However, I advise using our premium well-draining potting soil instead of regular indoor potting soil.
With potting mix, fill the pot about 1/41/3 of the way. At this point, if you’re adding a new moss pole, you can bury it in the ground.
Step 4: Remove the monstera from its old pot (you might need help).
Turn the pot over and gently pry the monstera plant out of it to remove it from the container. Try shaking the pot a little bit if it still won’t budge, but don’t tug on the plant. Whatever you do, avoid trying to remove it from the pot immediately! That is an effective approach to break leaves, stems, and roots.
You might wish to enlist the aid of a friend (or perhaps two) if your monstera is particularly enormous. The best method for handling huge plants is to have one person hold the pot while the other supports the roots as they emerge. The top of the plant can be supported during the procedure by a third person if necessary.
Hold onto the moss pole while you unpot your monstera if it has one and it is securely attached.
Step 5: Put the plant in the new pot.
Place the plant in a circle around any newly added stakes. If the roots are too dense for this, carefully dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to fit the pole. If required, use twist ties to secure your plant to the stake.
If you’re moving a monstera that still has its original moss pole, insert the roots and pole into the pot with care. Holding the plant over the new pot, staking the pole securely into the container, and then carefully lowering the roots all work well occasionally.
More potting soil should be added to the spaces around the roots. It should be quite filled, but not overly so. Leave about 2 inches of space at the top before adding another layer of potting soil.
Step 6: Water well.
Fill the drainage holes with filtered water as you go. Add more potting soil if necessary as the dirt may sink a little.
Your monstera should acclimate to its new container fast, but a little droopiness is expected. Simply relocate it to the same location with plenty of direct and indirect sunshine and postpone fertilizing for about 4 weeks.
Clay or Terracotta
The best container for your Monstera when it gets a lot of water and needs to dry out more quickly is unglazed clay or terracotta.
If you have a tendency to overwater your plants or if your Monstera will be kept outside in a wet climate, pick this material.
But take mindful that a phenomenon known as efflorescence can cause your lovely orange terracotta pots to quickly turn white.
Plastic
The most prevalent and affordable sort of pot is plastic. Plastic is a relatively light substance that will aid in retaining moisture.
If you live somewhere dry, if you don’t water your Monstera too often, or if you intend to move it about, pick this material.
Ceramic
The prettiest pots are made of ceramic. There are numerous variations, and they complement any style of interior decoration. The lack of a drainage hole in these pots is a challenge for Monsteras.
While your Monstera is in a plastic nursery pot with drainage inside, ceramic pots work best as a cachepot.
If you don’ mind paying a little more money to give your Monstera a lovely home, pick this material.
Concrete
For very large, mature Monsteras, concrete pots work best because of their weight, which prevents your plant from toppling over.
Concrete pots can be used both inside and outside, although due to their weight, you probably don’t want to move them very frequently. Concrete pots may or may not have drainage holes, just like ceramic pots. Remember this when you shop.
Wood
Wooden pots are available in a huge range of designs and sizes. Unfinished wood will take away more moisture from the soil of your Monstera, similar to terracotta.
Wooden pots are easier to transport when necessary because they are lighter than clay, ceramic, or concrete ones.
Do Monstera plants require large pots?
Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.
Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”
When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?
During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.
How much light does a Monstera need?
Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.
When should I fertilize my Monstera?
Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.
Should I re-pot my Monstera?
The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.
Light
It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.
Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.
Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.
Watering
The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.
Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!
In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.
Fertiliser
As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.
Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.
Repotting
Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.
It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.
Propagation
After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.
The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.
Common Problems
Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.
If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.
The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.
Outdoors Care
When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.
This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!
How should Monsteras be potted?
Monstera plants are possibly the easiest to grow of the usual houseplants. They don’t ask for much in return, but they do reward you with a beautiful setting. It is not difficult to care for Monsteras, and the rewards are worthwhile.
The majority of people put their pots near windows that exclude sunlight because they need bright but indirect light. According to my observations, leaving them outside in the winter when the sun is not too bright also keeps them content.
A well-drained potting mix is preferred by monsteras because it meets their nutritional requirements. Hanging baskets would not be the ideal choice because they prefer to climb up. So that your plants have strong roots and enough room to grow, you should put the soil in a sturdy pot.
When should your Monstera be potted?
You might be asking what you should do to maintain the health of your Monstera deliciosa if you’ve had it for a long. The solution (in part) is to periodically repot it into a bigger container to give it the space it needs to grow. Long-term storage of monsteras in small containers prevents them from ever reaching their “monster potential.”
Every two years, a Monstera deliciosa should be replanted, ideally in the spring as it starts to grow. Overgrown roots, a lack of new growth, and poor water retention are indications that a Monstera needs to be transplanted sooner rather than later.
This article will discuss some of these signals’ meanings and physical characteristics. It will be simpler to determine when a plant is prepared to go up to the next size of planter once you are aware of how a Monstera responds to being left in a pot that is too tiny.
Terracotta pots are preferred by Monsteras?
Your little Monz is prospering, and aren’t you just as proud as can be? Perhaps you didn’t think you were cut out for plant parenthood, but you are.
It might be time to start considering your little guy’s future now that you’ve given it a name, begun saying hello and goodbye to it, and want nothing but the best for it. an expanded pot.
Because monsteras are relatively low-maintenance plants (perhaps the reason the sender selected this plant for you), they can develop swiftly under the correct circumstances.
We know that this may seem like a difficult process if you don’t consider yourself to be naturally green-fingered, but don’t worry—we’ve put up an easy-to-follow guide on re-potting your Monstera.
First off, it’s crucial to understand that Monsteras are actually content to stay a little crammed in their pots; so, you should only repot them if you explicitly want to promote additional development.
Repotting should always be done in the warmer months. However, Monstera are highly tolerant, so as long as repotting occurs in the warmer months they’ll be content little campers. Repotting is typically done around the beginning of spring, when there is fresh leaf growth.
Make sure the new pot you purchase has sufficient drainage while making your selection. It will work with something that has a single, sizable central drainage hole or several holes. Additionally, you can use a porous material, such as terracotta, which can aid in the soil’s ability to dry up a little bit more quickly and thereby help to prevent overwatering or root rot.
The type of soil is not particularly important to monstera plants. They will thrive in practically any common potting soil, but if you’re purchasing it expressly for this endeavor, consider choosing a well-draining variety to reduce the risk of overwatering your Monstera.
Put a layer of potting mix in the bottom of your new pot once you’ve arranged the pot and the potting mix. Remove your Monstera from its current pot gradually. Make sure you’re in a place that can tolerate some dirt since while this is not tough, it can be a little nasty.
Place the majority of the soil that is still sticking to the root systems in your new pot after giving it a gentle shake or crumble. You don’t need to be very delicate with this stage because monstera plants have a fairly strong root system that doesn’t mind being disturbed, but make sure it still feels the love.
Fill your new pot to a few center meters below the rim of the pot with potting soil. Gently compact the soil, keeping in mind that too much compacting will prevent appropriate water runoff.
Give your Monstera a good drink once you’re done and satisfied with how they appear in their new place. Wash the drainage holes with water until you can see the water trickling through them. Make sure to let all the extra water drain so that your tiny plant doesn’t end up with wet feet.
Put it back in an indirect sun location with good lighting and watch the little man flourish in the lovely new home you’ve given him.