You can manage this even if all you have is a small piece of wood with a node, also known as a “wet stick.” This can be developed into a plant. I have been dying to give this a shot!
Sphagnum moss, perlite, and your moist stick should be placed in a tiny container to root it. Don’t let the moss become sopping wet. Include the damp stick in the moss with the node facing down. And to preserve humidity, keep a clear plastic bag over it.
As an alternative to utilizing a plastic bag, consider making your own plant propagation box. This technique is my favorite since it allows you to cram a lot of cuttings into a little improvised greenhouse.
Your plant will eventually take root and produce new shoots. I’d keep it in moss up until one complete new leaf emerges, at which point I’d move it to a little pot filled with soil.
Is Monstera Albo a simple plant to grow?
An albo monstera plant can be propagated in a few different methods. Since a cutting is considerably simpler to obtain than a whole plant, there is a good chance that you will be propagating one as well. (And complete plants are PRICEY.)
How is the Monstera Albo node propagated?
It is a little difficult to propagate Monstera Albo since it grows slowly and frequently lacks distinctive variegation.
Cut a healthy stem with at least one node, plant it in a potting media (water or soil), and place it in indirect light for two to three weeks to propagate Monstera albo.
Voila! Your plant will be ready to produce huge, cheese-like leaves in a few weeks. Be aware, though, that not all plants that are propagated yield vibrant variations.
What is the time required to root Monstera Albo?
I just bought a piece of the well-known plant Monstera borsigiana albo variegata. While the rest of the plant’s coloration ranges from light lime to the rich, saturated green of the non-variegated monstera, this plant’s white variegation appears as sectoral and splashed pieces of white, interrupting layers of chlorophyll.
I won’t lie; this isn’t my first time tangoing with a cutting of variegated monstera. It’s the second, and fortunately, I discovered the magic without needing a third! My initial cutting, which I got from an Etsy seller, was a single node cutting without a proper root. The cutting lacked the vitality to produce new roots when the aerial root’s lone nub either dried out before it reached me or perished after being submerged in water. Or perhaps it did, but I hesitated and kept trying to pot it in moss, soil, moss, and water. Up until, of course, it gave up, and a thin coating of dead cells transformed into rot that spread swiftly.
This second one was a three node cutting with two root segments emerging from the stem that I bought from the same etsy vendor (it wasn’t their fault I couldn’t get the thing to root!). It was a cutting that had been considerably more prepared, and by that I mean that the plant was able to withstand any newbie errors I put at it, just like the previous time. This cutting had an easy time thanks to the numerous nodes, the pre-existing root nubs, and the two leaves available for photosynthesis. Here is how the leaves and stem appeared on the first day:
As you can see, on the journey to me, root tips had already begun to sprout. Although those little nubs couldn’t yet absorb water, the growth they produced did!
A week later, these were the roots’ appearance. Since they hadn’t gotten any bigger, I realized that two of the three root tips at the bottom were injured at this point. The third did increase, but barely. The top nub, which can absorb water, expanded in size and had a “fibrous” appearance in the meantime.
Most likely, you may notice that the roots are brown in hue.
It was far too early, and I had added plant food (I use “Grow With Noot” because it has never let me down!). The actual plant food was being left behind as the roots sucked up as much water as they could to rehydrate the stem and leaves. More improvement was observed after I gently scrubbed the roots clean and placed them back in fresh water without food:
On the 25th, twelve days later, the plant had the strength to produce a TON of new roots! It greatly branched out where the damaged root tips were. At this moment, I understood that, at least for me and this particular plant, a second try would be lucky! All I had to do was maintain my composure, be patient, and let it continue to root. I could now add a small amount of my preferred plant food with confidence so that the two fuzzy-looking roots might begin to nourish the plant. It paid off!
