How To Insert Moss Pole Monstera

When you repot your Monstera, adding a moss pole is the optimum time to do it. This enables you to insert the pole deeply into the pot without causing any root damage.

Selecting your moss pole

Choose a moss pole that is long enough for your plant from the variety of lengths available. The optimal length should provide some room for growth and be equal to the sum of the pot’s height and the stem’s height above the pot. If your plant outgrows the initial pole, you can add a new piece on top because certain moss poles are extendable.

Next, choose your preferred pot type from the pot guide. The container should have just enough width to accommodate the pole and your Monstera’s root system. Choose one that has at least 1/2 inch (1 inch; 12.5 cm) of space around the roots to the pot’s edge on each side.

You can remove your Monstera, add a moss pole, and repot it into the same pot if it was recently replanted and there is still plenty of room in the pot.

Keep a few things in mind as you decide where the pole should go in the pot. To make it easier to knot, try first to position it close to the stem of your Monstera. Second, place it near the back of the pot where the foliage will largely conceal it.

How to repot a Monstera with a moss pole

It’s time to repot once you’ve decided on the position and orientation of the plant and pole! Hold the pole firmly in place in the pot’s preferred placement, all the way to the bottom. Pour the soil mixture around the pole, then add it one to two inches (2.55 cm) deep. Make sure your plant is centered before adding it. After that, add soil mixture to almost completely fill the remaining empty area in the pot.

Avoid compacting the earth to keep the pole in place if you see that it is wobbling somewhat. Watering your newly potted Monstera will assist in settling the soil and securing the pole. As roots envelop the pole, it will likewise get stronger over time.

How to add a moss pole to Monstera without repotting

Although planting a moss pole with your Monstera is usually more stable, adding a support without repotting can still be successful.

Pick a method for adding a support pole to a Monstera that is already potted that will cause the least amount of harm to the roots. This can be a skinny bamboo stick pole, a skinny pole or trellis with a skinny pointed stake at the bottom, or a skinny moss pole.

Place the support softly where you anticipate the presence of the fewest roots. Don’t push through resistance since it might be roots; instead, back off. Attempt again in a different location if the support is not deep enough. You might be better off repotting your Monstera anyway if it is too rootbound to put a support somewhere!

When should I plant Monstera with a moss pole?

Some nurseries, garden centers, and specialized plant shops sell moss poles, or you can create your own at home. By inserting the moss pole into the soil at the plant’s stem’s base, you can add a moss pole to the container holding your monstera. Put enough downward pressure on it so that the dirt holds it in place. Keep in mind that eventually it will be bearing the weight of the monstera! The monstera stem should be attached to the moss pole using twist ties, string, or zip ties such that the plant’s aerial roots or nodes are in touch with the moss. Monstera needs to be manually fastened to the pole until its aerial roots start to grow into the moss as it matures. Anytime is a good time to add a moss pole to your monstera’s pot, but if you want to start out ahead of the game, do it when the plant is young and has only recently started to develop aerial roots.

Does a moss pole need to be damp for my Monstera?

Moss poles not only offer a solid base for the plant but also moisture to the plants.

The plants’ aerial roots will cling to the moss pole and receive water and nutrients from it.

Your plants will be able to take in and release water for their biological activities if your moss pole is consistently damp.

But it is advisable not to constantly moisten the moss pole if plants that dislike excessive humidity are developing in your garden.

Even some plants appreciate extremely low humidity levels. Fungal illnesses can also be caused by excessive dampness.

In general, using a moss pole composed of peat moss is advised so that it can also supply micronutrients to your plant.

How do I get my Monstera to start climbing?

One of the benefits of growing Monstera deliciosa inside for fans is its capacity to develop into a substantial cornerstone for a jungle-themed home. However, that expansion also creates some issues because a Monstera can quickly outgrow its allotted space. Large Monsteras typically grow outward, unlike other common houseplants with an upward, tree-like growth pattern (such the fiddle-leaf fig or rubber plant). Because of this, many people prefer their Monstera deliciosa to climb rather than trail.

How can I encourage Monstera deliciosa to climb? You can encourage your Monstera deliciosa to grow upright by providing a support system, such as a moss pole, coco coir pole, or trellis. This teaches the plant to follow its innate tendency to climb, which may result in a healthier plant with more leaves.

The good news is that Monsteras are designed for ascent. You can get this plant off the ground and out of the way if the correct circumstances and some encouragement are there. I’ll go through some specifics regarding how and why Monsteras are frequently observed climbing on moss poles throughout this article and provide you with advice on teaching this plant to climb.

How is a moss pole used?

An epiphyte is a type of plant that develops on the surface of another plant, frequently a tree, and gets its nutrients and hydration from the surrounding air, water, rain, or accumulated detritus. Many of these plants are vines that climb the tree branches up into the canopy of the jungle. By providing a surface that is simple for the plant to attach to and a medium that includes micronutrients, a moss pole serves to simulate a plant’s natural growing environment.

Root connection is made possible by moss poles, which strengthens the plant (and makes for a more attractive growth habit). When lengthy vines have fully attached to the support, keeping your moss pole damp will give them access to another supply of water because the moss is absorbent.

Many people inquire about how they might encourage the growth of larger leaves and the desired fenestrations in their Monstera and other aroid plant species (the natural splits and windows that occur in Monstera deliciosa and Monstera adansonii at maturity). Climbing aroids like Monstera can be found in the wild growing up massive tree trunks. The plant becomes stronger and can sustain more weight as a result of its adventitious roots’ ability to cling to the tree as it climbs. It also receives more light as it gets closer to the jungle canopy, which supports the growth of bigger leaves.

Large leaves will start to develop after the plant adheres to the support with its adventitious roots because moss poles mimic this growth pattern. As long as your plant makes contact with the moist moss pole at each node.

