Press gifts included the Arket planter, shovel, and vase. I get a little commission from the sales of the things when you click on affiliate links that are indicated with the symbol *aff. [All images by Cate St.
I should definitely preface this piece by saying that I’m not an expert on caring for houseplants. Even though I’ve done some reading and research, I believe that a large portion of my success with plants has been luck and a south-facing space. Although I’ve had a bad history of keeping plants alive, I’ve found the monstera deliciosa to be quite foolproof for those with less than stellar green thumbs.
The monstera is a native to the tropical jungles of Mexico; it prefers direct, strong sunlight and can withstand temperatures averaging between 18 and 25 °C. The monstera, also referred to as a Swiss cheese plant, can be identified by its broad, heart-shaped leaves and their characteristic perforated pattern. With its sculptural, leathery fronds, a monstera plant will provide a room with an unmatched, bold punch of lush foliage. Although the monstera shape has been employed as a popular theme on everything from bedding to wallpaper in the world of interior design, I really like the real thing.
My monstera plant has been contently resting in a corner and only occasionally needing water (about once a week). In only under two years, it went from being a tiny pot plant to a lush, towering tangle of stalks and glossy foliage. If you were sitting on the end of the sofa closest to the monster, it started to seem a little bit like you were sheltering under a forest canopy. It makes sense that its Latin name, monstrosa, which relates to the edible fruit it can produce, translates as “monstrous.” In the correct circumstances, these people can reach heights of almost 9 meters quickly.
Because of their quick growth and hardiness, monsteras are the perfect plant for propagation, which involves taking cuttings from a mature mother plant to produce smaller, new plants. It has enabled me to add even more lovely greenery to the house and has given the older plant new vitality. I was inspired to try it after seeing Siobhan Watts do it on Instagram. It couldn’t be simpler!
The spring and summer seasons, when a monstera plant is actively growing, are the optimum times to propagate it. When the gnarly roots from the stems start to grow outside the pot, that’s when you’ll know your monstera plant is ready for multiplication. Propagation can help equalize your monstera, much like pruning a hedge, if it appears a little unbalanced due to excessive growth in one direction or if it becomes too tall and can no longer support itself. A moss pole can also be used to support a monstera plant, but it’s always wonderful to spread the joy of the outside inside, isn’t it?
Taking a stem cutting is the first step in monstera plant propagation. Don’t just randomly chop. As you can see in the example above, the stem has a lengthy root that was in the soil and a smaller, more delicate nodule where another root is beginning to take shape. Be sure to cut your stem below an aerial root or leaf node.
To boost the quantity of water it can absorb in the following stage, cut the stem at an angle.
After that, just put your cutting in a dry vase filled with water. To see the growth, I used a clear vase like this little, spherical vase (*aff), although I’m not sure if that was essential. Aerial root or node should be completely submerged in water. After that, keep an eye on it while keeping it out of direct sunlight.
The cutting on the mother plant is shown in the left image having been clipped, and the cutting in the right image has been placed in water for the first time.
A few weeks will pass before the first shoots appear. Keep in mind that while propagating can be a tedious procedure, the benefits are well worth the wait. Meanwhile, a monstera in a vase creates a lovely presentation. For months, I didn’t need to purchase fresh flowers!
I was cautioned about changing the water by someone on Instagram.
I suppose part of the nutrients must be kept in the cutting. I simply added some new water to top it off if the water level seemed a little low.
The monstera cutting was ready to be repotted into soil when it had a magnificent tangle of light-colored roots. Even with the cutting submerged in water, a fresh, vibrant green leaf had emerged.
From my favorite book, “The House of Plants,” Caro and Rose advise using a compost that contains worm castings, rock dust, and coir for important minerals as well as coir to retain moisture. I just used some garden compost because I didn’t really know where to start with any of stuff, but anything that provides your cutting the best start is a wonderful idea. At least the Kent & Stowe gardening trowel (*aff) makes me appear the part!
In compost, plant your cutting.
