How To Repot Large Monstera

Repotting works well in the early spring. During this time, your monstera will likely experience a growth surge, so it should recover from repotting swiftly.

However, if your plant is indicating that it needs to be replanted sooner, go ahead and do so. These plants are hardy, so you should repot them right once if the roots are soaking up water or if they are bursting through the pot.

Step 2: Pick your new pot.

Start by choosing a pot that is several inches deeper and just slightly wider than your old one. If your plant currently has a moss pole or you intend to add one in the future, you want it to be deep enough to accommodate it.

You don’t want to go overboard because an overly large container can hold more water than the plant can consume, which can cause over-watering and root rot. (If root rot is present in your monstera, use our Root Rot Treatment.)

When should a huge Monstera be repotted?

Low upkeep is required when caring for monstera plants. The interior of the plant must be at least 65 °F (18 °C) heated, preferably higher. Swiss cheese plants also require a lot of humidity and somewhat moist soil. A wooden or moss-covered pole placed in the center of the pot will offer the additional support that the aerial roots require.

Every year when the plant is young, repotting cheese plants is done to promote development and aerate the soil. Increase the size of your containers until you reach the biggest pot you intend to use. After then, the plant need a fresh top-dress of rich soil every year but can survive being root-bound for a number of years at a time.

Repotting Monstera is best done in the early spring before the plant develops new leaves.

How is a large Monstera repotted?

However, I advise using our premium well-draining potting soil instead of regular indoor potting soil.

With potting mix, fill the pot about 1/41/3 of the way. At this point, if you’re adding a new moss pole, you can bury it in the ground.

Step 4: Remove the monstera from its old pot (you might need help).

Turn the pot over and gently pry the monstera plant out of it to remove it from the container. Try shaking the pot a little bit if it still won’t budge, but don’t tug on the plant. Whatever you do, avoid trying to remove it from the pot immediately! That is an effective approach to break leaves, stems, and roots.

You might wish to enlist the aid of a friend (or perhaps two) if your monstera is particularly enormous. The best method for handling huge plants is to have one person hold the pot while the other supports the roots as they emerge. The top of the plant can be supported during the procedure by a third person if necessary.

Hold onto the moss pole while you unpot your monstera if it has one and it is securely attached.

Step 5: Put the plant in the new pot.

Place the plant in a circle around any newly added stakes. If the roots are too dense for this, carefully dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to fit the pole. If required, use twist ties to secure your plant to the stake.

If you’re moving a monstera that still has its original moss pole, insert the roots and pole into the pot with care. Holding the plant over the new pot, staking the pole securely into the container, and then carefully lowering the roots all work well occasionally.

More potting soil should be added to the spaces around the roots. It should be quite filled, but not overly so. Leave about 2 inches of space at the top before adding another layer of potting soil.

Step 6: Water well.

Fill the drainage holes with filtered water as you go. Add more potting soil if necessary as the dirt may sink a little.

Your monstera should acclimate to its new container fast, but a little droopiness is expected. Simply relocate it to the same location with plenty of direct and indirect sunshine and postpone fertilizing for about 4 weeks.

Do plants experience shock when being replanted?

While most container plants occasionally require repotting to make room for their growing roots, transplanting might stress the plant. Because it occurs frequently enough, transplant shock has a name. A huge plant may suffer from transplant shock, but it is not always fatal.

Which types of soil are best for Monsteras?

Use peat moss-rich, high-quality potting soil that drains well when you plant your Monstera in a container with drainage holes. The plants flourish best in dense, nutrient-rich soil; however, they struggle in potting soils that contain compost or bark. Make a few in the bottom of your container if it doesn’t already have any drainage holes. Standing water might cause the roots to decay.

How much light is required by a Monstera plant? Give your Monstera filtered, inconspicuous light rather than direct sunshine, which can burn the leaves. The plant is typically receiving too much sun if the leaves turn yellow.

Use a sheer drape to help filter the light and keep your plant out of the hot, direct sun if you keep it close to a southern or western exposure. Although they won’t produce as many eye-catching leaf perforations as usual and may stretch in the direction of the light source, monsteras can adapt to low light settings.

Rotate the plant once a week for optimal results to ensure even growth. Without it, it might tilt toward the light and become top heavy.

Do Monstera plants enjoy being rooted?

Monstera plants don’t prefer to be root-bound, thus no. The plant won’t be able to develop and support itself if there isn’t room for the roots to expand and reach additional nutrients and water in the soil.

Since new plants develop relatively quickly for the first four years or so, they should be repotted once a year. Every two to three years, older plants can be checked or given a new pot.

Even in otherwise ideal growing conditions, root-bound plants are stressed plants and will not fare as well as they otherwise could. They must use their meager energy reserves to concentrate on staying alive rather than producing new growth.

