How To Propagate A Monstera In Water

The Monstera deliciosa can be easily rooted in water, just as many other plants. In addition to creating a stunning display piece, water propagation is a reasonably simple method of growing numerous new Monsteras with little effort. A few simple tools, a lot of sunshine, and lots of time are all you need.

You must locate a region of the Monstera deliciosa plant that has a node if you want to root it in water. Place the cutting in water in a location with bright, indirect light after using sharp shears to remove the plant beneath the node. After a few weeks, the cutting’s tip should start to sprout roots.

There is much more to this process than what is described above, but this quick summary gives you a decent idea of how simple it is to grow a Monstera in water. The remainder of the essay will cover the specifics of rooting a Monstera in water, what to expect from a cutting that has been propagated in this manner, and some advantages and disadvantages of water propagation.

How much time does a monstera plant need to root in water?

, you should separate each leaf and node on either side of the node/aerial root into independent segments.

The youngest leaf has a node that was still propagation-viable despite not having fully matured (you can kind of see it bumping through).

After you have separated your cuttings, you should remove any outdated sheathing from the leaf stems. When submerged in water for an extended period of time, they can decay and hinder the propagation process.

Your cuttings are now ready to go to their temporary residence. All you need is water and a vessel—I like clear ones.

It’s best to let the cuts to “heal” or dry up a little bit before immersing the cuttings in water. This only takes a little while.

The aerial root can be cut back, but I prefer to leave mine uncut. To make it sit comfortably at the bottom of my vessel, I simply delicately wrap it up.

The remaining stems are then arranged in the vessel, each one being spaced apart to allow for proper root development as well as aesthetic appeal once they are planted in soil. Due to their new root system, there isn’t much room to try to arrange them at that time.

Simply add water to completely cover the roots and ends once they are positioned how you like.

Place it somewhere bright, but not in the sun, and replace the water every three to five days. After roughly 2-3 weeks, roots should start to form!

In addition to new roots, it has also sprouted a huge number of new leaves.

Here is a picture of my very first effort at growing a monstera. I took the above steps, potted the cuttings in soil after around three months, and continued. It has thrived ever since I started watering it once a week!

Your inquiries are addressed:

Yes! Once they are in the proper light and receiving the appropriate amount of water, they are excellent for beginners and very simple to care for.

I plant them in a well-draining pot using ordinary Miracle Grow indoor potting soil. No need for moss or pearls.

Yes, to answer simply. That is a factor in the propagation process. I wouldn’t recommend making excessive or frequent cuts because you run the danger of harming the plant by putting it into shock.

It’s usually time for a new and larger pot when you can see the roots through the dirt or when you notice the growth has significantly halted.

All of my plants receive fertilizer during the growth season (April to September). I will fertilize every other week because I water them all once a week. I prefer liquid fertilizers (plant food) since I can regulate the amount that each plant receives.

In the summer, grocery stores like Kroger or your neighborhood Lowe’s or Home Depot may stock them. It’s always a good idea to check for nearby and online nurseries, such as

Can Monstera grow continuously in water?

Monstera plants, for example, can live in water indefinitely; just make sure to change the water if it becomes cloudy, and you may occasionally top it up with diluted hydroponic fertilizer to replace the nutrients it would normally get from soil.

Which is preferable for Monstera propagation—soil or water?

Many people think that water propagation is the best or even the sole method for growing a new Monstera deliciosa from a cutting. However, a Monstera cutting can be grown in soil without first establishing the roots in water. Both approaches are effective, though many plant owners pick the approach they believe gives the most benefits.

It is simple to grow Monstera deliciosa from seed in soil. Simply take a healthy Monstera cutting with at least one node, and plant it into potting soil with good drainage. By using soil to root Monstera cuttings instead of water, the subsequent step of transferring the rooted cutting into soil is avoided.

People prefer to grow their plants in soil rather than water for a variety of reasons. Some people might discover that employing soil propagation is a simpler process or that their Monstera produces new growth more quickly. Some people have curious cats that won’t leave a water container alone. Additionally, some owners of indoor plants simply want to experiment with new methods of growing this well-liked plant.

Can a Monstera be propagated without a leaf?

A Monstera stem node can grow without a leaf. Only the plant’s food is produced by the leaves. Just make sure it’s in good shape. Even its green skin can provide some nourishment.

Expect no new leaf growth.

Monstera plants cannot develop from a single leaf cutting, unlike certain other plants like Sansevieria (Snake plant) and cactus.

Monstera plants grown without nodes will, regrettably, be unable to produce new leaf growth.

It lacks the tissue needed for cell division and the development of new leaves.

The leaf can survive without a node.

To keep turgid and fresh, the leaf will continue to absorb water by osmosis.

However, it must be situated in the optimal climate to prevent overheating and excessive transpiration, which would cause the leaf to wither.

How long can cuttings stay submerged in water?

Cuttings have been rooted by gardeners for ages in a glass of water set on the windowsill. And occasionally it succeeds. Still, it’s not the ideal method for establishing cuttings.

You see, water-grown cuttings receive an excess of the beneficial element H20. They do require moisture to take root, but they also require oxygen. Additionally, water becomes more and more stagnant while it rests on a windowsill (oxygen-depleted). Additionally, the majority of stem cuttings release their own rooting hormone, which is diluted and less potent when they are submerged in water. A gooey sludge also forms on stems that are submerged in water from dangerous bacteria, and rot-causing fungi, which thrive in oxygen-poor environments, tend to crawl in and penetrate the stem. Water is OK for fast-rooting plants like coleus and begonias, but other cuttings tend to start out well before losing their way. Given the deteriorating status of their surroundings, it makes sense that they may.

