- gardening snips (or wire cutters for your ties If you try to cut wire with normal scissors, they will become quite blunt very quickly.)
- green ties
- wooden chopstick or peg (optional)
*Depending on the plant, I have a few options in my plant care kit, including: soft ties, which are thicker with a wire core for flexibility; regular (thin) plant wire; these elasticated bands with “arrows” that I bought at a stationery store; and a velcro roll, which is adjustable and can be cut to size.
Because my grandparents often used old tights (pantyhose) cut into strips for their tomatoes and runner beans, I frequently use them for my outside plants. My nan’s old “pop socks,” which had been replaced or laddered, were chopped up, and I clearly recall putting them in an old (empty) ice cream tub in the greenhouse. These can also be used to indoor plants.
Remember that every plant has a unique “personality” and growth pattern, thus no two monsteras will ever appear the same growing around a support. Working with each plant individually and giving it the best assistance possible will ensure its growth and success.
To begin with, you should determine whether your monstera’s pot has enough space for a support to be added without repotting. Get a trowel and dig a small hole for the support to go into if you aren’t planning to re-pot the plant (if you are using a sphagnum or coir pole). The cane supports can be easily put into the potting mixture if you’re utilizing them.
When repotting a plant, start by removing the soil from around the roots. Next, look for any dry or shriveled roots and trim them off. If your monstera is actually composed of several smaller plants, separate them and arrange them around the coir pole in the pot. This will enable the plant to naturally mould itself around the support.
My large monstera plant is shown in photographs taken from the side, demonstrating how the plant ‘leans up’ on the support, which is placed just off the center of the planter. My plant was trained from a somewhat little specimen, and as a result, it has really begun to encircle the coir pole, making it less noticeable from the front. If you add a support, keep in mind that the shape of your monstera will effect how your plant looks, however they do adjust. I have three monstera plants, and I think this one is the most attractive because the support is so completely hidden by the leaves. This was done on purpose because my plant is next to a wall and over the past few years, all of the leaves had oriented themselves toward the window. Choose a support that will allow your plant to be seen from all sides if it is the focal point of the room. In this case, I would recommend using two U-shaped canes crossed over like an X (each cane at 90 degrees from the other, crossing over in the center of the curve).
Here are some close-ups of the placement of the coir poles from when I repotted my monstera plants last summer, as well as instructions on how to wedge the pole into place using a chopstick or a dolly peg to make it stable.
If you want to learn more about the general repotting procedure, follow the blog post link I provided here.
*I recently repotted all three of these lovely plants, so I’ll put together a post in the upcoming weeks to illustrate how they currently appear.
Make sure the support is inserted deeply enough! With my plants at their current size, I set the coir pole exactly at the base of my pot and then start to re-pot, adding potting soil all around it. Maximum stability will result from this. If required, I use a knife to cut away part of the extra coir to reduce how much of the wooden central pole is covered. I added the extensible sections to the top of the pole while I’m using it, so I shouldn’t have to entirely separate the stems from the coir for a very long time.
Before leaving your monstera unattended, be aware that the support may move somewhat when you water it. The soil naturally moves when the plant is watered, therefore even though the pole is buried deep in the pot, it is inevitable that it too will move slightly. Additionally, as new leaves expand, they can occasionally slightly pull on the coir, causing it to move. It may be held much more securely with the aid of the pegs. I only occasionally correct my plant because it has a tendency to lean.
In the image below, you can observe that not all plants pleasantly cluster around a support. My tiniest monstera plant, it hasn’t really developed into itself yet. I have an idea for what you could do if your plant sprawls out and simply doesn’t seem like it will take to a pole—what that’s I intend to do with mine!
Of course, you could just let it grow naturally, but if you want to give it some support over the long haul, you could train all new stems—which are much more malleable—around the pole as they develop. Although this is a lengthier procedure, some of the older stems that may be growing at an odd angle can be clipped in pairs of leaves+ propagated as the new growth forms around the support.
The stem of my plant, which is visible above, is at such an angle that it would shatter if I attempted to move it. If your plant has this type of development, you might want to cut these stems off in pairs (they tend to root more readily this way; see photo below) and water propagate them (let the cutting grow roots in water). If you’d like your monstera to be fuller, you can replant this cutting around its stem. As an alternative, you might begin to develop a new plant from this cutting and expand your collection of monstera.
Although this monstera adansonii vine is not a monstera deliciosa, I thought I would show you how I used the U support, as you can see below.
I wrapped the stems around the cane without using any ties after untangling them. I want to grow a complete, column-shaped plant for my vanity and will train the middle stems to wrap around the structure as they become bigger. It provides this area of the space a nice sense of height.
Even though I adore my large monstera at its current size, I dug up some earlier pictures of it from 23 years ago to show you how it changed over that period. To see it expand even further, you can look over my Instagram account in the past.
The support for my large monstera is noticeably uneven in these two close-up photos of it in its current location. You can also see that I utilized a variety of ties to hold it in place. I have no plans to move this pole; it has been there for two years. Even my grandfather’s ancient wooden ruler is inside for stability. Even if it appears a little disorganized from the rear, the front view reveals that most of this is hidden.
Maintaining plants is a continuous process of learning for me, in addition to being a patience practice. The process of learning how to take care of plants involves experimentation, trial, and occasionally error. I am aware that many novice houseplant enthusiasts are reluctant to repot their plants or to consider giving their cherished monstera a support. I hope this blog will give you some confidence in how to take care of your plants, and I’m incredibly appreciative of your “support” (pun intended).
