Those of you who have a Monstera deliciosa at home may have picked up on a few things since bringing it in. One, aren’t those leaves gorgeous? Two, it’s actually expanding quite swiftly. Third, M. deliciosa doesn’t comprehend the need of having sound personal limits. Give this adorable giant of a houseplant a moss totem to grasp onto if you find yourself outgrowing your home. Here, we’ll walk you through the installation process and show you how to control some of your monster’s adorable excitement.
M. deliciosa uses its powerful aerial roots to cling to and take moisture from the rough bark of large rainforest trees in its natural habitat. It is a natural wanderer. A moss totem is an upright pole that is completely covered in sphagnum moss and is staked into the plant’s pot. Its natural surface provides something for a monstera’s roots to grip onto and take moisture from, acting as a stand-in for a tree. A moss totem allows M. deliciosa to act more like it would in the wild while yet supporting those heavy stems and leaves better than a traditional plant stake or wire trellis.
With just a few basic tools, you can train a monstera to a moss pole:
- Your terra cotta monstera
- a ready-made moss totem
- Soft plant ties, yarn, or cotton string are good options for gentle ties.
- A new container that is 1-2 wider than the old one, together with high-quality potting soil for houseplants, if repotting is required.
We like Mosser Lee’s Totem PoleTM Extendable Plant Supports for moss totems. These realistic-looking, tube-shaped supports come in three lengths plus an additional 12 extensions for when your monstera inevitably becomes even bigger. They are packed with moisture-absorbing, long-fiber sphagnum moss.
Getting Started
Start by putting the moss totem in a shallow water container and letting it soak until it is completely soaked.
Before adding the totem, it’s a good idea to check your plant to see whether it has to be repotted while the moss is soaking. You can install the moss totem without repotting your M. deliciosa if the pot is large enough and the roots aren’t too crowded. However, if your plant needs a new pot anyhow, now is a fantastic time to start working on its new totem.
If your monstera has to be repotted, start by removing it from its current container and looking at the roots. If the roots are tightly packed, you may need to loosen them up a bit. As you normally would, repotter the plant into a new pot with fresh soil; however, instead of placing it exactly in the center, move it slightly toward the front of the pot. With the majority of the foliage facing outward, the moss totem can fit behind the plant in this manner.
Installing the Totem
When the plant and container are prepared, deeply embed the strong metal supports at the bottom of the moistened moss pole. Keep the pole upright and tuck it behind the plant just a bit. The totem can then be stabilized by lightly pressing the earth at the base.
Attaching the Plant to the Pole
It’s time to acquaint your plant with its new totem now. Some of your monstera’s stems may be longer and more strong than others, as you may have noticed. Several huge leaves are supported by these thicker stalks, and they may also be beginning to sprout some knobby aerial roots. The stems could potentially start to spread out from the pot like a vine as they develop horizontally. The more slender leaf stalks and their leaves will be allowed to fill in around the bottom once you attach these stems to the totem.
Bring the stem up against the moistened moss and fasten it gently yet securely with a piece of soft plant tie, twine, or cotton string to help it adhere to the totem. If the stem is long, bind it to the totem by tying it to it several times. Repeat this process with any other substantial stems, then take a step back to ensure the plant’s general form is to your liking. Your M. deliciosa will eventually use its aerial roots to cling to the moss and proceed to climb higher on its new support.
Care Tips
With one extra step, caring for a monster on a totem is just like caring for one without. Misting the moss on occasion is a smart idea to keep your monstera interested in its new support. The roots will continue to spread into the moss if the plant detects moisture there.
For routine maintenance, make sure the container drains effectively, let the top inch or two of soil a little amount of soil dry out between waterings, and set your plant where it receives lots of bright, indirect light. Additionally, take sure to turn your wandering plant every so often to keep things balanced if it tends to lean one way or the other while looking for the best source of light.
Some Plants Just Need a Little Guidance
Not just monsteras are helped by a little patient correction in the home. A moss totem is also helpful with other monster species, such as M. adansonii, as well as some philodendrons, like “Prince of Orange” and “Pink Princess.” Ask if you need help caring for any of your “wandering plant pals.” We are always happy to assist.
Does Monstera vegetation enjoy moss poles?
Although Monsteras can flourish without a moss pole, including one more closely resembles their natural habitat. As epiphytes, monsteras rely on the support of tree trunks to flourish. They cling by inserting their aerial roots into the structure’s framework. You may create a more natural growing environment for your Monstera indoors with the aid of a moss pole. By clicking the image or link, you can check the price on Amazon.
Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)
Knowing a plant’s origins is crucial for assessing its compatibility for your space and planning the care it will require. Native to desert areas, these plants need a lot of sunlight and loose, quickly draining soil. Strong sunlight and copious humidity will require some shelter for plants from the jungle bottom.
Monstera is a climbing plant endemic to Mexico and Central America’s rainforests that uses aerial roots to clamber up and through the branches of trees. On mature leaves, the peculiar perforations that give it the nickname “Swiss cheese plant” appear. The exact cause of this adaptation is unknown, but it is made possible through a genetically encoded process that is rare in the world of plants and in which cells plan their own demise through programmed cell death.
Growing plants within the house require the support of a moss-covered, climbable pole. If properly cared for, monstera can live for many years and reach heights of well over ten feet.
Incorrect names for Monstera deliciosa include split-leaf philodendron and Philodenron pertusum. These names, which are synonyms for monstera or Monstera deliciosa*, are no longer regarded as acceptable plant names.
