How To Keep A Monstera Small

Almost all plants benefit greatly from pruning. It prevents them from expanding too quickly, enables them to concentrate on the healthy parts, and promotes new growth. Pruning is crucial for the general health of your Monstera plant, even if it may seem counterproductive to keeping the plant small to do anything that promotes new development. Your Monstera will remain content and manageable with regular pruning.

You’ll need a pair of well-kept scissors or shears to get started. To ensure that no cuts are contaminated with bacteria, you must sanitize the clippers before making any cuts. I clean my shears using a diluted bleach solution of 1 bleach to 9 water.

Before you begin slicing up your plant, try to make a list of everything you want to remove, bearing in mind how each cut will change the way the plant looks overall. Remove any old, yellow, or brown leaves first, and then trim any healthy pieces that are a little too far out for your taste. Individual leaves or even small pieces of the stem can be clipped back to the plant.

How can I make Monstera smaller?

Owners of Monstera deliciosa adore this plant for its big, glossy leaves, simple maintenance requirements, and the tropical feel it adds to a space. Additionally, they are fantastic for those who want to make a statement with a large plant but don’t want to spend a bunch. When given the proper care, monsteras can grow astonishingly quickly, although they don’t always take on the shape that their owners desire.

How is a Monstera shaped? Your Monstera deliciosa’s shape can be altered by trimming it or altering its surroundings. Pruning is removing a portion of the plant, whereas environmental modifications involve adjusting the plant’s light conditions, container size, or stakes.

I’ll give you a quick summary of why Monsteras develop the way they do and what to anticipate from this plant when allowed to grow organically in the sections below. I’ll also provide you with training advice so you can develop your Monstera in a particular way and some techniques for doing so.

How can I keep my Monstera from growing out of control?

The capacity of Monstera Deliciosa to develop into a statement piece that shines out in any space is one of the things that makes it so appealing as a houseplant. However, not all of us have enough room to allow this plant to reach its full potential. Many individuals complain that Monsteras grow too large and quickly, taking over a space before they realize what is occurring.

Is the monstera out of control? You can inhibit the rate of growth of your Monstera Deliciosa by limiting its access to space, light, and fertilizer. A Monstera can be kept under control by occasional pruning. These indoor plants can spread out and overgrow quickly, so frequent care is necessary to keep them looking their best.

It can seem paradoxical to try to stop a plant from growing because most of us want our other houseplants to flourish and produce as much as possible. However, for those with small apartments or houses, letting a Monstera to its full size isn’t an option. I’ve provided some advice on how to protect your Monstera from growing too quickly below, as well as how to prune it back if necessary.

How do you keep a Monstera the same size?

  • Balance the sun’s and the shade’s intensity. The leaves of Monstera become yellow when exposed to excessive sunlight. The plant will display a condition known as negative phototropism, in which new leaves develop toward the darkness rather than the light, if kept in the dark. (It’s a really cunning trick: in the jungle, nighttime indicates the presence of a taller tree that Monstera can scale to reach the sun.) Indirect sunlight is preferable because this isn’t attainable in a living room.
  • Water Monstera once a week, evenly and moderately. Prior to adding more water, allow the soil to become somewhat dry. Keep in a relatively humid setting.
  • Avoid repotting too frequently and trim regularly by pinching off new growth to control excessive growth.

Scientists have proposed the following theories as to why Monstera leaves have holes: The ability to capture sunlight on the rainforest floor is increased, according to one idea, by this puncture. According to the other theory, it allows tropical downpours to pass through the leaves, preventing harm to the plant. This explains Hurricane Plant, another name for Monstera.

Note that some of our favorite indoor plants are native to the tropics. Check out Tropical Plants 101: A Guide to Planting, Care & Design for more information. More ideas for indoor plants can be found at:

Q:Should I cut small leaves off monstera?

A: You can cut your monstera’s little leaves. Cutting off stems with little leaves would cause your plant to respond by producing new ones. They would expand if they had the resources they required.

Q: Do monstera leaves grow bigger?

A: If monstera leaves have enough light, water, humidity, and nutrients, they can grow larger. Additionally, you can encourage leaf growth by staking your monstera plant rather than propagating it.

Q:Why are my monstera leaves not splitting?

A: If your monster leaves aren’t separating, they could not be receiving enough light. Watch it split as you move it to a more well-lit area.

Why is my Monstera growing more and more?

You’ve probably seen the phrase “leggy” in houseplant forums or when trying to diagnose a problem with your Monstera. Despite how frequently the phrase is used, its definition is rarely given.

A Monstera that is spread out, with scant leaves and long stems, due to inadequate availability to light, is said to be leggy. A leggy Monstera tends to reach towards any available source of light. You may have noticed this in other houseplants as many different plants have the potential to become lanky.

Can the top of my Monstera be cut off?

Fortunately, trimming a monstera is not too difficult. Since they are a hardy plant, they don’t need to be meticulously pruned. In other words, even if you don’t perform a great job, your plant will probably be alright.

You’ll want to remember a few things, though:

1. Put on gloves. When pruning or propagating your monstera, be sure to use protective gloves because the sap is poisonous and can cause severe skin irritation.

2. Use a tidy, sharp instrument. You can avoid crushing or damaging the stem by using sharp pruning shears or a knife to make the cut. Your plant is also shielded from hazardous microorganisms by clean tools. Bacterial diseases can even spread to your other plants and are difficult to treat. (Protect your monstera from insects, fungi, and bacteria with our Houseplant Leaf Armor!)

Instead of slicing the stem off, just give it a good snip or chop while cutting. The cleanest cut will be made as a result.