*This post contains affiliate links, which entitles me to a (very) little commission if you decide to make a purchase. I appreciate your support of my blog.
How should I discipline my monstera?
When Monstera deliciosa is young, it typically grows vertically on a small number of stems, but as it becomes older and heavier, it begins to grow horizontally. It may startle new plant owners to discover that their once-vertical house plant is beginning to occupy an increasing amount of horizontal space.
By using a support like a moss pole, coco coir pole, trellis, or stakes, you can train your Monstera to grow upward. However, given that Monsteras can acclimate to climbing on various supports, you also have other possibilities.
How is a straight growth of monstera trained?
Monsteras are climbing plants, therefore unlike most plants, they have not developed to support their own weight with their stems. They develop massive, enormous leaves to absorb as much sunlight as they can in the dense rainforest.
The Monstera needs longer, stronger stems to maintain itself, but this requires energy. As a result, it leverages the strength of other plants to lift itself up by grabbing onto neighboring surfaces with its aerial roots.
These wiggling protrusions from the plant’s stems, which can reach lengths of three feet, are called roots. They will cling themselves to any adjacent surface that is sturdy enough to hold the plant and latch onto it to keep it standing.
Because of its growth strategy, your Monstera requires support. There won’t be any trees nearby to climb, but it needs something to support itself, so consider what kind of support you can offer. Typically, folks will use a moss stick or a stake.
However, there are a variety of support systems you can provide, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Let’s examine a few possibilities.
Option One) A Garden Stake
The easiest and most affordable solution is frequently a plain garden stake. Simply insert a sturdy stake into the ground, then allow your Monstera to use it to climb.
To help the plant to grow straight, place it close to the center of the pot. The plant will begin to grow in that direction if a stake is only placed at one edge because that is where it is getting support. It becomes out of equilibrium as a result, which causes the issues mentioned above.
If your Monstera is already overgrown, adding stakes is a smart option because it makes it simple to gently nudge the stems back toward the middle of the pot, and you can add more than one stake if necessary. They are also portable, so you can move them about to support the plant wherever it needs it and add or remove stakes as necessary.
Stakes are more more versatile than the more intricate support systems, but they aren’t the most attractive choice. You might want to think about other options if they are ruining your Monstera’s appearance.
Option Two) A Trellis
A trellis might be a nice alternative for people who have small plants that are just starting to need support. These are quite secure and will guarantee that your plant maintains its training in one place.
Pick a trellis that can support your Monstera. Keep in mind that these plants can reach heights of up to 10 feet indoors (or even higher), which is a tremendous amount of weight for one trellis to hold.
The plant will be supported by a trellis that has numerous poles because these are typically more stronger. Additionally, they provide the plant with multiple locations to adhere to rather than just one or two, allowing it to spread out and develop thickly.
However, due to the inflexible shape, training your Monstera onto a trellis would be quite challenging if it is already half-grown or fully-grown. A trellis is rigid and cannot be rearranged to accommodate the contour of your plant. Only young Monstera plants can benefit from these.
Option Three) A Moss Stick
Moss sticks may be slightly more expensive than other options because they have been specifically created to support Monstera plants and other climbing plants. They do, however, have a number of important advantages.
Although the material of the poles varies, they are all covered in sphagnum moss to give the Monstera a surface that is comparable to one it would find in the wild.
The Monstera can root in the damp, organic material because most trees have moss and lichen growing on their bark, which may help to keep your plant happy. The moss has a lot of texture, which makes it easier for your plant to grasp and keeps it from falling.
The plant will also receive water and micronutrients from the moss, which it will take through its aerial roots. Your plant’s health is improved as a result.
The aesthetic is the next significant benefit. The sticks seem very much in keeping with the natural sense of the plant because they are covered in moss, and they will fit in well. The moss pole extends the natural beauty, whereas a trellis or pegs can ruin it.
Any moss stick you purchase must be sturdy enough to hold up your Monstera as it grows. For your plant to have several support points, think about adding more than one.
Some claim that utilizing moss sticks encourages better leaf growth and keeps Monstera healthy.
Option Four) A Coco Coir Pole
This is made to assist climbing plants, much like the moss stick. It provides support to keep your Monstera upright while also storing moisture and nutrients that the plant can use as food.
Try a coco coir pole if you don’t like the way a moss stick looks; they both have the same function and will keep your plant happy and healthy. You are free to combine the two if you’d like!
How is a monstera guided?
- Balance the sun’s and the shade’s intensity. The leaves of Monstera become yellow when exposed to excessive sunlight. The plant will display a condition known as negative phototropism, in which new leaves develop toward the darkness rather than the light, if kept in the dark. (It’s a really cunning trick: in the jungle, nighttime indicates the presence of a taller tree that Monstera can scale to reach the sun.) Indirect sunlight is preferable because this isn’t attainable in a living room.
- Water Monstera once a week, evenly and moderately. Prior to adding more water, allow the soil to become somewhat dry. Keep in a relatively humid setting.
- Avoid repotting too frequently and trim regularly by pinching off new growth to control excessive growth.
Scientists have proposed the following theories as to why Monstera leaves have holes: The ability to capture sunlight on the rainforest floor is increased, according to one idea, by this puncture. According to the other theory, it allows tropical downpours to pass through the leaves, preventing harm to the plant. This explains Hurricane Plant, another name for Monstera.
Note that some of our favorite indoor plants are native to the tropics. Check out Tropical Plants 101: A Guide to Planting, Care & Design for more information. More ideas for indoor plants can be found at: