Most of us picture Monsteras’ big, gorgeous leaves when we think of them. The odd aerial roots that emerge from the stem of this plant, however, are something we don’t frequently picture. Despite the fact that they are entirely natural and have no negative effects on your plant, you may still be confused by the strange roots on your Monstera deliciosa. Why do aerial roots exist? Do you need to do anything with them? Can you cut them back?
Roots that grow above ground are known as aerial roots. By adhering to surrounding structures, they frequently offer support for tropical trees and vine-growing plants (such Monsteras). The aerial roots of a Monstera deliciosa should not be used for anything. They can be cut back, though, if you don’t like the way they look.
If you have a lot of different houseplants, you could assume that Monsteras is the only plant with these peculiar roots. However, there are several instances of similar plant growth in nature. What function do they fulfil? What distinguishes aerial roots from those that grow underground? What should you do in response to them? Continue reading for solutions to these questions and more.
How should the roots of a monstera look?
You’ll see aerial roots emerging from the nodes on a monstera that has grown successfully. Younger roots may merely appear as lumps that develop into tiny green “branches.” Older aerial roots may start to turn brown or even woody. These roots have a tendency to spread far!
Over time, a robust monstera can have several aerial roots, which can make them messy to look at and challenging to pot. Your monstera may appear to be crawling out of the planter. If your monstera is attempting to scale your brand-new entertainment centre, it is advisable to keep those roots under control because they can also try to climb up your walls or furniture, damaging paint and finishes.
You have two choices if the aerial roots on your monstera are out of control: prune or support.
Do monstera roots need to be visible?
A gentle, damp cloth or a fast shower with lukewarm water can be used to clean your monstera’s leaves, especially the oldest ones on the plant, to eliminate any dust accumulation.
Only two fertiliser applications will be required for your monstera throughout the entire year: one in early spring and one in late summer.
Your monstera plant will eventually develop aerial roots from its stem. These aerial roots are there to support the plant; do not cut them off. If any aerial roots are too short to support a climbing plant, train them back into the soil to absorb more nutrients when they are long enough.
Are monstera’s roots large?
The same resources that Monsteras would compete for in a rainforest are not available when they are kept indoors. Even so, an established plant with a healthy root system will produce aerial roots from its nodes and stem.
These aerial roots may be green, white, or brown, among other hues. The aerial root will age and get darker and darker over time, and it may even sprout offshoots of other aerial roots.
The budding aerial roots may initially appear as little knobs or growths on the sides of your Monsteras stems. They will lengthen significantly over time. Aerial roots longer than three feet long have reportedly grown indoors in Monstera gardens.
Aerial roots are typically a positive sign that a node would make a good choice for a cutting when propagating. Cutting beneath nodes with numerous aerial roots is frequently advised, but it’s crucial to remember that these aerial roots won’t develop into typical, below roots. Keep in mind that these roots differ fundamentally from one another.
A young Monstera probably won’t have any aerial roots visible. As the Monstera becomes older and needs more help to keep growing, these typically appear.
How can the health of a monstera root be determined?
Knowing the symptoms of Monstera root rot is essential if you want to stop an infection from spreading and harming your lovely Swiss cheese plant.
Here are a few warning indications of root rot for your Monstera, listed in order of severity. Your Monstera will have a better chance of surviving if you catch root rot as soon as possible!
Early Detection
In Monstera, sluggish growth, wilting foliage, and yellow leaves are early indicators of root rot. All of these indicate that you need to inspect the soil around your Monstera plants to make sure it hasn’t been too moist for too long. Your Monstera can successfully recover from a case of root rot with the right care and early detection.
Stagnant growth
If your Monstera isn’t developing as quickly as it typically does, this is just known as stagnant growth. This is a typical wintertime occurrence as the days become shorter and the temperature decreases. When given insufficient amounts of light, fertiliser, or water, monsteras also experience a growth slowdown.
It’s not necessarily the case that your Monstera’s roots are decaying only because its growth is slowing down; nevertheless, if you don’t also reduce the frequency of its watering, it’s possible.
A plant like a Monstera that grows slowly won’t require as much water, while a stagnant plant’s roots could rot from too much water.
Wilted leaves
Wilted leaves are a sign that the earth is not providing enough water to your Monstera plant. Check the soil of your Monstera plant to see if it is damp or dry if it is withering.
Simply put, your Monstera needs water if the soil is dry. You should give it a good, lengthy drink of water as usual.
Your Monstera’s roots are most likely rotted and unable to absorb the existing water if the soil is already damp and it is droopy. You should now examine your Monstera’s roots and check for decay.
Yellow Leaves
Numerous things, such as overwatering and root disease, might be indicated by yellow Monstera leaves. If your Monstera stays in wet soil, the next stage after drooping leaves is yellowing leaves.
Check the soil and roots of your Monstera for excess moisture and rot if it has yellow leaves.
Advanced Root Rot
Your Monstera’s health will deteriorate if the early warning symptoms are disregarded or overlooked.
