One of the benefits of growing Monstera deliciosa inside for fans is its capacity to develop into a substantial cornerstone for a jungle-themed home. However, that expansion also creates some issues because a Monstera can quickly outgrow its allotted space. Large Monsteras typically grow outward, unlike other common houseplants with an upward, tree-like growth pattern (such the fiddle-leaf fig or rubber plant). Because of this, many people prefer their Monstera deliciosa to climb rather than trail.
How can I encourage Monstera deliciosa to climb? You can encourage your Monstera deliciosa to grow upright by providing a support system, such as a moss pole, coco coir pole, or trellis. This teaches the plant to follow its innate tendency to climb, which may result in a healthier plant with more leaves.
The good news is that Monsteras are designed for ascent. You can get this plant off the ground and out of the way if the correct circumstances and some encouragement are there. I’ll go through some specifics regarding how and why Monsteras are frequently observed climbing on moss poles throughout this article and provide you with advice on teaching this plant to climb.
How can a Monstera be taught to scale a wall?
Your Monstera should be allowed to climb since it is not only natural for them but also looks fantastic! The majority of Monstera enthusiasts prefer to offer some sort of support for the plants, like a totem pole or pole covered in moss.
Monstera plants develop tendrils covered in aerial roots to aid in climbing. Monsteras’ aerial roots provide a variety of functions in addition to absorbing moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere. In the rainforest, they also cling to the rough surfaces of big trees to aid the Monstera vine’s ascent to the canopy—exactly what a moss pole may accomplish for your indoor plant.
Not all Monstera climb, though. In hanging pots or baskets, some kinds, such as Monstera adansonii, produce a stunning display. Additionally, they can be stacked on top of bookcases, filing cabinets, or even the refrigerator’s top and left to hang over the sides.
It is ultimately a matter of personal opinion whether you let your Monstera climb or decide to let the cascading vines fall freely.
To add some variation, teach some of your Monstera plants to climb while allowing others to trail from pots or baskets to display their eye-catching foliage. Or, to create a Monstera climbing wall, group many Monstera plants together and build a trellis (or latticework) against the wall.
Should I provide my Monstera with a climbing plant?
I frequently get asked how I take care of my monstera, so I thought I’d provide some information about it here, along with affiliate links to some of the things I use and like. Using these links to make purchases helps support this blog.
Do I need to train my Monstera deliciosa?
Yes! The Monstera deliciosa grows in a manner akin to a pothos vine that just keeps getting longer. Pothos can be allowed to dangle off the side of the pot due of its smaller overall size. A few vines hanging out of the pot would swiftly fill an entire room because the monstera’s natural size is significantly larger! As a result, you should attach the vines to a reliable trellis so they may climb it.
What about using a moss pole?
The purpose of the moss pole is to offer a surface for the aerial roots to adhere to, just like they would in the natural. The only issue with attempting to do this indoors is that you have to constantly keep the moss damp. Since the air doesn’t move as much as it does outside or in a nursery, this is not advised. Mold and undesirable microorganisms thrive in stagnant air and perpetually damp environments.
A monstera’s vine can be rather heavy, even if you are successful in keeping the air clean. A single post trellis won’t be as reliable as one with multiple posts.
The Metal Trellis
Attaching my monstera vines to a strong metal trellis, such as the Panacea Garden Ladder, is how I train my plants. It is far more sturdy thanks to the triangular profile than a flat, fence-like form. Panacea Garden Plant Support Ladder, Red, from Amazon
Soft Rubber Ties
Even if wires or thread will eventually pierce the monstera vine’s strong skin, I find that this will happen. I do this by using these Soft Rubber Ties. They won’t damage the plant, are sturdy, and won’t slip after they’ve been twisted against one another. They are simple to trim to the length you require. Link to Soft Rubber Tie on Amazon (Brown) Link to Soft Rubber Tie on Amazon (Light Green)
The vines usually won’t dangle off the side of the container for a few months when your monstera is young, straight from the nursery. When provided with adequate light and moisture, those vines will appear to crawl outwards; at this point, you should secure them to a trellis.
How can I straighten out my Monstera plant?
Monsteras are climbing plants, therefore unlike most plants, they have not developed to support their own weight with their stems. They develop massive, enormous leaves to absorb as much sunlight as they can in the dense rainforest.
The Monstera needs longer, stronger stems to maintain itself, but this requires energy. As a result, it leverages the strength of other plants to lift itself up by grabbing onto neighboring surfaces with its aerial roots.
These wiggling protrusions from the plant’s stems, which can reach lengths of three feet, are called roots. They will cling themselves to any adjacent surface that is sturdy enough to hold the plant and latch onto it to keep it standing.
