- snips for gardening or wire cutters for ties If you try to cut wire with normal scissors, they will become quite blunt very quickly.)
- green ties
- wooden chopstick or peg (optional)
*Depending on the plant, I have a few options in my plant care kit, including: soft ties, which are thicker with a wire core for flexibility; regular (thin) plant wire; these elasticated bands with “arrows” that I bought at a stationery store; and a velcro roll, which is adjustable and can be cut to size.
Because my grandparents often used old tights (pantyhose) cut into strips for their tomatoes and runner beans, I frequently use them for my outside plants. My nan’s old “pop socks,” which had been replaced or laddered, were chopped up, and I clearly recall putting them in an old (empty) ice cream tub in the greenhouse. These can also be used to indoor plants.
Remember that every plant has a unique “personality” and growth pattern, thus no two monsteras will ever appear the same growing around a support. Working with each plant individually and giving it the best assistance possible will ensure its growth and success.
To begin with, you should determine whether your monstera’s pot has enough space for a support to be added without repotting. Get a trowel and dig a small hole for the support to go into if you aren’t planning to re-pot the plant (if you are using a sphagnum or coir pole). The cane supports can be easily put into the potting mixture if you’re utilizing them.
When repotting a plant, start by removing the soil from around the roots. Next, look for any dry or shriveled roots and trim them off. If your monstera is actually composed of several smaller plants, separate them and arrange them around the coir pole in the pot. This will enable the plant to naturally mould itself around the support.
My large monstera plant is shown in photographs taken from the side, demonstrating how the plant ‘leans up’ on the support, which is placed just off the center of the planter. My plant was trained from a somewhat little specimen, and as a result, it has really begun to encircle the coir pole, making it less noticeable from the front. If you add a support, keep in mind that the shape of your monstera will effect how your plant looks, however they do adjust. I have three monstera plants, and I think this one is the most attractive because the support is so completely hidden by the leaves. This was done on purpose because my plant is next to a wall and over the past few years, all of the leaves had oriented themselves toward the window. Choose a support that will allow your plant to be seen from all sides if it is the focal point of the room. In this case, I would recommend using two U-shaped canes crossed over like an X (each cane at 90 degrees from the other, crossing over in the center of the curve).
Here are some close-ups of the placement of the coir poles from when I repotted my monstera plants last summer, as well as instructions on how to wedge the pole into place using a chopstick or a dolly peg to make it stable.
If you want to learn more about the general repotting procedure, follow the blog post link I provided here.
*I recently repotted all three of these lovely plants, so I’ll put together a post in the upcoming weeks to illustrate how they currently appear.
Make sure the support is inserted deeply enough! With my plants at their current size, I set the coir pole exactly at the base of my pot and then start to re-pot, adding potting soil all around it. Maximum stability will result from this. If required, I use a knife to cut away part of the extra coir to reduce how much of the wooden central pole is covered. I added the extensible sections to the top of the pole while I’m using it, so I shouldn’t have to entirely separate the stems from the coir for a very long time.
Before leaving your monstera unattended, be aware that the support may move somewhat when you water it. The soil naturally moves when the plant is watered, therefore even though the pole is buried deep in the pot, it is inevitable that it too will move slightly. Additionally, as new leaves expand, they can occasionally slightly pull on the coir, causing it to move. It may be held much more securely with the aid of the pegs. I only occasionally correct my plant because it has a tendency to lean.
In the image below, you can observe that not all plants pleasantly cluster around a support. My tiniest monstera plant, it hasn’t really developed into itself yet. I have an idea for what you could do if your plant sprawls out and simply doesn’t seem like it will take to a pole—what that’s I intend to do with mine!
Of course, you could just let it grow naturally, but if you want to give it some support over the long haul, you could train all new stems—which are much more malleable—around the pole as they develop. Although this is a lengthier procedure, some of the older stems that may be growing at an odd angle can be clipped in pairs of leaves+ propagated as the new growth forms around the support.
