How To Grow Monstera On A Moss Pole

Sphagnum moss can be used to create a moss pole by being wrapped around a bamboo stick or PVC pipe. To hold the material in place, twirl a string around. The thickest stem of your Monstera Deliciosa should be tied to the pole many places along the stem using a soft plant tie. To encourage vertical development, prune the stems that are developing more horizontally. The plant will eventually grow vertically as its aerial roots cling to the moss pole over time.

When should I plant Monstera with a moss pole?

This is more of a moment for you to evaluate the situation and make decisions about how to direct your Monstera’s growth going ahead than it is a sign from the plant. If you are repotting your Monstera, this is the ideal moment to incorporate a moss pole.

Typically, Monsteras need to be replanted every one to two years into a container that is one size bigger than the one they were in before. But now is the moment to transfer it to a larger pot if you see that you need to water it regularly or that the roots are sprouting out of the drainage holes.

Even if you aren’t presently exhibiting the aforementioned symptoms, I would advise you to add a moss pole when you are repotting your Monstera. Because you can see the roots and avoid severing them when securing the pole in the soil, adding a moss pole to a fresh pot is considerably simpler.

Should I soak the moss pole?

Try to attach it as soon as possible while the plant is still young. However, you may still do it with an established plant.

Before putting the moss pole into the pot, you should first soak it in water until it is completely saturated. This, in my opinion, makes it much easier to tie a plant to a moss pole.

1. To ensure that your pole balances when your plant matures, it is advisable to place it in the center of your pot. Make sure the pole is buried in the ground at a depth sufficient for stability, but not so deep as to damage the roots.

2. Next, you begin surrounding the pole with the longest vine.

3. To assist fasten the vines to the pole, use velcro plant strings or plant tie strips. To make sure my aerial roots don’t protrude, I like to tuck them within the pole.

The fact that these plant ties are available in green or black is their finest feature. The ties will better mix in with your plant’s vines and pole as a result. So no one will be aware of your technique for producing strong, large leaves.

Plant TIP: Make sure the root nodes, which are where the stem and leaves converge, are fastened to or tucked within the pole. In order to eliminate the need for ties, this helps train the adventitious roots to cling to the pole on their own. Once your plant grows, you can eventually take the ties off.

Choose a pole length that is longer than your longest vine when deciding on its length. You won’t ever have to worry about your plant outgrowing the pole, so you may keep it for a longer time and let it grow whatever long it wants.

If you need to, you could add another moss pole on top to make the moss pole longer.

How do I get my Monstera to start climbing?

One of the benefits of growing Monstera deliciosa inside for fans is its capacity to develop into a substantial cornerstone for a jungle-themed home. However, that expansion also creates some issues because a Monstera can quickly outgrow its allotted space. Large Monsteras typically grow outward, unlike other common houseplants with an upward, tree-like growth pattern (such the fiddle-leaf fig or rubber plant). Because of this, many people prefer their Monstera deliciosa to climb rather than trail.

How can I encourage Monstera deliciosa to climb? You can encourage your Monstera deliciosa to grow upright by providing a support system, such as a moss pole, coco coir pole, or trellis. This teaches the plant to follow its innate tendency to climb, which may result in a healthier plant with more leaves.

The good news is that Monsteras are designed for ascent. You can get this plant off the ground and out of the way if the correct circumstances and some encouragement are there. I’ll go through some specifics regarding how and why Monsteras are frequently observed climbing on moss poles throughout this article and provide you with advice on teaching this plant to climb.

Are Monsteras misted?

Monstera Deliciosas may tolerate low to high levels of indirect, dappled light. Their leaves may burn and scorch if exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time. Low light conditions will inhibit growth.

Make sure your Variegated Monstera Deliciosa gets enough of bright indirect light if you have one.

Water

You should spritz your Monstera Deliciosa frequently and water it once a week. In the winter, when you may only need to water your plant every two weeks, let the soil dry up in between waterings.

Humidity

Because Monstera Deliciosa prefers a humid atmosphere, we advise often wetting its leaves. To boost the humidity of the air around your plant, you might also place it close to other plants.

Additional care information

From a stem and leaf cutting, you may quickly reproduce your monstera deliciosa in water. Make sure to make the cut just below a stem node.

The Monstera Deliciosa’s huge leaves are readily covered in dust over time. Use a moist towel to routinely wipe them.

Troubleshooting

Yellowing leaves may indicate that your Monstera Deliciosa has experienced moisture shock or has received too much light.

Browning leaves are a sign that your plant has been receiving insufficient light or has been exposed to low humidity.

Do I need to secure my Monstera?

There are several advantages to supporting your Monstera’s posture with a stake or moss poll. As epiphytes, or plants that grow vertically in nature by climbing on the other plants surrounding them, Monsteras do so in their natural habitats. Yes, they survive with a little assistance from their friends.

When your Monstera is housed in a pot, it can be more difficult to adapt this epiphytic tendency, but stakes are the ideal “dupe” for other plants. Your Monstera will maintain a beautiful posture that maintains them looking their best by clinging to its stake, reaching upward, and holding its heaviest stems straight. Aerial roots are a favorite feature of monsteras; avoid cutting them! These roots are designed to support the bulky base of your plant, but staking the plant helps to lighten their burden, allowing you to tuck them into the soil of your Monstera and let them rest invisibly.

What sort of groundwork is ideal for Monstera?

Use peat moss-rich, high-quality potting soil that drains well when you plant your Monstera in a container with drainage holes. The plants flourish best in dense, nutrient-rich soil; however, they struggle in potting soils that contain compost or bark. Make a few in the bottom of your container if it doesn’t already have any drainage holes. Standing water might cause the roots to decay.

How much light is required by a Monstera plant? Give your Monstera filtered, inconspicuous light rather than direct sunshine, which can burn the leaves. The plant is typically receiving too much sun if the leaves turn yellow.

Use a sheer drape to help filter the light and keep your plant out of the hot, direct sun if you keep it close to a southern or western exposure. Although they won’t produce as many eye-catching leaf perforations as usual and may stretch in the direction of the light source, monsteras can adapt to low light settings.

Rotate the plant once a week for optimal results to ensure even growth. Without it, it might tilt toward the light and become top heavy.

How do you maintain Monstera’s balance?

Right now, Monstera Deliciosa is a stylish and well-liked houseplant, and it’s simple to understand why. The room’s broad, glossy, dark-green leaves have a tropical feel to it, and under the correct circumstances, they develop swiftly. In fact, this plant’s potential for growing too large for some homes is one of its only drawbacks. When a Monstera grows large, it often tips over or leans to one side.

How can a Monstera Deliciosa be kept from leaning over? Staking a Monstera Deliciosa with a support like a moss pole, trellis, or garden stakes is the best way to keep it growing upright. These natural climbers can be trained to climb these poles by being connected to them, and they will be supported as they do so.

Although a Monstera won’t be harmed by not growing upright, most people like them to be as straight and tall as possible for aesthetic and spatial reasons. To help you keep your Monstera looking the way you want it to, I’ll go into further depth below why why this occurs in the first place.

How can aerial roots monstera be cultivated?

Taking proper care of your monstera plant as a whole is the best approach to promote the development of robust, healthy aerial roots.

Give your monstera a lot of direct, bright light, either from a window that gets plenty of light or from a grow lamp that is left on for at least eight hours every day. Avoid direct sunlight since it can burn your leaves!

Your monstera should be planted in a pot with drainage holes and a peaty potting soil that is easy to drain. (For the best combination of drainage, water retention, nutritional balance, and appropriate pH levels, use our Premium Monstera Potting Mix.)

Light

Mini monsteras enjoy bright, indirect sunshine just like the majority of tropical plants, including monsteras. This indicates not directly in the sun’s beams, but next to or in a very bright window. Typically, an east-facing window is the ideal.

When the top two inches of soil are dry, add water to the soil until it begins to drip out the bottom of the pot since mini monsteras prefer a modest amount of water. then right away empty the drainage pan.