On May 14, nearly six weeks into the procedure, this is where I was. When I looked closely, I could see little root tips beginning to branch out in various locations. The roots were easily 1-2 inches long. The thing with roots is that they grow and mature according to the environment in which they are grown. These roots were raised in water and trained to anticipate constant hydration. They often led carefree lives and were frail and skinny. On the other hand, the new nubs were a white space. As carefully as I could, I judged that it was the correct moment to repot the monsteras because they are aroids and require a lot of oxygen exchange at the roots. But I also had to supply the water that the roots already there had become accustomed to.
I settled on a self-watering pot that was cute, white to match the rest of my room design, functional, and informative, with adequate wicking power and a gauge to show me how much water was in the reservoir. This pot has two parts: an inner pot with “feet” that fill with a wicking material and bring water up to my soil mix when the mix becomes dry, and an exterior container that is both attractive and functions as a water reservoir. Although the wicking medium is provided by this specific pot, you may get the same effect using a real wick! Just make sure the wick is in contact with the soil and the water reservoir in the decorative container (loop it through the inner pot).
All I had to do was determine the right soil composition because I had the pot and the assurance that I could get to water. Any suitable aroid mix for a monstera may be found online, but these are the ones I used:
Equal amounts Perlite with Peat Moss (or Pumice). To create the foundation for a well-draining soilless mix, combine these ingredients.
Bark Chips make up 5% of the finished mixture. Your epiphytic plant will be forced to establish stronger roots and will be able to easily exchange air thanks to the disruption of the fine soil with larger chunks and sufficient air spaces. You can use pine bark, which is also used for reptiles, or orchid bark. I always have both on hand, but I’ve found that certain reptile bark is less expensive. Opt for orchid bark if you plan to keep your plant in its pot for at least a year or two. It can resist damp conditions for a lot longer before deteriorating!
Charcoal in the amount of a few teaspoons. Since I maintain aquariums, I always have this material on hand, but you may get horticultural charcoal at a garden center or an internet merchant like Amazon.
Worm Castings in the amount of two tablespoons. I’m talking about worm poop. Pre-digested organic matter progressively fertilizes your soil, ensuring that your plant has access to nutrients for months to come. To reactivate the nutrients in the pot, you can afterwards sprinkle a bit of this item into your soil and possibly delicately mix it into the top.
I need a few more handfuls of bark chips! This was set aside for later layering on top of the pot. It prevents algae growth and keeps bothersome gnats out of the soil.
The cutting was positioned in the pot at the proper height (low enough to keep the root-generating nodes below the soil surface), and the soil mixture was filled in around the roots. I then removed the remaining of the bark pieces from the mix. You can tap the pot a few times to make sure you’re filling it all the way, and you can leave about a half-inch of space at the top to add extra bark chips or to make watering easier. Make sure the pot won’t overflow before you begin pouring because sometimes it takes a moment for the water to seep into the soil.
I gave the plant a preliminary watering over the soil after everything had been set up to make sure it was adequately hydrated. To make sure the roots were initially exposed to the same water, I utilized the water from its glass jar. When the watering gauge indicated “max,” I carefully filled the edge of the pot with freshly mixed water (clean water and a small amount of plant food). Give the soil around 30 minutes to absorb all the water it can or wants to before removing the inner pot and dumping out the additional water if you’re still above the “max” level. Don’t worry too much if you overfill a little. The “max” indicates the level at which your water reservoir will begin to contact your soil medium. If it is higher than this level, any roots at the bottom of the pot will be more susceptible to rotting. You want to avoid root rot at all costs, I assure you.
Look at that monstera now that it has been potted! Bonus: The newest leaf started to come out a week after it was planted!
My cutting is getting ready to become a mature plant now that it has roots and a new leaf. I’m eager to start staking the new growth so that this monstera will eventually develop into a bushy climber along a moss pole!
How is Monstera Albo grown?
The monstera albo will require strong illumination. Put this plant in a spot that gets continuous, filtered indirect light.
The albo’s leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight, therefore avoid doing so. The leaves’ variegated portions are more prone to sunburn.
Your plant can ultimately start to turn back to green if not given enough light.
