How To Repot A Big Monstera

Repotting works well in the early spring. During this time, your monstera will likely experience a growth surge, so it should recover from repotting swiftly.

However, if your plant is indicating that it needs to be replanted sooner, go ahead and do so. These plants are hardy, so you should repot them right once if the roots are soaking up water or if they are bursting through the pot.

Step 2: Pick your new pot.

Start by choosing a pot that is several inches deeper and just slightly wider than your old one. If your plant currently has a moss pole or you intend to add one in the future, you want it to be deep enough to accommodate it.

You don’t want to go overboard because an overly large container can hold more water than the plant can consume, which can cause over-watering and root rot. (If root rot is present in your monstera, use our Root Rot Treatment.)

When should a huge Monstera be repotted?

Low upkeep is required when caring for monstera plants. The interior of the plant must be at least 65 °F (18 °C) heated, preferably higher. Swiss cheese plants also require a lot of humidity and somewhat moist soil. A wooden or moss-covered pole placed in the center of the pot will offer the additional support that the aerial roots require.

Every year when the plant is young, repotting cheese plants is done to promote development and aerate the soil. Increase the size of your containers until you reach the biggest pot you intend to use. After then, the plant need a fresh top-dress of rich soil every year but can survive being root-bound for a number of years at a time.

Repotting Monstera is best done in the early spring before the plant develops new leaves.

How should a huge Monstera Deliciosa be potted?

The best technique to give Monstera room to grow and new soil nutrients is to repot the plant. By providing Monstera deliciosa with a substantial, new foundation from which to draw nutrients and support, transplanting can also aid in the magnificent foliage’s expansion and strength. To keep the plant healthy, monstera houseplants should be potted up once every two years or so.

Choose a new planter with a drainage hole at the bottom if you want to repot a Monstera. Additionally, you’ll need organic, airy potting soil. Once you have all of your materials, carefully remove the Monstera plant from its current planter pot. If substantial roots are wrapping themselves around the soil ball, gradually dislodge them (see video below). Insert the root ball of the Monstera into the fresh pot. Verify that the stems’ bases are approximately 1 below the top of the new planter’s top (add soil below the root ball if the plant is sitting too low). Fill the sides back up with new potting soil. Thoroughly water. Take pleasure with your newly potted Monstera!

When repotting Monstera, a few problems could arise. Continue reading to learn more about the procedure!

Do Monstera plants enjoy being rooted?

Monstera plants don’t prefer to be root-bound, thus no. The plant won’t be able to develop and support itself if there isn’t room for the roots to expand and reach additional nutrients and water in the soil.

Since new plants develop relatively quickly for the first four years or so, they should be repotted once a year. Every two to three years, older plants can be checked or given a new pot.

Even in otherwise ideal growing conditions, root-bound plants are stressed plants and will not fare as well as they otherwise could. They must use their meager energy reserves to concentrate on staying alive rather than producing new growth.

In fact, this may be the reason if you’ve noticed that your Monstera hasn’t sprouted any new leaves or, if this is still happening, that the existing leaves aren’t splitting. Because of this, Monstera plants should periodically be examined and replanted as necessary.

What does it mean for a plant to be root bound?

When someone refers to a plant as being “root bound” or “pot bound,” they are essentially saying that it has outgrown its container and has no room for its roots. A plant’s roots will begin to grow in circles along the pot’s outer border if it is kept in a container that is too small for it.

The name refers to how the pot’s available space limits how much room the plant’s roots can spread out. In certain situations, the plant’s roots will eventually encircle themselves, obstructing the soil’s ability to absorb nutrients, water, or air.

The concept is pretty similar to foot binding if you’ve ever heard of it, with the feet being deformed as they are kept in a small area. When plant roots become pot-bound or root-bound, the same thing takes place.

When grown outside and to some extent indoors, certain Monstera species can reach heights of up to twelve feet, therefore its root system is much more crucial than that of other small houseplants.

Sadly, many Monstera plants cultivated inside or outside in pots never achieve their full beauty and size simply because their root systems are confined in containers that are much too tiny for them.

Do plants experience shock when being replanted?

While most container plants occasionally require repotting to make room for their growing roots, transplanting might stress the plant. Because it occurs frequently enough, transplant shock has a name. A huge plant may suffer from transplant shock, but it is not always fatal.