It’s crucial to avoid overwatering because it can promote root rot. Repotting and our Root Rot Treatment can cure this disease, but if you don’t catch it in time, it can kill a plant.

Never let the soil get completely dry, on the opposite end of the watering range, or you’ll have a dried-out, perhaps dead micro monstera on your hands!

Soil and Potting

To prevent your mini monstera’s roots from sitting in water (hello, root rot! ), choose a soil and container that drain properly.

Consider adding some orchid bark to your indoor potting mix and using a plastic or ceramic container with one or more drainage holes.

Fertilizer

In the spring and summer, Rhaphidophora tetrasperma grows quickly, so it’s crucial to fertilize it many times per month with liquid fertilizer mixed in with its water.

Because I can use Indoor Plant Food for ALL of my indoor plants, even micro monsteras, I use it every week in my watering can. It removes all of the uncertainty about fertilizing schedules because it is intended to be applied with each watering. There’s no easier way to put it than that!

Climbing

To give the aerial roots of mini monsteras something to hold onto when climbing, place a moss pole or trellis in or close to the container. A small or tall moss pole can be bought, or you can even create your own.

Temperature and Humidity

These plants perform well in conditions resembling those of their native environments in Thailand and Malaysia, however they are a little more adaptable to temperature and humidity than monstera deliciosa.

The ideal temperatures for mini monsteras are between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (aka average room temperatures). They are able to handle typical indoor humidity levels, but they value the added moisture from a humidifier or pebble tray.

(To set up a pebble tray, just add water and pebbles to a shallow tray, then place your potted plant on top so that the roots and soil are not in contact with the water.)

A Fun New Plant for Monstera Lovers

Try the small monstera if you enjoy other monstera variations! It’s the ideal addition to your collection and is becoming accessible (and inexpensive). They are available online and in certain local nurseries.

Are all climbers of monstera?

However, they may thrive in low-light situations and grow best in bright, indirect light. Monstera can also thrive in bright artificial light. However, leaves will grow more slowly and seldom in the absence of intense light. Low-light monstera may also have smaller leaves without the distinctive holes that indoor gardeners adore.

To avoid slowing growth, choose a location for your monstera display where temps don’t fall below the high 60s.

Avoid making substantial temperature changes in the area where your monstera plant grows because this might cause a lot of leaf drop while the plant gets used to its new environment.

Since monstera plants are epiphytic vines, they are climbers as opposed to trailers. Monstera should be planted in a container with a moss-filled pole, a piece of wood, or some type of trellis so that they can climb it with their stems, which can grow up to six feet or longer, rather than a hanging basket. The plant is supported by long, hanging aerial roots that the stems transmit down.

Does Monstera prefer large pots?

Unquestionably, one of the most well-known indoor plants in history is the monstera deliciosa. The characteristic leaves are frequently seen in movies, video games, and printed on at least three pillows at your neighborhood home goods store. In addition to being a true fashion classic, it is also a very resilient and adaptable plant. We delve into the requirements for caring for this plant in this article.

Other names for Monstera deliciosa include “fruit salad plant,” “elephant ear plant,” and “swiss cheese plant.”

When should I water my Monstera deliciosa?

During the warmer months of the year, wait until the soil has dried to at least 50% of its depth. Allow the soil to totally dry up before watering in the winter.

How much light does a Monstera need?

Although they can withstand medium to low light, monstera prefer bright light. A decent test is a room with enough light to read a book by. They will develop more quickly and larger the more light they receive.

When should I fertilize my Monstera?

Mid-Spring to mid-Autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer every other time you water. You can fertilize your plants every time you water them if they are growing quickly in the summer. Fertilize not during the winter.

Should I re-pot my Monstera?

The majority of indoor plants are content to grow in small containers and will even profit from being somewhat root-bound. There is never a rush to increase the size of your pot until all the soil has had roots grow through it, just an inch or two.

