody stem scrambles over the surface or climbs over supports, releasing stringy roots that may or may not descend to the earth. It prospers in the shade.” (Neal, 1965) (*Staples & Herbst [2005] indicate that these plants favor regions with lots of light, like forest borders, open spaces inside forests, or the high canopy.) “The vine is well known for its long, cone-shaped, edible fruits, which measure about 8 by 2 inches and are made up of several berries that stick together and have a flavor that is similar to a blend of banana and pineapple. A creamy-white, delicate pulp that is delectable when ripe is surrounded by a skin with hexagonal plates that is yellow-green with violet spots. When it is green, it has calcium oxalate crystals that can irritate the tongue and throat. With the exception of a few sterile flowers close to the base, the spike’s many blossoms are excellent. A white bract first covers the spike, but it quickly comes off. Hawaii is home to four other Monstera species that have somewhat overlapping, heart-shaped or oval leaves. All five species’ youngest leaves are complete.” (Neal, 1965) “Monstera, Rhaphidophora, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, and Philodendron are a few genera of woody taro vines that have species that seem very similar in general. Their flowers differ in minute features, but because many species do not blossom in cultivation, naming them sometimes leads to confusion. But there is enough variation in the leaves to tell the plants apart. One Monstera species (M. deliciosa Liebm.) is relatively widespread in Hawaii out of the almost 30* species of Monstera known from tropical America.” (Neal, 1965) (*Staples & Herbst [2005] state that Monstera has roughly 60 native species that are found in countries including Mexico, Brazil, and Bolivia. Tropical America is the original home of Monsteradeliciosa.
Can Monstera survive in Florida’s outdoors?
Araceae, the genus Monstera, contains more than 45 plant species that are indigenous to tropical America and the nearby islands.
In the neotropical rainforests, it develops as hemiepiphytes. Hemiepiphytes go through both terrestrial (ground) and epiphytic growth phases (on other plants). Monstera grows as a terrestrial creeper or climber as a baby or seedling, and as an epiphyte as it ages.
Many Monstera species are attractive indoor plants that are prized in temperate climates for their enormous mature split or fenestrated leaves as well as their whole juvenile leaves. Monstera deliciosa is the most widely used, followed by M. adansonii. Other species include M. obliqua, M. dubia, M. siltepecana, M. lechleriana, M. Peru, etc. The list goes on and on.
The Monstera plant is poisonous or dangerous to cats, dogs, and even humans in all of its sections. Why? because they contain calcium oxalates, which are sharp, soluble needles that, when chewed, would induce intense discomfort and a burning sensation. Expect additional symptoms like edema, trouble swallowing, appetite loss, drooling, etc.
The fruits of Monstera deliciosa are safe and eatable when completely ripe. They taste sweet and taste like a cross between pineapple and banana.
Monstera outdoors growth and care requirements
If you reside in a climate that is conducive to growing plants outdoors, you can grow Monstera in pots or containers or on a raised bed. Outside, these plants will grow bigger than they would inside. They might also grow old and even produce flowers and fruits.
The following are the needs for growth and care:
USDA hardiness zone
The USDA hardiness range for monstera is 10b to 12. Since they are not frost-resistant, these plants cannot tolerate below-freezing conditions. Only individuals who live in these zones can grow them year-round outdoors.
Some areas of Florida and California are among the US locations where Monstera can be grown outside. These plants also flourish in Hawaii.
These plants can be grown outside of the United States in tropical and subtropical areas as well as warm temperate zones without frost or freezing temperatures.
Temperature and humidity
Since Monstera are tropical plants, they benefit from warmth and humidity. You can go outside as long as the temperature doesn’t drop below 35 F (1.7 C). However, slower growth results from lower temperatures.
These plants will thrive in environments with humidity levels of at least 40% to 50% or higher. By spraying them, you can assist in raising it. Other techniques for raising humidity include:
- Mulching
- putting trays with water around the plant
- cultivating them among other plants.
Light
They get dappled light from thick rainforest canopies in the wild. You must supply equivalent lighting in your home. So, cultivate them in the shade or under a large tree. A greenhouse or shade cloth are further options.
Deep shade should be avoided as it will limit development. Additionally, if you have a variegated Monstera, such as Thai Constellation, var. borsigiana alba variegata, etc., these plants might not develop the right hue.
However, there won’t be any direct sunlight. Why? Your Monstera will become sunburned; the leaves will appear faded or washed out, and there will be brown tips and margins, among other symptoms. Discover more about the type and quantity of Monstera light needed.
Best soil
It is recommended to grow your Monstera in soil that is rich in organic matter, well-drained, aerated, and pH-balanced between slightly acidic and neutral.
Loamy, well-drained soils are acceptable. However, if they don’t drain well or feel heavy, add additional gravel or perlite. Compost can also be added.
Watering
They require medium irrigation. When the top few inches of the soil feel dry, water them. How frequently depends on your health. It can happen every day or every few days.
Yellow Monstera leaves, withering, or root rot are signs of overwatering. The plant will develop slowly, the soil will be wet, and you might see spots of black or brown color.
Conversely, a drought will cause the leaves to curl, droop, or wilt. The plant will also grow slowly, lose leaves, and do other things.
Feeding
Feed your Monstera if you want lush foliage and a healthy plant. Slow-release balanced fertilizers are available as liquid or granular (pelleted) fertilizers. Since we like fluids, you can mix them with water.
If you use liquid fertilizer, it’s acceptable to fertilize once each month. obey the manufacturer’s instructions for slow release.
Last but not least, we advise fertilizing your plant when you notice it is actively developing or adding new leaf.
Pruning
To remove damaged, diseased, or dead leaves, use sanitized gardening shears. If you wish to limit plant development and size, you can also trim a few branches. Do not ever cut more than 25% of the plant at once.
Repotting
Do you cultivate your Monstera in pots outside? Then, you must repot them in the same manner as you would indoor plants.
These plants need to be replanted every year or when they get rootbound while still young and growing quickly. If they are not rootbound, wait 2 to 3 years after they reach the ideal size. Use a pot with a few extra inches in diameter.
Staking
Except for Monstera deliciosa, all of these plants are climbers and won’t mature unless given a place to climb. Stakes are also given when the leaves are bigger, divided, or fenestrated.
You can make use of an arbor, a cedar or bamboo pole, or both. If it was grown beneath a tree, allow it to climb the tree trunk. Walls or fences are also an excellent place to climb. You must, however, teach these plants to climb.