Should You Water Monstera After Repotting

Soon after potting, thoroughly water the pot. Resuming a monthly feeding with liquid fertilizer when watering after a week or two of waiting.

The Swiss cheese facility might just outgrow its capacity. The plant can grow up to 10 feet (3 meters) tall in its natural habitat. This is typically too tall for a residential environment, but the plant responds nicely to trimming, and you can even save any cuttings and use them to start a new plant.

Check for spider mite infestations and keep the leaves clean. With proper care, this plant with glossy foliage has a long lifespan and will provide you with its beautiful lacy leaves for many years.

After repotting, do Monsteras experience shock?

After being moved, repotted Monsteras frequently experience transplant shock. This is typical and happens to some extent after plants have been transplanted in many cases. There are, however, certain measures to reduce the commotion.

  • When you take the Monstera out of its old pot, try to avoid disturbing the roots too much and transfer as many roots as you can to the new pot.
  • Avoid damaging the root ball or shaking soil from the Monstera’s rigid roots when removing it from the pot. Attempt to maintain moisture in the root ball when it is out of the pot at all times. The plant may suffer harm as a result of a dry root ball.
  • After your Monstera has established into its new container, give it a good watering to hydrate it. It can become acclimated to its new environment and lower the danger of transplant shock by drinking plenty of water.

Once your plant has been repotted, don’t forget to exercise caution. Watch it closely and look out for any indications that your Swiss cheese is in trouble. Among the primary indications of distress are:

  • drop-dead leaves
  • colored leaves
  • fading leaves

If you see these symptoms, take good care of your Monstera by providing it with the proper quantity of moisture, light, nutrients, and humidity so that it has the best chance of healing. Additionally, you will need to be patient as your Monstera heals itself. While mature Monstera may take months or even years to recover, younger Monstera usually does so in a matter of weeks.

Best After Care for Repotting

Put the Monstera back in its original spot once it has settled into the new pot. Transplant shock is less likely if you maintain the same circumstances for the plant. The same environment must be maintained as a result.

Watering the Monstera well right away after relocating it is one of the most crucial measures. Don’t overlook this step because it can lower the possibility of transplant shock while also promoting the growth of your plant. Avoid overwatering the plant when you water it because it’s important to prevent the roots from getting soaked.

Additionally, refrain from applying any fertilizer for around 4 weeks after transplant. By doing this, the burning of the young roots can be avoided.

Last but not least, it should have a lot of humidity and ample bright indirect sunlight. The plant will develop most quickly and have the best chance of avoiding shock if it is kept by a northern window.

After repotting, how do I bring back Monstera?

A monstera plant frequently dies as a result of low humidity, being underwatered, and cold weather. Monstera are tropical plants that require thorough watering every 7 days, temperatures between 60F and 85F, and regular misting. Drought-related death of the monstera is indicated by brown, curled, or drooping leaves.

It is crucial to mimic the environment of a dying monstera, including humidity levels of around 30 percent, temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, direct sunlight, and a watering cycle that involves thorough soaking followed by a brief period of drying out for the top inch of the potting medium.

Continue reading to find out the causes of your monstera plant’s (Swiss cheese plant) demise and how to put the answers into practice to bring it back to life.

Why is my Monstera wilting now that it has been repotted?

Monstera plants, sometimes referred to as the Swiss Cheese Plant, have long been the most beautiful and admired indoor plants on social media.

Monstera are simple to grow and care for, but if left unattended, they will pout and droop.

Although it can be painful to see your brand-new potted plant looking limp and dejected, don’t panic! With a little gentle loving care, the plant can be repaired.

Lack of water is the main cause of the drooping of the replanted Monstera leaves. The delicious plant’s shiny appearance is a result of its somewhat wet soil. Other factors include poor fertilization, stress from repotting, uneven watering, insufficient light, pests, and illnesses.

The good news is that if you treat this plant properly, it is fairly hardy and will quickly regain its vigor.

Please read on to learn more about repotting Monstera, what causes drooping, how to prevent it, and most importantly, how to nurse your plant back to health.

Step 1: Choose the best time.

Repotting works well in the early spring. During this time, your monstera will likely experience a growth surge, so it should recover from repotting swiftly.

However, if your plant is indicating that it needs to be replanted sooner, go ahead and do so. These plants are hardy, so you should repot them right once if the roots are soaking up water or if they are bursting through the pot.

Step 2: Pick your new pot.

Start by choosing a pot that is several inches deeper and just slightly wider than your old one. If your plant currently has a moss pole or you intend to add one in the future, you want it to be deep enough to accommodate it.

You don’t want to go overboard because an overly large container can hold more water than the plant can consume, which can cause over-watering and root rot. (If root rot is present in your monstera, use our Root Rot Treatment.)

How soon should I water after repotting?

  • A day or two before you intend to re-pot your plant, give it a good soak. This will lessen the chance of shock and make it easier to remove your plant from its pot. It will also keep it well-hydrated.
  • Remove the plant’s pot gently. You might need to tip the pot on its side or ask a buddy to hold it while you grab the plant, depending on its size and how much it is root-bound. Slide a butter knife along the pot’s edge to loosen roots for plants with dense root systems.
  • Loosen the root ball slowly. Shake off any extra soil being careful not to bruise the delicate roots. Sharp shears should be used to prune off any brown, black, or obviously injured roots. Trim up to 2/3 of the root mass beginning at the bottom and edges of the plant if you have plants that are heavily root-bound or if you only intend to repot them without potting them up into a larger planter.
  • If merely repotting, remove all of the soil from the pot and rinse it with hot water to remove any sediment. When choosing a new pot for your plant, make sure it is clean and no more than two diameters larger than its previous container. Too much room might cause root rot and poor growth.
  • We advise adding a.5 layer of activated charcoal to the bottom of your pot if you are potting into a container without drainage. To increase drainage, some people advise placing a layer of stones at the bottom of any pot; however, it’s uncertain whether this is effective, thus pebbles are not included as long as the pot has drainage. After that, add some fresh potting soil to the bottom of the pot so that the plant’s base will be about.5 inches below the rim.
  • Place your plant in the fresh container, then fill it with dirt and air until all the roots are covered. While carefully compacting the dirt to remove any air pockets, be careful not to damage the fragile roots. Lightly water the new soil to keep it moist but not drenched.

