One of the benefits of growing Monstera deliciosa inside for fans is its capacity to develop into a substantial cornerstone for a jungle-themed home. However, that expansion also creates some issues because a Monstera can quickly outgrow its allotted space. Large Monsteras typically grow outward, unlike other common houseplants with an upward, tree-like growth pattern (such the fiddle-leaf fig or rubber plant). Because of this, many people prefer their Monstera deliciosa to climb rather than trail.
How can I encourage Monstera deliciosa to climb? You can encourage your Monstera deliciosa to grow upright by providing a support system, such as a moss pole, coco coir pole, or trellis. This teaches the plant to follow its innate tendency to climb, which may result in a healthier plant with more leaves.
The good news is that Monsteras are designed for ascent. You can get this plant off the ground and out of the way if the correct circumstances and some encouragement are there. I’ll go through some specifics regarding how and why Monsteras are frequently observed climbing on moss poles throughout this article and provide you with advice on teaching this plant to climb.
How can you get Monstera to climb?
Right now, Monstera Deliciosa is a stylish and well-liked houseplant, and it’s simple to understand why. The room’s broad, glossy, dark-green leaves have a tropical feel to it, and under the correct circumstances, they develop swiftly. In fact, this plant’s potential for growing too large for some homes is one of its only drawbacks. When a Monstera grows large, it often tips over or leans to one side.
How can a Monstera Deliciosa be kept from leaning over? Staking a Monstera Deliciosa with a support like a moss pole, trellis, or garden stakes is the best way to keep it growing upright. These natural climbers can be trained to climb these poles by being connected to them, and they will be supported as they do so.
Although a Monstera won’t be harmed by not growing upright, most people like them to be as straight and tall as possible for aesthetic and spatial reasons. To help you keep your Monstera looking the way you want it to, I’ll go into further depth below why why this occurs in the first place.
How can a Monstera be taught to scale a wall?
Your Monstera should be allowed to climb since it is not only natural for them but also looks fantastic! The majority of Monstera enthusiasts prefer to offer some sort of support for the plants, like a totem pole or pole covered in moss.
Monstera plants develop tendrils covered in aerial roots to aid in climbing. Monsteras’ aerial roots provide a variety of functions in addition to absorbing moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere. In the rainforest, they also cling to the rough surfaces of big trees to aid the Monstera vine’s ascent to the canopy—exactly what a moss pole may accomplish for your indoor plant.
Not all Monstera climb, though. In hanging pots or baskets, some kinds, such as Monstera adansonii, produce a stunning display. Additionally, they can be stacked on top of bookcases, filing cabinets, or even the refrigerator’s top and left to hang over the sides.
It is ultimately a matter of personal opinion whether you let your Monstera climb or decide to let the cascading vines fall freely.
To add some variation, teach some of your Monstera plants to climb while allowing others to trail from pots or baskets to display their eye-catching foliage. Or, to create a Monstera climbing wall, group many Monstera plants together and build a trellis (or latticework) against the wall.
Does Monstera require climbing?
What should you do if your Monstera becomes so tall that it begins to topple over? It need a ladder to ascend!
In its native rainforest habitat, monsteras are climbing plants and can be found climbing trees. By use a moss pole or other vertical support, we reproduce this for potted Monsteras. This prevents the large plant from taking over your living room and enables your Monstera to grow upwards toward the light without toppling over and breaking its stem.
Monstera plants can they climb?
The split leaf philodendron is also known as the Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa). It is a beautiful climbing plant with big leaves that employs aerial roots as vertical supports. But unlike ivy, it doesn’t have suckers or clinging roots to help it pull itself up. It has a wide variety of different fauna to develop and support it in its natural habitat. However, as a houseplant, it requires a pole to assist train it upward. The use of a moss pole plant support improves the appearance of the tropical setting and hides the woody stake. Following is some information on creating and utilizing a support for cheese plants.
What causes my Monstera to sag?
Due mostly to its spectacular leaves, the Monstera deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant) is a common houseplant. Although they are simple to care for, these fellas do have one drawback: if they feel neglected, they have a tendency to pout, which may cause your Monstera leaves to droop. Don’t panic too much. They can quickly be persuaded to recover with a little loving attention.
