Should I Separate My Monstera

The optimum time to divide or propagate your monstera is in the early spring because that is when it grows. They’ll have a better chance of overcoming root stress and resuming growth.

Water before you split

Before splitting the root ball, it should be well-hydrated. Give the roots a good soak a week before you carry out the deed so that water begins to flow out of the bottom of the pot. (Your pot has effective drainage, correct?)

Make the split

Carefully tip the pot on its side and slip the plant out when you’re ready to split your monstera. To avoid breaking anything, you might need assistance holding the plant or pot.

Use a garden shovel to gently encourage the plant out if it won’t come up on its own. Do not pull the plant out of the pot under any circumstances! There is no way you want to break any stems or leaves since they won’t grow back.

Once the monstera has been removed from the pot, divide the root ball into two or more plants using a sharp, clean knife. To ensure that each new plant has lots of roots and stems, look for natural sections and divisions in the existing plant.

This is something you kind of have to eyeball and look for any locations where the plant has already divided up. This will guarantee that the plant will rapidly begin growing after the split has healed.

Plant the new monsteras

It’s time to move the individual plants into their new pots after you’ve divided your monstera into two or more plants.

Perhaps you need containers that are smaller than the one the large plant was in. Select containers with sufficient drainage that are 2-4 inches wider than the new plants’ roots. Plant in a soil with peat, such as our specialty monstera soil, that drains well.

When the plants are in their new pots, give them some water, and position them somewhere with bright, indirect light.

To promote recuperation and new development, you can begin fertilizing the plants around a month after you separate them!

Can I grow two monsteras in one pot?

Professional growers frequently start out by propagating many plants in the same pot. A fuller plant does result from it.

It is far more challenging to combine mature sperate plants with their individual rootballs. When dirt is put around the various rootballs, they can only fit into a very large pot, which dramatically increases the likelihood of accidental overwatering. You run the risk of damaging a significant number of the root hairs if you remove a lot of soil from each individual rootball.

You can do it, but you should be aware of the hazards. Additionally, think about leaving them in their individual pots and combining those pots in a sizable container or planter without harming the roots.

Is Monstera’s root restriction acceptable?

Your Monstera plants should not be left root-bound for an extended period of time. The plant might survive at first, but over time it will start to lose its health and become quite stressed.

A healthy Monstera can eventually grow to three to five feet inside due to their ease of maintenance compared to some other plants and their rapid growth under ideal conditions. It’s crucial to keep in mind that as a plant grows taller, its roots are simultaneously attempting to expand outward to balance off the weight of all the leaves it must support.

The remedy in this case is to repot your Monstera, as I’ll explain below. Early spring, as you start to move into the warmer months of the year, is the optimum time to replant your Monstera.

However, it can be difficult to repot the plants simply until they reach about the three-foot threshold. To prepare for this, a considerably larger pot should be provided when repotting a Monstera. This will allow for the plant’s future growth and prevent you from having to perform at least one laborious repotting.

Option 1: Wait

Depending on how young and little your monstera plant is, you might just need to give it some time.

Young monsteras almost resemble a distinct plant because of their sturdy, heart-shaped leaves. Your monstera should grow and finally form those lovely holes and splits on its own when it is between two and three years old with adequate light, the proper quantity of water, and a little fertilizer. Be tolerant!

Option 2: More light!

This is typically the most crucial thing you can do to encourage your monstera leaves to split. However, without plenty of bright, indirect sunlight, monsteras won’t grow much or produce many splits (or numerous rows of splits), even though they can survive in reduced light. Your monstera leaves might not split even if you follow all other instructions to the letter without the proper light.

If you buy a mature monstera with split leaves, lower light may work, especially if you don’t want it to grow much bigger and take over your house (since monsteras often do!).

However, you’ll need good lighting if you have a young plant that you want to observe develop and flourish. The best windows are those that face east or south, while north can still be used. Just be extremely careful around windows that face west since they often receive a lot of direct, scorching afternoon light that might burn the leaves.

Don’t worry if your home lacks excellent illumination. A grow light can always be used as a supplement. To replace greenhouse-style lights that you may get from nurseries, you can either purchase ready-made grow lights or install grow bulbs in standard light fixtures.

Why is my monstera growing in an odd direction?