Which types of soil are best for Monsteras?

Use peat moss-rich, high-quality potting soil that drains well when you plant your Monstera in a container with drainage holes. The plants flourish best in dense, nutrient-rich soil; however, they struggle in potting soils that contain compost or bark. Make a few in the bottom of your container if it doesn’t already have any drainage holes. Standing water might cause the roots to decay.

How much light is required by a Monstera plant? Give your Monstera filtered, inconspicuous light rather than direct sunshine, which can burn the leaves. The plant is typically receiving too much sun if the leaves turn yellow.

Use a sheer drape to help filter the light and keep your plant out of the hot, direct sun if you keep it close to a southern or western exposure. Although they won’t produce as many eye-catching leaf perforations as usual and may stretch in the direction of the light source, monsteras can adapt to low light settings.

Rotate the plant once a week for optimal results to ensure even growth. Without it, it might tilt toward the light and become top heavy.

Does my Monstera require a moss pole?

Although Monsteras can flourish without a moss pole, including one more closely resembles their natural habitat. As epiphytes, monsteras rely on the support of tree trunks to flourish. They cling by inserting their aerial roots into the structure’s framework. You may create a more natural growing environment for your Monstera indoors with the aid of a moss pole. By clicking the image or link, you can check the price on Amazon.

After purchasing, should I repot my Monstera?

A fresh plant is such a joy to bring home. Additionally, the answer to the question of whether you should repotted a new plant is yes. Freeing the roots from the cramped grow container and settling them into a spacious new planter is the first step in taking care of your new plant. Plant expert Maryah Greene is here to show you how to repot a new plant in a way that helps it feel right at home in order to assist you and your green pals get off to the right start.

What can I do with an oversized Monstera plant?

Monsteras don’t mind if their roots are a little constrained in terms of pot size. They only require repotting around every two to three years. You can repot your Monstera into the same pot rather than size it up if you want to prevent it from growing any bigger. You are still able to feed your Monstera nutrition while also telling it to stop growing further.

In order for your plant to retain water for at least a few days, make sure there is enough potting soil surrounding the roots. The remaining soil in a pot that is completely filled with roots may quickly dry up and harm your plant.

In this instance, consider root pruning. Although it can be unsettling because we always take care to protect the roots of our plants, they can withstand some harsh treatment. One of the greatest ways to maintain a Monstera in the same size pot without endangering the plant’s general health is to trim back roots.

Why are the aerial roots on my Monstera growing?

The presence of aerial roots on your monstera plant is natural and not a sign that anything is wrong. The monstera plant is a climbing plant in its natural environment.

The plant’s climbing behavior is only partially manifested in the form of aerial roots. They are there to aid in its expansion. They may be an aesthetic nightmare, but they’re not dangerous.

Should you remove your monstera plant’s aerial roots? or just let them be? I’ll address all of your concerns about what to do with the aerial roots of the monstera plant below.

Watering Problem

In terms of water, monsteras can be picky. They dislike drying out because they are native to the rainforest. However, if they are exposed to too much water for too long, they might develop root rot.

It is crucial to examine your Swiss Cheese plant to determine the cause of your Monstera’s yellowing, as one of these could be the issue.


Checking the soil for excess moisture should be your first step if you find your Monstera’s leaves turning yellow. Simply dig your finger into the soil.

  • Is the ground damp?
  • Does it seem damp?
  • Does it have a rotting or rather stinky odor?

If so, you should completely repot your Swiss cheese plant since it is probably suffering from root rot brought on by overwatering. For more thorough instructions, please see our tutorial here.

A Monstera that is overwatered will sag, get brown blotches on its leaves, and have yellowing of the foliage as a result. Its soil may grow a fungus on top and take a very long time to dry off.

Keep in mind that soil that retains water and excessive watering frequency, not the amount of water applied all at once, are what cause overwatering.

When watering your Monstera, make sure the soil is not already excessively wet first, and then water it until water begins to drain from the bottom drainage hole.

Before doing any care or maintenance on your Monstera, especially before you water it because it could make the problem worse, it is important to check for root rot because it can swiftly kill your Monstera.