The stem of my plant, which is visible above, is at such an angle that it would shatter if I attempted to move it. If your plant has this type of development, you might want to cut these stems off in pairs (they tend to root more readily this way; see photo below) and water propagate them (let the cutting grow roots in water). If you’d like your monstera to be fuller, you can replant this cutting around its stem. As an alternative, you might begin to develop a new plant from this cutting and expand your collection of monstera.
Although this monstera adansonii vine is not a monstera deliciosa, I thought I would show you how I used the U support, as you can see below.
I wrapped the stems around the cane without using any ties after untangling them. I want to grow a complete, column-shaped plant for my vanity and will train the middle stems to wrap around the structure as they become bigger. It provides this area of the space a nice sense of height.
Even though I adore my large monstera at its current size, I dug up some earlier pictures of it from 23 years ago to show you how it changed over that period. To see it expand even further, you can look over my Instagram account in the past.
The support for my large monstera is noticeably uneven in these two close-up photos of it in its current location. You can also see that I utilized a variety of ties to hold it in place. I have no plans to move this pole; it has been there for two years. Even my grandfather’s ancient wooden ruler is inside for stability. Even if it appears a little disorganized from the rear, the front view reveals that most of this is hidden.
Maintaining plants is a continuous process of learning for me, in addition to being a patience practice. The process of learning how to take care of plants involves experimentation, trial, and occasionally error. I am aware that many novice houseplant enthusiasts are reluctant to repot their plants or to consider giving their cherished monstera a support. I hope this blog will give you some confidence in how to take care of your plants, and I’m incredibly appreciative of your “support” (pun intended).
*This post contains affiliate links, which entitles me to a (very) little commission if you decide to make a purchase. I appreciate your support of my blog.
How do you get the leaves of a monstera to stand up?
Right now, Monstera Deliciosa is a stylish and well-liked houseplant, and it’s simple to understand why. The room’s broad, glossy, dark-green leaves have a tropical feel to it, and under the correct circumstances, they develop swiftly. In fact, this plant’s potential for growing too large for some homes is one of its only drawbacks. When a Monstera grows large, it often tips over or leans to one side.
How can a Monstera Deliciosa be kept from leaning over? Staking a Monstera Deliciosa with a support like a moss pole, trellis, or garden stakes is the best way to keep it growing upright. These natural climbers can be trained to climb these poles by being connected to them, and they will be supported as they do so.
Although a Monstera won’t be harmed by not growing upright, most people like them to be as straight and tall as possible for aesthetic and spatial reasons. To help you keep your Monstera looking the way you want it to, I’ll go into further depth below why why this occurs in the first place.
Can I connect the leaves of a monstera?
Bamboo stakes and coir or moss poles are the two most common types of garden stakes for indoor plants. Stakes made of bamboo are inexpensive, beautiful, and simple to handle. They are incredibly versatile and have thin diameters. Coir (coconut fiber) poles are made of hardwood bases covered in coconut husk and are noticeably thicker. Because the coconut husk is so absorbent, you may water right onto the pole and your plant will benefit from the humidity. Moss poles, which resemble coir poles but are typically covered with sphagnum moss, are another well-liked option.
Insert The Stake Into The Soil
Locate the parts of your Monstera that contain the thickest, heaviest stems and require the most support at the base (bottom). Once you’ve located these spots, dig a few little holes with a trowel and insert the stakes there. Make sure the stake is firmly planted in the ground and buried deep enough to prevent wiggle or sag. For further support, drive the stake all the way into the Monstera plant’s pot.
Utilize Support Ties
When staking plants, specific support ties are not required. You can use cloth strips, twine, or plant tie tape. Just make sure that you don’t connect the Monstera stems to the stakes too firmly so as to injure them. They ought to be firmly fastened but not choked.
