So how do you determine when to harvest the Monstera seeds?
Wait until the cone seems to be separating at the bottom and the fruit’s interior is visible. Simply break the fruit from the stem when it is time to pick it from the plant.
Fruit that is just partially ripe cannot be eaten. In fact, you must refrain from consuming any portion of the fruit whose exterior is colored green.
If you eat an unripe Monstera fruit, you could get severe throat irritation and possibly even breathing problems. Fruits should be kept in a paper bag until they are ripe, several days at a time.
Even if you don’t plan on eating the fruit, you should still wait for it to ripen because it will make it simpler to harvest the seeds.
The hexagonal berries inside the Monstera fruit must be broken apart in order to obtain the seeds. The seeds are often either white or light green in hue.
What is a Monstera Deliciosa’s location of the seeds?
Well-developed and established wild Monsteras do yield fruit, but the one in your home is probably never going to. The fruit has an irregularly shaped resemblance to a pine cone or a corn cob and tastes something like bananas and pineapples mixed with other tropical fruits. The seeds are scattered haphazardly throughout the fruit pulp inside of this fruit.
The fruit is typically harvested before it is fully ripe. Although it is not yet edible, it can be brought indoors to become ready for harvest. The Monstera fruit’s honeycomb nature makes it simple to break it apart and open each piece to look inside for seeds.
Although Monsteras rarely bear fruit inside, if you’re fortunate enough to reside in an area where they can grow wild (such as Florida or Hawaii), you might be able to go outside and gather some fruit! Plan to order your seeds from a reliable source online if you don’t have access to a lot of wild Monsteras.
How difficult is it to start a Monstera plant from seed?
A Monstera can also be grown from seed. If you’re lucky and have a Monstera that is in bloom, you can use the flower’s seed after the fruit has finished ripening. Otherwise, buy it from a shop. Although Monstera seeds are quite simple to obtain, they don’t have a long shelf life, so the sooner you plant them, the better.
First, let the seeds soak in lukewarm water for 12 hours. The seeds ought to slightly swell. Next, bury the seed in a thin layer of soil and maintain soil moisture. Although you don’t need much light, it helps to accomplish this in a warm environment, so keep it out of direct sunshine. A young Monstera initially begins to swell toward the night. A little sapling will grow from the ground in 10 to 3 weeks. Before it obtains the typical fenestrated leaves, it will take some time.
How long does it take a Monstera Deliciosa seed to mature?
One of the popular houseplants you can’t miss if you’re getting into the houseplant hobby is Monstera Deliciosa, often known as the Swiss Cheese Plant. What more could a houseplant enthusiast want for? They have magnificent, recognizable leaves that can get as big as your head and just have that lovely potential to take over half a room. These plants can be grown from seed, which is surprising but really excellent news, and it’s also not too difficult if you have the fundamentals down pat!
Getting the Seeds to Grow:
You may or may not have read my very first blog entry on this site, How to Grow Houseplants from Seed, which outlines the essential requirements for the majority of houseplants to germinate.
The optimal arrangement is a miniature greenhouse with a heat pad and grow lights because light, humidity, and warmth are necessary for growing Monsteras as well as most other houseplants. The seeds should be kept in an area that is regularly between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit if you don’t have a heat pad, and if you don’t have grow lights, you should maintain them in a location that receives bright but indirect light (an east, west or north-facing window out of direct sunlight can work).
Following completion of the fundamental setup, follow these instructions for actually preparing and planting the seeds:
1) Seed care: Germination of Monstera Deliciosa seeds is actually the simple part; the challenging part is keeping the seeds fresh and healthy. When it comes to Monsteras, freshness is important; the freshest seeds are hard and green, yellow, or light brown in color. They are difficult to maintain fresh since you can’t let them acquire too much moisture or let them dry out. They can be kept fresh and at a good moisture level by storing them in sphagnum moss in the refrigerator until you’re ready to plant them. I often advise planting the seeds a week after getting them to reduce the likelihood that they may lose viability.
It’s typically okay if the seeds are a bit dried out, but if they start to shrivel up and look predominantly tan or brown, they may not have much time left. However, even a little wrinkling doesn’t significantly affect viability.
2) Pre-soak: If the seeds are exceptionally fresh, pre-soaking is advised but not necessary. To prepare the seeds for planting, fill a container with hot or warm water, add the seeds, and let them soak there for 24 to 48 hours. This will assist in removing the outer coating to facilitate seed germination and, if necessary, rehydrate any dried-out seeds.
3. Set-up: You can go to this page I have here on houseplant seed set-ups for information on several set-up techniques that will work for Monstera Deliciosa seeds. The paper towel method is the best if you want to observe the seeds grow, but the ziploc bag or little greenhouse setup would also work well. I’ll keep using the tiny greenhouse approach.
Use a peat-based potting mix that has been saturated with warm distilled water or rainwater when planting seeds in soil, whether you are planting them directly into the ground or after they have already started to sprout.
