How To Care For A Variegated Monstera

PRO HINT: Although Monstera are normally sluggish growers, you can stimulate new growth by fertilizing them with organic fertilizer once a month in the spring and summer.

A hardy and simple-to-care-for species of flowering plant native to southern Mexico and Panama called Monstera deliciosa is also known as the “Due to the distinctive formation of ridges and holes on its more mature leaves, Swiss cheese plant is so named. The “The fruit that the plant produces in its native environment, which resembles a pineapple, gives the plant its deliciosa moniker.

Similar maintenance is needed for the variegated Monstera as for the solid Monstera deliciosa. The key distinction is that the variegated Monstera leaves’ white section cannot absorb light, making photosynthetic activity twice as difficult for the plant. Low light levels are therefore undesirable, and to keep your variegated Monstera happy, you should keep it in bright ambient light.

A warm, humid environment with plenty of water and soft sunlight are preferred by monsteras. Place your Monstera in a location that can receive medium to brilliant indirect light and away from vents and drafts where it would be exposed to dry air.

We offer a guide on how to measure light in your space if you are unclear about the lighting setup in your house or place of business.

As climbing plants, monsteras enjoy climbing up vertical surfaces. Use pegs or moss sticks to direct your Monstera’s growth upward if you prefer it to grow tall rather than wide.


Any plant with a pattern often needs a little bit more light than its all-green, non-patterned sibling. These plants genuinely have a wide range of light needs in the natural world.

They will undoubtedly withstand low light, especially the all-green kind, but they will not thrive in excessive darkness. They naturally flourish in the jungle’s understory. Despite the relatively low light levels, they will also climb trees using their numerous aerial roots to find conditions with more light.

Find the brightest window you can for your variegated Monstera deliciosa, but try to limit direct sunlight. Early morning or late afternoon sunshine for a few hours is ideal.

However, avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, especially during the midday, since this could cause the variegated leaves to scorch and turn brown.

All plants benefit from some direct sunlight in the winter if you live somewhere with gloomy, short days as I do in Ohio.

You can definitely complement natural light in your home if there isn’t an appropriate spot for it with a nice grow lamp.


Watering your plant thoroughly until water drains out of the drainage holes is often a good idea. Simply repeat after waiting until the top quarter of the potting soil is dry. That’s all there is to it!

Despite being somewhat resistant of harsher circumstances, these plants. They will experience both a wet and a dry season as they grow in nature, making them rather hardy plants.


Although these plants are not heavy feeders, for maximum results, they should be fed during the growing season. I apply Dyna-Gro Grow, my go-to fertilizer for indoor plants.

This fertilizer provides all the macro and micronutrients that plants require to thrive and is urea-free, making it less prone to burn your plants.

Your pricey plants are worth it, even though it is a little more expensive than other fertilizers. I use this fertilizer on almost all of my indoor plant species.

Don’t use the full concentration of your fertilizer, regardless of what the label advises. Throughout the growth season, I like to utilize the low end of the range and hydrate it with this mixture each time.

For instance, the Dyna-Gro Grow label instructs you to feed your plants every time you water them by adding 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. To be cautious, I add 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water.

Always take accurate measurements of the water and fertilizer. I reuse a plastic gallon jug and a 1/4 teaspoon measuring scoop to measure the fertilizer.

It’s important to keep in mind that if you measure properly and your fertilizer solution is too concentrated, this could actually burn your more fragile variegated leaves and result in the dreaded crispy, brown edges.

It is a good idea to sometimes water your plant with plain water to flush out any built-up salts in the soil because fertilizer salts can accumulate in the soil over time.

Last but not least, when my plant isn’t growing much, if at all, I withhold all fertilizer over the winter and water it solely with plain water.


Although these plants are rather tolerant of their soil, it is best to use 2 to 3 parts of a high-quality potting soil (I prefer using Miracle Gro) and 1 part perlite. Some individuals also like to add some orchid bark to the mixture.

You can make a mixture of dirt, perlite, and bark. Remember that while this mixture is excellent, because it is so chunky and airy, it tends to dry out more quickly. You’ll be loved by your plants.

There is no secret mixture. You will be fine to go as long as the soil is adequately drained and the roots have plenty of air to breathe (additives like perlite and orchid bark make this happen).

Looking for a Monstera deliciosa with several colors? View the assortment of striped Monstera on Etsy (link to Etsy). My preferred one-stop store for purchasing plants is Etsy!


It’s time for a bigger pot when your variegated Monstera’s current one is overflowing with roots and the plant needs more space.

The illustration below shows me repotting a non-variegated Monstera deliciosa, but the principles are the same for your variegated Monstera.

As you can see, the root ball emerged intact despite the pot being rather crowded. It’s time to raise the pot!

I have two repotting advices. The root ball needs to be loosened first. Don’t overwork these roots; instead, slowly work your way around the root ball to somewhat loosen things up. The roots will be encouraged to swell into the new soil as a result.

The size and type of pots are the subject of my next piece of advice. Given that your plant will need support as it grows and becomes top heavy over time, I would absolutely advise getting a heavier pot. The best options are pots made of terra cotta, glazed ceramic, or a heavier alternative.

I often advise going up one pot size in terms of pot size. However, with this plant, I’ll suggest that going up two pot sizes is safe and will save you some time.

For instance, if your variegated Monstera is in a 6 inch pot, move it to an 8 inch pot or, at the maximum, a 10 inch pot. If you choose the larger pot size, make sure you utilize my soil mixture and have your plant growing in the recommended amount of light. It will make it more likely that your soil will dry up in a timely manner. A balance is key in everything.

Giving your plant a climbing support at the same time you move it to a bigger container is a terrific idea. It will spare you from labor and annoyance.

