A gentle, damp cloth or a fast shower with lukewarm water can be used to clean your monstera’s leaves, especially the oldest ones on the plant, to eliminate any dust accumulation.
Only two fertilizer applications will be required for your monstera throughout the entire year: one in early spring and one in late summer.
Your monstera plant will eventually develop aerial roots from its stem. These aerial roots are there to support the plant; do not cut them off. If any aerial roots are too short to support a climbing plant, train them back into the soil to absorb more nutrients when they are long enough.
Should aerial roots of Monstera be submerged in water?
I’ve seen several sources advise you to put a bowl of water in the planter for your Monster deliciosa and trail its aerial roots in there. According to the theory, this is because aerial roots may actually absorb moisture. However, submerging them in water nonstop won’t likely accomplish much more than cause them to deteriorate and perhaps put your plant in risk.
However, you can frequently spray the aerial roots of your Monstera. Again, there is no scientific evidence that this makes a significant difference, but it won’t hurt. In addition, since these tropical plants prefer their surroundings to be moist, make sure the air humidity is not too low.
Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any additional queries regarding Monstera aerial roots or if you would want to discuss your own interactions with these magnificent tropical houseplants.
Is it okay to remove the aerial roots of Monstera?
Your Monstera naturally has aerial roots. No need to chop them off, please. As long as you use a clean, sharp blade and cut them back if they are blocking the path, it is acceptable.
The main plant of your Monstera won’t suffer if the aerial roots are cut off. These roots are designed to ascend, not to absorb nourishment.
For additional information on what to do with the aerial roots of your Monstera, keep reading!
What are aerial roots used for?
Aerial roots serve a variety of purposes. They aid in the exchange of air, growth, stability, and nutrition. Aerial roots can frequently be cut off without endangering the plant. They are sometimes necessary for the health of the plant, though, and are better left alone.
How do I handle the aerial roots on my Monstera when I repot it?
The aerial roots of your Monstera can be used for a few different reasons as they grow. Although they won’t harm your plant and are actually a sign that your Monstera is growing very well, they can become sloppy, lengthy, and stringy, which may not be to your taste.
You might think about pruning back your Monstera’s aerial roots if they start to develop wild-appearing roots that are growing out of the pot and onto the ground. The plant won’t suffer if the aerial roots are cut close to where they connect to the stem. Be prepared for them to regrow, though.
As climbers, monsteras will always look for ways to support themselves. If the aerial roots disturb you, you might want to look at other plants that can survive without supports, such pothos, which can trail or climb a support.
Giving your Monstera something to cling onto is an excellent alternative if you don’t mind the aerial roots but want to encourage it. The most suggested option is a moss totem or pole, a support coated with coco coir or sphagnum moss where the Monstera can cling and eventually grow up. These can be made or bought.
Once everything is in place, all that needs to be done to assist the plant’s aerial roots to adhere is to identify the thickest, most mature stems and gently tie them to the pole. To keep the pole moist, you’ll need to spray it from time to time. This will replicate the search the Monstera would make while climbing a tree in the wild.
Additionally, some Monstera owners weave the strongest aerial roots through the brand-new moss pole. It is possible to do this, but it is not necessary and most likely won’t have a significant impact on how quickly your Monstera adapts to its new support system.
You might also just disregard the aerial roots. They are a sign that your Monstera is most likely ready to begin climbing, and your plant won’t suffer if you let it. Many people who possess Monsteras simply tuck stray aerial roots around the plant to prevent it from appearing too wild. In the end, how you grow your Monstera will depend on your personal preferences and long-term objectives.
Do I need to bury aerial roots?
Because they take in moisture and carbon dioxide, aerial roots on orchids are essential to the plant’s ability to develop healthy roots, leaves, and flowers. Even if the roots appear to be dead, this is true. The best course of action is to ignore the air roots.
Extensive aerial roots may indicate that your orchid is overgrown and requires a larger pot. Lower aerial roots can now be buried in the new container. Avoid forcing the roots since they can break if you do.
Do aerial roots develop into terrestrial ones?
You can, indeed. The roots will continue to expand in the soil as a result and will have a function to absorb water and nutrients. Due to the lack of rain indoors, they are unable to absorb moisture when hung in the air, therefore they serve little purpose unless you periodically water or mist them.
Can aerial roots regenerate?
You can, indeed. Your Monstera Deliciosa won’t suffer any harm if the aerial roots are cut, and they will quickly regrow. Although some individuals may find it an eyesore, you can also leave them alone. These air roots have a tendency to grow out of control and resemble wild cables. When cutting the air roots, take care not to harm the Monstera root node. However, remain composed and cut them off.
How is Monstera the aerial root trained?
You must fasten the Monstera to the moss pole once it is in the pot with the plant!
This will be a little simpler if your plant is still a young one. Tie the Monstera’s stem to the pole without pulling or bending excessively, making sure the nodes touch the wet moss. As a result, the aerial roots will be encouraged to encircle and grow into the moss pole.
This technique might need to be repeated whenever there is fresh growth. You can cut or loosen the ties once the aerial roots of the Monstera are securely fastened to the moss pole.
Your Monstera might not want to bend as much to attach to the moss pole if it is already pretty mature. This will require that you go extremely gently. Once the stem is up against the moss pole, tighten the ties every week to continue dragging it in that direction.
If the aerial roots of the Monstera are particularly lengthy, it can be beneficial for you to prune portions of them back. It will be more difficult to train them onto a support the longer they are. The aerial roots will generate more roots if you cut them close to the node; these roots will then develop into the moss pole.
Mist the Moss regularly.
The moss pole will draw the air roots of Monstera naturally, but only if it is moist. Regular misting of your moss pole will help your Monstera absorb extra moisture for its large, attractive leaves.
Use VELCRO garden tie.
VELCRO garden ties are a fantastic solution for securing your Monstera to the moss pole. There is no need to be concerned about tying a knot that will be strong enough because these plant ties attach to themselves. They are simple to put on and take off, and they won’t harm your Monstera’s stem.
The stems can also be attached to the moss pole using cable tie (zip tie). At least until the support begins to get hugged by the aerial roots. I performed this procedure on my Monstera Adansonii.
After purchasing, should I repot my Monstera?
Repotting is not frequently required for mature Monsteras. But there are several telltale signs that your Monstera needs to be repotted, such its size, water absorption, and how long it’s been since the last time.
Repotting mature Monsteras is typically advised every two years, while there are many variables to consider. Remember that every plant is unique when determining whether your Monstera has to be transferred to a new pot.
Younger plants can require more frequent repottings to keep up with their growth and ensure that they receive regular access to new soil. To ensure that your houseplant has adequate nutrients to keep growing, repotting the soil is recommended.
Do monstera plants prefer little pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!