In fact, this may be the reason if you’ve noticed that your Monstera hasn’t sprouted any new leaves or, if this is still happening, that the existing leaves aren’t splitting. Because of this, Monstera plants should periodically be examined and replanted as necessary.

What does it mean for a plant to be root bound?

When someone refers to a plant as being “root bound” or “pot bound,” they are essentially saying that it has outgrown its container and has no room for its roots. A plant’s roots will begin to grow in circles along the pot’s outer border if it is kept in a container that is too small for it.

The name refers to how the pot’s available space limits how much room the plant’s roots can spread out. In certain situations, the plant’s roots will eventually encircle themselves, obstructing the soil’s ability to absorb nutrients, water, or air.

The concept is pretty similar to foot binding if you’ve ever heard of it, with the feet being deformed as they are kept in a small area. When plant roots become pot-bound or root-bound, the same thing takes place.

When grown outside and to some extent indoors, certain Monstera species can reach heights of up to twelve feet, therefore its root system is much more crucial than that of other small houseplants.

Sadly, many Monstera plants cultivated inside or outside in pots never achieve their full beauty and size simply because their root systems are confined in containers that are much too tiny for them.

Need a moss pole for Monsteras?

Although Monsteras can flourish without a moss pole, including one more closely resembles their natural habitat. As epiphytes, monsteras rely on the support of tree trunks to flourish. They cling by inserting their aerial roots into the structure’s framework. You may create a more natural growing environment for your Monstera indoors with the aid of a moss pole. By clicking the image or link, you can check the price on Amazon.

How can you tell if Monstera is linked to its roots?

Your plant may exhibit a number of symptoms of being severely root-bound. The most obvious sign that your plant has been underwatered is that it is exhibiting these symptoms without being removed from its container. As was previously indicated, if the roots grow too large, they start to displace the soil and are unable to retain any amount of water. Your Monstera plant may be root-bound if the water drains out as soon as you apply it.

Grab the plant and look at the roots if you start to see your plant drooping despite watering it. Simply remove your Monstera from the nursery pot if it is still in there to look at the bottom. The roots will almost certainly be protruding from the drainage holes at the bottom if your plant is pot-bound.

Turn the pot on its side and try to ease the plant out if it is not in a nursery pot or if you are unsure if your Monstera is too root-bound to really repot it. Instead of pulling on the plant, try sliding it out of the container. Your Monstera is unquestionably pot bound if the roots form a tangled mass that resembles the shape of the pot it is in and there isn’t much soil visible.

After purchasing, should I repot my Monstera?

Repotting is not frequently required for mature Monsteras. But there are several telltale signs that your Monstera needs to be repotted, such its size, water absorption, and how long it’s been since the last time.

Repotting mature Monsteras is typically advised every two years, while there are many variables to consider. Remember that every plant is unique when determining whether your Monstera has to be transferred to a new pot.

Younger plants can require more frequent repottings to keep up with their growth and ensure that they receive regular access to new soil. To ensure that your houseplant has adequate nutrients to keep growing, repotting the soil is recommended.

Why are the aerial roots on my Monstera growing?

The presence of aerial roots on your monstera plant is natural and not a sign that anything is wrong. The monstera plant is a climbing plant in its natural environment. The plant’s climbing behavior is only partially manifested in the form of aerial roots. They are there to aid in its expansion.

In Monstera, where should I place the moss pole?

Aroid Monstera Deliciosa is a climber. Without a supporting framework, its leaves won’t enlarge and become more fenestrated.

The greatest time to add a moss pole is while you are repotting your plant, but only if it is what your plant needs.

A moss pole can be erected either direction; there is no need to disturb the plant. However, if you are repottering, be sure to put your Monstera Deliciosa in its pot again in a location that is a little off-center from the center. The best location for a moss pole to stand is in the pot’s middle.

The moss pole must penetrate the pot deeply. Thus that it won’t be bothered in the future if there are big leaves hanging from its top.

Your Monstera Deliciosa will have thick stems with aerial roots emerging from the nodes, as you will notice. The thickest stem needs to be attached to the moss pole first.

To ensure that the aerial roots keep expanding around the moss pole, spray it once or twice a week.

Although it may seem like extra work, doing this will provide your plant the additional water it needs to maintain its top foliage.

You might have to give up a leaf if you still see them sticking out of the pot and taking up horizontal space.

Although it’s not ideal, pruning those lovely leaves will ensure that all future development occurs vertically.

Last but not least, light is the most organic approach to control the direction of new growth. So remember to take use of light. Instead of growing upward, a Monstera Deliciosa may tilt heavily to one side.

You might be able to sort things out if you twist the plant such that it appears to be leaning away from the source of light. because the plant changes its course and moves in that direction.