With this monstrous plant, it makes me feel as though I’m back in the rainforest! Simply adore it!

The famous Swiss Cheese plant, monstera deliciosa, is undoubtedly impressive. It will repay you with this incredible jungly home atmosphere if you provide it with the necessary circumstances and space to flourish. And after a long day, who wouldn’t want to retreat to the jungle? I do, without a doubt! Take a mojito, relax under your monstera, turn on some jungle music, and there you have it!

The gorgeous cut leaf forms are so captivating they make you feel as though you are in the tropics. These gorgeous plants, which are native to the jungles of Central America, add a wow element to your house. These plants have a maximum height of 60 feet in the wild. I am aware of its size. After noticing my monstera’s growth spike this year and having just replanted it, I can already tell that if she continues to grow at this rate, I’ll need a larger apartment.

I have had numerous inquiries regarding these stunning plants, so I decided to compile some informative Monstera FAQs, suggestions, and tips to share with you. You might be shocked to learn that these plants are actually considered “easy maintenance” and that caring for them can be highly satisfying:

When do I need to repot my Swiss Cheese plant?

The growth spurt has occurred and is now in full force! In just six months, a monstera plant can almost completely fill a planter with its thick tuberous root system. Ideally, you should repot your monstera once a year in the spring or summer. It’s time to repot your monstera if you pull up the pot and notice that the roots are sticking out the bottom through the drainage holes. Use a well-draining houseplant soil mix for repotting these plants, and be careful not to increase the pot size too much. To improve aeration and drainage, I added pearlite to mine.

What are the crazy roots coming from the stem of my Monstera Deliciosa plant?

These are the aerial roots of the monstera deliciosa. This plant makes a great climber in its natural environment. In its jungle habitat, these aerial roots shoot out in search of objects to cling to and climb on. For this reason, while your monstera is maturing, I usually advise adding a moss stick. This will provide it with support and a point of stability. In the absence of this, there is a possibility that your plant will begin to grow horizontally along the floor while its aerial roots look for something to climb.

Can I propagate my Swiss Cheese plant?

You very certainly can. Create some tiny plants to gift to friends and relatives if you notice that it keeps expanding and blocking your room.

Choose a monstera vine that is at least 12 inches long, mature, and has two or more nodes. To reduce the chance of bacteria and illness, make a clean cut, making sure it’s below a node. Put the leaves above the waterline and submerge the stem and one of the nodes in lukewarm water. Root growth will result from this. Keep in mind to change the water every week. When the roots are at least 4 inches long, the same houseplant compost mix as the mother plant should be used. A cane can be inserted for additional support. Then take a seat, unwind, and watch your baby monstera develop. Good fortune!

Signs to watch out for:

  • Do you notice a lot of unusually long aerial roots and slower-than-normal leaf growth? This could indicate that your plant needs to be repotted because its roots are confined.
  • The plant’s lower leaves are turning yellow. The stem may be becoming dark or black at the base and is wilting. This could indicate that the light is too dim and the soil is becoming permanently saturated. This may result in plant death and root rot. Examine the roots of the plant by removing it from the pot. Everything is fine if they are white-tinged and appear strong and robust. You must take action quickly if they are mushy and brown. Remove all of the afflicted roots while being careful not to damage the healthy ones with a clean pair of scissors. Repot in a fresh container with dry soil. Change to a brighter spot and modify your watering schedule as necessary.
  • brown edges and a sharp curl to the leaves. This is a clear indication of dehydration and excessive sun exposure. In particular during the midday, monstera plants like bright indirect light away from direct sunshine.
  • When you notice a little buildup, frequently dust the enormous, lovely monstera leaves. This dust may obstruct a plant’s pores, preventing it from soaking up the sun’s beneficial rays for healthy growth. All you need is a clean, moist towel to give it a quick once-over every week or two if you notice dust building up.
  • Is the area where you have your Monstera Deliciosa darker than you would like? If you have no other place to put it and you find the soil is taking a while to dry out, you might try poking the dirt with a pair of chopsticks (just the top half). This replicates how worms and other invertebrates would normally carry out this function in the nature by introducing some oxygen. In the event that you see the soil isn’t drying out too rapidly, you can do this around once a month.
  • On the top soil of my Monstera Deliciosa plant, I discovered mold. Try moving it to a brighter place and reducing the watering frequency, ensuring sure the top few inches of soil are drying out between waterings. This is usually a sign of too much water and not enough light.

