How To Plant Monstera Adansonii

Growing young Monstera adansonii from your existing plant is simple. Take a piece of vine with at least two nodes and cut it off (those knobby bits where the leaves form). Plant the cutting in soil after allowing the vine to root in a glass of water. You’ll have a brand-new plant that you can trade at a plant exchange or give to a friend.

How is Monstera adansonii grown?

The Monstera Adansonii thrives in an Aroid mixture with charcoal, perlite, peat moss, and bark that drains well. Maintain a humidity level of at least 60% and bright indirect light for your plant. Water your Adansonii once a week, making sure to keep the potting mix just a little bit moist. The optimum temperature is between 6481 F and (18 to 27 C). Use balanced fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 20-20-20 at half strength.

How should my Monstera be planted?

Use peat moss-rich, high-quality potting soil that drains well when you plant your Monstera in a container with drainage holes. The plants flourish best in dense, nutrient-rich soil; however, they struggle in potting soils that contain compost or bark. Make a few in the bottom of your container if it doesn’t already have any drainage holes. Standing water might cause the roots to decay.

How much light is required by a Monstera plant? Give your Monstera filtered, inconspicuous light rather than direct sunshine, which can burn the leaves. The plant is typically receiving too much sun if the leaves turn yellow.

Use a sheer drape to help filter the light and keep your plant out of the hot, direct sun if you keep it close to a southern or western exposure. Although they won’t produce as many eye-catching leaf perforations as usual and may stretch in the direction of the light source, monsteras can adapt to low light settings.

Rotate the plant once a week for optimal results to ensure even growth. Without it, it might tilt toward the light and become top heavy.

How long does it take for Monstera adansonii to root?

Since it involves the fewest processes, soil propagation is typically the most popular way for plants.

Swiss cheese plant propagation in soil requires more time than in water, but it’s still rather simple.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Pick a sturdy monstera adansonii stem with one or two leaves, at least one node, and robust growth.

Just below the first or second node from the top, trim your plant’s top (the cutting should be about two to four inches long).

To make your cut as clean and smooth as possible, always use something sharp and sterile.

Lay your cuttings on top, node side down, or tamp them down just below the soil’s surface.

Remember that only the brown “nubs”—which need to be slightly below the soil surface or in direct contact with the soil—will produce roots.

You can use standard potting soil from the store, but adding peat moss and perlite to soften the mixture and keep it aerated will yield better results.

Put your cutting in a location where it will receive at least six hours or more of sunlight every day.

Additionally, new roots require air circulation, which is why having a lot of perlite is crucial.

After thoroughly soaking the soil, water the newly planted cuttings again to ensure proper drainage. Keep the soil just a little moist during the first few weeks rather than letting it completely dry out.

Since this plant prefers a small amount of dampness, you can actually cover the surface with a clear bag or plastic wrap to maintain the humidity.

Just be careful to remove it when you water since if you don’t, the soil will become excessively wet and lead to root rot.

How Long Does It Take to Root in Soil?

Your monstera adansonii should be fully rooted and prepared for transfer into its permanent location or another container after roughly three months.

Is it Better to Propagate a Monstera Adansonii in Water or Soil?

In the end, the decision is yours. It just depends on your preferences which method you use to propagate a monstera adansonii; both will yield excellent results.

Since you can actually see what is happening, water propagation is less untidy and provides you a little more peace of mind.

You’ll be able to tell when to plant it since you can observe the roots form and expand while submerged in water.

However, there is still a danger that cuttings that were grown in water would fail after they are planted because the roots might not take to the soil.

For the first several weeks after transferring a cutting from water to soil, the soil needs to be kept reasonably moist to allow for adjustment.

It will not enjoy being dried out because it has spent its entire life in completely moist environments. It will need to be gradually transitioned to soil life.

Since you are inserting a cutting right into the ground, the plant is already used to its new surroundings. But until it’s too late, you can’t keep an eye out for warning signals of possible failure.

However, if your propagation is effective, it will go more quickly and with fewer phases. For this reason, the majority of people favor growing monstera adansoniis in soil.

Can Monstera adansonii be grown in water?

Propagation of Monstera adansonii is not too difficult, like many other vining plants. Both water and soil can be used for this. It won’t grow as much as it would in soil, but you can leave it in water indefinitely if you like.