Why is my Monstera wilting after being repotted?

Monstera plants, sometimes referred to as the Swiss Cheese Plant, have long been the most beautiful and admired indoor plants on social media.

Monstera are simple to grow and care for, but if left unattended, they will pout and droop.

Although it can be painful to see your brand-new potted plant looking limp and dejected, don’t panic! With a little gentle loving care, the plant can be repaired.

Lack of water is the main cause of the drooping of the replanted Monstera leaves. The delicious plant’s shiny appearance is a result of its somewhat wet soil. Other factors include poor fertilization, stress from repotting, uneven watering, insufficient light, pests, and illnesses.

The good news is that if you treat this plant properly, it is fairly hardy and will quickly regain its vigor.

Please read on to learn more about repotting Monstera, what causes drooping, how to prevent it, and most importantly, how to nurse your plant back to health.

Should you immediately repot after watering?

  • A day or two before you intend to re-pot your plant, give it a good soak. This will lessen the chance of shock and make it easier to remove your plant from its pot. It will also keep it well-hydrated.
  • Remove the plant’s pot gently. You might need to tip the pot on its side or ask a buddy to hold it while you grab the plant, depending on its size and how much it is root-bound. Slide a butter knife along the pot’s edge to loosen roots for plants with dense root systems.
  • Loosen the root ball slowly. Shake off any extra soil being careful not to bruise the delicate roots. Sharp shears should be used to prune off any brown, black, or obviously injured roots. Trim up to 2/3 of the root mass beginning at the bottom and edges of the plant if you have plants that are heavily root-bound or if you only intend to repot them without potting them up into a larger planter.
  • If merely repotting, remove all of the soil from the pot and rinse it with hot water to remove any sediment. When choosing a new pot for your plant, make sure it is clean and no more than two diameters larger than its previous container. Too much room might cause root rot and poor growth.
  • We advise adding a.5 layer of activated charcoal to the bottom of your pot if you are potting into a container without drainage. To increase drainage, some people advise placing a layer of stones at the bottom of any pot; however, it’s uncertain whether this is effective, thus pebbles are not included as long as the pot has drainage. After that, add some fresh potting soil to the bottom of the pot so that the plant’s base will be about.5 inches below the rim.
  • Place your plant in the fresh container, then fill it with dirt and air until all the roots are covered. While carefully compacting the dirt to remove any air pockets, be careful not to damage the fragile roots. Lightly water the new soil to keep it moist but not drenched.

Plants frequently go through a shock period after repotting or potting up. It’s normal, so don’t worry! Although plants may seem thirsty and wilted, wait to water them for approximately a week after repotting to make sure any roots harmed during the process have recovered. Plants should be located in a cooler, more shaded area while they are recovering.

Fertilizer is usually present in potting soil. You can wait around 6 weeks after re-potting before fertilizing to avoid over-fertilizing and harming your plant.

Nutrient Boost from Fresh Soil Most of the nutrients in the soil are absorbed by your houseplant. The soil loses more and more of its fertility over time. After a few successful growing seasons, you could notice that your plant starts to act generally “unhappy” or starts to grow little, oddly colored leaves. Repotting (or potting up) with new soil gives your plant the nutrient boost it needs to thrive, even if you fertilize frequently.

Improved Watering Have you ever noticed that when you water, it seems to seep out of the pot’s bottom right away? Your plant is probably root bound, a condition in which the plant desperately needs more room and the roots have wrapped themselves around the pot’s outside. This makes channels for the water to flow through, which is why it is exceedingly challenging to actually water a root-bound plant. Repotting will help your plant access the water it requires to keep its thirst quenched and leaves lush by clearing these roots from obstruction.

New Growth = breathing room!

Even indoor plants enjoy a little breathing room. To encourage fresh development is another motivation to release plants from their root restrictions. Repotting a plant can result in a remarkable and bountiful recovery. Your plant will be happier and grow more quickly if it has a robust, expanding root system.

Health Promotion Have you ever overwatered a plant? Not to worry. All of us do. Root decay is the problem. Overwatering damages roots, which turn dark brown or black as a result. In this condition, they are prone to illness and unable to absorb water (which is why an over-watered plant can sometimes seem thirsty). Cutting off these damaged roots is your best line of protection against fungus and disease and aids in a plant’s recovery from excessive watering.

Plant babies: Divide and conquer! Many plants can be divided to create new plants when they get overcrowded. It is best to take advantage of re-potting time to divide pups and offshoots into independent plants.

Reminder: Delay repotting if your plant is stressed! For instance, if the plant is wilting from thirst, it is advisable to bathe it and let it recover before repotting. Similar to how excessive weather, such heat waves, can create stress, try to avoid repotting during those times.