However, I advise using our premium well-draining potting soil instead of regular indoor potting soil.
With potting mix, fill the pot about 1/41/3 of the way. At this point, if you’re adding a new moss pole, you can bury it in the ground.
Step 4: Remove the monstera from its old pot (you might need help).
Turn the pot over and gently pry the monstera plant out of it to remove it from the container. Try shaking the pot a little bit if it still won’t budge, but don’t tug on the plant. Whatever you do, avoid trying to remove it from the pot immediately! That is an effective approach to break leaves, stems, and roots.
You might wish to enlist the aid of a friend (or perhaps two) if your monstera is particularly enormous. The best method for handling huge plants is to have one person hold the pot while the other supports the roots as they emerge. The top of the plant can be supported during the procedure by a third person if necessary.
Hold onto the moss pole while you unpot your monstera if it has one and it is securely attached.
Step 5: Put the plant in the new pot.
Place the plant in a circle around any newly added stakes. If the roots are too dense for this, carefully dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to fit the pole. If required, use twist ties to secure your plant to the stake.
If you’re moving a monstera that still has its original moss pole, insert the roots and pole into the pot with care. Holding the plant over the new pot, staking the pole securely into the container, and then carefully lowering the roots all work well occasionally.
More potting soil should be added to the spaces around the roots. It should be quite filled, but not overly so. Leave about 2 inches of space at the top before adding another layer of potting soil.
Step 6: Water well.
Fill the drainage holes with filtered water as you go. Add more potting soil if necessary as the dirt may sink a little.
Your monstera should acclimate to its new container fast, but a little droopiness is expected. Simply relocate it to the same location with plenty of direct and indirect sunshine and postpone fertilizing for about 4 weeks.
How is a Monstera potted?
Because it is a tropical jungle plant, the Swiss cheese plant needs rich, nutrient-dense soil that retains moisture without becoming soggy. Peat moss is a fantastic addition to a typical, high-quality potting soil.
A pot with many of drainage holes and a depth deep enough to fit a stout stake should be chosen. The soil mixture should fill the bottom third of the pot. Lightly press the stake into the center. Very tall and mature cheese plants will require assistance from a second person to support the upper sections when being potted.
The original soil line on the plant should be slightly below the location of the new line when the base of the plant is placed inside the container. The area around the aerial roots and base roots should be filled in. Utilizing plant ties, secure the stem to the stake by compacting the potting material around the stake.
What size pot should I use for my Monstera?
It would also be preferable if you avoided planting your Monstera in a pot that is too tiny. Following are some indicators that your Monstera is ready for a new pot:
- The plant topples over or is unstable.
- The leaves are thirsty and drooping.
- The soil no longer retains water or dries up too rapidly.
- You can see roots sticking out of the pot’s bottom.
Living in a pot that is too small can cause root crowding, stunted growth, and underwatering, especially when Monstera is young. Find a bigger pot now!
A seasoned Monstera accepts a little pot-boundness. Keeping your Monstera in the same-sized pot will stop it from growing as quickly once it reaches a large size and you don’t want it to become any bigger.
It will still require attention to prevent becoming very pot-bound. Every year in the early spring, you can trim the roots and top-dress your Monstera with new soil.
How to choose the perfect pot size
When repotting, select a pot with a diameter that is 2 inches (5 cm) greater than the existing size. This is just enough to allow the roots to spread and flourish, but not too much that a too-large pot will cause the soil to get soggy.
Does the height of the pot matter?
The ratio of height to depth is generally not dramatically different between pots. When it comes to the pot’s depth, monsteras are not very choosy.
Make sure the pot for your Monstera has enough depth to prevent a stake or moss pole from tipping over.
Plastic Pots
The typical container for plants purchased from a garden center or plant store is a thin plastic pot. These pots, also referred to as nursery pots, are ideal for growing Monstera but are typically not the most attractive.
Benefits include light weight, drainage holes, and low cost because they are included with the plant.
Plastic pots work best when double-potted with another kind of pot. If you have another pot that doesn’t have drainage holes, this combination is fantastic. For instance, a 4 inch pot of a different type, even one without holes, can fit inside a 3.5 inch plastic nursery pot. In this scenario, the outer pot is referred to as a cache pot.
This makes it simple for you to switch out plants and pots, enjoy the cache pot’s looks, and use the drainage holes in the plastic pot without worrying about water spilling into your furniture. A triple win!
For extremely huge plants, you can even put the nursery pot inside a sizable bag or basket to save money by not having to buy a large pot that matches your decor.
Transparent Plastic Pots
An orchid-growing translucent plastic pot is my absolute favorite form of container for Monstera plants. Sadly, it can be difficult to locate these in stores, but Amazon has a wide selection of them in sizes up to 8 inches! Look for the one that has slots in the sides rather than holes in the bottom. Large roots from Monsteras frequently become stuck in the slotted variety. To view the current pricing, click the image or link.
How should Monsteras be potted?
Monstera plants are possibly the easiest to grow of the usual houseplants. They don’t ask for much in return, but they do reward you with a beautiful setting. It is not difficult to care for Monsteras, and the rewards are worthwhile.
The majority of people put their pots near windows that exclude sunlight because they need bright but indirect light. According to my observations, leaving them outside in the winter when the sun is not too bright also keeps them content.
A well-drained potting mix is preferred by monsteras because it meets their nutritional requirements. Hanging baskets would not be the ideal choice because they prefer to climb up. So that your plants have strong roots and enough room to grow, you should put the soil in a sturdy pot.
Does Monstera like big pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
Wait till at least the top 50% of the soil to be dry during the warmer months of the year. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. If your plants are growing rapidly in Summer you can fertilize every time you water. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!