The most frequent cause of drooping monstera leaves is dehydration. They prefer their soil to always be just moist enough. Other contributing factors include overwatering, poor lighting, issues with fertilizer, pests, or transplant stress. The most crucial step in restoring your plant to health is figuring out what the issue is.
How can a Monstera be taught to scale a moss pole?
Sphagnum moss can be used to create a moss pole by being wrapped around a bamboo stick or PVC pipe. To hold the material in place, twirl a string around. The thickest stem of your Monstera Deliciosa should be tied to the pole many places along the stem using a soft plant tie. To encourage vertical development, prune the stems that are developing more horizontally. The plant will eventually grow vertically as its aerial roots cling to the moss pole over time.
Light
Mini monsteras enjoy bright, indirect sunshine just like the majority of tropical plants, including monsteras. This indicates not directly in the sun’s beams, but next to or in a very bright window. Typically, an east-facing window is the ideal.
Water
When the top two inches of soil are dry, add water to the soil until it begins to drip out the bottom of the pot since mini monsteras prefer a modest amount of water. then right away empty the drainage pan.
It’s crucial to avoid overwatering because it can promote root rot. Repotting and our Root Rot Treatment can cure this disease, but if you don’t catch it in time, it can kill a plant.
Never let the soil get completely dry, on the opposite end of the watering range, or you’ll have a dried-out, perhaps dead micro monstera on your hands!
Soil and Potting
To prevent your mini monstera’s roots from sitting in water (hello, root rot! ), choose a soil and container that drain properly.
Consider adding some orchid bark to your indoor potting mix and using a plastic or ceramic container with one or more drainage holes.
Fertilizer
In the spring and summer, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma grows quickly, so it’s crucial to fertilize it many times per month with liquid fertilizer mixed in with its water.
Because I can use Indoor Plant Food for ALL of my indoor plants, even micro monsteras, I use it every week in my watering can. It removes all of the uncertainty about fertilizing schedules because it is intended to be applied with each watering. There’s no easier way to put it than that!
Climbing
To give the aerial roots of mini monsteras something to hold onto when climbing, place a moss pole or trellis in or close to the container. A small or tall moss pole can be bought, or you can even create your own.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants perform well in conditions resembling those of their native environments in Thailand and Malaysia, however they are a little more adaptable to temperature and humidity than monstera deliciosa.
The ideal temperatures for mini monsteras are between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (aka average room temperatures). They are able to handle typical indoor humidity levels, but they value the added moisture from a humidifier or pebble tray.
(To set up a pebble tray, just add water and pebbles to a shallow tray, then place your potted plant on top so that the roots and soil are not in contact with the water.)
A Fun New Plant for Monstera Lovers
Try the small monstera if you enjoy other monstera variations! It’s the ideal addition to your collection and is becoming accessible (and inexpensive). They are available online and in certain local nurseries.
Does your Monstera need to be rotated?
Monsteras are easy to care for and have moderate needs for water, sunshine, and temperature. For information on how to maintain the health of your plant, see their care instructions below.
Light: A monstera’s leaves must receive the proper quantity of sunshine to grow. Put it in a location where it will get filtered, indirect light. A monstera plant can develop yellow or burned leaves from too much direct sunshine. Keep an eye on your plant since you might need to rotate it if you notice that its leaves are reaching for the sun.
Water: When the top few inches of soil are dry, you should water your plant. To determine how dry the earth is, stick your finger into it. Since excessive moisture might cause root rot, monsteras like peaty, well-draining soil. Over time, these plants can also develop aerial roots. These roots can either be placed in the soil or covered with wet sphagnum moss to ensure they receive plenty of water.
Temperature: The monstera plant prefers 68–86°F temperatures in a typical room. This plant will thrive in a similar tropical, humid environment because it is native to tropical rain forests. If you reside in a dry climate, misting your monstera deliciosa once a week will improve the humidity around the plant.
Toxicity: The larger species is not recommended for pet owners due to the poisonous nature of all portions of this plant, with the exception of the ripe fruit. Choose a miniature species, such as the M. deliciosa borsigiana, that you can store high on shelves to keep curious animals away from nibbling. Because of the calcium oxalates in its sap, the plant can cause skin irritation when touched and stomach problems if consumed. As long as you avoid ingesting any plant parts and handle it with extra caution, it is still safe to have in your house. To learn more about what on do if a piece of a monstera is consumed, look at our guide to dangerous plants.