Black stains on the leaves, smelly roots, and discoloured roots are indications of advanced root rot. These symptoms indicate that your Monstera requires emergency attention.
To keep the plant alive, you will need to perform a thorough check and remove any dead or dying components.
Root discoloration
Like other plants, your Monstera should have whitish roots. When root rot takes hold, the rotting roots become mushy and slimy and turn brown or black. This is only visible if you delve into the soil or remove your Monstera’s pot to look at the roots.
All dark and discoloured roots on your Monstera must be removed in order to treat the root rot; otherwise, the illness will continue to grow.
Foul odor roots
If you put your face close to the soil of your Monstera plant and the scent of something rotting is there, something definitely is rotting, and it’s probably the roots of your Monstera plant.
It will be more difficult to maintain your Monstera alive at this time the worse the odour, the larger the infection, and the tougher it will be.
Black spots on leaves
Your Monstera’s leaves will start to develop black spots, occasionally with yellowing around the area. This suggests that the virus has already begun to spread across the entire plant.
Root rot will gradually grow up the roots, up the stem, and out to the leaves of the entire plant. You may recognise that this is taking place by looking for black or brown dots on the leaves.
Beyond Saving
Unfortunately, sometimes we don’t notice root rot’s warning symptoms until it’s too late. Your Monstera is doomed once the rot destroys all the roots and advances up into the stem.
If there are any remaining uninfected stem segments, propagating them would be your sole remaining option for saving your Monstera at this time.
Roots all dead
Once all of your Monstera’s roots have died, it is doubtful that it will survive. The existence of every plant depends on its roots, despite the fact that we cannot see them. If your Monstera has no roots, it cannot absorb nutrients or water and will probably perish from dehydration.
Dark and Mushy stem
The main stem of your Monstera will turn black and mushy after the rot has spread there. The Monstera will soon die since the rotting stem cannot provide nutrients and water to the foliage.
Why don’t my Monstera’s roots grow upward?
Don’t forget to check out my DIY moss post technique. You can create one that is superior than anything currently on the market! I always found the quality of pre-made moss poles to be lacking, so I decided to make my own and am very glad I did.
Are moss posts required? Not at all, no. In reality, I created a simple bamboo tripod for my non-variegated plant and tied the vines to it for support.
Why doesn’t my Monstera have aerial roots?
Your Monstera delciosa is probably still too young in most circumstances. The aerial roots will start to show as your plant gets older and expands.
It may take some time before aerial roots begin to grow if your plant is still a young one like the one below.
Why are my Monstera roots shriveling?
The aerial roots of Monsteras are radically different from those of Phalaenopsis orchids, which would shrivel up if not given enough moisture.
Even when the humidity in the house is quite low throughout the winter, my plants still remain perfectly lush and solid despite never being misted or wet.
Check for physical injury if you see that the aerial roots on your Monstera are shrivelling.
Maybe at one time you broke or snapped the roots by accident. Just cut off anything that has dried out or become shrivelled.
Review your growing circumstances and make sure your Monstera plant care is up to par if your aerial roots are still shrivelling or dying at the tips despite no visible physical harm.
Check out my Monstera Problems post for more than a dozen problems with solutions if you need assistance solving any issues with your plant.
Do you have any further queries I didn’t address in this post? Comment below. I’d adore to assist!
Should aerial roots of Monstera be submerged in water?
I’ve seen several sources advise you to put a bowl of water in the planter for your Monster deliciosa and trail its aerial roots in there. According to the theory, this is because aerial roots may actually absorb moisture. However, submerging them in water nonstop won’t likely accomplish much more than cause them to deteriorate and perhaps put your plant in risk.
However, you can frequently spray the aerial roots of your Monstera. Again, there is no scientific evidence that this makes a significant difference, but it won’t hurt. In addition, since these tropical plants prefer their surroundings to be moist, make sure the air humidity is not too low.
Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any additional queries regarding Monstera aerial roots or if you would want to discuss your own interactions with these magnificent tropical houseplants.
Why do the aerial roots on my Monstera grow so long?
The presence of aerial roots on your monstera plant is natural and not a sign that anything is wrong. The monstera plant is a climbing plant in its natural environment.
The plant’s climbing behaviour is only partially manifested in the form of aerial roots. They are there to aid in its expansion. They may be an aesthetic nightmare, but they’re not dangerous.
Should you remove your monstera plant’s aerial roots? or just let them be? I’ll address all of your concerns about what to do with the aerial roots of the monstera plant below.
Do monstera plants require deep pots?
How do you choose the right pot for your Monstera when there are so many available?
Monstera needs a container with sufficient drainage so the soil may flow freely.
The substance you select for your Monstera’s pot will depend on a number of variables, including how much water it receives and the type of environment it inhabits. For your Monstera to be able to climb a stake or moss pole, the pot needs to be deep enough.
To learn more about picking the ideal pot for your Monstera, continue reading:
Do monstera plants prefer little pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighbourhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertiliser every other time you water. You can fertilise your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognise. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertiliser. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertiliser. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertiliser and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mould on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!