It is preferable to place your Monstera in the brightest area possible when it is cultivated indoors. A excellent place to start is with enough natural light to comfortably read a book. Make sure your plant doesn’t receive too much afternoon sun in the summer to avoid burning it. Even while a location may be ideal throughout the year, on a day with a temperature of +40°C, the heat and light may be too much for the plant to take.

Monstera may thrive in low-light conditions, however the smaller the leaves are, the less fenestration there will be to grow.

Fenestration refers to the distinctive holes that make a monstera leaf so simple to recognize. Faster growth, bigger leaves, and more fenestration will occur as a result of increased light levels.

Watering

The majority of indoor plants are vulnerable to overwatering. During warm weather, we advise you to water this plant just after the top half of the soil has dried out. Try to let the soil dry up almost completely over the winter.

Depending on the time of year, the location of the plant, and the flow of air, this will take two to four weeks. Please be aware that this is the shortest length of time you can wait; especially in the winter, you can wait much longer!

In severe circumstances, overwatering this plant can cause root rot, darkened leaf tips, and even plant death. However, if you skip watering for a week or two, the plant may not even notice or may simply wilt, giving you a very clear indication that it’s time to water.

As a plant with a potential for rapid growth, monstera will undoubtedly profit from routine applications of liquid fertilizer. Every second cycle of watering throughout the warmer months of the year—spring and summer—can include some fertilizer. If your plant continues to develop during the winter, you could consider reducing the intensity of your fertilizer and using it less frequently.

Although products made from seaweed, like Seasol, are low in the essential elements for development (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), they are excellent soil conditioners and helpful for avoiding hydrophobia and pot shock.

Repotting

Monstera enjoy being crammed within their containers. Regardless of the size of the pot, they will grow enormous. Your monstera won’t grow any bigger or faster if you put it in a big pot; most likely, all the extra damp soil will cause root rot, or your monstera will focus more energy on growing roots than leaves. It is preferable to concentrate more on a pot that complements your aesthetic while repotting and to use that pot for a few years.

It’s better to repot during the warmer months of the year if you do decide to do so. Be cautious to plant it in a container with sufficient drainage (at least one big drainage hole). The soil may dry up a little bit quicker if you choose to use a porous terracotta pot, which can be quite beneficial in preventing over-watering. A premium potting mix is an excellent place to start, but a cacti/succulent mix or even chunky orchid mix works great to help with drainage. Monstera flourish in a well-draining potting mix.

Propagation

After a year or two, Monstera deliciosa’s size as a vine can become painfully obvious. This plant will spread across the ground and climb trees in the wild. You might need to stake the plant as it gets bigger in order to sustain this sprawling epiphyte and keep it standing erect. You can take a clip from the lead portion of the stem if you think the plant is getting too long. This will stop the stem’s growth and promote new shoots to emerge from the lowest parts of the plant.

The cutting can either be submerged in water or planted in wet ground. A node should be present on the stem of your stem cutting for about one inch. If the cutting already has an aerial root, it will grow considerably more quickly. Don’t worry if your cutting loses its leaves; they are not at all necessary because the stems can photosynthesise.

Common Problems

Overwatering is the most frequent problem that you may encounter. This will result in wilting, root rot, blackened leaf tips, and frequently white mold on the soil. Check to see if your pot is emptying and if you are watering excessively. Once it is dried, stop watering it again! In extreme circumstances, you might replace the moist soil with dry soil or move the plant outside into a covered area to hasten the drying process. Simply wait. Although this plant is unbreakable, it will take some time. A lot of good airflow will be quite beneficial.

If your plant isn’t getting enough light, it will grow long, lanky, and floppy to help it reach a potential light source. The internodes will be longer and the leaves will be more sparse. Stake the plant and/or relocate it to a more sunny area. It must be a permanent shift; periodically moving the plant into a light area would not work.

The most frequent pests are mealybugs, scale, and gnat flies, but I have never found M. deliciosa to be particularly vulnerable to insect invasion. The best course of action is to manually remove them to halt the spread right away, and then obtain a solution like neem oil, which will eradicate a variety of unpleasant creatures while being extremely safe and non-toxic.