Because it will begin to live as efficiently as it can by developing more green leaves to assist it absorb more sunlight if it doesn’t acquire the energy it needs to survive.
Additionally, green leaves will typically be larger than those with variegated spots.
How much time does an Albo require to develop?
The Monstera Albo is one of the species that grows the fastest among the variegated variations. In ideal circumstances, an Albo plant that is strong, developed, and established can grow one to two feet per year and produce new leaves every few months.
Although Albo don’t grow nearly as quickly as ordinary Deliciosa, they are nevertheless pleasing to watch as new leaves unfold and can enlarge significantly in just a year. Of course, this assumes that all of their requirements for light, water, nutrients, and humidity are met.
How often do Monstera Albo grow new leaves?
An Albo generates one leaf per growth node monthly on average (in a prime growing environment). Your plant will sprout more leaves as it gets bigger since it will have more growth points.
This could take longer if all of its demands aren’t being addressed, such as if your Albo could definitely use a little more light or fertilizer. However, it’s not an exact science how quickly your Monstera will produce new leaves, so don’t be alarmed if it seems like things aren’t progressing as quickly as you had hoped.
Similar to that, I implore you not to spend your entire waking day gazing carefully at your brand-new Monstera Albo’s node for growth.
LIGHT
Any plant with a pattern often needs a little bit more light than its all-green, non-patterned sibling. These plants genuinely have a wide range of light needs in the natural world.
They will undoubtedly withstand low light, especially the all-green kind, but they will not thrive in excessive darkness. They naturally flourish in the jungle’s understory. Despite the relatively low light levels, they will also climb trees using their numerous aerial roots to find conditions with more light.
Find the brightest window you can for your variegated Monstera deliciosa, but try to limit direct sunlight. Early morning or late afternoon sunshine for a few hours is ideal.
However, avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, especially during the midday, since this could cause the variegated leaves to scorch and turn brown.
All plants benefit from some direct sunlight in the winter if you live somewhere with gloomy, short days as I do in Ohio.
You can definitely complement natural light in your home if there isn’t an appropriate spot for it with a nice grow lamp.
WATERING
Watering your plant thoroughly until water drains out of the drainage holes is often a good idea. Simply repeat after waiting until the top quarter of the potting soil is dry. That’s all there is to it!
Despite being somewhat resistant of harsher circumstances, these plants. They will experience both a wet and a dry season as they grow in nature, making them rather hardy plants.
FERTILIZING
Although these plants are not heavy feeders, for maximum results, they should be fed during the growing season. I apply Dyna-Gro Grow, my go-to fertilizer for indoor plants.
This fertilizer provides all the macro and micronutrients that plants require to thrive and is urea-free, making it less prone to burn your plants.
Your pricey plants are worth it, even though it is a little more expensive than other fertilizers. I use this fertilizer on almost all of my indoor plant species.
Don’t use the full concentration of your fertilizer, regardless of what the label advises. Throughout the growth season, I like to utilize the low end of the range and hydrate it with this mixture each time.
For instance, the Dyna-Gro Grow label instructs you to feed your plants every time you water them by adding 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. To be cautious, I add 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water.
Always take accurate measurements of the water and fertilizer. I reuse a plastic gallon jug and a 1/4 teaspoon measuring scoop to measure the fertilizer.
It’s important to keep in mind that if you measure properly and your fertilizer solution is too concentrated, this could actually burn your more fragile variegated leaves and result in the dreaded crispy, brown edges.
It is a good idea to sometimes water your plant with plain water to flush out any built-up salts in the soil because fertilizer salts can accumulate in the soil over time.
Last but not least, when my plant isn’t growing much, if at all, I withhold all fertilizer over the winter and water it solely with plain water.
SOIL
Although these plants are rather tolerant of their soil, it is best to use 2 to 3 parts of a high-quality potting soil (I prefer using Miracle Gro) and 1 part perlite. Some individuals also like to add some orchid bark to the mixture.