Yellowing of your Monstera’s foliage is another symptom of inadequate watering. Fortunately, fixing this is simple and much less likely to harm your Monstera.

When you inserted your finger into the ground, it came back completely dry. Your Monstera needs to drink.

A Monstera that has been submerged will reveal it in its leaves, which will droop, yellow, curl, and eventually turn light brown and crispy.

The soil needs to be watered more thoroughly because it is so dry. Transport your plant to a location where it can receive plenty of water, such as outside with a hose or in the shower. You might need a friend’s assistance to carry a large Monstera.

Shower your Monstera until water begins to drip from the pot’s bottom, then continue for a little while more. Long-term soil drying out might cause it to become hydrophobic, which means it won’t absorb water as efficiently.

Keep an eye on the yellow leaves and the dampness of the soil after this vigorous watering. You might need to increase the frequency of watering your Monstera.

Even after giving the plants enough water, if more leaves begin to turn yellow, you may have another problem, such as bugs, that has to be addressed.

Temperature Stress

True plants from the jungle are monsteras. They dislike the cold because they do not understand what winter is.

Once the temperature falls below 50F (10C), monstera plants will stop growing, and as the temperature goes closer to freezing, the leaves will begin to yellow or suffer damage.

They will also feel anxious if exposed to extremely hot conditions or harsh sunshine. They occupy the understory of the jungle, climbing the trees to shade their leaves from the glaring sun.

The afflicted leaves of the Monstera will turn yellow, crispy, or brown under any temperature stress. Younger, more delicate leaves may be more vulnerable to temperature stress, however older or younger leaves are not always where this stress begins.

Look at the plant’s position if you see yellow leaves on your Monstera:

  • Does it face a southwest window that receives intense afternoon sun?
  • Is it next to a window that drafts in the winter?
  • Does it stand close to a hot radiator?

Your Monstera may become stressed from any of these sources of excessive heat. It would be ideal if you relocated your Monstera a little distance from the troublesome source to an area with more constant temperatures.

Repotting Stress

Have you lately moved your Monstera into a new location? Stress from repotting could be the cause of its yellow leaves.

After transplant, monsteras frequently exhibit sensitivity. The roots being exposed for too long, a change in soil, or even repotting at the incorrect time of year can all contribute to stress in this situation (late winter to early spring is best).

The leaves and petioles of a Monstera that is experiencing transplant shock will droop, making it appear as though it needs watering. Starting with the oldest leaves, it could start to turn its leaves yellow.

The Monstera attempts to conserve nutrients and water after the stressful occurrence by turning its leaves yellow. It will ultimately return to normal, and in its new pot, it will be even happy.

By relocating your Monstera in the same spot and keeping the same watering routine after transplant, you can help the plant feel less stressed. The transplant shock will worsen if there is too little or too much light.

Don’t fertilize the plant until it has healed and begun to grow once more. You can give it a little additional humidity if it still feels dry even after frequent watering.

Improper Light

Monsteras don’t like extremes in light, just like they don’t like them in water or temperature.

If they receive the wrong kind of light—whether it’s too much or too little—they may start to produce yellowing leaves. They do best in direct, strong light.

Too much light: Leaf Burn

As I already said, monsteras do not thrive in direct sunshine in the wild. The leaves will burn if they receive too much direct light.

Too much light can burn a Monstera leaf, causing the burned area to turn crispy and brown (or black), while the surrounding areas of the leaf turn yellow.

The entire leaf may or may not die and fall off depending on how much of it has burned.

If your Monstera is placed in front of a south or west-facing window, this is more likely to happen. By placing your Monstera a few feet away from the bright window, you can avoid leaf burn.

Too little light

Yellowing of your Monstera’s leaves is not a direct result of insufficient light, but it might be a secondary indicator of overwatering.

A Monstera’s growth is slowed down when it isn’t given adequate light. This indicates that it requires less water and fertilizer. In these circumstances, it is much simpler to overwater your Monstera, which will result in yellowing leaves.

You ought to have already examined the dirt around your Monstera. If not, get started right away!

These are some other signs of inadequate light:

  • Etoliation a stretched stem straining for the sun that seems spindly or leggy
  • smaller leaves with no or very few fenestrations (holes and splits).
  • modest growth
  • Stem slanting either in or out of the window
  • It takes a while for the soil to dry up between waterings.

