Low upkeep is required when caring for monstera plants. The interior of the plant must be at least 65 °F (18 °C) heated, preferably higher. Swiss cheese plants also require a lot of humidity and somewhat moist soil. A wooden or moss-covered pole placed in the center of the pot will offer the additional support that the aerial roots require.
Every year when the plant is young, repotting cheese plants is done to promote development and aerate the soil. Increase the size of your containers until you reach the biggest pot you intend to use. After then, the plant need a fresh top-dress of rich soil every year but can survive being root-bound for a number of years at a time.
Repotting Monstera is best done in the early spring before the plant develops new leaves.
When should a Monstera be repotted, and how?
You might be asking what you should do to maintain the health of your Monstera deliciosa if you’ve had it for a long. The solution (in part) is to periodically repot it into a bigger container to give it the space it needs to grow. Long-term storage of monsteras in small containers prevents them from ever reaching their “monster potential.”
Every two years, a Monstera deliciosa should be replanted, ideally in the spring as it starts to grow. Overgrown roots, a lack of new growth, and poor water retention are indications that a Monstera needs to be transplanted sooner rather than later.
This article will discuss some of these signals’ meanings and physical characteristics. It will be simpler to determine when a plant is prepared to go up to the next size of planter once you are aware of how a Monstera responds to being left in a pot that is too tiny.
How can you tell if Monstera is linked to its roots?
You must check your plant to see if its roots are bound, which can be done by doing the following actions:
- To prevent shattering or injuring them, turn the container on its side and support the plant’s stem carefully.
- If the pot is made of thin plastic, gently squeeze it to loosen the soil; if the pot is heavier, use a stick or ruler to do the same.
- If your Monstera stem won’t budge, try sliding it out and allow gravity assist in moving the plant and dirt ball instead than squeezing or tugging on it.
- If the plant gets stuck, you may need to break the container or cut it off. Once it loosens up, carefully slip the plant out and pull it out.
- Once you’ve got your Monstera out, carefully check the plant’s root ball to see if it’s root-bound.
Your Monstera plant is obviously root-bound if its roots are entwined and have assumed the shape of its container, leaving only a little amount of soil inside. Picking up the plant by the root ball and finding little to no soil in or around the roots is another indication.
Large white roots and a lot of loose soil will surround a healthy root ball. If it’s anything else, the root system is unquestionably the problem and needs to be fixed.
Fortunately, you and your Monstera can get back on track by simply following the instructions provided in this article!
When should I no longer repot Monstera?
You will slow down your Monstera plant’s growth and never realize the full potential of these lovely plants if you keep it in the same pot for an extended period of time.
Here are 5 indicators that your Monstera is ready for a larger pot that you may watch out for. It can be difficult to tell if your plant is ripe, but if you read this post, it will become evident.
Roots coming out of the drainage holes
This is an unmistakable indication that your Monstera deliciosa probably requires a new pot. Find a pot that is one size larger if you notice roots poking through the drainage holes.
For instance, only use pots with a maximum diameter of 10 inches if your plant is in an 8 inch pot. The potting mix will dry out in a decent amount of time while allowing for more growth to take place.
I’ll provide you with a complete list of more Monstera blog posts at the end of this article, as well as a link to my in-depth Monstera care and repotting piece that you can use to repot your own plant.
Your plant has slowed down in growth (or even stopped)
Even with abundant light, if your Monstera is excessively root-bound, the development will drastically slow down.
It’s time for a bigger pot if you’ve discovered that your plant isn’t growing any longer despite favorable conditions and is badly root-bound.
Your potting mix is drying out much faster than it used to
You might find it difficult to provide adequate water to your Monstera plant when the pot fills up with roots.
Additionally, if you have been strictly adhering to a watering schedule (such as once per week), you might discover that your plant needs water more frequently than once per week.
For those of you who don’t know me, I firmly think that you shouldn’t water your plants according to a precise schedule because your plant’s water requirements can change based on the season, how tightly its roots are tied, and many other things.
Over time, roots may fill the pot, potting soil may have been rinsed out from repeated waterings, and it gets harder and harder to maintain optimum moisture levels for your plant. In these situations, it’s likely that you also have roots poking through the drainage hole, which means you need to repot the plant.
You’re starting to get a lot of yellow leaves and brown crispy leaves
Continuing from the last point, if your plant is root-bound and you’re still following a tight watering schedule, this may be the reason why the bottom leaves on your plant are turning yellow.
Your watering regimen might have worked for a while, but as soon as your plant develops root rot, it will stop working.
Feel your potting mix as soon as you notice any yellow leaves (which can have a variety of causes). Your Monstera will likely grow yellow leaves if your plant is very root-bound and you aren’t watering it frequently enough.
Another potential symptom of a severely root-bound Monstera is the development of crispy, brown leaf tips.
For a few years, my plant in the picture above has been growing in the same 14-inch-diameter pot.
Even though I’ve noticed that it’s drying out much more fast than it used to, I’m not sure whether I want to repot a plant that is taller than me.