To aid it, you can apply a small amount of liquid fertilizer. To aid in draining, consider a pot with a hole at the bottom, such as this grey terracotta plant pot from Arket (*aff). Before adding soil, put stones, gravel, or potting grit at the bottom of your plant pot if it has a drainage hole. However, in my experience, plants that I’ve grown in pots without holes haven’t done well over time.
Make sure the monstera plant is standing erect and pat down the soil’s surface. After giving the plant some water, you’re done!
Now all I have to do is cross my fingers and hope that this plant, like the mummy plant, survives and grows.
When the top layer of soil has dried out, water your monstera plant once a week to keep it healthy. You may also spritz the plant occasionally to keep the leaves healthy and glossy or pour little water to the saucer to let the roots collect it there. In the event that the leaves become a little dusty, I will occasionally wipe them.
There we are, then
I was astounded by how simple it was to spread a monstera plant! What’s even great is that you may have an impact right away without spending any money or purchasing anything new. Why not try it if you have one that seems a touch overgrown?
I’m really enjoying adding more plants to my house and gradually raising something. It’s so rewarding to watch a plant grow and change rather than wither and perish only by looking at it. Plants not only serve to purify the air, but they also, in my opinion, make a place feel nice just by being there. They give a home life and a sense of vibrancy. And it’s oh so addictive if you find success with one plant!
How long before planting should I propagate monstera?
You followed our advice on propagation first, and now you want to know when to plant your new Monstera. Wait until the longest, whitest, fuzzy roots may branch off into numerous, smaller roots. It is appropriate to bury your Monstera cutting in soil once these little feeder roots have grown to at least 3 inches (8 cm) in length.
Comparing the root volume to the size of the pot you want to put it in will help you determine when your cutting is ready to be planted. For instance, when the root volume of a small Monstera, such as an adansonii, could fit in a 2 inch (5 cm) container, the cutting might be planted (alone or with other cuttings).
I often wait until the roots of a Monstera deliciosa, which has stronger roots, can fill a 3.5 inch (9 cm) pot. I wait till the roots of an albo variegated Monstera deliciosa can fill a 4.5 inch (11 cm) pot. When an albo Monstera cutting is planted, the chance of leaf loss from transplant shock is reduced because the cutting has more roots.
How long does it take for a Monstera cutting to root?
The length of aerial root that is available determines how long it will take a Monstera cutting to root. Additionally, it depends on whether the aerial root was expanding actively prior to the cutting.
Usually, short aerial roots grow into a single, long new root. Longer aerial roots have the ability to begin producing new roots from both the sides and the tip, hastening the rooting process. Without aerial roots, monstera cuttings must develop a new root from within the stem, which takes more time.
A Monstera deliciosa cutting with aerial roots that are actively growing ought to take root quite rapidly. The color and texture of the aerial root can be used to determine its age. It is new if it is flexible and white, light brown, or green in color. It will take a lot longer to begin producing new roots if it is stiff, dark in color, and has a lot of bark flaking off.
The aerial root typically transforms into a white, fluffy true root after a few weeks. The process of delaying feeder roots then requires a few more weeks. From the time the first fuzzy white root appears until your Monstera cutting is prepared for planting, allow a minimum of six weeks.
When a monstera root is in contact with a surface, feeder roots form more quickly. Try to use a short container while growing plants in water so that the root tip will immediately contact the bottom. The root will continue to grow without branching if the water is too deep.
I’ve had success using LiquiDirt to induce quicker root growth once roots have begun to emerge.
Switching straight from water to soil
Once your Monstera has enough roots to make the shift from its propagation medium to soil, remove it. For your roots, the switch from water to soil propagation is a significant one. This transition is more difficult than moving from moss or perlite to soil for propagation.
When you plant a Monstera cutting in soil, part of the roots may dry up or die if there aren’t enough of them. The “water roots” do not have as much fuzzy root hair to absorb water because they are accustomed to being constantly moist. They need some time to develop more fuzz so that they can absorb water from the earth.
Assume that up to one-third of the roots of your Monstera cutting will be harmed or die. You need to make sure that the new plant will be able to survive on the remaining roots.