Monstera adansonii propagation in water

  • Use clean scissors to make a cutting with a few leaves from the mother plant, cutting about 1/4 inch below a node, to propagate Monstera adansonii in water (this means the node is included on the cutting). The new roots will emerge from the nodes.
  • Leave a few inches of stem bare by removing any bottom leaves.
  • Make sure at least one node of the cutting is submerged in the water before placing it in the glass. Inspect the leaves to make sure none are submerged.
  • The cutting should be placed where there is plenty of indirect light.
  • Make careful to replace the water when it becomes murky and to top it off when you notice the level dropping.
  • Within the first week or two, you should notice tiny roots emerging, but it can take a few weeks before you can plant your cutting into soil.
  • Transfer the cutting to its permanent pot once the roots are a few inches long. According to my observations, the roots can be transmitted over a distance of two to three inches.
  • After putting the cutting in its new pot, give it the same attention and watering that you typically would.

Monstera adansonii propagation in soil (method one)

Repeat the first step above in order to spread Monstera adansonii in soil. Here it is once more:

  • Cut a few of leaves off the mother plant using clean scissors, about a quarter-inch below a node (this means the node is included on the cutting). The new roots will emerge from the nodes.
  • Leave a few inches of stem bare by removing any bottom leaves.
  • Now, bury at least one node of the cutting by placing it directly into moistened soil as opposed to submerging it in water. No leaves should be buried.
  • As the roots grow, place the cutting in indirect light that is bright and maintain the soil moist but not damp.
  • To further lock in the advantageous humidity, you can cover the top with a transparent plastic bag. Make careful to take the bag out once day to allow for fresh air.
  • Be patient; it will take at least a few weeks before the cutting’s root system emerges and you see any new growth.
  • You can test the cutting by giving it a very light tug a few weeks later. If you encounter resistance, the roots have established, and you can proceed as you would with any other plant.

Monstera adansonii propagation in soil (method two)

Another way to propagate Monstera adansonii (and other vining plants) is to lay the entire cutting on top of the soil with the nodes all pointing downward into the soil.

Instead of leaving the vine as one continuous vine, you can also break it into smaller portions and do this; just make sure each section has a node.

  • If necessary, temporarily “fasten the vine or its portions to the ground using paper clips or bobby pins.
  • As the roots grow, place the plant in indirect light that is bright and maintain the soil moist but not soggy.

This will also help the nodes that are in contact with the soil finally take root.

Is a moss pole necessary for my Monstera adansonii?

You must provide it with something to climb. The most typical alternative to moss poles is a wooden or metal trellis, although other options include bamboo stakes, bits of wood or bark, metal or wooden trellises, and topiary forms. Or, like I did, you may make your own trellis!

You need a support strategy, such as the ones mentioned above, and something to fasten the stems to. The support you select and the desired aesthetic will both affect how you train it. I want to climb on half of mine and trail on the other.

To secure it to the support, use twine, string, or a tie of some sort. It doesn’t cling on on its own. You might be able to weave it in and out to achieve the desired look, but I’ve always found that adding one or two ties—or even more—allows the stems to face and develop in the desired directions.

There were just two long stems left on my Swiss Cheese Vine at this point. One more will be trained to climb the trellis, and the others will trail.

Pruning is used to achieve this. Tip trimming will work to maintain your plant bushy if you start doing it sooner. You can propagate it using the stem cutting method in water or a light soil mixture and replant it if it is too lanky.

No, although a lot of people do, particularly when using a Monstera delicosa. You might use a less “robust choice” like I did because the Monstera adansonii stems are significantly thinner.

Within the next few months, you’ll receive a care post on this lovely, quickly expanding plant. And now that you know how to train a Monstera adansonii, you can do so!

Can Monstera adansonii be grown easily?

The Swiss cheese plant, also known as Monstera adansonii, is an unusual flowering plant with lovely heart-shaped leaves. It is frequently referred to as Monstera adansonii Swiss cheese, or just swiss cheese plant, because to the numerous oval-shaped holes or fenestrations that are scattered throughout the leaf. This beautiful monstera is exceedingly simple to cultivate and boasts glossy, green leaf surfaces.

The analysis of Adanson’s monstera is detailed below. We’ll provide you advice on how to take care of a stunning, vibrant tropical plant all year long!

Do monstera plants prefer little pots?

Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.

Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”

When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?

During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.

How much light does a Monstera need?

Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.

When should I fertilize my Monstera?

Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.

Should I re-pot my Monstera?

The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.


It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.

Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.

Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.


The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.

Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!

In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.


As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.

Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.


Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.

It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.


After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.

The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.

Common Problems

Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.

If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.

The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.

Outdoors Care

When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.

This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!