If your Monstera displays these signs and has begun to produce yellow leaves, you should take it out of the pot and inspect the roots for rot.

Your Monstera may experience some stress as a result of this, but if root rot is allowed to progress, it will experience considerably greater hardship.

You could try to relocate your Monstera closer to a south or west-facing window to avoid future overwatering brought on by insufficient light. If you can’t do that, you should think about getting a grow light for it.

Nutrient Problem

A nutrient deficit or an excess of fertilizer that burns the plant with salt might cause this.

Each of these has additional distinct symptoms that you should watch out for to make the right diagnosis.


In order to keep your Monstera healthy and vigorous during the growth season, it would be ideal to feed it every few weeks. A balanced fertilizer is preferred for monsteras.

If there is an excessive buildup of nutritional salts in the soil, overfertilization happens. These will reverse osmose, or take water out from the roots of the plant.

They can also change the pH of the soil. Salt burn, a symptom of chemical dehydration, is a result of too much salt in the soil.

Are the yellowing leaves on your Monstera being caused by overfertilization? Keep an eye out for these additional overfertilization signs:

  • extra fertilizer has built up a white crust on top of the ground.
  • leaf edges turning crispy and brown
  • Yellowing of oldest and lowest leaves

You must give your Monstera a good soaking to remove all the extra nutritional salts from the soil once you have verified that this is the reason for its yellow leaves.

Flush the soil completely in the shower or outside with a hose until the water runs freely from the pot’s bottom drainage, just as you would if your plant were underwater.

When you fertilize your Monstera again, you might want to hold off a little longer than normal because the soil likely still contains sufficient nutrients.

You should lessen the quantity and/or frequency of fertilizer applications for your Monstera in order to avoid future overfertilization. Think about switching to an organic, moderate fertilizer. These are far less likely to result in a salt burn and include fewer macronutrients.

Nutrient Deficiency

On the other side, your Monstera can be lacking in certain nutrients. When was the last time it received new soil or fertilizer? You should feed your Monstera soon if you can’t recall!

All plants require the three primary nutrients (macronutrients) nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Each of these influences a distinct biological process within the plant, and a lack of any one of them will have a different impact on your Monstera.

Your Monstera’s growth will be limited if it lacks nitrogen. Its leaves will exhibit chlorosis, which means they will get lighter and eventually turn completely yellow on the oldest leaves at the bottom.

The growth of your Monstera will also be hampered if it lacks phosphorus. The leaves and stems may get darker and discolored in a reddish or purple hue as the illness gets worse. Leaves do not become yellow as a result of this.

Chlorosis between the leaf veins and browning or burning at the leaf edges are symptoms of a potassium deficit in Monstera. As the plant redistributes its low potassium to the younger leaves, the oldest leaves will first show signs of yellowing.

As you can see, a lack of either nitrogen or potassium may be to blame for your Monstera’s yellow leaves. As this is a less frequent and unlikely cause of your Monstera’s death, you should first rule out other possible causes.

If you’ve identified a nutritional shortfall in your Monstera, you should feed it with a balanced organic fertilizer and think about top-dressing with new soil or worm castings.

Pests & Diseases

Knowing that a bug is destroying your gorgeous Monstera is one of the worst sensations!

If the leaves of your Monstera are yellowing, you should look at three diseases: anthracnose, fungal leaf spots, and powdery mildew.


The first symptoms of the fungal illness anthracnose are spots of yellow or brown color on the leaves. The splotches will expand as the condition worsens, and the yellow spots will turn brown.

The staining could go all the way to the leaf. On the stem, anthracnose can also cause brown, cankerous lesions.

When it rains or when a worried plant mother constantly mists the leaves of a sick Monstera, anthracnose spreads more quickly.

The disease will spread until you get rid of the diseased plant. All impacted branches and leaves should be removed using a pair of sharp pruning shears. Dip your shears in rubbing alcohol or peroxide to disinfect them between each cut.

After removing the infected spots from your Monstera, you can spray it with a copper-based fungicide to make sure you didn’t miss any regions that hadn’t yet started to exhibit symptoms.