When To Repot My Monstera

Low upkeep is required when caring for monstera plants. The interior of the plant must be at least 65 °F (18 °C) heated, preferably higher. Swiss cheese plants also require a lot of humidity and somewhat moist soil. A wooden or moss-covered pole placed in the center of the pot will offer the additional support that the aerial roots require.

Every year when the plant is young, repotting cheese plants is done to promote development and aerate the soil. Increase the size of your containers until you reach the biggest pot you intend to use. After then, the plant need a fresh top-dress of rich soil every year but can survive being root-bound for a number of years at a time.

Repotting Monstera is best done in the early spring before the plant develops new leaves.

When should you repot your Monstera, and how?

You might be asking what you should do to maintain the health of your Monstera deliciosa if you’ve had it for a long. The solution (in part) is to periodically repot it into a bigger container to give it the space it needs to grow. Long-term storage of monsteras in small containers prevents them from ever reaching their “monster potential.”

Every two years, a Monstera deliciosa should be replanted, ideally in the spring as it starts to grow. Overgrown roots, a lack of new growth, and poor water retention are indications that a Monstera needs to be transplanted sooner rather than later.

This article will discuss some of these signals’ meanings and physical characteristics. It will be simpler to determine when a plant is prepared to go up to the next size of planter once you are aware of how a Monstera responds to being left in a pot that is too tiny.

How can you tell if Monstera is linked to its roots?

You must check your plant to see if its roots are bound, which can be done by doing the following actions:

  • To prevent shattering or injuring them, turn the container on its side and support the plant’s stem carefully.
  • If the pot is made of thin plastic, gently squeeze it to loosen the soil; if the pot is heavier, use a stick or ruler to do the same.
  • If your Monstera stem won’t budge, try sliding it out and allow gravity assist in moving the plant and dirt ball instead than squeezing or tugging on it.
  • If the plant gets stuck, you may need to break the container or cut it off. Once it loosens up, carefully slip the plant out and pull it out.
  • Once you’ve got your Monstera out, carefully check the plant’s root ball to see if it’s root-bound.

Your Monstera plant is obviously root-bound if its roots are entwined and have assumed the shape of its container, leaving only a little amount of soil inside. Picking up the plant by the root ball and finding little to no soil in or around the roots is another indication.

Large white roots and a lot of loose soil will surround a healthy root ball. If it’s anything else, the root system is unquestionably the problem and needs to be fixed.

Fortunately, you and your Monstera can get back on track by simply following the instructions provided in this article!

Step 1: Choose the best time.

Repotting works well in the early spring. During this time, your monstera will likely experience a growth surge, so it should recover from repotting swiftly.

However, if your plant is indicating that it needs to be replanted sooner, go ahead and do so. These plants are hardy, so you should repot them right once if the roots are soaking up water or if they are bursting through the pot.

Step 2: Pick your new pot.

Start by choosing a pot that is several inches deeper and just slightly wider than your old one. If your plant currently has a moss pole or you intend to add one in the future, you want it to be deep enough to accommodate it.

You don’t want to go overboard because an overly large container can hold more water than the plant can consume, which can cause over-watering and root rot. (If root rot is present in your monstera, use our Root Rot Treatment.)

How frequently do Monstera plants need to be replanted?

Use all-purpose potting soil to repot your monstera at any time of the year. Repotting these plants should only be done every two to three years because they prefer to stay in their pots. Instead of repotting your monstera once it is in a container with a diameter of eight inches or greater, top-dress it with new potting soil.

Your monstera will eventually lose its lower leaves as it climbs; even cutting off growth tips won’t stop it from moving upward. While there is no method to promote regeneration on the lower, barren stems, it is simple to propagate a new, fuller-appearing plant from a strong stem with multiple leaves.

Do monstera plants prefer little pots?

Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.

Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”

When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?

During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.

How much light does a Monstera need?

Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.

When should I fertilize my Monstera?

Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.

Should I re-pot my Monstera?

The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.

Light

It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.

Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.

Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.

Watering

The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.

Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!

In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.

Fertiliser

As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.

Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.

Repotting

Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.

It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.

Propagation

After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.

The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.

Common Problems

Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.

If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.

The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.

Outdoors Care

When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.

This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!

Do plants experience shock when being replanted?

While most container plants occasionally require repotting to make room for their growing roots, transplanting might stress the plant. Because it occurs frequently enough, transplant shock has a name. A huge plant may suffer from transplant shock, but it is not always fatal.

Does Monstera enjoy crowds?

Monsteras are tolerant plants that don’t mind a little bit of confined space. However, it’s important to be aware of when to upgrade into a larger pot because they tend to grow quite quickly and have a deep root system that appreciates room to spread out.

Although my own Monstera was largely root-bound, it appeared to be alright because it was still growing new leaves and was standing upright and content. However, if the roots are expanding, the plant must be doing the same. I had two options: either I could limit it or I could let it develop as it desired.

It needed to be transplanted, so I transferred it to a bigger container. I received a ton of fresh growth nearly right away as a reward. It wasn’t suffering in its small container, but it was definitely not growing as fast as it would have liked.

The choice of how long to keep your Monstera in the same container is ultimately yours. I chose to relocate my plant into a bigger container after listening to it, although I could have left it in its current location as it was still content.

However, waiting until your Monstera exhibits pot-bound symptoms is typically not the best course of action because it stresses your plant needlessly. For optimal results, keep an eye on your Monstera, keep track of the health of its root system, and switch to a new pot every two years.