How to Use a Moss Pole

  • Determine the height of your moss pole. For your plant to have enough of room to climb, the moss pole needs to be taller than its tallest vine.
  • Start by soaking your moss pole in water until it is completely soaked after you have constructed or purchased it. Your plant will cling to the pole easier thanks to the dampness.
  • Place the moss pole as close to the center of the pot and the base of the plant as you can by inserting the wood end into the dirt. When setting up the moss pole, be extra careful not to harm your plants’ main roots!
  • Start wrapping the pole in the plant’s vines. working your way around the pole, securing with twine. As adventitious roots will form at each node of the plant (where the leaves meet the stem), pay close attention to each one and make sure it has good contact with the moss pole.
  • Voila! Observe your plants grow.

ensuring that Raphidophora tetrasperma’s nodes make contact with the support using twine

Moss Pole Maintenance Tips

  • To make sure your plants’ adventitious roots receive water, it is beneficial to spray your moss pole frequently or to pour water down the pole when watering. The majority of aroids will enjoy the increased humidity!
  • You can cut the rope as your plant firmly attaches to the moss pole. To continue training your plants’ growth, keep adding to the pole.
  • You may either allow your plant to vine back down the moss pole to fill out growth when it has outgrown your moss pole, or you can extend it by binding a new one to the old one and repeating the process.
  • When your plant outgrows its pot, replace it in a new container with the same moss pole.
  • When removing a moss pole, exercise extreme caution to avoid injuring the plant’s adventitious roots, which could lead to problems with its health.

Where to Get a Moss Pole

In terms of plant care, moss poles are still somewhat of a niche item, but more and more nurseries are beginning to stock them! Our shops produce moss poles in lengths of 2′ and 3′, and our online store ships 2′ moss poles!

We advise using a strong bamboo stick or other rot-resistant stake, as well as a lot of sphagnum moss, if you want to attempt creating your own moss pole.

Alternatives to Moss Poles

Using moss poles is by no means the only option for plant support! For instance, using pushpins or nails, you can teach a vining plant to climb a wall. If a plant requires a little more support but isn’t a climber, a large piece of wood for larger plants can serve as a useful support and maintain the plant upright.

Thinner, lighter vines like hoyas, which have creeping vines that naturally wrap around supports like these as they grow, are excellent uses for bamboo stakes and ladders as supports. A small metal rod can support and maintain the upright development of smaller anthuriums that need little training.

With a moss pole to climb, Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ will generate more foliage.

We believe that by providing some assistance to your plants, you will be able to ensure their success for years to come.

Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)

Knowing a plant’s origins is crucial for assessing its compatibility for your space and planning the care it will require. Native to desert areas, these plants need a lot of sunlight and loose, quickly draining soil. Strong sunlight and copious humidity will require some shelter for plants from the jungle bottom.

Monstera is a climbing plant endemic to Mexico and Central America’s rainforests that uses aerial roots to clamber up and through the branches of trees. On mature leaves, the peculiar perforations that give it the nickname “Swiss cheese plant” appear. The exact cause of this adaptation is unknown, but it is made possible through a genetically encoded process that is rare in the world of plants and in which cells plan their own demise through programmed cell death.

Growing plants within the house require the support of a moss-covered, climbable pole. If properly cared for, monstera can live for many years and reach heights of well over ten feet.

Incorrect names for Monstera deliciosa include split-leaf philodendron and Philodenron pertusum. These names, which are synonyms for monstera or Monstera deliciosa*, are no longer regarded as acceptable plant names.

Light:

Monsteras should be kept out of direct sunlight and planted in areas with bright, filtered light or light shade from March to September, when they are actively growing. Your plant will be protected from a tropical tree canopy in its natural rainforest by the leaves of the trees outside the window or a sheer curtain. Alternately, a spot in a well-lit area away from a window can do.

The plant need more direct, strong light during the winter. To maintain the health and appealing characteristics of monsteras, which have huge, glossy leaves with well-developed divisions, it is crucial to provide that additional light exposure.

Water and Humidity:

Check back after 15 minutes to remove any water still in the plant’s run-off dish after giving the soil a good thorough watering to make it moist but not soggy. Allow the soil to almost completely dry out between waterings when the plant is actively growing. For ideal humidity, mist the plant and its moss pole every day or give a damp pebble tray. Every week, wash the leaves with warm water.

Temperature:

Normal house temperatures range between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and are fine during the growth season. The relaxation that happens at these colder winter temperatures is beneficial to monsteras. Once the temperature reaches 65 degrees, your plant will start growing again, but this time with more humidity and water.

Ensure that this plant is shielded from sudden changes in temperature caused by open windows, air conditioners, and heating vents.

Re-potting:

Monsteras prefer to be root-bound and can remain in the same pot for years until switching to a pot one size larger when the roots start to protrude past the drain hole. Soil that drains quickly is crucial. The ideal ratio is usually equal parts potting soil, peat, and sand. Replace the top layer of soil every other year after the pot’s maximum capacity is achieved.

What to Watch for:

The aerial roots are crucial for nutrition and climbing. The most beautiful plants have strong aerial roots, so let them alone. Encourage some of these roots to grow into the moss-covered support for your plant as it develops into a vine, leaving the remaining ones exposed so they may take in moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. (You can create your own supporting pole for a monstera by inserting the end of a tube of wrapped plastic netting deep into the soil of the pot.)

It is normal and gradual for the oldest leaves to fall off. If you overwater or underfeed your plants, the leaves may become yellow and drop in greater quantities.

Stretching of the leaf stems and the emergence of stunted leaves without holes may be signs of insufficient light, especially in the winter. Your plant requires energy to grow strong, robust leaves, but it might not be getting enough light or taking a crucial winter break.