Similar to other vining plants, Monstera Siltepecana can be multiplied. It can be carried out in water or right into the potting soil (like potting mix or sphagnum moss).
Monstera Siltepecana propagation in water
- Cut a vine with a few healthy leaves off with a pair of clean, sharp scissors. Make a snip right beneath a node.
- It will be included on the portion of the plant you’re chopping off if a node is below it. You need a node on your cutting because you want to grow roots, and the node is where new leaves and roots emerge from the stem.
- Insert the slice into a jar filled with lukewarm water. Ensure that the node is below the surface but that none of the leaves are.
- Place the jar in direct light that is bright, and replace the water around once per week. When the water level falls, make sure to replenish it as well.
- You can move the cutting into its permanent location once the roots are two to three inches long. Put your cutting and potting soil in a container that is the right size. After giving it a good soak, take care of the plant as usual.
Don’t worry if the cutting doesn’t immediately begin producing new leaves; it will take some time for it to become used to its new environment.
Monstera Siltepecana propagation in potting mix
In order to grow your cutting in potting soil as opposed to water, simply follow the same general steps as before:
- Plant the cutting directly into a tiny pot with moistened mix rather than submerging it in water. Don’t bury any of the leaves, but make sure at least one node is buried.
- As the roots grow, place the cutting in bright, indirect light and maintain the potting soil damp (not WET).
- A transparent plastic bag can be placed on top to help keep the humidity in, speeding up the cutting process. Every other day or so, remove the bag for a little period to allow some fresh air in.
- If roots have formed, you can check for them after about a month. Give the cutting a very light tug. If you encounter some resistance, this indicates that roots have grown, and you can begin treating the object as a typical plant.
Can the aquatic Monstera Siltepecana grow there?
This plant is one of those rare species that will basically TELL you how to multiply! Look at it to understand what I mean.
Can you make out the roots extending from each node? The node is where the leaf attaches to the stem or vine, along with the petiole that is linked to it.
You can just take cuttings and put them in water to grow for a while, or if the roots are large enough, like the ones seen above, you can even put them directly into soil.
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All you need to do is make sure each cutting has one or two leaves, and you plant at least one node in water or below the soil level. That’s all there is to it.
Check out my blog post on water propagation for further information if you want more advice on the topic.
Distinguishing Features
The smaller and rarer Monstera variety is called Monstera Siltepecana. Similar to the Dubia, it has silvery green leaves with deeper green along the veins and edges.
The leaves of Siltepecana are longer and more pointed at the tip than those of the Dubia. Its leaves won’t have any holes when it’s in its juvenile phase. Those emerge if the Monstera is able to ascend toward the light and enter its mature stage. Monstera
Care Tips
Give your Monstera Siltepecana a moss pole or other support to climb on if you want to see it develop large, mature leaves with fenestrations. To achieve its mature stage, it will take a few years of favourable growing conditions.
You can grow Siltepecana as a trailing plant and let its vines dangle over the side of the container if you like the juvenile leaves just how they are.
Can Monstera be grown from seed directly in the ground?
Many people think that water propagation is the best or even the sole method for growing a new Monstera deliciosa from a cutting. However, a Monstera cutting can be grown in soil without first establishing the roots in water. Both approaches are effective, though many plant owners pick the approach they believe gives the most benefits.
It is simple to grow Monstera deliciosa from seed in soil. Simply take a healthy Monstera cutting with at least one node, and plant it into potting soil with good drainage. By using soil to root Monstera cuttings instead of water, the subsequent step of transferring the rooted cutting into soil is avoided.
People prefer to grow their plants in soil rather than water for a variety of reasons. Some people might discover that employing soil propagation is a simpler process or that their Monstera produces new growth more quickly. Some people have curious cats that won’t leave a water container alone. Additionally, some owners of indoor plants simply want to experiment with new methods of growing this well-liked plant.
How are Monstera cuttings propagated?
Stem cuttings are the preferred method of monstera propagation. Cuttings from Swiss cheese plants are simple to root. When using cuttings, you can either root them in water first or just bury them in the ground. Cuttings should be taken shortly after a leaf node, removing the bottom-most leaves.
Then, either partially bury the swiss cheese plant cuttings in the soil itself or root them in water for a few weeks before transplanting to a pot. There is no requirement for rooting hormone because they root so readily.
Lighting
This plant can tolerate brief periods of direct sunshine, like many houseplants and other Monstera species, but it thrives in a very bright area away from direct sunlight.