I created my own moss post, which I love, and grew my own Monstera deliciosa var. borsigiana albo-variegata from a cutting that a friend gave me.

I created my own moss posts because I couldn’t locate any excellent ones already on the market. Check out my detailed blog post on how to make your own moss post support for your variegated Monstera if you’d like to make one for yourself!

They’re quite durable, and I’ve already constructed a few for other climbing aroids.

You can use alternative supports if you don’t want to create a moss post, which I highly recommend because they’re amazing quality and you’ll adore it. I also created another support by simply tying three bamboo posts together (at the time of repotting is easiest).

Although my plant has significantly expanded since the above shot, I still advise using the biggest bamboo stakes you can locate. As the plant develops, you can use garden twine, hemp twine, or your preferred type of twine to secure the vines to the bamboo.


Stem cuttings are the easiest method of propagating these plants. Cuttings of a single node can be made from a single leaf.

Create sure the cutting you make (or buy online) will root well. You must ensure that you are receiving a portion of both the vine and the petiole, not simply the petiole (the part attached to the leaf.)

Here is an illustration of how to cut. Additionally, you must ensure that you have enough vine to incorporate what is known as the “eye.

I’ve shown this point in the image above. Where you can cut is indicated by the two striking red lines. I’ve got an arrow that leads to the “eye. You must include the eye in your cutting because it is where your new vine will sprout.

Your cutting probably already has some aerial roots, too. On the right side of the image, roughly near the middle, you can make out an aerial root.

Insert your cutting directly into the ground or in water to help it take root. Any approach will do. Regardless, you can cover it with a clear plastic bag to boost humidity and prevent withering (if you see drooping).

The increasing humidity will help because your cutting is transpiring water but can’t yet replace it because it has little to no root system.

It’s always a good idea to raise the humidity, especially when propagating. It will lessen the pressure on the cutting and aid to assure success. Once established, these plants are fairly tolerant of typical indoor circumstances, even though they do prefer more humidity (given their habitat in the jungle).

For more efficient ways to do this, see my blog post on raising humidity for indoor plants.

Last but not least, moisten your fresh cutting and keep it somewhat damp if you decide to set it directly into soil to root it. This will promote roots.


Growing the non-variegated counterpart is easier than caring for a variegated plant.

Despite the fact that they are undoubtedly beautiful and lovely, they won’t last for very long because they lack chlorophyll. These leaves will eventually wither away, but while they do, you can still enjoy them now and then!

Therefore, to encourage leaves with more even variegation, you will need to perform some maintenance and trimming on your variegated Monstera.

This is undesirable, and you’ll need to prune your plant if it starts to produce only green leaves or only white leaves.

Start visually examining your vine. Work your way down the vine, starting at the top. Trim the vine to a leaf with beautiful, balanced variegation—one that is neither too white nor too green! Make sure you can see the developing eye when you trim your vine (like I showed earlier on in this article).

The plant will get healthier and more attractive as a result of the developing eye, which should result in a vine with more even variegation.

The variegation on your variegated Syngonium and Philodendron Pink Princess can both be managed using the exact same method.


According to the ASPCA, monstera deliciosa is poisonous to both cats and dogs owing to calcium oxalate.

I sincerely hope this blog post was helpful to you, and I wish you luck with your cherished plants!

How much light do variegated Monsteras require?

Make sure your Monstera plant receives adequate light if you want it to develop fenestrations and grow. It won’t continue to grow and may even wilt if it doesn’t get enough artificial or natural light.

10 to 12 hours a day of bright, indirect lighting are necessary for monstera to flourish. Grow lights should be used to provide light for your Monstera plant during the winter months when there is little sunlight or when the space is too gloomy.

This article will help you choose the best grow lights for your Monstera plant so you can maintain its health and happiness by advising you on what to look for when purchasing a grow light.

How can I increase the variety of my Monstera?

Place your indoor plants in a location with greater light to encourage additional variegation in already variegated plants. More green leaves are produced the darker the stain. Your variegated plant will produce more variegation if it is placed close to a window or an artificial light source.

It is known that pruning striped plants to make them more striped may aid in boosting striped development in subsequent growth. For instance, if the variegated leaf your Monstera plant produces is entirely green, you can prune it back to the last variegated leaf in the hopes that the next growth will become even more variegated.

Even while variegation is typically desired, it is possible to have too much of it. Leaves that are completely white have very little to no chlorophyll.

If you don’t remove these leaves, your plant may keep growing in this pattern and eventually lose the ability to support itself because chlorophyll-containing green cells aren’t properly photosynthesising. As a result, you can remove all of the pure white leaves save for the final variegated leaf with green portions, hoping that the next growth will be different.

They do, indeed. Variegated plants have less chlorophyll, which reduces the amount of photosynthesis-capable surface area. They consequently require a lot more light than typical plants and develop much more slowly. The white sections of the leaves are more sensitive to the sun than the green ones, therefore be aware that they are also more likely to get sunburned.

Yes, forcing variation is conceivable in some circumstances. A nice illustration is the now-disfavored Philodendron Pink Congo. It is thought that chemicals were used to induce the growth of this plant.

It is claimed to only last for 12 to 24 months before completely turning green, however during fresh growth, it is said to generate bubble gum pink leaves. Additionally, it is often possible to duplicate the now-desired variegation if a specific virus is known to produce a particular type of variegation.

eBay is the best place to look for Monstera Deliciosa Variegata. There is a solid reason why many vendors from all over the world put their variegated plants there. They frequently go for fairly high prices. Facebook Groups, plant websites, and Instagram plant accounts are further resources.

Discover a beautiful indoor plant that looks amazing even without variegation. Its name is Begonia maculata, and it features red backs and white dots on the upper side of the leaf.