You can make a mixture of dirt, perlite, and bark. Remember that while this mixture is excellent, because it is so chunky and airy, it tends to dry out more quickly. You’ll be loved by your plants.
There is no secret mixture. You will be fine to go as long as the soil is adequately drained and the roots have plenty of air to breathe (additives like perlite and orchid bark make this happen).
Looking for a Monstera deliciosa with several colors? View the assortment of striped Monstera on Etsy (link to Etsy). My preferred one-stop store for purchasing plants is Etsy!
REPOTTING and CLIMBING SUPPORTS
It’s time for a bigger pot when your variegated Monstera’s current one is overflowing with roots and the plant needs more space.
The illustration below shows me repotting a non-variegated Monstera deliciosa, but the principles are the same for your variegated Monstera.
As you can see, the root ball emerged intact despite the pot being rather crowded. It’s time to raise the pot!
I have two repotting advices. The root ball needs to be loosened first. Don’t overwork these roots; instead, slowly work your way around the root ball to somewhat loosen things up. The roots will be encouraged to swell into the new soil as a result.
The size and type of pots are the subject of my next piece of advice. Given that your plant will need support as it grows and becomes top heavy over time, I would absolutely advise getting a heavier pot. The best options are pots made of terra cotta, glazed ceramic, or a heavier alternative.
I often advise going up one pot size in terms of pot size. However, with this plant, I’ll suggest that going up two pot sizes is safe and will save you some time.
For instance, if your variegated Monstera is in a 6 inch pot, move it to an 8 inch pot or, at the maximum, a 10 inch pot. If you choose the larger pot size, make sure you utilize my soil mixture and have your plant growing in the recommended amount of light. It will make it more likely that your soil will dry up in a timely manner. A balance is key in everything.
Giving your plant a climbing support at the same time you move it to a bigger container is a terrific idea. It will spare you from labor and annoyance.
I created my own moss post, which I love, and grew my own Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana albo-variegata from a cutting that a friend gave me.
I created my own moss posts because I couldn’t locate any excellent ones already on the market. Check out my detailed blog post on how to make your own moss post support for your variegated Monstera if you’d like to make one for yourself!
They’re quite durable, and I’ve already constructed a few for other climbing aroids.
You can use alternative supports if you don’t want to create a moss post, which I highly recommend because they’re amazing quality and you’ll adore it. I also created another support by simply tying three bamboo posts together (at the time of repotting is easiest).
Although my plant has significantly expanded since the above shot, I still advise using the biggest bamboo stakes you can locate. As the plant develops, you can use garden twine, hemp twine, or your preferred type of twine to secure the vines to the bamboo.
PROPAGATING
Stem cuttings are the easiest method of propagating these plants. Cuttings of a single node can be made from a single leaf.
Create sure the cutting you make (or buy online) will root well. You must ensure that you are receiving a portion of both the vine and the petiole, not simply the petiole (the part attached to the leaf.)
Here is an illustration of how to cut. Additionally, you must ensure that you have enough vine to incorporate what is known as the “eye.
I’ve shown this point in the image above. Where you can cut is indicated by the two striking red lines. I’ve got an arrow that leads to the “eye. You must include the eye in your cutting because it is where your new vine will sprout.
Your cutting probably already has some aerial roots, too. On the right side of the image, roughly near the middle, you can make out an aerial root.
Insert your cutting directly into the ground or in water to help it take root. Any approach will do. Regardless, you can cover it with a clear plastic bag to boost humidity and prevent withering (if you see drooping).
The increasing humidity will help because your cutting is transpiring water but can’t yet replace it because it has little to no root system.
It’s always a good idea to raise the humidity, especially when propagating. It will lessen the pressure on the cutting and aid to assure success. Once established, these plants are fairly tolerant of typical indoor circumstances, even though they do prefer more humidity (given their habitat in the jungle).
For more efficient ways to do this, see my blog post on raising humidity for indoor plants.
Last but not least, moisten your fresh cutting and keep it somewhat damp if you decide to set it directly into soil to root it. This will promote roots.