Which makes sense when you consider that growing in the wildterrestrially at the base of the trees or on them epiphyticallythe Silver Monstera would predominantly receive filtered sunlight through the forest canopy, and periodic direct light as the Sun passes over the sky.
The ideal windows for Northern Hemisphere residents are those that face North and East.
In general, Monstera siltepecana is fairly tolerant of its light needs and can tolerate lower illumination levels, but don’t anticipate it to develop rapidly.
Since I can only fit the tall stakes there, my plant is currently growing in a shadier area that receives an average of about 100 footcandles. Despite this, it spent the most of its growth in a brighter location with about 200 footcandles.
Watering
As a tropical plant, Monstera siltepecana obviously benefits from constant wetness, but because it is also a somewhat epiphytic vine, it will not enjoy being placed on a soggy substrate.
They will be totally saturated by the rain and then dried by the Sun as they grow in the wild as an exposed vine. So you’ll get the best results if you follow the home’s watering schedule.
Your containers must include drainage holes to channel excess water and stop root rot, as is the case with many tropical plants.
There must be a balance in a terrarium, but finding the ideal substrate is only half the struggle (and drainage layers can help).
They may have slightly different watering needs depending on their maturity level, but they should do well in the majority of tropical terrarium arrangements (especially if they have lots of humidity).
Monstera siltepecana Soil Mix
The substrate mix for Monstera siltepecana should be nutrient-rich and have great drainage.
It will probably perform better in a chunkier, well-aerated mix as well because it may be an epiphytic growth. Something capable of allowing those roots to truly breathe
By choosing a mixture with a high percentage of orchid bark and coco coir, you can achieve the necessary water retention while still allowing for plenty of aeration and drainage.
Monstera siltepecana Humidity & Temperature
In all honesty, the temperature and humidity needs of Monstera siltepecana are quite standard.
The typical household circumstances will be adequate to keep most individuals content. Anything above 55F (12C) and 50% humidity is acceptable (although, to be quite honest, I have no idea how you manage if your home is cooler than that).
Being a semi-epiphytic tropical species, it will, of course, value every additional degree and percentage of humidity it can acquire.
A closed terrarium is the greatest approach to truly mimic its native environment and support its growth, but of course I’m prejudiced. Humidifiers and pebble trays can certainly assist.
Growth
The specifics of this plant’s evolution have previously been discussed, so it really depends on you and your preferences.
Do you like the mature leaves’ totally perforated appearance more than the delicate silver vine’s?
This species is likely to remain in its juvenile phase under the majority of terrarium settings, making it quite compact. Which, in all likelihood, will be required to maintain their terrarium-sized size.
On the other hand, Monstera siltepecana may develop into the larger variety with its distinctive holey green leaves up to 5 inches in size if given enough room to grow epiphytically as indoor plants (though they will lose the silver colouring in the process).
You’ll need some patience with this one because, when grown as houseplants, fenestrations can take many years to manifest!
Monstera siltepecana Propagation
The Silver Monstera shares the reputation of being a champion propagator shared by Monsteras.
Cuttings from stems can grow quite quickly. To ensure the cutting has a point to root from, just make sure to cut a piece of stem with at least one leaf and behind a node.
In water, they’ll quickly start to grow roots, at which point you can immediately replant them in a substrate.
Monstera siltepecana Varieties & Similar Plants
The (far rarer) Monstera siltepecana El Salvador is the only significant variation of the Silver Monstera.
Its leaves are what really makes a difference. Monstera siltepecana El Salvador generates larger, more mature leaves considerably more quickly despite having a more compact growth pattern. It is quite beautiful.
Both Monstera dubia and Monstera Peru, two lesser-known climbing species within the larger Monstera genus, resemble M. siltepecana in certain ways (or at least vs your typical Swiss Cheese Plant).
However, the widely variegated silver leaves of Monstera siltepecana are strikingly dissimilar to the puckered emerald leaves of Peru.
Check out the Monstera adansonii, Monstera deliciosa, and the (technically not a Monstera) Mini Monstera if you’re seeking for more Monstera terrarium species with more conventional split-leaves.
A Monstera Siltepecana can grow to what size?
With leaves the size of dinner plates, the monstera siltepecana has the capacity to reach heights of up to eight feet and a width of three feet. All you need to do is provide it with sufficient (but not excessive) water, well-draining soil, indirect sunshine, and occasional fertilizer applications.
Are monstera Siltepecana and Peru the same thing?
Siltepecana has a more silvery luster, while Monstera Peru frequently has a darker green color. Monstera Peru has significantly puckered leaves compared to Silver Monstera, and its leaves are more rounder as opposed to Siltepecana’s more pointed leaves.