About one to two inches above the point where the base of your plant meets the soil, start attaching your support ties. Your plant will be able to stretch upward more readily as it grows if it has more support at its base. Repeat the ties at several-inch intervals (about every three to eight inches, depending on the size of your Monstera).
And That’s That!
You’ll see an improvement in your Monstera’s overall form and health now that it has been staked, and its epiphytic nature will have more room to flourish. The future will be bright for you and your Monstera if you use our comprehensive care guide to keep your plant healthy over time and add more support ties or stakes when required.
How about a corner for my Monstera?
It is simple to identify Monstera Deliciosa, also known as the Mexican breadfruit, Swiss cheese plant, or hurricane plant, thanks to its glossy, extravagantly big leaves and the diversity of holes and splits that they have.
The Monstera plant is typically grown at home, but it actually comes from the tropical rainforests of Southern Mexico, where it blooms and produces a fruit that is absolutely edible and can be added to any salad.
However, Mostera Delicions will find it quite challenging to produce a flower when grown indoors. The majority of the time, Monstera Deliciosa plants are entirely green, but there is a particular kind with white flecks that looks even more lovely.
For human ingestion, this plant is poisonous in all forms (excluding the plant). Additionally, according to the ASPCA, Monstera plants are extremely hazardous to both cats and dogs.
Despite the fact that the Monstera Deliciosa plant is all around us, we can trace the origins of its household friendships to the early 1950s, when enthusiast Henri Matisse first had the notion to cultivate it indoors.
For flower lovers, monstera plants appeared to be perfect.
It only needs a large, well-lit spot to fit inside, and its strong, tropical leaves make any room appear beautiful.
Monstera Deliciosa care: Tips for future owners
The typical, indoor temperature is ideal for Monstera Deliciosa plants (68-86 degrees Fahrenheit). They also favor high humidity, regular air filtering, and indirect sunshine exposure. Of all, nature is Monstera’s natural environment, so you can grow this plant outside as well.
In a vase, how long do Monstera leaves last?
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Why should flowers receive all the praise? These vibrant, gorgeous leaves also require their very own vase and pedestal. Here are some fantastic ways to display some freshly cut greens for those of you who want to add some greenery to a room without needing a green thumb.
TOP ROW:
1. The combination of an olive branch and a vintage bottle, like in this arrangement by Natalie Bowen Designs, is traditional and suitable for virtually any setting. 2. We continue to adore the usage of test tubes and beakers as vases. To make a unique arrangement, combine a few different leaf species with contrasting textures and shapes. In different scientific glassware, common plants are displayed beautifully in My Attic. 3. Use big or small leaves, depending on how dramatic you want your display to be. With just a few of these Anthurium leaves in the shape of hearts, Sheila makes an effect without making a fuss. 4. These spherical leaves from the tropics (from Decor8) are ideal for the contemporary loft. To make a more relaxed setup, don’t be scared to put some books on a chair. 5. Pine aroma can be easily brought without using expensive candles. View additional Skonahem pictures.
BOTTOM ROW:
6. When in a more formal atmosphere, use symmetrical arrangements. Visit Home Deco 2 U for further leaf, fruit, and floral decorating ideas. 7. Position your greenery close to another green object in your house. Take a look at this photo from Luxie + Lillies, for instance, which features Snow Berry branch cuts next to a green vintage lamp and bucket chairs. 8. Use giant tropical plants that evoke lush jungles, like these philodendron selloum leaves, to add additional color to a sterile modern environment (image from CB2). 9. From the movie Thou Swell, how lovely is this enormous plant cutting in Cassandra Karnisky’s bedroom? The enormous leaves give this lovely bedroom a sculptural and serene touch. 10. Freshly cut Swiss cheese (Monstera) leaves can last one to three weeks! Large, leathery leaves from these tropical plants are slow to evaporate water and are ideal for displaying with just one or two other leaves. Is this one from Danger Garden any more ideal? You can purchase leaves from New Seasons if you don’t have a Monstera plant of your own.