Plant the seeds with just a thin layer of dirt covering them, then cover the planter with a dome, whether it be a greenhouse dome, a glass dome, or even just a ziploc baggie. If there is condensation inside the dome, the setup is likely at a good temperature and humidity level.
4) Maintenance: Keep the soil moist and in a bright, warm location, and keep an eye out for any signs of mold or fungus growth (never soggy). Within a month, and within two weeks under the ideal circumstances, the seeds should begin to sprout. Dig around in the dirt to see if you can find the seeds if you don’t observe any activity during that period. In general, seeds will germinate more quickly in warmer climates.
You can start taking care of your happy Monstera seedlings as you would an adult plant now that they are on their way to developing their first leaves with fenestrations. Here are some essential maintenance tips for Monstera Deliciosa.
Care for Monstera Deliciosa Plants:
Light: If you’re growing your Monstera indoors, give it bright, indirect light. If you’re growing it outdoors, give it shade. The leaves might become burned by too much direct sunlight.
Temperature: You should generally keep them between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can survive in either range, but you should try to limit temperature swings.
Water: During the growing season, give them a weekly drink to give the soil time to dry up. Water them less frequently in the cooler months when their growth slows. Occasionally spraying them or placing a humidifier near them can also be beneficial.
Fertilizing: Since they often don’t require much, limit your fertilization to two or three times each week during the growing season.
That concludes basic seed germination and Monstera Deliciosa care! I hope this article was helpful; if so, please leave a comment or get in touch with me directly.
Are there variegated Monstera seeds?
Variegated monstera seeds are unavailable. However, you can purchase monstera seeds. Additionally, the odds of getting a variegated one are one in a million.
How is Monstera made into fruit?
Monstera plants have a lower level of hardiness outside of their native tropical habitat. For them to truly thrive, warm temperatures and humidity are necessary. Here are some suggestions for the ideal environments in which to keep your plant.
Light and Temperature
Bright, filtered light is ideal for your monstera plant. It will burn if exposed to too much direct sunlight, yet it only needs a little!
Because of this, growing monstera deliciosa in either full or partial shade is preferable. Make sure there is enough of ambient lighting, but wherever possible, stay out of the direct sunlight.
This tropical should be kept at a temperature between 68 and 86 degrees. Growth will halt if the temperature falls below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid cold temperatures completely as it will cause your plant to perish.
The USDA zones 10 and 11 are the best for growing this plant outdoors because they have the correct temperature range. Your plant may grow as tall as 10 feet when planted outside, provided it has adequate support. This rarely occurs inside.
People in other zones should choose to keep their plant exclusively indoors. Give your jungle plant the appropriate temperature range and plenty of humidity!
Water and Humidity
Your monstera deliciosa is vulnerable to decay if it receives too much water. However, if you give it too little, it could wilt. Let’s talk about how to water your plant effectively and give it the correct amount of humidity.
It’s time to water when the soil is dry down to about 2 inches from the surface. Water should be available at the plant’s base. Completely fill the pot, then let the extra water drain away. To ensure that the soil has absorbed adequate water, repeat this process two or three times.
Pour off any extra liquid that remains in the plant’s tray once it has finished draining for the last time. You can omit this step if you’re not using a tray.
Reduce the frequency of your waterings in the winter. Don’t let the plant wilt; instead, wait until 3–4 of the soil is dry. Wintertime reduces the amount of water that monstera needs.
High humidity is ideal in terms of humidity. Your plant, though, can endure periodically drier conditions.
You can spritz the area around your plant to keep it humid. In order to allow the surplus water to dry, misting should be done twice a week and in the morning.
With monstera, there is also an additional step. If your plant is indoors, you might need to clean the leaves. Pour a few dish soap droplets into a bowl of water. Use a clean cloth dampened with water to clean the leaves, wringing out any excess. A monthly cleaning will prevent pest problems and lessen dust accumulation on the leaves.
Although it can grow in slightly sandier soils, Monstera deliciosa favors peaty, well-draining soil. Your soil ought to be nutrient-dense and capable of retaining rainwater without becoming wet.
I prefer to use a regular potting mix that has extra peat moss mixed in. Surprisingly, this works well. If your potting mix doesn’t already contain perlite, adding some will enhance drainage.
Finding a liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer is the first and most common option. When diluted in a gallon of water, use roughly a half-teaspoon of that. Replace a regular watering session with that, and apply it directly to the soil. When you’re finished, make sure to empty any extra liquid into the plant’s tray.
You might also use granular fertilizer with a delayed release. Find one that has a balanced NPK and a sufficient amount of magnesium. Use one with organic nitrogen sources instead, as the plant can use these more readily.
Apply 1/4lb of the granular, if using, every eight weeks for the duration of the plant’s initial growing season. Winter is not the time to fertilize. Increase the fertilizer to 1lb during the following years. During the growing season, cut back on fertilizing to two or three times each week.