You won’t harm your Monstera plant if its propagation media has too many roots growing in it. The nutrients in the soil and the microbiome of helpful bacteria that support soil roots are the major things you are losing out on. Your cutting will grow more quickly if you place it in soil.
I make an effort to take too many roots too lightly. I want to ensure that my cuttings survive the switch, even if they develop a little bit more slowly in the interim.
Switching to another medium before soil
Switching from water to soil is fine for low-cost plants. Try using perlite or moss instead of soil for pricey albo Monstera cuttings or any plant you want to be particularly cautious with.
Start propagating in water and continue doing so until your cutting starts to root. After that, while the roots are developing, swap to wet perlite or moss. In a firm medium, roots will branch out more and develop more fuzz. As a result, the plant’s roots are already prepared to absorb water from the soil, which lessens stress during the transition to soil.
Can Monstera live in water forever?
Your Monstera can be kept in water or some alternative media if you don’t want to plant it in soil. While water is sufficient on its own for proliferation, fertilizer is required to keep your Monstera in water over the long term.
Growing Monstera with Hydroponics
You must supply nutrients to the water when growing plants hydroponically for the growth to continue. There are three stages to permanently submerge your Monstera.
First, make frequent water changes. To prevent the growth of mold or algae, rinse the roots and maintain the container tidy.
A N-P-K fertilizer made specifically for hydroponics, like Dyna-Gro Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, should be used next. A nutrition solution is made of of water and fertilizer. To view the most recent pricing on Amazon, click the image or link.
Which is preferable for monstera propagation: soil or water?
Even while Monstera cuttings are generally fairly tolerant of the growing medium, location, and conditions, there are still a few things you may change to boost your chances of success or hasten your progress.
Time of year
It is not necessary to timing when you take a cutting, but keep in mind that winter, when plants are often dormant, may cause your cutting to start more slowly.
Time frame
The first thing to stress is the importance of patience. Some cuttings will immediately take root and quickly produce new leaves. Others may experience a protracted period of inactivity. Spring will frequently revive cuttings that had been dormant.
The best way to determine if your cutting is still in good shape while doing nothing is described below.
Light and warmth
Monstera cuttings thrive in warmth and light, and they will grow the quickest on a warm, sunny windowsill. It has been said that Monstera cuttings should be started with a heat pad, but in my experience, that is not true. A heat pad, however, could perhaps hasten the growth process.
Moisture
If they are in soil, they must also be maintained gently damp but not wet—wet feet are bad for them and will cause them to decay. Once a week, check their soil and, if it feels dry, give it a little water. It is not necessary to place a plastic bag over them, as is occasionally advised.
Size of cutting
More nodes and longer or larger stem sections tend to produce more new growth, including several new stems. Given that Monstera is a vine plant with a single long stem, this is significant. If your cutting produces leaf sprouts on several nodes, each of these will grow into a stem, resulting in bushier growth at a small size.
Growing medium
The benefit of propagating in water in a glass jar is that any new growth is visible right away. However, it is usually advisable to plant larger cuttings directly in the ground if they have leaves and aerial roots.
Water choice
You can use conventional tap water, but if it’s particularly hard, use caution and avoid using water that has been artificially softened. Both rainwater and distilled water are acceptable. If you submerge the majority of the stem part in water, leaves and roots will grow rather happily.
Soil mix
Use a light, freely draining potting compost when young plants and a more hummus-rich mixture as they mature.
Planting stems vertically with just the top inch above the soil is the simplest and most space-efficient approach to pot cuttings in soil.
I was concerned that for new leaves to grow, some stem nodes would need to be above the surface, but that wasn’t the case at all. Under the soil surface, new leaves began to emerge and easily pushed their way to the surface to spread out.
Potting up
If you have many stem cuttings that are housed in the same pot, you should separate them as soon as new growth appears. My own experiences indicate that, if handled correctly, Monstera are fairly resilient and don’t mind being disturbed.
You can bury the entire original stem cutting for a neater appearance rather than having to leave any of it above the soil line.