If you have prior expertise caring for plants, this should be quite simple because pruning aerial roots is no different from pruning any other sort of plant.
A pair of well-kept, razor-sharp, and sanitized shears is required. The shears must be sterile, just like with any kind of pruning. They could bring bacteria and fungi that could hurt or kill your plant if you don’t thoroughly clean them. Even though Monsteras are reputed to be rather robust and that is the worst-case situation, you don’t want to take any chances.
Cut immediately before the root touches the node or stem when you prune the aerial roots of your Monstera back to the stem. But be careful not to cut too near, as this might weaken the stem and provide a convenient entry point for pests, fungi, and bacteria to attack your plant. It’s crucial to eliminate the root entirely, not just a portion of it.
It is best to cut back the aerial roots of a Monstera Deliciosa after the growing season, which is typically in early spring and summer. You should be aware that pruning can promote aerial root growth, causing numerous roots to emerge where there was previously just one.
If you choose to cut a Monstera’s aerial roots, keep in mind that they are essential to the plant’s development. Even though the Monstera is intended to grow vertically, you may not want to encourage this growth. In addition to going against the plant’s nature, removing aerial roots will prevent it from absorbing part of the moisture that it would have through the roots.
How are aerial roots on Monstera used?
A gentle, damp cloth or a fast shower with lukewarm water can be used to clean your monstera’s leaves, especially the oldest ones on the plant, to eliminate any dust accumulation.
Only two fertilizer applications will be required for your monstera throughout the entire year: one in early spring and one in late summer.
Your monstera plant will eventually develop aerial roots from its stem. These aerial roots are there to support the plant; do not cut them off. If any aerial roots are too short to support a climbing plant, train them back into the soil to absorb more nutrients when they are long enough.
Should aerial roots of Monstera be submerged in water?
I’ve seen several sources advise you to put a bowl of water in the planter for your Monster deliciosa and trail its aerial roots in there. According to the theory, this is because aerial roots may actually absorb moisture. However, submerging them in water nonstop won’t likely accomplish much more than cause them to deteriorate and perhaps put your plant in risk.
However, you can frequently spray the aerial roots of your Monstera. Again, there is no scientific evidence that this makes a significant difference, but it won’t hurt. In addition, since these tropical plants prefer their surroundings to be moist, make sure the air humidity is not too low.
Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any additional queries regarding Monstera aerial roots or if you would want to discuss your own interactions with these magnificent tropical houseplants.
Is it okay to remove the aerial roots of Monstera?
Your Monstera naturally has aerial roots. No need to chop them off, please. As long as you use a clean, sharp blade and cut them back if they are blocking the path, it is acceptable.
The main plant of your Monstera won’t suffer if the aerial roots are cut off. These roots are designed to ascend, not to absorb nourishment.
For additional information on what to do with the aerial roots of your Monstera, keep reading!
Can aerial roots be planted in soil?
You can, indeed. The roots will continue to expand in the soil as a result and will have a function to absorb water and nutrients. Due to the lack of rain indoors, they are unable to absorb moisture when hung in the air, therefore they serve little purpose unless you periodically water or mist them.
With aerial roots, how do you repot Monstera deliciosa?
Because it is a tropical jungle plant, the Swiss cheese plant needs rich, nutrient-dense soil that retains moisture without becoming soggy. Peat moss is a fantastic addition to a typical, high-quality potting soil.
A pot with many of drainage holes and a depth deep enough to fit a stout stake should be chosen. The soil mixture should fill the bottom third of the pot. Lightly press the stake into the center. Very tall and mature cheese plants will require assistance from a second person to support the upper sections when being potted.
The original soil line on the plant should be slightly below the location of the new line when the base of the plant is placed within the container. The area around the aerial roots and base roots should be filled in. Utilizing plant ties, secure the stem to the stake by compacting the potting material around the stake.
Can I remove aerial roots?
You can, indeed. Your Monstera Deliciosa won’t suffer any harm if the aerial roots are cut, and they will quickly regrow. Although some individuals may find it an eyesore, you can also leave them alone. These air roots have a tendency to grow out of control and resemble wild cables. When cutting the air roots, take care not to harm the Monstera root node. However, remain composed and cut them off.
Why are the aerial roots on my Monstera shriveling?
The aerial root, a multipurpose component of the plant, frequently serves as a gauge for the health of the entire organism. Changes in its structure, color, and appearance indicate that some environmental elements have changed.
If the aerial roots’ appearance changes, it may not always be a bad thing; it could be a sign of aging.
However, you could notice many indicators if the aerial roots of Monstera are decomposing. The three symptoms of aerial root rot in Monstera plants are listed below.
Brown and mushy aerial root
The Monstera plant’s aerial roots turn brown and mushy if they are rotting.
Monstera is a plant that thrives in conditions of elevated soil and atmospheric humidity. However, excessive wetness, inadequate watering, or over-spraying the plant will tip the scales and cause the aerial roots to decay.
Spraying water onto aerial roots can cause water droplets to stick to them, changing their color and causing them to become mushy, brown, and decomposing.
Foul odor
In the container in which the plant is grown, a process known as root rot occurs. It is typically an advanced phase from which the plant can rarely recover when the disease first manifests in the plant’s aboveground portion.
An awful decay odor that emanates from the pot or the entire plant is one of the first indications that the rotting process has started. It is a result of the plant’s inability to absorb too much water.
Do monstera plants prefer little pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!