What kind of monstera is the priciest?
Swiss cheese plant, sometimes known as variegated Monstera, can get up to $5,000 at auction. On the well-known auction site Trade Me, a rare M. adansonii went for $700 and an M. aurea sold for $3,726.
The Variegated Monstera is currently one of the most popular plants and is adored in New Zealand and other countries. But because of how slowly the plant reproduces, it is quite uncommon.
This plant is known for its sporadic splashes of color in a variety of colors and its irregularly shaped leaves. Numerous plant-related social media influencers adore it because of its distinctiveness. Garden centers only charge $20 for standard green varieties, while the cost of variegated varieties is increasing.
Which Monstera plant is the rarest?
Because of their genetic peculiarities, unusual Monstera plants are not only scarce but also amazing to behold.
These Monsteras are difficult to raise due to their unique genetic makeup. Monstera plants with holes or variegation cannot absorb as much nutrition as a typical Monstera species.
A mutation gives certain variegated Monsteras variegated leaves. Certain Monsteras revert due to a mutation rather than genetic variation.
If the conditions are not ideal, mutations prevent the white or cream hue from eventually being passed on to new leaf growth.
It’s not easy importing plants either, particularly unusual ones. Variegated and holey plants are less likely to survive a lengthy voyage in a dark box because they contain less chlorophyll.
Each country has distinct rules for what plant material is allowed into its country, and shipping expenses pile up.
If you see any of these 22 unique and rare Monstera plants for sale, grab them and head to the register right away!
Monstera obliqua
The most rare Monstera is Monstera obliqua, which has delicate leaves and grows very slowly.
With more holes than actual leaves, Monstera obliqua takes the Swiss cheese plant to an extreme.
The distinctions between Monstera obliqua and Monstera adansonii have a significant impact on the respective price tags for each plant.
Monstera obliqua has papery thin leaves, rounder holes, and a significantly slower growth rate than Monstera adansonii. It is also more uncommon.
Which is preferable for Monstera propagation—soil or water?
Even while Monstera cuttings are generally fairly tolerant of the growing medium, location, and conditions, there are still a few things you may change to boost your chances of success or hasten your progress.
Time of year
It is not necessary to timing when you take a cutting, but keep in mind that winter, when plants are often dormant, may cause your cutting to start more slowly.
Time frame
The first thing to stress is the importance of patience. Some cuttings will immediately take root and quickly produce new leaves. Others may experience a protracted period of inactivity. Spring will frequently revive cuttings that had been dormant.
The best way to determine if your cutting is still in good shape while doing nothing is described below.
Light and warmth
Monstera cuttings thrive in warmth and light, and they will grow the quickest on a warm, sunny windowsill. It has been said that Monstera cuttings should be started with a heat pad, but in my experience, that is not true. A heat pad, however, could perhaps hasten the growth process.
Moisture
If they are in soil, they must also be maintained gently damp but not wet—wet feet are bad for them and will cause them to decay. Once a week, check their soil and, if it feels dry, give it a little water. It is not necessary to place a plastic bag over them, as is occasionally advised.
Size of cutting
More nodes and longer or larger stem sections tend to produce more new growth, including several new stems. Given that Monstera is a vine plant with a single long stem, this is significant. If your cutting produces leaf sprouts on several nodes, each of these will grow into a stem, resulting in bushier growth at a small size.
Growing medium
The benefit of propagating in water in a glass jar is that any new growth is visible right away. However, it is usually advisable to plant larger cuttings directly in the ground if they have leaves and aerial roots.
Water choice
You can use conventional tap water, but if it’s particularly hard, use caution and avoid using water that has been artificially softened. Both rainwater and distilled water are acceptable. If you submerge the majority of the stem part in water, leaves and roots will grow rather happily.
Soil mix
Use a light, freely draining potting compost when young plants and a more hummus-rich mixture as they mature.
Planting stems vertically with just the top inch above the soil is the simplest and most space-efficient approach to pot cuttings in soil.
I was concerned that for new leaves to grow, some stem nodes would need to be above the surface, but that wasn’t the case at all. Under the soil surface, new leaves began to emerge and easily pushed their way to the surface to spread out.
Potting up
If you have many stem cuttings that are housed in the same pot, you should separate them as soon as new growth appears. My own experiences indicate that, if handled correctly, Monstera are fairly resilient and don’t mind being disturbed.
You can bury the entire original stem cutting for a neater appearance rather than having to leave any of it above the soil line.