Because of its growth strategy, your Monstera requires support. There won’t be any trees nearby to climb, but it needs something to support itself, so consider what kind of support you can offer. Typically, folks will use a moss stick or a stake.
However, there are a variety of support systems you can provide, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Let’s examine a few possibilities.
Option One) A Garden Stake
The easiest and most affordable solution is frequently a plain garden stake. Simply insert a sturdy stake into the ground, then allow your Monstera to use it to climb.
To help the plant to grow straight, place it close to the center of the pot. The plant will begin to grow in that direction if a stake is only placed at one edge because that is where it is getting support. It becomes out of equilibrium as a result, which causes the issues mentioned above.
If your Monstera is already overgrown, adding stakes is a smart option because it makes it simple to gently nudge the stems back toward the middle of the pot, and you can add more than one stake if necessary. They are also portable, so you can move them about to support the plant wherever it needs it and add or remove stakes as necessary.
Stakes are more more versatile than the more intricate support systems, but they aren’t the most attractive choice. You might want to think about other options if they are ruining your Monstera’s appearance.
Option Two) A Trellis
A trellis might be a nice alternative for people who have small plants that are just starting to need support. These are quite secure and will guarantee that your plant maintains its training in one place.
Pick a trellis that can support your Monstera. Keep in mind that these plants can reach heights of up to 10 feet indoors (or even higher), which is a tremendous amount of weight for one trellis to hold.
The plant will be supported by a trellis that has numerous poles because these are typically more stronger. Additionally, they provide the plant with multiple locations to adhere to rather than just one or two, allowing it to spread out and develop thickly.
However, due to the inflexible shape, training your Monstera onto a trellis would be quite challenging if it is already half-grown or fully-grown. A trellis is rigid and cannot be rearranged to accommodate the contour of your plant. Only young Monstera plants can benefit from these.
Option Three) A Moss Stick
Moss sticks may be slightly more expensive than other options because they have been specifically created to support Monstera plants and other climbing plants. They do, however, have a number of important advantages.
Although the material of the poles varies, they are all covered in sphagnum moss to give the Monstera a surface that is comparable to one it would find in the wild.
The Monstera can root in the damp, organic material because most trees have moss and lichen growing on their bark, which may help to keep your plant happy. The moss has a lot of texture, which makes it easier for your plant to grasp and keeps it from falling.
The plant will also receive water and micronutrients from the moss, which it will take through its aerial roots. Your plant’s health is improved as a result.
The aesthetic is the next significant benefit. The sticks seem very much in keeping with the natural sense of the plant because they are covered in moss, and they will fit in well. The moss pole extends the natural beauty, whereas a trellis or pegs can ruin it.
Any moss stick you purchase must be sturdy enough to hold up your Monstera as it grows. For your plant to have several support points, think about adding more than one.
Some claim that utilizing moss sticks encourages better leaf growth and keeps Monstera healthy.
Option Four) A Coco Coir Pole
This is made to assist climbing plants, much like the moss stick. It provides support to keep your Monstera upright while also storing moisture and nutrients that the plant can use as food.
Try a coco coir pole if you don’t like the way a moss stick looks; they both have the same function and will keep your plant happy and healthy. You are free to combine the two if you’d like!
Does Monstera enjoy a challenge?
The split leaf philodendron is also known as the Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa). It is a beautiful climbing plant with big leaves that employs aerial roots as vertical supports. But unlike ivy, it doesn’t have suckers or clinging roots to help it pull itself up. It has a wide variety of different fauna to develop and support it in its natural habitat. However, as a houseplant, it requires a pole to assist train it upward. The use of a moss pole plant support improves the appearance of the tropical setting and hides the woody stake. Following is some information on creating and utilizing a support for cheese plants.
Light
Mini monsteras enjoy bright, indirect sunshine just like the majority of tropical plants, including monsteras. This indicates not directly in the sun’s beams, but next to or in a very bright window. Typically, an east-facing window is the ideal.
Water
When the top two inches of soil are dry, add water to the soil until it begins to drip out the bottom of the pot since mini monsteras prefer a modest amount of water. then right away empty the drainage pan.
It’s crucial to avoid overwatering because it can promote root rot. Repotting and our Root Rot Treatment can cure this disease, but if you don’t catch it in time, it can kill a plant.
Never let the soil get completely dry, on the opposite end of the watering range, or you’ll have a dried-out, perhaps dead micro monstera on your hands!
Soil and Potting
To prevent your mini monstera’s roots from sitting in water (hello, root rot! ), choose a soil and container that drain properly.
Consider adding some orchid bark to your indoor potting mix and using a plastic or ceramic container with one or more drainage holes.
Fertilizer
In the spring and summer, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma grows quickly, so it’s crucial to fertilize it many times per month with liquid fertilizer mixed in with its water.
