However, I advise using our premium well-draining potting soil instead of regular indoor potting soil.
With potting mix, fill the pot about 1/41/3 of the way. At this point, if you’re adding a new moss pole, you can bury it in the ground.
Step 4: Remove the monstera from its old pot (you might need help).
Turn the pot over and gently pry the monstera plant out of it to remove it from the container. Try shaking the pot a little bit if it still won’t budge, but don’t tug on the plant. Whatever you do, avoid trying to remove it from the pot immediately! That is an effective approach to break leaves, stems, and roots.
You might wish to enlist the aid of a friend (or perhaps two) if your monstera is particularly enormous. The best method for handling huge plants is to have one person hold the pot while the other supports the roots as they emerge. The top of the plant can be supported during the procedure by a third person if necessary.
Hold onto the moss pole while you unpot your monstera if it has one and it is securely attached.
Step 5: Put the plant in the new pot.
Place the plant in a circle around any newly added stakes. If the roots are too dense for this, carefully dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to fit the pole. If required, use twist ties to secure your plant to the stake.
If you’re moving a monstera that still has its original moss pole, insert the roots and pole into the pot with care. Holding the plant over the new pot, staking the pole securely into the container, and then carefully lowering the roots all work well occasionally.
More potting soil should be added to the spaces around the roots. It should be quite filled, but not overly so. Leave about 2 inches of space at the top before adding another layer of potting soil.
Step 6: Water well.
Fill the drainage holes with filtered water as you go. Add more potting soil if necessary as the dirt may sink a little.
Your monstera should acclimate to its new container fast, but a little droopiness is expected. Simply relocate it to the same location with plenty of direct and indirect sunshine and postpone fertilizing for about 4 weeks.
When should a Monstera be repotted?
Low upkeep is required when caring for monstera plants. The interior of the plant must be at least 65 °F (18 °C) heated, preferably higher. Swiss cheese plants also require a lot of humidity and somewhat moist soil. A wooden or moss-covered pole placed in the center of the pot will offer the additional support that the aerial roots require.
Every year when the plant is young, repotting cheese plants is done to promote development and aerate the soil. Increase the size of your containers until you reach the biggest pot you intend to use. After then, the plant need a fresh top-dress of rich soil every year but can survive being root-bound for a number of years at a time.
Repotting Monstera is best done in the early spring before the plant develops new leaves.
Do Monstera plants enjoy being replanted?
In your home, monsteras can live a long life and develop into large, stunning eye-catchers. Normally, I’d advise repotting once a year, increasing the size of the container until the plant reaches the ideal size.
The first sign to repot a Monstera is when it’s outgrown its pot.
Repotting is necessary when the houseplant gets root-bound, which occurs when roots start to grow around the pot’s drainage holes and may be seen pushing up through them. If the roots of a smaller or younger Monstera are visible through the bottom of the container, it is definitely time to upgrade the container. To ensure that the roots continue to grow healthily, you should relocate the containers as soon as possible. Your Monstera needs more room as it gets older, just like people do.
The second sign to repot a Monstera is when the soil has been depleted.
If you press strongly with your finger in one location, water will be discharged from below, or it will start to look dry and dusty on top. This indicates that the plant’s roots are in need of moisture and are running out.
Even after the swiss cheese plant has grown to fill its lifetime pot, it’s still wise to change the soil about once a year to give it a burst of new nutrients. However, because of their high adaptability and hardiness, these plants can survive in the same soil for a number of years. It’s a good idea to add fertilizer all year long, even if you replace the soil every year. Making your own fertilizer is a simple and affordable way to enrich your container with nutrients.
How big should my new Monstera pot be?
Use all-purpose potting soil to repot your monstera at any time of the year. Repotting these plants should only be done every two to three years because they prefer to stay in their pots. Instead of repotting your monstera once it is in a container with a diameter of eight inches or greater, top-dress it with new potting soil.
Your monstera will eventually lose its lower leaves as it climbs; even cutting off growth tips won’t stop it from moving upward. While there is no method to promote regeneration on the lower, barren stems, it is simple to propagate a new, fuller-appearing plant from a strong stem with multiple leaves.
After purchasing, should I repot my Monstera?
Repotting is not frequently required for mature Monsteras. But there are several telltale signs that your Monstera needs to be repotted, such its size, water absorption, and how long it’s been since the last time.
Repotting mature Monsteras is typically advised every two years, while there are many variables to consider. Remember that every plant is unique when determining whether your Monstera has to be transferred to a new pot.
Younger plants can require more frequent repottings to keep up with their growth and ensure that they receive regular access to new soil. To ensure that your houseplant has adequate nutrients to keep growing, repotting the soil is recommended.
Which types of soil are best for Monsteras?
Use peat moss-rich, high-quality potting soil that drains well when you plant your Monstera in a container with drainage holes. The plants flourish best in dense, nutrient-rich soil; however, they struggle in potting soils that contain compost or bark. Make a few in the bottom of your container if it doesn’t already have any drainage holes. Standing water might cause the roots to decay.
How much light is required by a Monstera plant? Give your Monstera filtered, inconspicuous light rather than direct sunshine, which can burn the leaves. The plant is typically receiving too much sun if the leaves turn yellow.
Use a sheer drape to help filter the light and keep your plant out of the hot, direct sun if you keep it close to a southern or western exposure. Although they won’t produce as many eye-catching leaf perforations as usual and may stretch in the direction of the light source, monsteras can adapt to low light settings.
Rotate the plant once a week for optimal results to ensure even growth. Without it, it might tilt toward the light and become top heavy.
Do monstera plants prefer little pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!