Plants frequently go through a shock period after repotting or potting up. It’s normal, so don’t worry! Although plants may seem thirsty and wilted, wait to water them for approximately a week after repotting to make sure any roots harmed during the process have recovered. Plants should be located in a cooler, more shaded area while they are recovering.

Fertilizer is usually present in potting soil. You can wait around 6 weeks after re-potting before fertilizing to avoid over-fertilizing and harming your plant.

Nutrient Boost from Fresh Soil Most of the nutrients in the soil are absorbed by your houseplant. The soil loses more and more of its fertility over time. After a few successful growing seasons, you could notice that your plant starts to act generally “unhappy” or starts to grow little, oddly colored leaves. Repotting (or potting up) with new soil gives your plant the nutrient boost it needs to thrive, even if you fertilize frequently.

Improved Watering Have you ever noticed that when you water, it seems to seep out of the pot’s bottom right away? Your plant is probably root bound, a condition in which the plant desperately needs more room and the roots have wrapped themselves around the pot’s outside. This makes channels for the water to flow through, which is why it is exceedingly challenging to actually water a root-bound plant. Repotting will help your plant access the water it requires to keep its thirst quenched and leaves lush by clearing these roots from obstruction.

New Growth = breathing room!

Even indoor plants enjoy a little breathing room. To encourage fresh development is another motivation to release plants from their root restrictions. Repotting a plant can result in a remarkable and bountiful recovery. Your plant will be happier and grow more quickly if it has a robust, expanding root system.

Health Promotion Have you ever overwatered a plant? Not to worry. All of us do. Root decay is the problem. Overwatering damages roots, which turn dark brown or black as a result. In this condition, they are prone to illness and unable to absorb water (which is why an over-watered plant can sometimes seem thirsty). Cutting off these damaged roots is your best line of protection against fungus and disease and aids in a plant’s recovery from excessive watering.

Plant babies: Divide and conquer! Many plants can be divided to create new plants when they get overcrowded. It is best to take advantage of re-potting time to divide pups and offshoots into independent plants.

Reminder: Delay repotting if your plant is stressed! For instance, if the plant is wilting from thirst, it is advisable to bathe it and let it recover before repotting. Similar to how excessive weather, such heat waves, can create stress, try to avoid repotting during those times.

How long does Monstera take to recover after being repotted?

Your newly transplanted Monstera is likely to exhibit indications of stress even if you take every precaution. Wilting is the symptom that is easiest to see.

Additionally, your Monstera’s roots have been harmed, making it difficult to determine whether it is healthy.

If you’ve been cautious, it won’t take long before you begin to notice progress. Your Monstera ought to be fully recovered in a week or two.

When given the right care, tropical superstars recover swiftly. You ought to be able to take pleasure in the beauty of the leaves once more as they recover from their previous splendor.

How long do plants remain shocked after being replanted?

This can differ greatly. For many smaller plants, it only takes a few weeks for them to fully recover. It may take months or even years for larger plants or trees to recover completely from transplant shock.

With proper care, a straightforward case of wilting after repotting can be cured, and frequently the plant shows no more indications of damage. Dead or damaged foliage may result from a more serious condition. Although this does not fully recover, new, healthy foliage will eventually take its place.

My plant died after being replanted; why?

Your plant needs to be repotted. It might have outgrown the pot. Perhaps the soil has to be changed. Or perhaps there are insect or disease issues.

But after repotting, you see that your plant is dying, and you’re left wondering what to do.

Because the roots were damaged during the repotting, your plant is now dying. Other causes of this include pests, illnesses, excessive or insufficient sunshine, a lack of nutrients, and bad potting soil.

Monstera plants weep, but why?

Guttation, often known as “sweating,” “weeping,” or “crying,” is a completely natural occurrence when liquid droplets develop on the tips or surface of healthy leaves. Although the droplets appear to be made of water, they are actually made of xylem sap, a mixture of extra water and minerals.

Although xylem sap is non-toxic and won’t damage your furniture or flooring, it can become very filthy if larger plants start gutting and dripping.

There are many causes of guttation. The majority of the time, it indicates that your plant has a little bit more water than it requires and manages to get rid of the extra. During the night, when plants often stop transpiring, root pressure will force moisture, chemicals, sugars, and other substances upward through a network of tiny channels known as the phloem. These tubes are attached to tiny cells that are located on the leaf’s surface. On the tips of your plant’s leaves, they expel the extra water and minerals, creating what resembles dewdrops or perspiration.

It’s also critical to understand that guttation and transpiration are two different processes. Transpiration is the process through which moisture or water leaves the plant as a vapor while it is hot outside. On the other hand, guttation is xylem sap that the plant itself secretes.

Some claim that stress or less-than-ideal growth conditions can also lead to guttation. There are numerous ways to stress out your Monstera, even if you are doing everything you can to ensure a happy plant. This includes a change in temperature, the size of the soil or pot, or even just the drive home from the plant nursery.

Some plants are more adept at adjusting to a new environment than others, and your Monstera may try to control its developing environment by gutting or leaking leaves.