Second, individuals frequently leave cuttings in water for far too long, even when they successfully root there. The glass quickly fills up with roots that can’t be transplanted whole, especially fine roots that tend to clump together when removed from the water and break when spread out in a pot. As you plant your newly rooted plant, it may lose half or more of its roots, and each damaged root may cause rot. This is not a good start!

Your best bet is to root your cuttings in a pot or tray filled with some kind of substrate; it simply needs to be sterile enough and well-aerated. Vermiculite, seedling mix, coarse sand, perlite, and potting mix are all suitable options. (Pelargoniums in particular appear to favor sand or perlite.) Fresh garden soil is not a wise choice due to its microbial contamination! Woody cuttings can be given rooting hormone, but green cuttings can simply be placed into a moist substrate. Now is the Season to Take Houseplant Cuttings has more details on establishing cuttings in a terrestrial habitat.

Old habits are hard to break, so it’s up to you if you want to keep rooting cuttings in water. Just be sure to plant them up right away. Transfer them to potting soil as soon as you notice tiny white or yellow nubs beginning to emerge on the stem (these are future roots) so they can begin their lives in a suitable terrestrial environment. It may be necessary to pot up your “cuttings in water” in just 3 or 4 days in some circumstances.

Propagate at the Right Time of Year

The ideal time of year—and perhaps the only time of year—to take cuttings from a Monstera is in the spring.

This is due to the fact that it is emerging from its dormant state from the winter months and beginning its best growing season.

Additionally, it lessens the stress to the mother plant. Propagation can be successful in the early fall, albeit it might go more slowly.

You Can’t Propagate a Monstera Leaf

You cannot develop a new Monstera from a leaf since roots can only sprout from the node and nowhere else on the plant.

I’ve seen some folks who try to reproduce a gigantic, lovely leaf with gorgeous fenestrations, but they simply cut it off at the stem’s base and hope for the best.

It won’t set roots, but it will look lovely in a vase of water. The node must be located; it will resemble an intersection in the stem with a brown bump.

Your Monstera plant might be too young to reproduce if you can’t discover any nodes on it.

After a few weeks, nodes ought to start to emerge if you move it to a more sunny place and increase the humidity a little.

You’ll be on your way to a forest full of magnificent Monsteras if you brush up on my best advice for novice indoor plant maintenance!

Can you submerge aerial roots of Monstera in water?

I’ve seen several sources advise you to put a bowl of water in the planter for your Monster deliciosa and trail its aerial roots in there. According to the theory, this is because aerial roots may actually absorb moisture. However, submerging them in water nonstop won’t likely accomplish much more than cause them to deteriorate and perhaps put your plant in risk.

However, you can frequently spray the aerial roots of your Monstera. Again, there is no scientific evidence that this makes a significant difference, but it won’t hurt. In addition, since these tropical plants prefer their surroundings to be moist, make sure the air humidity is not too low.

Please feel free to leave a comment below if you have any additional queries regarding Monstera aerial roots or if you would want to discuss your own interactions with these magnificent tropical houseplants.

Monstera Leaves Yellowing After Repotting

Although it happens occasionally, after repotting your monstera you should be on the lookout for this. Since drooping is a much more frequent result of shock than yellowing, the problem is frequently with the drainage, soil, or your watering regimen after repotting.

Make sure the dirt in your pot drains properly and isn’t retaining too much water. Even though the drainage system or soil composition may have changed when we repot, we occasionally restart our regular watering schedule. This can result in overwatering!

In contrast, if your newly planted monstera is unintentionally submerged after repotting because your new pot and soil drain more quickly than the previous ones did!

Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of your soil so you can water your plants accordingly. A meter is the ideal tool for determining what’s happening deeper inside the pot and in the root ball, but you may also poke your finger in the soil to determine whether your plant is ready for water.

Incorrect pH levels in your new soil might also cause your leaves to turn yellow. Monsteras thrive in soil with a pH of 5.5-7, which is somewhat alkaline. (To determine whether the pH of your soil is wrong, we advise utilizing a pH meter. The humidity meter we described earlier also measures pH!) You’ll be better off repotting your plant into a more suitable soil if the pH is off.

Keep in mind that any abrupt change to a monstera’s surroundings, such as moving to a new location or house, repotting, or altering its lighting or care regimen, might shock the plant. However, something in the soil is almost always the cause of yellowing leaves. First, check there!

Overwatering Monstera

When a monstera receives too much water, the lower leaves first begin to yellow and, if the problem is not resolved quickly enough, may even develop brown or black blotches.

Examine the soil’s moisture content to establish whether overwatering is the cause of your problem. You may have overwatered your plant if it feels damp or even soggy just below the surface (or on the surface), or if a moisture meter reads 5 or higher more than a week after you watered.

If such is the case, you might need to repot your plant before root rot takes hold in order to prevent it. You could try letting the soil dry out for a few days (and then water with a lighter hand next time).

After addressing an overwatering issue, it can be tempting to start watering your monstera less, but be cautious! The issue is frequently not that you’re giving your plant too much water, but rather that the pot and soil are not draining properly, that you’re watering your plant too frequently and not giving the soil a chance to dry out between waterings, or that your plant isn’t receiving enough light and can’t utilize water effectively as a result. Instead of merely giving your monstera less water, consider these other considerations.

Notably, watering the soil from the bottom rather than the top is another technique to avoid overwatering, particularly if you have a propensity of doing so. Here’s how to use monstera plants to accomplish this.

In the future, always examine the soil of your monstera before watering to be sure it genuinely needs a drink. When a moisture meter reads 3–4 or when the top 2–3 inches of the soil feel dry to the touch, water. You might need to repot your monstera into a pot and potting mix that drain better if it takes longer than two weeks for the soil to dry out.