I will thus need to water my plant much more carefully in the meantime as I wait to find the motivation to repot such a large plant in order to maintain it healthy.
Also, keep in mind that pruning your Monstera’s brown leaf tips is quite OK!
It’s been more than 2-3 years since you last repotted
Even though the passage of time alone isn’t always a reliable indicator of whether your plant needs to be repotted, if 2-3 years have passed and you haven’t done so, especially if it’s in a smaller pot or is a young plant, it’s probably time!
It’s probably time for a bigger pot if you’ve observed a combination of at least two of the aforementioned characteristics, if not more.
Here are a few more blog pieces I published about caring for Monstera plants that you might like. I hope you enjoyed this one on when to repot Monstera.
How long should Monstera roots remain in their current pots?
You followed our advice on propagation first, and now you want to know when to plant your new Monstera. Wait until the longest, whitest, fuzzy roots may branch off into numerous, smaller roots. It is appropriate to bury your Monstera cutting in soil once these little feeder roots have grown to at least 3 inches (8 cm) in length.
Comparing the root volume to the size of the pot you want to put it in will help you determine when your cutting is ready to be planted. For instance, when the root volume of a small Monstera, such as an adansonii, could fit in a 2 inch (5 cm) container, the cutting might be planted (alone or with other cuttings).
I often wait until the roots of a Monstera deliciosa, which has stronger roots, can fill a 3.5 inch (9 cm) pot. I wait till the roots of an albo variegated Monstera deliciosa can fill a 4.5 inch (11 cm) pot. When an albo Monstera cutting is planted, the chance of leaf loss from transplant shock is reduced because the cutting has more roots.
How long does it take for a Monstera cutting to root?
The length of aerial root that is available determines how long it will take a Monstera cutting to root. Additionally, it depends on whether the aerial root was expanding actively prior to the cutting.
Usually, short aerial roots grow into a single, long new root. Longer aerial roots have the ability to begin producing new roots from both the sides and the tip, hastening the rooting process. Without aerial roots, monstera cuttings must develop a new root from within the stem, which takes more time.
A Monstera deliciosa cutting with aerial roots that are actively growing ought to take root quite rapidly. The color and texture of the aerial root can be used to determine its age. It is new if it is flexible and white, light brown, or green in color. It will take a lot longer to begin producing new roots if it is stiff, dark in color, and has a lot of bark flaking off.
The aerial root typically transforms into a white, fluffy true root after a few weeks. The process of delaying feeder roots then requires a few more weeks. From the time the first fuzzy white root appears until your Monstera cutting is prepared for planting, allow a minimum of six weeks.
When a monstera root is in contact with a surface, feeder roots form more quickly. Try to use a short container while growing plants in water so that the root tip will immediately contact the bottom. The root will continue to grow without branching if the water is too deep.
I’ve had success using LiquiDirt to induce quicker root growth once roots have begun to emerge.
Switching straight from water to soil
Once your Monstera has enough roots to make the shift from its propagation medium to soil, remove it. For your roots, the switch from water to soil propagation is a significant one. This transition is more difficult than moving from moss or perlite to soil for propagation.
When you plant a Monstera cutting in soil, part of the roots may dry up or die if there aren’t enough of them. The “water roots” do not have as much fuzzy root hair to absorb water because they are accustomed to being constantly moist. They need some time to develop more fuzz so that they can absorb water from the earth.
Assume that up to one-third of the roots of your Monstera cutting will be harmed or die. You need to make sure that the new plant will be able to survive on the remaining roots.
You won’t harm your Monstera plant if its propagation media has too many roots growing in it. The nutrients in the soil and the microbiome of helpful bacteria that support soil roots are the major things you are losing out on. Your cutting will grow more quickly if you place it in soil.
I make an effort to take too many roots too lightly. I want to ensure that my cuttings survive the switch, even if they develop a little bit more slowly in the interim.
Switching to another medium before soil
Switching from water to soil is fine for low-cost plants. Try using perlite or moss instead of soil for pricey albo Monstera cuttings or any plant you want to be particularly cautious with.
Start propagating in water and continue doing so until your cutting starts to root. After that, while the roots are developing, swap to wet perlite or moss. In a firm medium, roots will branch out more and develop more fuzz. As a result, the plant’s roots are already prepared to absorb water from the soil, which lessens stress during the transition to soil.
Can Monstera live in water forever?
Your Monstera can be kept in water or some alternative media if you don’t want to plant it in soil. While water is sufficient on its own for proliferation, fertilizer is required to keep your Monstera in water over the long term.
Growing Monstera with Hydroponics
You must supply nutrients to the water when growing plants hydroponically for the growth to continue. There are three stages to permanently submerge your Monstera.
First, make frequent water changes. To prevent the growth of mold or algae, rinse the roots and maintain the container tidy.
A N-P-K fertilizer made specifically for hydroponics, like Dyna-Gro Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, should be used next. A nutrition solution is made of of water and fertilizer. To view the most recent pricing on Amazon, click the image or link.
Does Monstera prefer large pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.