Light:
Monsteras should be kept out of direct sunlight and planted in areas with bright, filtered light or light shade from March to September, when they are actively growing. Your plant will be protected from a tropical tree canopy in its natural rainforest by the leaves of the trees outside the window or a sheer curtain. Alternately, a spot in a well-lit area away from a window can do.
The plant need more direct, strong light during the winter. To maintain the health and appealing characteristics of monsteras, which have huge, glossy leaves with well-developed divisions, it is crucial to provide that additional light exposure.
Water and Humidity:
Check back after 15 minutes to remove any water still in the plant’s run-off dish after giving the soil a good thorough watering to make it moist but not soggy. Allow the soil to almost completely dry out between waterings when the plant is actively growing. For ideal humidity, mist the plant and its moss pole every day or give a damp pebble tray. Every week, wash the leaves with warm water.
Temperature:
Normal house temperatures range between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and are fine during the growth season. The relaxation that happens at these colder winter temperatures is beneficial to monsteras. Once the temperature reaches 65 degrees, your plant will start growing again, but this time with more humidity and water.
Ensure that this plant is shielded from sudden changes in temperature caused by open windows, air conditioners, and heating vents.
Re-potting:
Monsteras prefer to be root-bound and can remain in the same pot for years until switching to a pot one size larger when the roots start to protrude past the drain hole. Soil that drains quickly is crucial. The ideal ratio is usually equal parts potting soil, peat, and sand. Replace the top layer of soil every other year after the pot’s maximum capacity is achieved.
What to Watch for:
The aerial roots are crucial for nutrition and climbing. The most beautiful plants have strong aerial roots, so let them alone. Encourage some of these roots to grow into the moss-covered support for your plant as it develops into a vine, leaving the remaining ones exposed so they may take in moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. (You can create your own supporting pole for a monstera by inserting the end of a tube of wrapped plastic netting deep into the soil of the pot.)
It is normal and gradual for the oldest leaves to fall off. If you overwater or underfeed your plants, the leaves may become yellow and drop in greater quantities.
Stretching of the leaf stems and the emergence of stunted leaves without holes may be signs of insufficient light, especially in the winter. Your plant requires energy to grow strong, robust leaves, but it might not be getting enough light or taking a crucial winter break.
When should I plant Monstera with a moss pole?
This is more of a moment for you to evaluate the situation and make decisions about how to direct your Monstera’s growth going ahead than it is a sign from the plant. If you are repotting your Monstera, this is the ideal moment to incorporate a moss pole.
Typically, Monsteras need to be replanted every one to two years into a container that is one size bigger than the one they were in before. But now is the moment to transfer it to a larger pot if you see that you need to water it regularly or that the roots are sprouting out of the drainage holes.
Even if you aren’t presently exhibiting the aforementioned symptoms, I would advise you to add a moss pole when you are repotting your Monstera. Because you can see the roots and avoid severing them when securing the pole in the soil, adding a moss pole to a fresh pot is considerably simpler.
Which pole suits Monstera the best?
Best Moss Pole for Monstera, in brief
- For MonsteraTOP PICK, DUSPRO 2 Pack 25 Inch Real Moss Pole.
- 26.4-inch BESMYJ Moss Pole for Plants.
- 26.4-inch coir totem plant support with monkey moss.
- SUNSET LEAVES Moss Pole, 27.5 inches, Paper Pipe.
- 12 inch Grow Organiks Coco Coir Pole
How am I going to teach my monstera to climb?
One of the benefits of growing Monstera deliciosa inside for fans is its capacity to develop into a substantial cornerstone for a jungle-themed home. However, that expansion also creates some issues because a Monstera can quickly outgrow its allotted space. Large Monsteras typically grow outward, unlike other common houseplants with an upward, tree-like growth pattern (such the fiddle-leaf fig or rubber plant). Because of this, many people prefer their Monstera deliciosa to climb rather than trail.
How can I encourage Monstera deliciosa to climb? You can encourage your Monstera deliciosa to grow upright by providing a support system, such as a moss pole, coco coir pole, or trellis. This teaches the plant to follow its innate tendency to climb, which may result in a healthier plant with more leaves.
The good news is that Monsteras are designed for ascent. You can get this plant off the ground and out of the way if the correct circumstances and some encouragement are there. I’ll go through some specifics regarding how and why Monsteras are frequently observed climbing on moss poles throughout this article and provide you with advice on teaching this plant to climb.
Should I soak the moss pole?
Try to attach it as soon as possible while the plant is still young. However, you may still do it with an established plant.
Before putting the moss pole into the pot, you should first soak it in water until it is completely saturated. This, in my opinion, makes it much easier to tie a plant to a moss pole.
1. To ensure that your pole balances when your plant matures, it is advisable to place it in the center of your pot. Make sure the pole is buried in the ground at a depth sufficient for stability, but not so deep as to damage the roots.
2. Next, you begin surrounding the pole with the longest vine.
3. To assist fasten the vines to the pole, use velcro plant strings or plant tie strips. To make sure my aerial roots don’t protrude, I like to tuck them within the pole.
The fact that these plant ties are available in green or black is their finest feature. The ties will better mix in with your plant’s vines and pole as a result. So no one will be aware of your technique for producing strong, large leaves.
Plant TIP: Make sure the root nodes, which are where the stem and leaves converge, are fastened to or tucked within the pole. In order to eliminate the need for ties, this helps train the adventitious roots to cling to the pole on their own. Once your plant grows, you can eventually take the ties off.
Choose a pole length that is longer than your longest vine when deciding on its length. You won’t ever have to worry about your plant outgrowing the pole, so you may keep it for a longer time and let it grow whatever long it wants.
If you need to, you could add another moss pole on top to make the moss pole longer.