Pests: Mealybugs, scales, aphids, and spider mites are frequently found under the leaves of monstera plants. To maintain them clean and free of dust, wipe their leaves down roughly once each week. Their glossy, dark green leaves remain healthy thanks to this regular upkeep. If you do discover little creatures in your plant, you can get rid of the pests by wiping them off with a mild dishwashing solution or a moderate insecticide.
Problems: As we previously indicated, if your plant doesn’t get enough sunlight, the leaves may not grow properly. Move your monstera to an area with more lighting if you see that the leaves aren’t splitting properly.
If Monstera deliciosa plants are malnourished or overwatered, their leaves may become yellow. If this occurs, wait until you can feel the earth drying before watering your plant again. Replace the soil in your monstera’s pot if the issue continues. If none of those remedies work, you can feed your plant some homemade fertilizer or plant food to restore the health of its leaves. Checking to see if the leaves are “sweating” is one technique to distinguish between the two; this is another indicator of overwatering.
Low humidity and dry air can cause brown leaf tips or edges. To fix this, spritz your plant once each week or have a humidifier close by.
Repotting: Large plants, like monsteras, require repotting every two years to support their expanding root systems. To give your monstera more area to grow, use a pot that is a few inches taller and wider than the one you previously used. To maintain a moderate size, you can regularly trim back its leaves, repot it less frequently, or leave it in the same pot. For more detailed repotting advice, see our guide on repotting a plant.
Air layering is a typical technique of monsteras’ propagation. Continue reading to learn how to achieve this.
Put a layer of moist flowery or sphagnum moss over the notch, root, and node where the leaf meets the stem in this location.
Wrap the moss in plastic loosely enough to allow you to monitor the roots while also keeping it secure. With string or other connections, you can fasten the plastic and moss together.
With simple care instructions, monstera deliciosa plants are a gem to have in your home. Maintaining your monstera will make the plant happy and earn you tons of compliments.
Light:
Monsteras should be kept out of direct sunlight and planted in areas with bright, filtered light or light shade from March to September, when they are actively growing. Your plant will be protected from a tropical tree canopy in its natural rainforest by the leaves of the trees outside the window or a sheer curtain. Alternately, a spot in a well-lit area away from a window can do.
The plant need more direct, strong light during the winter. To maintain the health and appealing characteristics of monsteras, which have huge, glossy leaves with well-developed divisions, it is crucial to provide that additional light exposure.
Water and Humidity:
Check back after 15 minutes to remove any water still in the plant’s run-off dish after giving the soil a good thorough watering to make it moist but not soggy. Allow the soil to almost completely dry out between waterings when the plant is actively growing. For ideal humidity, mist the plant and its moss pole every day or give a damp pebble tray. Every week, wash the leaves with warm water.
Temperature:
Normal house temperatures range between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and are fine during the growth season. The relaxation that happens at these colder winter temperatures is beneficial to monsteras. Once the temperature reaches 65 degrees, your plant will start growing again, but this time with more humidity and water.
Ensure that this plant is shielded from sudden changes in temperature caused by open windows, air conditioners, and heating vents.
Re-potting:
Monsteras prefer to be root-bound and can remain in the same pot for years until switching to a pot one size larger when the roots start to protrude past the drain hole. Soil that drains quickly is crucial. The ideal ratio is usually equal parts potting soil, peat, and sand. Replace the top layer of soil every other year after the pot’s maximum capacity is achieved.
What to Watch for:
The aerial roots are crucial for nutrition and climbing. The most beautiful plants have strong aerial roots, so let them alone. Encourage some of these roots to grow into the moss-covered support for your plant as it develops into a vine, leaving the remaining ones exposed so they may take in moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. (You can create your own supporting pole for a monstera by inserting the end of a tube of wrapped plastic netting deep into the soil of the pot.)
It is normal and gradual for the oldest leaves to fall off. If you overwater or underfeed your plants, the leaves may become yellow and drop in greater quantities.
Stretching of the leaf stems and the emergence of stunted leaves without holes may be signs of insufficient light, especially in the winter. Your plant requires energy to grow strong, robust leaves, but it might not be getting enough light or taking a crucial winter break.