3. If you can, prune in the spring, especially if you want to promote growth. Growth spurts occur in the spring and summer for the majority of plants, including monstera. Pruning in the spring will yield the best benefits and hasten the recovery of your plant. You should prune in the spring because that is when your cuttings will grow the fastest if you intend to propagate them.

4. Arrange the slices. Starting at the base of the stem, remove any outdated or diseased leaves.

Cut where you want the plant to grow if you are pruning to promote growth. Make a top cut if you want it to grow higher.

When the time comes to actually trim your monstera, keep in mind that pruning promotes growth so choose where to make your cuts. You can safely reduce the plant’s size if you’re pruning to manage your monstera’s size. Just remember that it will eventually need to be done again because it will grow back.

5. Be sure to cut below a node if you’re propagating. Don’t be concerned if you’re only trimming to reduce the size of your plant or get rid of dead leaves. However, if you want to grow your cuttings from them, make sure that they have a node, which is a tiny knob that develops on the stem opposite a leaf. When your cutting begins to grow, these will subsequently develop into aerial roots!

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6. Prevent unintentional proliferation. When you’re done pruning, be careful to dispose of your cuttings in the trash if you’re not going to propagate them because if you place them in a compost pile or somewhere else where they can root in the earth, they’ll start to grow roots.

I’m done now! Don’t be afraid to prune your monstera; it’s an essential yet easy component of care for this plant. This plant develops rapidly and bounces back quickly from pruning. Good fortune!

How can sideward growth of Monstera be prevented?

Right now, Monstera Deliciosa is a stylish and well-liked houseplant, and it’s simple to understand why. The broad, glossy, dark-green leaves give your room a tropical look, and with the correct circumstances, they grow swiftly. In fact, this plant’s potential for growing too large for some homes is one of its only drawbacks. When a Monstera grows large, it often tips over or leans to one side.

How can a Monstera Deliciosa be kept from leaning over? Staking a Monstera Deliciosa with a support like a moss pole, trellis, or garden stakes is the best way to keep it growing upright. These natural climbers can be trained to climb these poles by being connected to them, and they will be supported as they do so.

Although a Monstera won’t be harmed by not growing upright, most people like them to be as straight and tall as possible for aesthetic and spatial reasons. To help you keep your Monstera looking the way you want it to, I’ll go into further depth below why why this occurs in the first place.

Does Monstera require climbing?

What should you do if your Monstera becomes so tall that it begins to topple over? It need a ladder to ascend!

In its native rainforest habitat, monsteras are climbing plants and can be found climbing trees. By use a moss pole or other vertical support, we reproduce this for potted Monsteras. This prevents the large plant from taking over your living room and enables your Monstera to grow upwards toward the light without toppling over and breaking its stem.

How can a small Monstera be made bushier?

A well-draining potting mix that retains some moisture is best for this plant because it prefers to stay damp but shouldn’t stay soggy.

For this plant, a mixture of one part indoor plant potting soil and one part orchid bark, along with some horticultural charcoal, will work nicely.

Fertilizing

Due to its sensitivity, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma should not be overfertilized as this could cause the roots to burn. During the growing season, treat indoor plants with a balanced fertilizer once a month (the spring and summer).

Repotting

To prevent it from becoming rootbound, you might even need to repot it twice a year in some situations. It’s also appropriate to repot if you notice roots emerging from the drainage holes or if growth has dramatically slowed down.

Repot your plant in a pot with appropriate drainage that is the next size larger than the one it is now in. If feasible, it’s ideal to repot plants in the spring and summer when they are actively growing.

I adore terra cotta pots because they dry out more quickly and reduce the possibility of root rot for your plant.

Pruning

With the exception of removing any dead or dying leaves after they may be delicately pulled away from the plant, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma doesn’t require much pruning.

Additionally, vine-growing plants have a propensity to become “leggy,” which is the term for when the vines grow very long and stretched out with fewer leaves. This is typically the result of the plant trying to reach out for more light.

By trimming the vines to promote new development, you can produce a bushier plant. When pruning, cut about a 1/4 inch above a node using clean, sharp scissors (meaning, the node is not included on the cutting).

Climbing

Climbing vine Rhaphidophora tetrasperma. It uses its aerial roots to climb up objects in its native habitat, such as trees, in the wild.

Making use of those aerial roots and giving your plant someplace to climb in your house will therefore help it stay strong and healthy.

You can provide your plant with various climbing aids, such as a moss pole or trellis.

Do monstera plants prefer little pots?

Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.

Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”

When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?

During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.

How much light does a Monstera need?

Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.

When should I fertilize my Monstera?

Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.

Should I re-pot my Monstera?

The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.

Light

It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.

Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.

Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.

Watering

The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.

Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!

In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.

Fertiliser

As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.

Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.

Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.

It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.

Propagation

After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.

The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.

Common Problems

Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.

If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.

The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.

Outdoors Care

When Monstera is outdoors, it is ideal to keep it in a semi-sheltered area. Try to locate a location where they are protected from the wind, frost, and hot afternoon sun. It should be mentioned that Monstera deliciosado does not need warm temperatures or high humidity. Although they will develop more quickly in the warmth, they can stay outside throughout winter in Melbourne. They will benefit much from the morning sun, which is completely OK.

This is the ideal place to start if you’re looking for a plant for your balcony or courtyard. This plant will grow quickly thanks to the additional bright light and the great airflow. Increased airflow around the plant will help to lower the risk of overwatering and the likelihood that viruses may infect the plants. I’ve discovered that in this posture, the leaves will also grow bigger and have more fenestration. You’re welcome to plant one right away in a garden bed!