A yearly soil drench is also recommended for Monstera deliciosa, which grows best in sandy soil with a low pH. Early summer is the ideal time to do this, with June being the best month. To give your plants the essential iron boost, combine chelated iron and water.
You can grow Monstera deliciosa from seed, cuttings, division, or air layering.
Due to the scarcity of seeds, this method can be challenging. It’s crucial to plant the seed right away because these plants don’t typically yield fruit and the seed has a limited shelf life. After applying a thin layer of dirt on top, keep the area moist until it begins to sprout in a few weeks. It will take a long time for seeds to mature into larger plants.
Fresh, healthy leaves with aerial roots attached should be used as cuttings. Make sure your cutting has those roots by making a clean cut below a leaf node. Your clipping can be inserted either into prepared potting soil or water. It is not required to use rooting hormones because monstera produces new roots quite quickly.
An excellent option for elder plants is division. Some of the suckers can be divided into foot-long pieces and gently pressed into the ground. Your plant will start to expand as new roots form.
The final method is known as air layering. Sphagnum moss should be moistened and the extra water squeezed out. Wrap it around the joint where the leaf axil and aerial root meet.
Once in position, secure the moss with twine and cover with plastic (either plastic wrap or a plastic bag). Make sure the bag has air vents or holes that can be poked to let air in. Within a few months, new roots should appear; you may then cut it off below the roots and transplant it.
Every two years or so, Monstera deliciosa should be transplanted. When it has outgrown its current pot, transplant it if it is growing more quickly. Aim for a pot that is two times broader than the one before it because it will give you plenty of room.
Make sure your container is deep enough to hold a substantial stake or trellis and has lots of drainage holes. You’ll need something for this plant to crawl up because it is a natural climber!
A prepared soil mixture should occupy the bottom third of your planter. Your monster plant should be carefully unpotted and placed. Tuck in any aerial roots and fill to the height at which it was previously planted.
Once the plant is in position, push down the soil around it to firmly anchor it, adding extra soil as necessary. Make sure it is secure before setting up a large stake or trellis. The plant stem can then be secured to the support using plastic ties or strips of fabric.
After repotting, give your plant a thorough, deep soaking to make sure the soil is retaining moisture. The regular cycles of fertilizing and watering can then be resumed.
The best time to transplant your monstera deliciosa is in the winter or near the end of it. The plant will become more active again in the spring during this time when it is not producing much new growth.
Training & Pruning
Monstera deliciosa is a climber by nature, and in its native environment, it may easily grow to a height of ten feet. Its aerial rootlets will precisely grab onto tree bark in a manner akin to a tentacle. These rootlets don’t cause any harm, unlike most other climbing plants. They are only used for supporting the plant.
As a result, indoor growers will probably wish to offer some kind of assistance. This could be a trellis made of wood or a wooden stake or board. The finest options are wood or other organic materials because they are the simplest for plants to grasp.
Make sure your support is securely fastened to the ground. The huge leaves do have some weight, even though the plant doesn’t get top heavy.
Most pruning is done for aesthetic purposes or to stop new development. Cut 1/4 above the stem junction to remove lower leaves that are dying off. This makes it possible to remove the entire leaf without endangering the plant’s stem.
Using a pair of clean, sterile pruning shears, it is simple to cut off aerial roots that have grown out of control. You can tuck the rootlets into the pot rather than trimming them off if they are close to the soil.
You can also delete extra growth where you don’t want it as needed. Keep in mind that the plant still needs some leaves, so don’t remove too many at once, and don’t cut the main stalk.
Monstera Deliciosa Fruit: How To Eat It Safely
The tropical salad fruit is another name for the fruit of the monstera deliciosa. Its name has merit because it is said to taste like a combination of pineapple, mango, and banana!
The oxalic acid in this fruit will burn your tongue and throat if it is not ripe. Additionally, it could have tiny black flecks of concentrated acids. How can you determine when to harvest?
The fruit will first develop on the plant as a spathe and spadix. The spathe, or ultimate fruit, is surrounded by a large bloom like a leaf. Around the fruit, the spadix grows what appear to be greenish scales.
Your fruit is starting to ripen but isn’t quite ready yet as the lowest portion of the scales starts to turn yellow. Wait until the fruit’s bottom scales start to peel up and reveal the corn-like fruit underneath.
Cut the fruit free from the stem once the scales begin to peel back, then put it in a paper bag to continue to ripen. You can consume the exposed fruit when the scales have fallen off, removing any visible black flecks. Throw away these specks. They are calcium oxalate residue and may cause irritation.
Don’t try to further peel back the scales by applying pressure to them. The fruit will mature very slowly since it needs time for the fruit’s carbohydrates to turn into sugars. The only sections that can be eaten are those whose scales have fallen off.
When ripe, this fruit can be eaten, or it can be turned into a unique jam. Still, those who are hypersensitive to oxalic acids or oxalates ought to stay away from it. Enjoy your uncommon surprise from the jungle if you’re not sensitive, though!
Here is a little video of the fruit maturing along with a description of its flavor.