I sincerely hope that this information is useful, but please feel free to contact me with any additional inquiries. Enjoy taking care of this wonderful plant.

Look at the Monstera Monkey Leaf plant and Monstera Minima if you want something a little bit smaller but with the same beauty as a Monstera Deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant) (both seen below). They are related to the Swiss Cheese Plant and have leaves that are famous for having been slashed, although they are considerably more fragile than their larger cousin.

How can you tell whether your Monstera is content?

How can you prevent your Monstera from drowning? We’ve discussed a little bit about how to avoid overwatering it. Once you get to know your Monstera and understand all of its behaviors, you’ll notice lots of indicators that it needs water. Some of them may not come as a surprise because the indications that a Monstera needs watering are also quite similar to those that other plants exhibit.

Your Monstera’s Soil Is Dry

The primary indication that a Monstera needs watering is dry soil. A Monstera deliciosa shouldn’t thrive in arid conditions, despite the fact that it’s vital to allow the soil dry up a little bit between waterings. Although too-dry soil won’t immediately kill a plant, it will hinder its capacity to grow effectively.

Since every plant and indoor environment is unique and can necessitate a different amount of time between waterings, routinely testing the soil will enable you to determine when your Monstera needs to be watered. Using your finger is the simplest method for doing this!

If the soil is dry after sticking your finger in it for about an inch, water the plant. Don’t water your Monstera just yet if it’s moist or still wet.

Your Monstera is Leaning Over

Although it is an unusual indicator, I have observed a leaning Monstera in my collection. An underwatered Monstera will begin to sag in a manner that causes the leaves to droop, which is similar to wilting. On a little Monstera, this is much simpler to see, although it can be seen on bigger plants as well.

Always examine the soil before watering because leaning plants might occasionally be an indication of a different problem, such as overwatering. Never add more water when the earth is damp; dry soil indicates that it is time to water.

Your Monstera should bounce back within a few days after receiving a thorough watering if the cause of drooping is too little water. As much stress as possible should be avoided allowing the Monstera to become this dry as it will stunt the plant’s growth.

Your Monstera’s Leaves are Curling

Leaf curling is just another sign that a Monstera needs watering. The leaves of a Monstera that needs water will start to curl inward, making them appear smaller and less wide.

This is a temporary problem that almost always goes away with some time and some good watering! If the soil is dry, check it and give it a nice, thorough watering. Within a few days, the leaves ought to resume their regular state.

If they don’t, there might be another problem going on. Before watering once more, take some time to run a diagnostic.

Your Monstera’s Leaves are Brown, Yellow, or Dead

An alarming sign may be the yellowing of your Monstera’s leaves. Dark green, waxy leaves are present on a healthy, happy Monstera (though younger plants or new leaves may be lighter green).

Some discoloration is expected because older Monstera leaves gradually turn yellow and drop off as they become older. However, you have an issue if you notice many sections of the plant with yellow, brown, or dead leaves or new leaves.

In addition to underwatering, additional issues that might cause leaf discoloration include overwatering, excessive or insufficient sunshine, or parasites. Don’t water the plant right away; instead, take the time to inspect it for any signs of these issues.

Although older growth will occasionally die off, you should take immediate action if any leaf loss is accompanied by other symptoms like drooping or discolouration. The soil’s moisture content should always be checked as the initial step. Water the soil deeply if it is dry. Look for indications that your plant may have been overwatered if the soil is wet.

Your Monstera Isn’t Putting Out Fenestrated Leaves

With adult Monsteras that haven’t started fenestrating or that produce leaves with holes in them, a lack of fenestration can become a problem. Fenestrations are nearly always a sign that the plant is not receiving enough light.

This can occasionally be brought on by inadequate sunlight. Examine the surroundings of the plant to rule that out. Monsteras require six to twelve hours a day of bright indirect sunlight. Try transplanting the plant to a brighter location if it isn’t receiving this much light.

Set a smart alarm to remind you to inspect the soil if lighting isn’t the issue and you think your Monstera needs extra water. This will assist you in forming the practice of routine plant maintenance. You can establish the ideal watering balance by making sure the soil is moist enough many times per week. Be careful not to overwater, though!