Size does matter when it comes to pots. Although you don’t want a pot that is excessively big or small, with Monsteras, smaller is always preferable to bigger! You must ensure that the roots have enough room to expand without drowning the plant due to an excess of rootless soil that is retaining water.
Monsteras don’t care how deep the pot is, therefore choosing a pot based on breadth is actually more crucial. You only need to be able to do some basic math and measurement.
A Monstera should be potted or repotted in a container that is roughly two inches wider than the size of the root growth at the time.
You should typically choose a pot that is eight inches wide for tiny Monsteras, and you could need a pot with a diameter of two feet for a fully grown plant. Although this is the general norm, the best course of action is to measure the roots.
Naturally, your Monstera will need to be re-potted as it develops to accommodate its new size! To help you determine when to update your pot, we’ll talk about how to recognize if it’s getting too small in the following section.
What size pot should I use for my Monstera?
It would also be preferable if you avoided planting your Monstera in a pot that is too tiny. Following are some indicators that your Monstera is ready for a new pot:
- The plant is top-heavy or falls over
- The leaves are thirsty and drooping.
- The soil no longer retains water or dries up too rapidly.
- You can see roots sticking out of the pot’s bottom.
Living in a pot that is too small can cause root crowding, stunted growth, and underwatering, especially when Monstera is young. Find a bigger pot now!
A seasoned Monstera accepts a little pot-boundness. Keeping your Monstera in the same-sized pot will stop it from growing as quickly once it reaches a large size and you don’t want it to become any bigger.
It will still require attention to prevent becoming very pot-bound. Every year in the early spring, you can trim the roots and top-dress your Monstera with new soil.
How to choose the perfect pot size
When repotting, select a pot with a diameter that is 2 inches (5 cm) greater than the existing size. This is just enough to allow the roots to spread and flourish, but not too much that a too-large pot will cause the soil to get soggy.
Does the height of the pot matter?
The ratio of height to depth is generally not dramatically different between pots. When it comes to the pot’s depth, monsteras are not very choosy.
Make sure the pot for your Monstera has enough depth to prevent a stake or moss pole from tipping over.
Does Monstera prefer large pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!
How can I tell whether my Monstera plant requires a larger pot?
In your home, monsteras can live a long life and develop into large, stunning eye-catchers. Normally, I’d advise repotting once a year, increasing the size of the container until the plant reaches the ideal size.
The first sign to repot a Monstera is when it’s outgrown its pot.
Repotting is necessary when the houseplant gets root-bound, which occurs when roots start to grow around the pot’s drainage holes and may be seen pushing up through them. For smaller or younger Monsteras, you will know for certain it’s time to upgrade the container if you can see the roots through the bottom. To ensure that the roots continue to grow healthily, you should relocate the containers as soon as possible. Your Monstera needs more room as it gets older, just like people do.
The second sign to repot a Monstera is when the soil has been depleted.
If you press strongly with your finger in one location, water will be discharged from below, or it will start to look dry and dusty on top. This indicates that the plant’s roots are in need of moisture and are running out.
Even after the swiss cheese plant has grown to fill its forever pot, it’s still wise to change the soil about once a year to give it a boost of new nutrients. However, because of their high adaptability and hardiness, these plants can survive in the same soil for a number of years. It’s a good idea to add fertilizer all year long, even if you replace the soil every year. Making your own fertilizer is a simple and affordable way to enrich your container with nutrients.
What kind of pot works best for Monstera delica?
Because you can see your plants’ roots and dirt, translucent pots are preferable. They make it simple to monitor the health of the roots, check for rot, and determine when your Monstera is rootbound and requires a pot upgrade. Additionally, you can monitor the amount of moisture in the soil, which aids in determining when to irrigate.
Although I think it’s cool, the view of the soil and roots might not be to your taste. Furthermore, very huge sizes of these pots are inaccessible.
Porous Pots
Terracotta, clay, and concrete pots that have not been sealed are porous, meaning that the materials have minute holes through which air and water can pass. Terracotta pots can offer a fantastic aesthetic and financial compromise. They are typically less expensive than other ceramic pots and may be found in the majority of hardware and garden centers.
Advantages: They typically have drainage holes, are simple to find matching saucers for, have a lovely natural look and texture, and speed up soil drying.
Cons: Heavy, difficult to see roots, and not waterproof, so if water seeps through, they could discolor the surface they are sitting on.
Porosity has the effect of causing your soil to dry out more quickly. Because Monstera prefer ventilation and good drainage, this is a great pot type to use with them. If you tend to overwater, this is an even better option! For additional advice, see our watering guide.
Non-Porous Pots
This category includes the vast majority of other pots. Non-porous materials include glazed ceramic, stone, fiberglass, resin, wood, and metal pots. Through the material or with the help of a coating, the pots have been rendered waterproof. A pot with non-porous walls will not allow air or water to pass through them.
Pros: The greatest selection of designs and colors, strong, unbreakable alternatives like metal and fiberglass, and options with drainage
Cons: When exposed to water, some of these materials may develop additional problems, such as rust on metal or rot on wood. With these kinds of pots, the roots are also hidden from view.
Without talking about soil, your choice of pot type for your Monstera is incomplete.
Do Monstera plants enjoy being rooted?
Monstera plants don’t prefer to be root-bound, thus no. The plant won’t be able to develop and support itself if there isn’t room for the roots to expand and reach additional nutrients and water in the soil.
Since new plants develop relatively quickly for the first four years or so, they should be repotted once a year. Every two to three years, older plants can be checked or given a new pot.
Even in otherwise ideal growing conditions, root-bound plants are stressed plants and will not fare as well as they otherwise could. They must use their meager energy reserves to concentrate on staying alive rather than producing new growth.
In fact, this may be the reason if you’ve noticed that your Monstera hasn’t sprouted any new leaves or, if this is still happening, that the existing leaves aren’t splitting. Because of this, Monstera plants should periodically be examined and replanted as necessary.
What does it mean for a plant to be root bound?
When someone refers to a plant as being “root bound” or “pot bound,” they are essentially saying that it has outgrown its container and has no room for its roots. A plant’s roots will begin to grow in circles along the pot’s outer border if it is kept in a container that is too small for it.
The name refers to how the pot’s available space limits how much room the plant’s roots can spread out. In certain situations, the plant’s roots will eventually encircle themselves, obstructing the soil’s ability to absorb nutrients, water, or air.
The concept is pretty similar to foot binding if you’ve ever heard of it, with the feet being deformed as they are kept in a small area. When plant roots become pot-bound or root-bound, the same thing takes place.
When grown outside and to some extent indoors, certain Monstera species can reach heights of up to twelve feet, therefore its root system is much more crucial than that of other small houseplants.
Sadly, many Monstera plants cultivated inside or outside in pots never achieve their full beauty and size simply because their root systems are confined in containers that are much too tiny for them.