Because I can use Indoor Plant Food for ALL of my indoor plants, even micro monsteras, I use it every week in my watering can. It removes all of the uncertainty about fertilizing schedules because it is intended to be applied with each watering. There’s no easier way to put it than that!
Climbing
To give the aerial roots of mini monsteras something to hold onto when climbing, place a moss pole or trellis in or close to the container. A small or tall moss pole can be bought, or you can even create your own.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants perform well in conditions resembling those of their native environments in Thailand and Malaysia, however they are a little more adaptable to temperature and humidity than monstera deliciosa.
The ideal temperatures for mini monsteras are between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (aka average room temperatures). They are able to handle typical indoor humidity levels, but they value the added moisture from a humidifier or pebble tray.
(To set up a pebble tray, just add water and pebbles to a shallow tray, then place your potted plant on top so that the roots and soil are not in contact with the water.)
A Fun New Plant for Monstera Lovers
Try the small monstera if you enjoy other monstera variations! It’s the ideal addition to your collection and is becoming accessible (and inexpensive). They are available online and in certain local nurseries.
How can a Monstera be taught to scale a moss pole?
Sphagnum moss can be used to create a moss pole by being wrapped around a bamboo stick or PVC pipe. To hold the material in place, twirl a string around. The thickest stem of your Monstera Deliciosa should be tied to the pole many places along the stem using a soft plant tie. To encourage vertical development, prune the stems that are developing more horizontally. The plant will eventually grow vertically as its aerial roots cling to the moss pole over time.
Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)
Knowing a plant’s origins is crucial for assessing its compatibility for your space and planning the care it will require. Native to desert areas, these plants need a lot of sunlight and loose, quickly draining soil. Strong sunlight and copious humidity will require some shelter for plants from the jungle bottom.
Monstera is a climbing plant endemic to Mexico and Central America’s rainforests that uses aerial roots to clamber up and through the branches of trees. On mature leaves, the peculiar perforations that give it the nickname “Swiss cheese plant” appear. The exact cause of this adaptation is unknown, but it is made possible through a genetically encoded process that is rare in the world of plants and in which cells plan their own demise through programmed cell death.
Growing plants within the house require the support of a moss-covered, climbable pole. If properly cared for, monstera can live for many years and reach heights of well over ten feet.
Incorrect names for Monstera deliciosa include split-leaf philodendron and Philodenron pertusum. These names, which are synonyms for monstera or Monstera deliciosa*, are no longer regarded as acceptable plant names.
Light:
Monsteras should be kept out of direct sunlight and planted in areas with bright, filtered light or light shade from March to September, when they are actively growing. Your plant will be protected from a tropical tree canopy in its natural rainforest by the leaves of the trees outside the window or a sheer curtain. Alternately, a spot in a well-lit area away from a window can do.
The plant need more direct, strong light during the winter. To maintain the health and appealing characteristics of monsteras, which have huge, glossy leaves with well-developed divisions, it is crucial to provide that additional light exposure.
Water and Humidity:
Check back after 15 minutes to remove any water still in the plant’s run-off dish after giving the soil a good thorough watering to make it moist but not soggy. Allow the soil to almost completely dry out between waterings when the plant is actively growing. For ideal humidity, mist the plant and its moss pole every day or give a damp pebble tray. Every week, wash the leaves with warm water.
Temperature:
Normal house temperatures range between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and are fine during the growth season. The relaxation that happens at these colder winter temperatures is beneficial to monsteras. Once the temperature reaches 65 degrees, your plant will start growing again, but this time with more humidity and water.
Ensure that this plant is shielded from sudden changes in temperature caused by open windows, air conditioners, and heating vents.
Re-potting:
Monsteras prefer to be root-bound and can remain in the same pot for years until switching to a pot one size larger when the roots start to protrude past the drain hole. Soil that drains quickly is crucial. The ideal ratio is usually equal parts potting soil, peat, and sand. Replace the top layer of soil every other year after the pot’s maximum capacity is achieved.
What to Watch for:
The aerial roots are crucial for nutrition and climbing. The most beautiful plants have strong aerial roots, so let them alone. Encourage some of these roots to grow into the moss-covered support for your plant as it develops into a vine, leaving the remaining ones exposed so they may take in moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. (You can create your own supporting pole for a monstera by inserting the end of a tube of wrapped plastic netting deep into the soil of the pot.)
It is normal and gradual for the oldest leaves to fall off. If you overwater or underfeed your plants, the leaves may become yellow and drop in greater quantities.
Stretching of the leaf stems and the emergence of stunted leaves without holes may be signs of insufficient light, especially in the winter. Your plant requires energy to grow strong, robust leaves, but it might not be getting enough light or taking a crucial winter break.